Bruce In Bangkok wrote:
On Fri, 2 Oct 2009 12:19:45 -0400, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 01 Oct 2009 20:21:28 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

Bruce In Bangkok wrote:
On Thu, 1 Oct 2009 22:39:02 +0200, "Steve Lusardi"
wrote:

Bruce,
In 2006 I helped install a new bridge on a super yacht in Italy. No
fasteners were allowed to show anywhere, which is actually
quite a feat, but the most interesting observation I made was the
method to install the overhead.

It was constructed of 6" wide 1/4" plywood strips tapered slightly on
the edges and on both sides square plates about 1.5 by 2.5
inches were screwed to the back side of strip with 24" spacing. These
thin sheet metal plates were offset from strip to strip by a
little over one plate width. These plates were positioned 1/2 on the
strip and 1/2 off the strip. These were installed on thin
lathing fastened overhead with screws in sequence, one side to the
other, in the following manner. The first strip had glued to
the outboard edge a strip of industrial 3M plastic "Velcro", which made
contact with a corresponding strip on the lathing strip.
The other side was then screwed to the lathe. The next strip's
protruding plates were slipped under the just installed strip
between the lathe and that strip. On the opposite edge of the second
plank, the plates were screwed to its lathe and so on across
the overhead until the last strip was installed and there, just like
the first plank, was fastened with "Velcro" on its outboard
edge. No fastener showed. The overhead strips were very secure and
easily removed for maintenance purpose, if required. Of course
these strips were first fitted, then removed, sanded smooth and
finished in a spray booth with a flat white color before final
fitting. No grain or fastener showed anywhere. It was truly exquisite.
Steve

Thanks for information. This boat is a smallish 35 ' power boat that I
am refurbishing. The hull is essentially a fiberglass shell with a
encapsulated wooden frame. In addition there is a 1/2" - 3/4"
encapsulated reinforcement around each port to stiffen the cabin sides
in that area. This results in a rather "lumpy" interior which I plan
to hide.

As the motif is workboat all lighting and much of the wiring will be
run on the surface of the interior, in conduit or wire molding, so the
idea is to line the boat with 3mm ply surfaced with veneer or formica,
depending on the area.

I can bond a tee shaped strip to the hull and mount ceiling panels by
popping them under the tee but thought why not just glue the panels
in, directly to the hull.

Another poster tells me that he has used liquid nails and it doesn't
fall off so I think I'll go with that method. If worse comes to worst
and it does fall off there is always 3M 5200 - but that is a costly
method of attaching essentially decorative panels.

Lightweight paneling like that should work quite well just glued in.

Liquid Nail needs an air supply to dry it.
Trapping large amounts may cause it to take quite a bit longer to dry.

Other than that? Go for it!
Can you expand on the "need air". I thought it was used to put up wall
paneling and such like in houses. From the instructions on the tube
they say just smear on a bunch and push it in place. Good bond in a
day, full adhesion in 48 hours (I think). $2.50 a tube, or there
about.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)
There are a lot of Liquid Nails products, Bruce. They make a tub/shower
surround material that's supposed to be much better for water exposure.

Take a look at their tech data and MSDS sheets:

http://www.klenks.com/products/info.jsp?type=msdsSheets

Actually I was using "Liquid Nails" as a generic term as I'm not sure
exactly what or where the stuff that Home Pro is selling here is. Now
that I know that the stuff is at least semi-usable I will delve deeper
into who, what, when, where and why.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)


In that case, I would highly recommend PL-1 brands.

I've used it to make fuel tanks (test only - never had the guts to fly one).
Bu etching aluminum and priming it, the adhesive reacts with the primer and
gets a really good bite. Fuel proof (for av gas, but I won't claim that for
mogas or diesel. Too many solvents mixed in)

On Fri, 02 Oct 2009 21:04:31 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

Bruce In Bangkok wrote:
On Fri, 2 Oct 2009 12:19:45 -0400, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 01 Oct 2009 20:21:28 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

Bruce In Bangkok wrote:
On Thu, 1 Oct 2009 22:39:02 +0200, "Steve Lusardi"
wrote:

Bruce,
In 2006 I helped install a new bridge on a super yacht in Italy. No
fasteners were allowed to show anywhere, which is actually
quite a feat, but the most interesting observation I made was the
method to install the overhead.

