Bruce,
In 2006 I helped install a new bridge on a super yacht in Italy. No fasteners were allowed to show anywhere, which is actually
quite a feat, but the most interesting observation I made was the method to install the overhead.

It was constructed of 6" wide 1/4" plywood strips tapered slightly on the edges and on both sides square plates about 1.5 by 2.5
inches were screwed to the back side of strip with 24" spacing. These thin sheet metal plates were offset from strip to strip by a
little over one plate width. These plates were positioned 1/2 on the strip and 1/2 off the strip. These were installed on thin
lathing fastened overhead with screws in sequence, one side to the other, in the following manner. The first strip had glued to
the outboard edge a strip of industrial 3M plastic "Velcro", which made contact with a corresponding strip on the lathing strip.
The other side was then screwed to the lathe. The next strip's protruding plates were slipped under the just installed strip
between the lathe and that strip. On the opposite edge of the second plank, the plates were screwed to its lathe and so on across
the overhead until the last strip was installed and there, just like the first plank, was fastened with "Velcro" on its outboard
edge. No fastener showed. The overhead strips were very secure and easily removed for maintenance purpose, if required. Of course
these strips were first fitted, then removed, sanded smooth and finished in a spray booth with a flat white color before final
fitting. No grain or fastener showed anywhere. It was truly exquisite.
Steve

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message ...

Has anyone tried this construction adhesive - liquid nails, I believe
is one brand, for installing the ceiling inside a boat?

Generally the ceiling is just 1/8" or 1/4" plywood with some sort of
decorative covering that is used for a liner inside the boat. Covers
imperfections in the hull, screws, wiring and all the other stuff you
don't want to look at. On some boats it is simply shoved in behind
molding or put on with screws directly into the fiberglass.

I am considering gluing the ceiling in with something and came across
this stuff in the hardware shop, apparently used to install some sorts
of paneling in houses.

Any comments, pro or con?

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

On Thu, 1 Oct 2009 22:39:02 +0200, "Steve Lusardi"
wrote:

Bruce,
In 2006 I helped install a new bridge on a super yacht in Italy. No fasteners were allowed to show anywhere, which is actually
quite a feat, but the most interesting observation I made was the method to install the overhead.

It was constructed of 6" wide 1/4" plywood strips tapered slightly on the edges and on both sides square plates about 1.5 by 2.5
inches were screwed to the back side of strip with 24" spacing. These thin sheet metal plates were offset from strip to strip by a
little over one plate width. These plates were positioned 1/2 on the strip and 1/2 off the strip. These were installed on thin
lathing fastened overhead with screws in sequence, one side to the other, in the following manner. The first strip had glued to
the outboard edge a strip of industrial 3M plastic "Velcro", which made contact with a corresponding strip on the lathing strip.
The other side was then screwed to the lathe. The next strip's protruding plates were slipped under the just installed strip
between the lathe and that strip. On the opposite edge of the second plank, the plates were screwed to its lathe and so on across
the overhead until the last strip was installed and there, just like the first plank, was fastened with "Velcro" on its outboard
edge. No fastener showed. The overhead strips were very secure and easily removed for maintenance purpose, if required. Of course
these strips were first fitted, then removed, sanded smooth and finished in a spray booth with a flat white color before final
fitting. No grain or fastener showed anywhere. It was truly exquisite.
Steve


Thanks for information. This boat is a smallish 35 ' power boat that I
am refurbishing. The hull is essentially a fiberglass shell with a
encapsulated wooden frame. In addition there is a 1/2" - 3/4"
encapsulated reinforcement around each port to stiffen the cabin sides
in that area. This results in a rather "lumpy" interior which I plan
to hide.

As the motif is workboat all lighting and much of the wiring will be
run on the surface of the interior, in conduit or wire molding, so the
idea is to line the boat with 3mm ply surfaced with veneer or formica,
depending on the area.

I can bond a tee shaped strip to the hull and mount ceiling panels by
popping them under the tee but thought why not just glue the panels
in, directly to the hull.

Another poster tells me that he has used liquid nails and it doesn't
fall off so I think I'll go with that method. If worse comes to worst
and it does fall off there is always 3M 5200 - but that is a costly
method of attaching essentially decorative panels.


