On Mon, 31 May 2010 02:51:09 +0100, Barnett22
wrote:


den;799437 Wrote:
There is also wax in the gel coat, which has to be removed by
grinding, as previously mentioned, or chemically washing because of
non adherence. In your case not to worry, as I doubt if there is any
wax left. your call.
Den
48ft YF EAGLE

On May 30, 9:23*am, Bruce wrote:-
On Sun, 30 May 2010 01:52:13 +0100, Barnett22
Go tohttp://westsystem.com/ss/boat-repair/
By the way, gel coat is essentially polyester resin with a coloring
agent which is used to make a smooth finish on the outside of the
fiberglass structural layer. So, since it is just a surface finish it
should be ground completely off in the areas that you are bonding
additional glass.-
:high build primer" as it will be a much better base coat.



Oh yea, if I need to go down to raw fiberglass on the hull, I'll do the
text book repair adding 5-6 layers of biaxial and then sand and put
another couple layers on the whole hull. Hopefully that will hold it.
There will be a ton of blocking.........think Imron (single stage) will
hold on the bottom or will I need to go with a Gel-Coat? Same
properties, I believe. Thanks again


I haven't seen the boat of course, but I wonder why you want to
re-sheath the bottom? It is a hell of a lot of work if no other
reason.

You are also adding weight to the boat and will it solve the problem?
In fact what is the problem? Are the cracks from weak structure or did
the previous owner hit a log at fifty miles an hour?

Re-paint.
Gelcoat is basically polyester resin with a coloring agent mixed into
it so it adheres to the polyester built hull real well. However.... it
doesn't stick to epoxy nearly as well so the usual policy is gelcoat
over polyester and paint over epoxy.

I'm not familiar with Imron but googling on it appears to be what I
would call a two part paint - paint + activator so I think it is
probably like the two part polyurethane paint we use on boats. and
would be suitable for the bottom of a fast boat.

I am assuming that this boat is trailered and not left in the water
for long periods as you don't talk about anti-fouling paint so my
suggestion is to decide what two part polyurethane paint to use based
on cost. I would certainly advise a two part poly paint as if you use
epoxy paint it "chalks" quite heavily and doesn't look so pretty after
the first year.


Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

Thanks Bruce,

I worked on the boat all day today and removed all paint and gel-coat from the hull. Yes, it was a big job!

This is a Nitro Bass Boat, and a 1995 to boot. It is probably worth $4,000.00 when it does not have any issues with the hull. I traded for this boat locally for a very nice little 4x4 pick up truck. While inspecting the boat I found where a few places where it looked like someone had worked on the hull. I asked the gentleman about it and he said he had a little water coming in the boat and he had had this problem corrected. I asked him twice if it leaked any water now. He seemed to be a very honest guy. Anyway, the first time on the lake it took on a tremendous amount of water. Bilge pumps did keep up, but barely. To make a long story a little shorter, I got took on this one.

So, I am a cabinet builder by trade and felt if anyone could do this I could. I stripped all paint off and sanded all the gel-coat off. I am down to solid yellow fiberglass. Presently, I have found every stress crack, “v” grooved, cleaned with Acetone and filled with epoxy filler. I am in the process of repairing one larger spot by cutting out damaged area and layering with 6 layers of glass and epoxy. After these are repaired I plan to re-sheath/re-glass the bottom with biaxial cloth and epoxy.

This is a 16.5’ bass boat with a 115hp outboard, so I don’t believe it will be a problem. One other thing, it does have several places on the boat hull that seam weak or not too stiff. (like there’s nothing behind it) I am planning on buying some injection foam to try and fill in the gaps between the hull and the stock foam fillers that are sandwiched between to top cap and the hull. I plan to drill holes to shoot this into the cavity. Hopefully, this will expand enough to take some of the load.

This boat will be trailered, only in the water for 4 – 6 hours at a time.

Boy, I sure hope this works………spent some time on it already…..


Thanks so much guys for the advice and comments. I’ll have some photos up tomorrow.

Take care,

Thanks Bruce,

I worked on the boat all day today and removed all paint and gel-coat from the hull. Yes, it was a big job!

This is a Nitro Bass Boat, and a 1995 to boot. It is probably worth $4,000.00 when it does not have any issues with the hull. I traded for this boat locally for a very nice little 4x4 pick up truck. While inspecting the boat I found where a few places where it looked like someone had worked on the hull. I asked the gentleman about it and he said he had a little water coming in the boat and he had had this problem corrected. I asked him twice if it leaked any water now. He seemed to be a very honest guy. Anyway, the first time on the lake it took on a tremendous amount of water. Bilge pumps did keep up, but barely. To make a long story a little shorter, I got took on this one.

So, I am a cabinet builder by trade and felt if anyone could do this I could. I stripped all paint off and sanded all the gel-coat off. I am down to solid yellow fiberglass. Presently, I have found every stress crack, “v” grooved, cleaned with Acetone and filled with epoxy filler. I am in the process of repairing one larger spot by cutting out damaged area and layering with 6 layers of glass and epoxy. After these are repaired I plan to re-sheath/re-glass the bottom with biaxial cloth and epoxy.

This is a 16.5’ bass boat with a 115hp outboard, so I don’t believe it will be a problem. One other thing, it does have several places on the boat hull that seam weak or not too stiff. (like there’s nothing behind it) I am planning on buying some injection foam to try and fill in the gaps between the hull and the stock foam fillers that are sandwiched between to top cap and the hull. I plan to drill holes to shoot this into the cavity. Hopefully, this will expand enough to take some of the load.