It was constructed of 6" wide 1/4" plywood strips tapered slightly on
the edges and on both sides square plates about 1.5 by 2.5
inches were screwed to the back side of strip with 24" spacing. These
thin sheet metal plates were offset from strip to strip by a
little over one plate width. These plates were positioned 1/2 on the
strip and 1/2 off the strip. These were installed on thin
lathing fastened overhead with screws in sequence, one side to the
other, in the following manner. The first strip had glued to
the outboard edge a strip of industrial 3M plastic "Velcro", which made
contact with a corresponding strip on the lathing strip.
The other side was then screwed to the lathe. The next strip's
protruding plates were slipped under the just installed strip
between the lathe and that strip. On the opposite edge of the second
plank, the plates were screwed to its lathe and so on across
the overhead until the last strip was installed and there, just like
the first plank, was fastened with "Velcro" on its outboard
edge. No fastener showed. The overhead strips were very secure and
easily removed for maintenance purpose, if required. Of course
these strips were first fitted, then removed, sanded smooth and
finished in a spray booth with a flat white color before final
fitting. No grain or fastener showed anywhere. It was truly exquisite.
Steve

Thanks for information. This boat is a smallish 35 ' power boat that I
am refurbishing. The hull is essentially a fiberglass shell with a
encapsulated wooden frame. In addition there is a 1/2" - 3/4"
encapsulated reinforcement around each port to stiffen the cabin sides
in that area. This results in a rather "lumpy" interior which I plan
to hide.

As the motif is workboat all lighting and much of the wiring will be
run on the surface of the interior, in conduit or wire molding, so the
idea is to line the boat with 3mm ply surfaced with veneer or formica,
depending on the area.

I can bond a tee shaped strip to the hull and mount ceiling panels by
popping them under the tee but thought why not just glue the panels
in, directly to the hull.

Another poster tells me that he has used liquid nails and it doesn't
fall off so I think I'll go with that method. If worse comes to worst
and it does fall off there is always 3M 5200 - but that is a costly
method of attaching essentially decorative panels.

Lightweight paneling like that should work quite well just glued in.

Liquid Nail needs an air supply to dry it.
Trapping large amounts may cause it to take quite a bit longer to dry.

Other than that? Go for it!
Can you expand on the "need air". I thought it was used to put up wall
paneling and such like in houses. From the instructions on the tube
they say just smear on a bunch and push it in place. Good bond in a
day, full adhesion in 48 hours (I think). $2.50 a tube, or there
about.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)
There are a lot of Liquid Nails products, Bruce. They make a tub/shower
surround material that's supposed to be much better for water exposure.

Take a look at their tech data and MSDS sheets:

http://www.klenks.com/products/info.jsp?type=msdsSheets

Actually I was using "Liquid Nails" as a generic term as I'm not sure
exactly what or where the stuff that Home Pro is selling here is. Now
that I know that the stuff is at least semi-usable I will delve deeper
into who, what, when, where and why.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)


In that case, I would highly recommend PL-1 brands.

I've used it to make fuel tanks (test only - never had the guts to fly one).
Bu etching aluminum and priming it, the adhesive reacts with the primer and
gets a really good bite. Fuel proof (for av gas, but I won't claim that for
mogas or diesel. Too many solvents mixed in)

"PL-1" brands? Never heard of it, but tell me more.


Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

Bruce In Bangkok wrote:
On Fri, 02 Oct 2009 21:04:31 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:


In that case, I would highly recommend PL-1 brands.

I've used it to make fuel tanks (test only - never had the guts to fly one).
Bu etching aluminum and priming it, the adhesive reacts with the primer and
gets a really good bite. Fuel proof (for av gas, but I won't claim that for
mogas or diesel. Too many solvents mixed in)

"PL-1" brands? Never heard of it, but tell me more.


Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)


What? You don't know PL-1?
That was the second language I ever learned - right after Assembly.
WAY better than C (imnsho)!



Ok, how about PL brand...

http://www.stickwithpl.com/ProductMain.aspx

http://www.stickwithpl.com/

On Sat, 03 Oct 2009 21:13:51 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

Bruce In Bangkok wrote:
On Fri, 02 Oct 2009 21:04:31 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:


In that case, I would highly recommend PL-1 brands.

I've used it to make fuel tanks (test only - never had the guts to fly one).
Bu etching aluminum and priming it, the adhesive reacts with the primer and
gets a really good bite. Fuel proof (for av gas, but I won't claim that for
mogas or diesel. Too many solvents mixed in)

"PL-1" brands? Never heard of it, but tell me more.


Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)


What? You don't know PL-1?
That was the second language I ever learned - right after Assembly.
WAY better than C (imnsho)!