"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message ...

Has anyone tried this construction adhesive - liquid nails, I believe
is one brand, for installing the ceiling inside a boat?

Generally the ceiling is just 1/8" or 1/4" plywood with some sort of
decorative covering that is used for a liner inside the boat. Covers
imperfections in the hull, screws, wiring and all the other stuff you
don't want to look at. On some boats it is simply shoved in behind
molding or put on with screws directly into the fiberglass.

I am considering gluing the ceiling in with something and came across
this stuff in the hardware shop, apparently used to install some sorts
of paneling in houses.

Any comments, pro or con?

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)
Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

Bruce In Bangkok wrote:
On Thu, 1 Oct 2009 22:39:02 +0200, "Steve Lusardi"
wrote:

Bruce,
In 2006 I helped install a new bridge on a super yacht in Italy. No fasteners were allowed to show anywhere, which is actually
quite a feat, but the most interesting observation I made was the method to install the overhead.

It was constructed of 6" wide 1/4" plywood strips tapered slightly on the edges and on both sides square plates about 1.5 by 2.5
inches were screwed to the back side of strip with 24" spacing. These thin sheet metal plates were offset from strip to strip by a
little over one plate width. These plates were positioned 1/2 on the strip and 1/2 off the strip. These were installed on thin
lathing fastened overhead with screws in sequence, one side to the other, in the following manner. The first strip had glued to
the outboard edge a strip of industrial 3M plastic "Velcro", which made contact with a corresponding strip on the lathing strip.
The other side was then screwed to the lathe. The next strip's protruding plates were slipped under the just installed strip
between the lathe and that strip. On the opposite edge of the second plank, the plates were screwed to its lathe and so on across
the overhead until the last strip was installed and there, just like the first plank, was fastened with "Velcro" on its outboard
edge. No fastener showed. The overhead strips were very secure and easily removed for maintenance purpose, if required. Of course
these strips were first fitted, then removed, sanded smooth and finished in a spray booth with a flat white color before final
fitting. No grain or fastener showed anywhere. It was truly exquisite.
Steve


Thanks for information. This boat is a smallish 35 ' power boat that I
am refurbishing. The hull is essentially a fiberglass shell with a
encapsulated wooden frame. In addition there is a 1/2" - 3/4"
encapsulated reinforcement around each port to stiffen the cabin sides
in that area. This results in a rather "lumpy" interior which I plan
to hide.

As the motif is workboat all lighting and much of the wiring will be
run on the surface of the interior, in conduit or wire molding, so the
idea is to line the boat with 3mm ply surfaced with veneer or formica,
depending on the area.

I can bond a tee shaped strip to the hull and mount ceiling panels by
popping them under the tee but thought why not just glue the panels
in, directly to the hull.

Another poster tells me that he has used liquid nails and it doesn't
fall off so I think I'll go with that method. If worse comes to worst
and it does fall off there is always 3M 5200 - but that is a costly
method of attaching essentially decorative panels.


Lightweight paneling like that should work quite well just glued in.

Liquid Nail needs an air supply to dry it.
Trapping large amounts may cause it to take quite a bit longer to dry.

Other than that? Go for it!

On Oct 1, 9:21*pm, cavelamb wrote:
Bruce In Bangkok wrote:
On Thu, 1 Oct 2009 22:39:02 +0200, "Steve Lusardi"
wrote:

Bruce,
In 2006 I helped install a new bridge on a super yacht in Italy. No fasteners were allowed to show anywhere, which is actually
quite a feat, but the most interesting observation I made was the method to install the overhead.