This boat will be trailered, only in the water for 4 – 6 hours at a time.

Boy, I sure hope this works………spent some time on it already…..


Thanks so much guys for the advice and comments. I’ll have some photos up tomorrow.

Take care,

On Tue, 1 Jun 2010 03:23:32 +0100, Barnett22
wrote:

Much old stuff snipped


Thanks Bruce,

I worked on the boat all day today and removed all paint and gel-coat
from the hull. Yes, it was a big job!

This is a Nitro Bass Boat, and a 1995 to boot. It is probably worth
$4,000.00 when it does not have any issues with the hull. I traded for
this boat locally for a very nice little 4x4 pick up truck.

I know nothing about U.S. prices but isn't $4,000 pretty cheap value
for a 4 x 4 pickup? Or isn't it?

While
inspecting the boat I found where a few places where it looked like
someone had worked on the hull. I asked the gentleman about it and he
said he had a little water coming in the boat and he had had this
problem corrected. I asked him twice if it leaked any water now. He
seemed to be a very honest guy. Anyway, the first time on the lake it
took on a tremendous amount of water. Bilge pumps did keep up, but
barely. To make a long story a little shorter, I got took on this
one.

So, I am a cabinet builder by trade and felt if anyone could do this I
could. I stripped all paint off and sanded all the gel-coat off. I am
down to solid yellow fiberglass. Presently, I have found every stress
crack, “v” grooved, cleaned with Acetone and filled with epoxy filler.
I am in the process of repairing one larger spot by cutting out damaged
area and layering with 6 layers of glass and epoxy. After these are
repaired I plan to re-sheath/re-glass the bottom with biaxial cloth and
epoxy.

This is a 16.5’ bass boat with a 115hp outboard, so I don’t believe it
will be a problem. One other thing, it does have several places on the
boat hull that seam weak or not too stiff. (like there’s nothing behind
it) I am planning on buying some injection foam to try and fill in the
gaps between the hull and the stock foam fillers that are sandwiched
between to top cap and the hull. I plan to drill holes to shoot this
into the cavity. Hopefully, this will expand enough to take some of
the load.

This boat will be trailered, only in the water for 4 – 6 hours at a
time.

Boy, I sure hope this works………spent some time on it already…..


Thanks so much guys for the advice and comments. I’ll have some photos
up tomorrow.

Take care,

Do let us know how you get on.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

I will obviously need to wait for the slow epoxy to come from West. Had no idea it would set so fast in the warm humid air.

I'll post more as I go. This first laminate was a lesson.

On Thu, 3 Jun 2010 01:29:54 +0100, Barnett22
wrote:


'Bruce[_4_ Wrote:
;799646']On Tue, 1 Jun 2010 03:23:32 +0100, Barnett22
wrote:

Much old stuff snipped
-

Thanks Bruce,

I worked on the boat all day today and removed all paint and gel-coat
from the hull. Yes, it was a big job!

This is a Nitro Bass Boat, and a 1995 to boot. It is probably worth
$4,000.00 when it does not have any issues with the hull. I traded
for
this boat locally for a very nice little 4x4 pick up truck. -

I know nothing about U.S. prices but isn't $4,000 pretty cheap value
for a 4 x 4 pickup? Or isn't it?
-
While
inspecting the boat I found where a few places where it looked like
someone had worked on the hull. I asked the gentleman about it and he
said he had a little water coming in the boat and he had had this
problem corrected. I asked him twice if it leaked any water now. He
seemed to be a very honest guy. Anyway, the first time on the lake it
took on a tremendous amount of water. Bilge pumps did keep up, but
barely. To make a long story a little shorter, I got took on this
one.

So, I am a cabinet builder by trade and felt if anyone could do this I
could. I stripped all paint off and sanded all the gel-coat off. I
am
down to solid yellow fiberglass. Presently, I have found every stress
crack, “v” grooved, cleaned with Acetone and filled with epoxy filler.

I am in the process of repairing one larger spot by cutting out
damaged
area and layering with 6 layers of glass and epoxy. After these are
repaired I plan to re-sheath/re-glass the bottom with biaxial cloth
and
epoxy.

This is a 16.5’ bass boat with a 115hp outboard, so I don’t believe it
will be a problem. One other thing, it does have several places on
the
boat hull that seam weak or not too stiff. (like there’s nothing
behind
it) I am planning on buying some injection foam to try and fill in
the
gaps between the hull and the stock foam fillers that are sandwiched
between to top cap and the hull. I plan to drill holes to shoot this
into the cavity. Hopefully, this will expand enough to take some of
the load.

This boat will be trailered, only in the water for 4 – 6 hours at a
time.

Boy, I sure hope this works………spent some time on it already…..


Thanks so much guys for the advice and comments. I’ll have some
photos
up tomorrow.

Take care,-

Do let us know how you get on.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)



I will obviously need to wait for the slow epoxy to come from West.
Had no idea it would set so fast in the warm humid air.

I'll post more as I go. This first laminate was a lesson.


It looks all right in the pictures. Was there a problem?

I think the largest area I have successfully covered in one go,
working alone, is about 10 ft by about 4 feet but I did it in three
sections, working from one end to the other. It was the deck of the
rear "cockpit", for want of a better word, so it was a flat area and I
initially covered just the deck. Later I sanded and ran some 12 inch
"tape" around to seal the deck to the vertical structures.

A friend, who is in the business, covers quite large areas using a
team - one mixing, two or three rolling and another standing by to
help if necessary. I watched a team hand lay a 30 ft. speedboat, in a
mold, using, it must have been 15 people. the damnedest operation you
ever say :-)

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)