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Liquid Nails
Has anyone tried this construction adhesive - liquid nails, I believe is one brand, for installing the ceiling inside a boat? Generally the ceiling is just 1/8" or 1/4" plywood with some sort of decorative covering that is used for a liner inside the boat. Covers imperfections in the hull, screws, wiring and all the other stuff you don't want to look at. On some boats it is simply shoved in behind molding or put on with screws directly into the fiberglass. I am considering gluing the ceiling in with something and came across this stuff in the hardware shop, apparently used to install some sorts of paneling in houses. Any comments, pro or con? Cheers, Bruce (bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom) |
Liquid Nails
"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message ... Has anyone tried this construction adhesive - liquid nails, I believe is one brand, for installing the ceiling inside a boat? Generally the ceiling is just 1/8" or 1/4" plywood with some sort of decorative covering that is used for a liner inside the boat. Covers imperfections in the hull, screws, wiring and all the other stuff you don't want to look at. On some boats it is simply shoved in behind molding or put on with screws directly into the fiberglass. I am considering gluing the ceiling in with something and came across this stuff in the hardware shop, apparently used to install some sorts of paneling in houses. Any comments, pro or con? Cheers, Bruce (bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom) Bruce, I've used it to glue solid wood to painted stucco (house numbers, military specialty insignia) and the letters of our store name made out of thin plywood to painted stucco. The wood to painted stucco have survived multiple hurricanes and years of rains. My wife uses it anywhere duct tape "just won't do". You'd need to brace the ceilings in place while the glue dries and as long the surfaces are clean and dry it should work. |
Liquid Nails
Bruce,
In 2006 I helped install a new bridge on a super yacht in Italy. No fasteners were allowed to show anywhere, which is actually quite a feat, but the most interesting observation I made was the method to install the overhead. It was constructed of 6" wide 1/4" plywood strips tapered slightly on the edges and on both sides square plates about 1.5 by 2.5 inches were screwed to the back side of strip with 24" spacing. These thin sheet metal plates were offset from strip to strip by a little over one plate width. These plates were positioned 1/2 on the strip and 1/2 off the strip. These were installed on thin lathing fastened overhead with screws in sequence, one side to the other, in the following manner. The first strip had glued to the outboard edge a strip of industrial 3M plastic "Velcro", which made contact with a corresponding strip on the lathing strip. The other side was then screwed to the lathe. The next strip's protruding plates were slipped under the just installed strip between the lathe and that strip. On the opposite edge of the second plank, the plates were screwed to its lathe and so on across the overhead until the last strip was installed and there, just like the first plank, was fastened with "Velcro" on its outboard edge. No fastener showed. The overhead strips were very secure and easily removed for maintenance purpose, if required. Of course these strips were first fitted, then removed, sanded smooth and finished in a spray booth with a flat white color before final fitting. No grain or fastener showed anywhere. It was truly exquisite. Steve "Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message ... Has anyone tried this construction adhesive - liquid nails, I believe is one brand, for installing the ceiling inside a boat? Generally the ceiling is just 1/8" or 1/4" plywood with some sort of decorative covering that is used for a liner inside the boat. Covers imperfections in the hull, screws, wiring and all the other stuff you don't want to look at. On some boats it is simply shoved in behind molding or put on with screws directly into the fiberglass. I am considering gluing the ceiling in with something and came across this stuff in the hardware shop, apparently used to install some sorts of paneling in houses. Any comments, pro or con? Cheers, Bruce (bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom) |
Liquid Nails
On Thu, 1 Oct 2009 09:54:39 -0400, "mmc" wrote:
"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message .. . Has anyone tried this construction adhesive - liquid nails, I believe is one brand, for installing the ceiling inside a boat? Generally the ceiling is just 1/8" or 1/4" plywood with some sort of decorative covering that is used for a liner inside the boat. Covers imperfections in the hull, screws, wiring and all the other stuff you don't want to look at. On some boats it is simply shoved in behind molding or put on with screws directly into the fiberglass. I am considering gluing the ceiling in with something and came across this stuff in the hardware shop, apparently used to install some sorts of paneling in houses. Any comments, pro or con? Cheers, Bruce (bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom) Bruce, I've used it to glue solid wood to painted stucco (house numbers, military specialty insignia) and the letters of our store name made out of thin plywood to painted stucco. The wood to painted stucco have survived multiple hurricanes and years of rains. My wife uses it anywhere duct tape "just won't do". You'd need to brace the ceilings in place while the glue dries and as long the surfaces are clean and dry it should work. Thanks for info. While, at the moment, I do not believe that I should have to remove the ceiling, if I should how hard is it to remove something that is attached using liquid nails? I assume that it would be similar to something attached with Sikaflex or 3M 5200; difficult, but possible. Cheers, Bruce (bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom) |
Liquid Nails
On Thu, 1 Oct 2009 22:39:02 +0200, "Steve Lusardi"
wrote: Bruce, In 2006 I helped install a new bridge on a super yacht in Italy. No fasteners were allowed to show anywhere, which is actually quite a feat, but the most interesting observation I made was the method to install the overhead. It was constructed of 6" wide 1/4" plywood strips tapered slightly on the edges and on both sides square plates about 1.5 by 2.5 inches were screwed to the back side of strip with 24" spacing. These thin sheet metal plates were offset from strip to strip by a little over one plate width. These plates were positioned 1/2 on the strip and 1/2 off the strip. These were installed on thin lathing fastened overhead with screws in sequence, one side to the other, in the following manner. The first strip had glued to the outboard edge a strip of industrial 3M plastic "Velcro", which made contact with a corresponding strip on the lathing strip. The other side was then screwed to the lathe. The next strip's protruding plates were slipped under the just installed strip between the lathe and that strip. On the opposite edge of the second plank, the plates were screwed to its lathe and so on across the overhead until the last strip was installed and there, just like the first plank, was fastened with "Velcro" on its outboard edge. No fastener showed. The overhead strips were very secure and easily removed for maintenance purpose, if required. Of course these strips were first fitted, then removed, sanded smooth and finished in a spray booth with a flat white color before final fitting. No grain or fastener showed anywhere. It was truly exquisite. Steve Thanks for information. This boat is a smallish 35 ' power boat that I am refurbishing. The hull is essentially a fiberglass shell with a encapsulated wooden frame. In addition there is a 1/2" - 3/4" encapsulated reinforcement around each port to stiffen the cabin sides in that area. This results in a rather "lumpy" interior which I plan to hide. As the motif is workboat all lighting and much of the wiring will be run on the surface of the interior, in conduit or wire molding, so the idea is to line the boat with 3mm ply surfaced with veneer or formica, depending on the area. I can bond a tee shaped strip to the hull and mount ceiling panels by popping them under the tee but thought why not just glue the panels in, directly to the hull. Another poster tells me that he has used liquid nails and it doesn't fall off so I think I'll go with that method. If worse comes to worst and it does fall off there is always 3M 5200 - but that is a costly method of attaching essentially decorative panels. "Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message ... Has anyone tried this construction adhesive - liquid nails, I believe is one brand, for installing the ceiling inside a boat? Generally the ceiling is just 1/8" or 1/4" plywood with some sort of decorative covering that is used for a liner inside the boat. Covers imperfections in the hull, screws, wiring and all the other stuff you don't want to look at. On some boats it is simply shoved in behind molding or put on with screws directly into the fiberglass. I am considering gluing the ceiling in with something and came across this stuff in the hardware shop, apparently used to install some sorts of paneling in houses. Any comments, pro or con? Cheers, Bruce (bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom) Cheers, Bruce (bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom) |
Liquid Nails
Bruce In Bangkok wrote:
On Thu, 1 Oct 2009 09:54:39 -0400, "mmc" wrote: "Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message ... Has anyone tried this construction adhesive - liquid nails, I believe is one brand, for installing the ceiling inside a boat? Generally the ceiling is just 1/8" or 1/4" plywood with some sort of decorative covering that is used for a liner inside the boat. Covers imperfections in the hull, screws, wiring and all the other stuff you don't want to look at. On some boats it is simply shoved in behind molding or put on with screws directly into the fiberglass. I am considering gluing the ceiling in with something and came across this stuff in the hardware shop, apparently used to install some sorts of paneling in houses. Any comments, pro or con? Cheers, Bruce (bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom) Bruce, I've