It was constructed of 6" wide 1/4" plywood strips tapered slightly on the edges and on both *sides square plates about 1.5 by 2.5
inches were screwed to the back side of strip with 24" spacing. These thin sheet metal plates were offset from strip to strip by a
little over one plate width. These plates were positioned 1/2 on the strip and 1/2 off the strip. These were installed on thin
lathing fastened overhead with screws in sequence, one side to the other, in the following manner. The first strip had glued to
the outboard edge a strip of industrial 3M plastic "Velcro", which made contact with a corresponding strip on the lathing strip.
The other side was then screwed to the lathe. The next strip's protruding plates were slipped under the just installed strip
between the lathe and that strip. On the opposite edge of the second plank, the plates were screwed to its lathe and so on across
the overhead until the last strip was installed and there, just like the first plank, was fastened with "Velcro" on its outboard
edge. No fastener showed. The overhead strips were very secure and easily removed for maintenance purpose, if required. Of course
these strips were first fitted, then removed, sanded smooth and finished in a spray booth with a flat white color before final
fitting. No grain or fastener showed anywhere. It was truly exquisite.
Steve

Thanks for information. This boat is a smallish 35 ' power boat that I
am refurbishing. The hull is essentially a fiberglass shell with a
encapsulated wooden frame. In addition there is a 1/2" - 3/4"
encapsulated reinforcement around each port to stiffen the cabin sides
in that area. This results in a rather "lumpy" interior which I plan
to hide.

As the motif is workboat all lighting and much of the wiring will be
run on the surface of the interior, in conduit or wire molding, so the
idea is to line the boat with 3mm ply surfaced with veneer or formica,
depending on the area.

I can bond a tee shaped strip to the hull and mount ceiling panels by
popping them under the tee but thought why not just glue the panels
in, directly to the hull.

Another poster tells me that he has used liquid nails and it doesn't
fall off so I think I'll go with that method. If worse comes to worst
and it does fall off there is always 3M 5200 - but that is a costly
method of attaching essentially decorative panels.

Lightweight paneling like that should work quite well just glued in.

Liquid Nail needs an air supply to dry it.
Trapping large amounts may cause it to take quite a bit longer to dry.

Other than that? *Go for it!

I used liquid nails to hold the sheet material on the ceiling of my
28' sailboat, it worked well. It is not nearly as tenacious as 5200
or Sikaflex but is cheaper.

On Thu, 01 Oct 2009 20:21:28 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

Bruce In Bangkok wrote:
On Thu, 1 Oct 2009 22:39:02 +0200, "Steve Lusardi"
wrote:

Bruce,
In 2006 I helped install a new bridge on a super yacht in Italy. No fasteners were allowed to show anywhere, which is actually
quite a feat, but the most interesting observation I made was the method to install the overhead.

It was constructed of 6" wide 1/4" plywood strips tapered slightly on the edges and on both sides square plates about 1.5 by 2.5
inches were screwed to the back side of strip with 24" spacing. These thin sheet metal plates were offset from strip to strip by a
little over one plate width. These plates were positioned 1/2 on the strip and 1/2 off the strip. These were installed on thin
lathing fastened overhead with screws in sequence, one side to the other, in the following manner. The first strip had glued to
the outboard edge a strip of industrial 3M plastic "Velcro", which made contact with a corresponding strip on the lathing strip.
The other side was then screwed to the lathe. The next strip's protruding plates were slipped under the just installed strip
between the lathe and that strip. On the opposite edge of the second plank, the plates were screwed to its lathe and so on across
the overhead until the last strip was installed and there, just like the first plank, was fastened with "Velcro" on its outboard
edge. No fastener showed. The overhead strips were very secure and easily removed for maintenance purpose, if required. Of course
these strips were first fitted, then removed, sanded smooth and finished in a spray booth with a flat white color before final
fitting. No grain or fastener showed anywhere. It was truly exquisite.
Steve


Thanks for information. This boat is a smallish 35 ' power boat that I
am refurbishing. The hull is essentially a fiberglass shell with a
encapsulated wooden frame. In addition there is a 1/2" - 3/4"
encapsulated reinforcement around each port to stiffen the cabin sides
in that area. This results in a rather "lumpy" interior which I plan
to hide.

As the motif is workboat all lighting and much of the wiring will be
run on the surface of the interior, in conduit or wire molding, so the
idea is to line the boat with 3mm ply surfaced with veneer or formica,
depending on the area.

I can bond a tee shaped strip to the hull and mount ceiling panels by
popping them under the tee but thought why not just glue the panels
in, directly to the hull.