You shouldn't brag about an old, old, IBM language. If you want to
brag tell us about how you learned a new language at the feet of
Admiral Hopper :-

Ok, how about PL brand...

http://www.stickwithpl.com/ProductMain.aspx

http://www.stickwithpl.com/

Got it. thanks.
Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

Bruce In Bangkok wrote:
On Sat, 03 Oct 2009 21:13:51 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

Bruce In Bangkok wrote:
On Fri, 02 Oct 2009 21:04:31 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

In that case, I would highly recommend PL-1 brands.

I've used it to make fuel tanks (test only - never had the guts to fly one).
Bu etching aluminum and priming it, the adhesive reacts with the primer and
gets a really good bite. Fuel proof (for av gas, but I won't claim that for
mogas or diesel. Too many solvents mixed in)
"PL-1" brands? Never heard of it, but tell me more.


Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

What? You don't know PL-1?
That was the second language I ever learned - right after Assembly.
WAY better than C (imnsho)!

You shouldn't brag about an old, old, IBM language. If you want to
brag tell us about how you learned a new language at the feet of
Admiral Hopper :-


Oddly enough, I've never had the pleasure of working in Ada.
And Gracie would have been an interesting teacher, I'm sure.

But one works in in whatever language the boss man wants.

Heck, these days its all object oriented bloatware.
No fun allowed!


Ok, how about PL brand...

http://www.stickwithpl.com/ProductMain.aspx

http://www.stickwithpl.com/

Got it. thanks.
Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

On Sun, 04 Oct 2009 12:15:58 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

Bruce In Bangkok wrote:
On Sat, 03 Oct 2009 21:13:51 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

Bruce In Bangkok wrote:
On Fri, 02 Oct 2009 21:04:31 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

In that case, I would highly recommend PL-1 brands.

I've used it to make fuel tanks (test only - never had the guts to fly one).
Bu etching aluminum and priming it, the adhesive reacts with the primer and
gets a really good bite. Fuel proof (for av gas, but I won't claim that for
mogas or diesel. Too many solvents mixed in)
"PL-1" brands? Never heard of it, but tell me more.


Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

What? You don't know PL-1?
That was the second language I ever learned - right after Assembly.
WAY better than C (imnsho)!

You shouldn't brag about an old, old, IBM language. If you want to
brag tell us about how you learned a new language at the feet of
Admiral Hopper :-


Oddly enough, I've never had the pleasure of working in Ada.
And Gracie would have been an interesting teacher, I'm sure.

But one works in in whatever language the boss man wants.

Heck, these days its all object oriented bloatware.
No fun allowed!

Funny, you know. Way back then, people used to brag about how they
optimized their assembler language routines and were even able to use
the same memory block for several different functions..... now even
C++ isn't big enough :-)

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote:

I can bond a tee shaped strip to the hull and mount ceiling panels
by
popping them under the tee but thought why not just glue the panels
in, directly to the hull.

Who ever has to get behind those panels to do something in the future
will thank you for your good judgement if you use the bonded tee
aproach.G

Velco and 6"-8" wide ply strips is another approach.

Lew

On Sat, 3 Oct 2009 22:21:07 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:


"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote:

I can bond a tee shaped strip to the hull and mount ceiling panels
by
popping them under the tee but thought why not just glue the panels
in, directly to the hull.

Who ever has to get behind those panels to do something in the future
will thank you for your good judgement if you use the bonded tee
aproach.G

Velco and 6"-8" wide ply strips is another approach.

Lew

There is nothing behind the ceiling panels. They are simply panels
attached to the inside of the hull and cabin structure to cover up the
raw fiberglass. All electrical and liquids will either be run on the
surface or through open spaces (engine room, bilges).

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote:

There is nothing behind the ceiling panels. They are simply panels
attached to the inside of the hull and cabin structure to cover up
the
raw fiberglass. All electrical and liquids will either be run on the
surface or through open spaces (engine room, bilges).

And if for some unforseeen reason you need to get to the
glass????????????????????????

Lew

On Sun, 4 Oct 2009 13:12:56 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:


"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote:

There is nothing behind the ceiling panels. They are simply panels
attached to the inside of the hull and cabin structure to cover up
the
raw fiberglass. All electrical and liquids will either be run on the
surface or through open spaces (engine room, bilges).

And if for some unforseeen reason you need to get to the
glass????????????????????????

Lew

I suspect that if any damage is extensive enough that I need to make
repairs to the actual structure of the boat I can do it from the
outside, or simply rip the interior panels off. You are talking about
some fairly extensive work being required here.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)