used it to glue solid wood to painted stucco (house numbers, military specialty insignia) and the letters of our store name made out of thin plywood to painted stucco. The wood to painted stucco have survived multiple hurricanes and years of rains. My wife uses it anywhere duct tape "just won't do". You'd need to brace the ceilings in place while the glue dries and as long the surfaces are clean and dry it should work. Thanks for info. While, at the moment, I do not believe that I should have to remove the ceiling, if I should how hard is it to remove something that is attached using liquid nails? I assume that it would be similar to something attached with Sikaflex or 3M 5200; difficult, but possible. Cheers, Bruce (bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom) The stuff dried out pretty hard, and sticks tenaciously. It's a brute force solution - and as such works well if you used enough of it. (That's a hint) If not, it will probably work loose in time. To my knowledge, there is no "debonder" for Liquid Nail". So removing it could be difficult. |
Liquid Nails
Bruce In Bangkok wrote:
On Thu, 1 Oct 2009 22:39:02 +0200, "Steve Lusardi" wrote: Bruce, In 2006 I helped install a new bridge on a super yacht in Italy. No fasteners were allowed to show anywhere, which is actually quite a feat, but the most interesting observation I made was the method to install the overhead. It was constructed of 6" wide 1/4" plywood strips tapered slightly on the edges and on both sides square plates about 1.5 by 2.5 inches were screwed to the back side of strip with 24" spacing. These thin sheet metal plates were offset from strip to strip by a little over one plate width. These plates were positioned 1/2 on the strip and 1/2 off the strip. These were installed on thin lathing fastened overhead with screws in sequence, one side to the other, in the following manner. The first strip had glued to the outboard edge a strip of industrial 3M plastic "Velcro", which made contact with a corresponding strip on the lathing strip. The other side was then screwed to the lathe. The next strip's protruding plates were slipped under the just installed strip between the lathe and that strip. On the opposite edge of the second plank, the plates were screwed to its lathe and so on across the overhead until the last strip was installed and there, just like the first plank, was fastened with "Velcro" on its outboard edge. No fastener showed. The overhead strips were very secure and easily removed for maintenance purpose, if required. Of course these strips were first fitted, then removed, sanded smooth and finished in a spray booth with a flat white color before final fitting. No grain or fastener showed anywhere. It was truly exquisite. Steve Thanks for information. This boat is a smallish 35 ' power boat that I am refurbishing. The hull is essentially a fiberglass shell with a encapsulated wooden frame. In addition there is a 1/2" - 3/4" encapsulated reinforcement around each port to stiffen the cabin sides in that area. This results in a rather "lumpy" interior which I plan to hide. As the motif is workboat all lighting and much of the wiring will be run on the surface of the interior, in conduit or wire molding, so the idea is to line the boat with 3mm ply surfaced with veneer or formica, depending on the area. I can bond a tee shaped strip to the hull and mount ceiling panels by popping them under the tee but thought why not just glue the panels in, directly to the hull. Another poster tells me that he has used liquid nails and it doesn't fall off so I think I'll go with that method. If worse comes to worst and it does fall off there is always 3M 5200 - but that is a costly method of attaching essentially decorative panels. Lightweight paneling like that should work quite well just glued in. Liquid Nail needs an air supply to dry it. Trapping large amounts may cause it to take quite a bit longer to dry. Other than that? Go for it! |
Liquid Nails
On Oct 1, 9:21*pm, cavelamb wrote:
Bruce In Bangkok wrote: On Thu, 1 Oct 2009 22:39:02 +0200, "Steve Lusardi" wrote: Bruce, In 2006 I helped install a new bridge on a super yacht in Italy. No fasteners were allowed to show anywhere, which is actually quite a feat, but the most interesting observation I made was the method to install the overhead. It was constructed of 6" wide 1/4" plywood strips tapered slightly on the edges and on both *sides square plates about 1.5 by 2.5 inches were screwed to the back side of strip with 24" spacing. These thin sheet metal plates were offset from strip to strip by a little over one plate width. These plates were positioned 1/2 on the strip and 1/2 off the strip. These were installed on thin lathing fastened overhead with screws in sequence, one side to the other, in the following manner. The first strip had glued to the outboard edge a strip of industrial 3M plastic "Velcro", which made contact with a corresponding strip on the lathing strip. The other side was then screwed to the lathe. The next strip's protruding plates were slipped under the just installed strip between the lathe and that strip. On the opposite edge of the second plank, the plates were screwed to its