Another poster tells me that he has used liquid nails and it doesn't
fall off so I think I'll go with that method. If worse comes to worst
and it does fall off there is always 3M 5200 - but that is a costly
method of attaching essentially decorative panels.


Lightweight paneling like that should work quite well just glued in.

Liquid Nail needs an air supply to dry it.
Trapping large amounts may cause it to take quite a bit longer to dry.

Other than that? Go for it!

Can you expand on the "need air". I thought it was used to put up wall
paneling and such like in houses. From the instructions on the tube
they say just smear on a bunch and push it in place. Good bond in a
day, full adhesion in 48 hours (I think). $2.50 a tube, or there
about.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 01 Oct 2009 20:21:28 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

Bruce In Bangkok wrote:
On Thu, 1 Oct 2009 22:39:02 +0200, "Steve Lusardi"
wrote:

Bruce,
In 2006 I helped install a new bridge on a super yacht in Italy. No
fasteners were allowed to show anywhere, which is actually
quite a feat, but the most interesting observation I made was the
method to install the overhead.

It was constructed of 6" wide 1/4" plywood strips tapered slightly on
the edges and on both sides square plates about 1.5 by 2.5
inches were screwed to the back side of strip with 24" spacing. These
thin sheet metal plates were offset from strip to strip by a
little over one plate width. These plates were positioned 1/2 on the
strip and 1/2 off the strip. These were installed on thin
lathing fastened overhead with screws in sequence, one side to the
other, in the following manner. The first strip had glued to
the outboard edge a strip of industrial 3M plastic "Velcro", which made
contact with a corresponding strip on the lathing strip.
The other side was then screwed to the lathe. The next strip's
protruding plates were slipped under the just installed strip
between the lathe and that strip. On the opposite edge of the second
plank, the plates were screwed to its lathe and so on across
the overhead until the last strip was installed and there, just like
the first plank, was fastened with "Velcro" on its outboard
edge. No fastener showed. The overhead strips were very secure and
easily removed for maintenance purpose, if required. Of course
these strips were first fitted, then removed, sanded smooth and
finished in a spray booth with a flat white color before final
fitting. No grain or fastener showed anywhere. It was truly exquisite.
Steve


Thanks for information. This boat is a smallish 35 ' power boat that I
am refurbishing. The hull is essentially a fiberglass shell with a
encapsulated wooden frame. In addition there is a 1/2" - 3/4"
encapsulated reinforcement around each port to stiffen the cabin sides
in that area. This results in a rather "lumpy" interior which I plan
to hide.

As the motif is workboat all lighting and much of the wiring will be
run on the surface of the interior, in conduit or wire molding, so the
idea is to line the boat with 3mm ply surfaced with veneer or formica,
depending on the area.

I can bond a tee shaped strip to the hull and mount ceiling panels by
popping them under the tee but thought why not just glue the panels
in, directly to the hull.

Another poster tells me that he has used liquid nails and it doesn't
fall off so I think I'll go with that method. If worse comes to worst
and it does fall off there is always 3M 5200 - but that is a costly
method of attaching essentially decorative panels.


Lightweight paneling like that should work quite well just glued in.

Liquid Nail needs an air supply to dry it.
Trapping large amounts may cause it to take quite a bit longer to dry.

Other than that? Go for it!

Can you expand on the "need air". I thought it was used to put up wall
paneling and such like in houses. From the instructions on the tube
they say just smear on a bunch and push it in place. Good bond in a
day, full adhesion in 48 hours (I think). $2.50 a tube, or there
about.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

There are a lot of Liquid Nails products, Bruce. They make a tub/shower
surround material that's supposed to be much better for water exposure.

Take a look at their tech data and MSDS sheets:

http://www.klenks.com/products/info.jsp?type=msdsSheets

--
Ed Huntress

On Fri, 2 Oct 2009 12:19:45 -0400, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 01 Oct 2009 20:21:28 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

Bruce In Bangkok wrote:
On Thu, 1 Oct 2009 22:39:02 +0200, "Steve Lusardi"
wrote:

Bruce,
In 2006 I helped install a new bridge on a super yacht in Italy. No
fasteners were allowed to show anywhere, which is actually
quite a feat, but the most interesting observation I made was the
method to install the overhead.