lathe and so on across the overhead until the last strip was installed and there, just like the first plank, was fastened with "Velcro" on its outboard edge. No fastener showed. The overhead strips were very secure and easily removed for maintenance purpose, if required. Of course these strips were first fitted, then removed, sanded smooth and finished in a spray booth with a flat white color before final fitting. No grain or fastener showed anywhere. It was truly exquisite. Steve Thanks for information. This boat is a smallish 35 ' power boat that I am refurbishing. The hull is essentially a fiberglass shell with a encapsulated wooden frame. In addition there is a 1/2" - 3/4" encapsulated reinforcement around each port to stiffen the cabin sides in that area. This results in a rather "lumpy" interior which I plan to hide. As the motif is workboat all lighting and much of the wiring will be run on the surface of the interior, in conduit or wire molding, so the idea is to line the boat with 3mm ply surfaced with veneer or formica, depending on the area. I can bond a tee shaped strip to the hull and mount ceiling panels by popping them under the tee but thought why not just glue the panels in, directly to the hull. Another poster tells me that he has used liquid nails and it doesn't fall off so I think I'll go with that method. If worse comes to worst and it does fall off there is always 3M 5200 - but that is a costly method of attaching essentially decorative panels. Lightweight paneling like that should work quite well just glued in. Liquid Nail needs an air supply to dry it. Trapping large amounts may cause it to take quite a bit longer to dry. Other than that? *Go for it! I used liquid nails to hold the sheet material on the ceiling of my 28' sailboat, it worked well. It is not nearly as tenacious as 5200 or Sikaflex but is cheaper. |
Liquid Nails
On Thu, 01 Oct 2009 20:21:28 -0500, cavelamb
wrote: Bruce In Bangkok wrote: On Thu, 1 Oct 2009 22:39:02 +0200, "Steve Lusardi" wrote: Bruce, In 2006 I helped install a new bridge on a super yacht in Italy. No fasteners were allowed to show anywhere, which is actually quite a feat, but the most interesting observation I made was the method to install the overhead. It was constructed of 6" wide 1/4" plywood strips tapered slightly on the edges and on both sides square plates about 1.5 by 2.5 inches were screwed to the back side of strip with 24" spacing. These thin sheet metal plates were offset from strip to strip by a little over one plate width. These plates were positioned 1/2 on the strip and 1/2 off the strip. These were installed on thin lathing fastened overhead with screws in sequence, one side to the other, in the following manner. The first strip had glued to the outboard edge a strip of industrial 3M plastic "Velcro", which made contact with a corresponding strip on the lathing strip. The other side was then screwed to the lathe. The next strip's protruding plates were slipped under the just installed strip between the lathe and that strip. On the opposite edge of the second plank, the plates were screwed to its lathe and so on across the overhead until the last strip was installed and there, just like the first plank, was fastened with "Velcro" on its outboard edge. No fastener showed. The overhead strips were very secure and easily removed for maintenance purpose, if required. Of course these strips were first fitted, then removed, sanded smooth and finished in a spray booth with a flat white color before final fitting. No grain or fastener showed anywhere. It was truly exquisite. Steve Thanks for information. This boat is a smallish 35 ' power boat that I am refurbishing. The hull is essentially a fiberglass shell with a encapsulated wooden frame. In addition there is a 1/2" - 3/4" encapsulated reinforcement around each port to stiffen the cabin sides in that area. This results in a rather "lumpy" interior which I plan to hide. As the motif is workboat all lighting and much of the wiring will be run on the surface of the interior, in conduit or wire molding, so the idea is to line the boat with 3mm ply surfaced with veneer or formica, depending on the area. I can bond a tee shaped strip to the hull and mount ceiling panels by popping them under the tee but thought why not just glue the panels in, directly to the hull. Another poster tells me that he has used liquid nails and it doesn't fall off so I think I'll go with that method. If worse comes to worst and it does fall off there is always 3M 5200 - but that is a costly method of attaching essentially decorative panels. Lightweight paneling like that should work quite well just glued in. Liquid Nail needs an air supply to dry it. Trapping large amounts may cause it to take quite a bit longer to dry. Other than that? Go for it! Can you expand on the "need air". I thought it was used to put up wall paneling and such like in houses. From the instructions on the tube they say just smear on a bunch and push it in place. Good bond in a day, full adhesion in 48 hours (I think). $2.50 a tube, or there about. Cheers, Bruce (bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom) |
Liquid Nails
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