It was constructed of 6" wide 1/4" plywood strips tapered slightly on
the edges and on both sides square plates about 1.5 by 2.5
inches were screwed to the back side of strip with 24" spacing. These
thin sheet metal plates were offset from strip to strip by a
little over one plate width. These plates were positioned 1/2 on the
strip and 1/2 off the strip. These were installed on thin
lathing fastened overhead with screws in sequence, one side to the
other, in the following manner. The first strip had glued to
the outboard edge a strip of industrial 3M plastic "Velcro", which made
contact with a corresponding strip on the lathing strip.
The other side was then screwed to the lathe. The next strip's
protruding plates were slipped under the just installed strip
between the lathe and that strip. On the opposite edge of the second
plank, the plates were screwed to its lathe and so on across
the overhead until the last strip was installed and there, just like
the first plank, was fastened with "Velcro" on its outboard
edge. No fastener showed. The overhead strips were very secure and
easily removed for maintenance purpose, if required. Of course
these strips were first fitted, then removed, sanded smooth and
finished in a spray booth with a flat white color before final
fitting. No grain or fastener showed anywhere. It was truly exquisite.
Steve


Thanks for information. This boat is a smallish 35 ' power boat that I
am refurbishing. The hull is essentially a fiberglass shell with a
encapsulated wooden frame. In addition there is a 1/2" - 3/4"
encapsulated reinforcement around each port to stiffen the cabin sides
in that area. This results in a rather "lumpy" interior which I plan
to hide.

As the motif is workboat all lighting and much of the wiring will be
run on the surface of the interior, in conduit or wire molding, so the
idea is to line the boat with 3mm ply surfaced with veneer or formica,
depending on the area.

I can bond a tee shaped strip to the hull and mount ceiling panels by
popping them under the tee but thought why not just glue the panels
in, directly to the hull.

Another poster tells me that he has used liquid nails and it doesn't
fall off so I think I'll go with that method. If worse comes to worst
and it does fall off there is always 3M 5200 - but that is a costly
method of attaching essentially decorative panels.


Lightweight paneling like that should work quite well just glued in.

Liquid Nail needs an air supply to dry it.
Trapping large amounts may cause it to take quite a bit longer to dry.

Other than that? Go for it!

Can you expand on the "need air". I thought it was used to put up wall
paneling and such like in houses. From the instructions on the tube
they say just smear on a bunch and push it in place. Good bond in a
day, full adhesion in 48 hours (I think). $2.50 a tube, or there
about.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

There are a lot of Liquid Nails products, Bruce. They make a tub/shower
surround material that's supposed to be much better for water exposure.

Take a look at their tech data and MSDS sheets:

http://www.klenks.com/products/info.jsp?type=msdsSheets

Actually I was using "Liquid Nails" as a generic term as I'm not sure
exactly what or where the stuff that Home Pro is selling here is. Now
that I know that the stuff is at least semi-usable I will delve deeper
into who, what, when, where and why.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

Bruce In Bangkok wrote:
On Fri, 2 Oct 2009 12:19:45 -0400, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 01 Oct 2009 20:21:28 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

Bruce In Bangkok wrote:
On Thu, 1 Oct 2009 22:39:02 +0200, "Steve Lusardi"
wrote:

Bruce,
In 2006 I helped install a new bridge on a super yacht in Italy. No
fasteners were allowed to show anywhere, which is actually
quite a feat, but the most interesting observation I made was the
method to install the overhead.

It was constructed of 6" wide 1/4" plywood strips tapered slightly on
the edges and on both sides square plates about 1.5 by 2.5
inches were screwed to the back side of strip with 24" spacing. These
thin sheet metal plates were offset from strip to strip by a
little over one plate width. These plates were positioned 1/2 on the
strip and 1/2 off the strip. These were installed on thin
lathing fastened overhead with screws in sequence, one side to the
other, in the following manner. The first strip had glued to
the outboard edge a strip of industrial 3M plastic "Velcro", which made
contact with a corresponding strip on the lathing strip.
The other side was then screwed to the lathe. The next strip's
protruding plates were slipped under the just installed strip
between the lathe and that strip. On the opposite edge of the second
plank, the plates were screwed to its lathe and so on across
the overhead until the last strip was installed and there, just like
the first plank, was fastened with "Velcro" on its outboard
edge. No fastener showed. The overhead strips were very secure and
easily removed for maintenance purpose, if required. Of course
these strips were first fitted, then removed, sanded smooth and
finished in a spray booth with a flat white color before final
fitting. No grain or fastener showed anywhere. It was truly exquisite.
Steve

Thanks for information. This boat is a smallish 35 ' power boat that I
am refurbishing. The hull is essentially a fiberglass shell with a
encapsulated wooden frame. In addition there is a 1/2" - 3/4"
encapsulated reinforcement around each port to stiffen the cabin sides
in that area. This results in a rather "lumpy" interior which I plan
to hide.

As the motif is workboat all lighting and much of the wiring will be
run on the surface of the interior, in conduit or wire molding, so the
idea is to line the boat with 3mm ply surfaced with veneer or formica,
depending on the area.

I can bond a tee shaped strip to the hull and mount ceiling panels by
popping them under the tee but thought why not just glue the panels
in, directly to the hull.

Another poster tells me that he has used liquid nails and it doesn't
fall off so I think I'll go with that method. If worse comes to worst
and it does fall off there is always 3M 5200 - but that is a costly
method of attaching essentially decorative panels.

Lightweight paneling like that should work quite well just glued in.

Liquid Nail needs an air supply to dry it.
Trapping large amounts may cause it to take quite a bit longer to dry.

Other than that? Go for it!
Can you expand on the "need air". I thought it was used to put up wall
paneling and such like in houses. From the instructions on the tube
they say just smear on a bunch and push it in place. Good bond in a
day, full adhesion in 48 hours (I think). $2.50 a tube, or there
about.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)
There are a lot of Liquid Nails products, Bruce. They make a tub/shower
surround material that's supposed to be much better for water exposure.

Take a look at their tech data and MSDS sheets:

http://www.klenks.com/products/info.jsp?type=msdsSheets

Actually I was using "Liquid Nails" as a generic term as I'm not sure
exactly what or where the stuff that Home Pro is selling here is. Now
that I know that the stuff is at least semi-usable I will delve deeper
into who, what, when, where and why.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)


In that case, I would highly recommend PL-1 brands.

I've used it to make fuel tanks (test only - never had the guts to fly one).
Bu etching aluminum and priming it, the adhesive reacts with the primer and
gets a really good bite. Fuel proof (for av gas, but I won't claim that for
mogas or diesel. Too many solvents mixed in)

Bruce In Bangkok wrote:

Can you expand on the "need air". I thought it was used to put up wall
paneling and such like in houses. From the instructions on the tube
they say just smear on a bunch and push it in place. Good bond in a
day, full adhesion in 48 hours (I think). $2.50 a tube, or there
about.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

Hi Bruce,

What I meant is that these adhesives need an air source to dry out.

It's not a chemical reaction (like a two part mix?), but a simple
outgassing of the solvents used.

Almost all single part tubes are that way.

Like Ed said, try some different ones on samples to find what will
work best for your stuff. They are cheap enough.

Richard

On Fri, 02 Oct 2009 21:00:55 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

Bruce In Bangkok wrote:

Can you expand on the "need air". I thought it was used to put up wall
paneling and such like in houses. From the instructions on the tube
they say just smear on a bunch and push it in place. Good bond in a
day, full adhesion in 48 hours (I think). $2.50 a tube, or there
about.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

Hi Bruce,

What I meant is that these adhesives need an air source to dry out.

It's not a chemical reaction (like a two part mix?), but a simple
outgassing of the solvents used.

Almost all single part tubes are that way.

Like Ed said, try some different ones on samples to find what will
work best for your stuff. They are cheap enough.

Richard

Ah, I see. As I'm not sure exactly what I can buy here in Thailand - I
checked the Liquid Nails web site and they make more adhesive then
Sika. some of it recommended for exterior use and some not. I'll have
a look tomorrow or Monday and see exactly what I can get here. Sika
adhesive, for example, is NOT available however Sika sealant is...

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)