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#11
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Bilge drains Bonding, Corrosion and Mounting For a Westerly 22fiberglass twin keel sailboat
Bruce In Bangkok wrote:
Frankly I'm a bit confused with all this talk about people who install something using 5200 and then have problems taking it out. I wonder why they use something called an adhesive to install something they plan to remove. After all, epoxy glue is a pretty fair adhesive but I don't hear people warning "don't use epoxy, you'll never be able to take it apart..." \ Cheers, Bruce (bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom) And I'm confused too, 5200 is called an adhesive/sealant. I won't argue that it's a good sealant, but it primarily an adhesive. Sometimes we make life tougher than it needs to be by using the wrong criteria to select the material we are going to use. 5200 is a special case. People think that it's stronger and stronger is always better, when 4200 is a better choice, because you don't need strength. You need bedding compound. Sealant, not adhesive. 5200 is more of a construction adhesive, like you would use when you fasten a newly made fiberglass deck to a newly made hull. I use 4200 on thruhulls because a thruhull does not last forever, you might want to remove it, I just removed three old ones because of corrosion, or because you screwed up the threads by cross threading a new gate valve. A friend of mine just did that by not knowing one had a tapered thread. It's a nice sentiment that your thruhull is in place permanently. Permanent is not always desirable. See the guy with the transducer for more on that. Or my friend with the screwed up threads, or my old corroded ones. When I changed out my old transducer for a new model, and removed the old corroded thruhulls, I was pleasantly surprised they came out with minimal effort. I still had to use a 5 pound hammer and a block, and worked up quite a sweat. Took two days, but I didn't damage the hull doing it. It's always a good idea to use appropriate materials in appropriate applications. |
#12
posted to rec.boats.building
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Bilge drains Bonding, Corrosion and Mounting For a Westerly 22 fiberglass twin keel sailboat
On Mon, 20 Jul 2009 13:51:01 -0700, Jim wrote:
Bruce In Bangkok wrote: Frankly I'm a bit confused with all this talk about people who install something using 5200 and then have problems taking it out. I wonder why they use something called an adhesive to install something they plan to remove. After all, epoxy glue is a pretty fair adhesive but I don't hear people warning "don't use epoxy, you'll never be able to take it apart..." \ Cheers, Bruce (bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom) And I'm confused too, 5200 is called an adhesive/sealant. I won't argue that it's a good sealant, but it primarily an adhesive. Sometimes we make life tougher than it needs to be by using the wrong criteria to select the material we are going to use. 5200 is a special case. People think that it's stronger and stronger is always better, when 4200 is a better choice, because you don't need strength. You need bedding compound. Sealant, not adhesive. 5200 is more of a construction adhesive, like you would use when you fasten a newly made fiberglass deck to a newly made hull. I use 4200 on thruhulls because a thruhull does not last forever, you might want to remove it, I just removed three old ones because of corrosion, or because you screwed up the threads by cross threading a new gate valve. A friend of mine just did that by not knowing one had a tapered thread. It's a nice sentiment that your thruhull is in place permanently. Permanent is not always desirable. See the guy with the transducer for more on that. Or my friend with the screwed up threads, or my old corroded ones. When I changed out my old transducer for a new model, and removed the old corroded thruhulls, I was pleasantly surprised they came out with minimal effort. I still had to use a 5 pound hammer and a block, and worked up quite a sweat. Took two days, but I didn't damage the hull doing it. It's always a good idea to use appropriate materials in appropriate applications. My point exactly - why misuse a product and then bitch about it? Cheers, Bruce (bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom) |
#14
posted to rec.boats.building
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Bilge drains Bonding, Corrosion and Mounting For a Westerly 22fiberglass twin keel sailboat
Richard Casady wrote:
/snip/ Guys glue the metal parts of a rifle into the stock with epoxy. You use dry ice. The metal and glue will shrink different ammounts. that plus maybe a bit of the mallet will generally break the bond. Casady Which reminds me - I saw a product that came as news to me in this application: a can of refrigerant aerosol that freezes a rusty joint to -40 degrees, so the rust line cracks, and thin releasing lubricant can enter. Who knew? Not me. Brian W |
#15
posted to rec.boats.building
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Bilge drains Bonding, Corrosion and Mounting For a Westerly 22 fiberglass twin keel sailboat
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#16
posted to rec.boats.building
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Bilge drains Bonding, Corrosion and Mounting For a Westerly 22 fiberglass twin keel sailboat
On Fri, 21 Aug 2009 06:22:57 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote: On Thu, 13 Aug 2009 16:26:20 GMT, (Richard Casady) wrote: Guys glue the metal parts of a rifle into the stock with epoxy. You use dry ice. The metal and glue will shrink different ammounts. that plus maybe a bit of the mallet will generally break the bond. Casady If you are talking about "glass bedding" it isn't usually "gluing" the barrel and action into the stock, it is actually fitting the action and barrel to the stock - you are supposed to use wax or other release action on the steel parts :-) Not usually, sometimes. I am familiar with glass bedding with a release agent. I sold the kits at my gun store. This is deliberately glueing the gun together, in a manner intended to be perminent. Only by the benchrest crowd, far as I know. Casady |
#17
posted to rec.boats.building
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Bilge drains Bonding, Corrosion and Mounting For a Westerly 22 fiberglass twin keel sailboat
On Mon, 24 Aug 2009 12:24:07 GMT, (Richard
Casady) wrote: On Fri, 21 Aug 2009 06:22:57 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok wrote: On Thu, 13 Aug 2009 16:26:20 GMT, (Richard Casady) wrote: Guys glue the metal parts of a rifle into the stock with epoxy. You use dry ice. The metal and glue will shrink different ammounts. that plus maybe a bit of the mallet will generally break the bond. Casady If you are talking about "glass bedding" it isn't usually "gluing" the barrel and action into the stock, it is actually fitting the action and barrel to the stock - you are supposed to use wax or other release action on the steel parts :-) Not usually, sometimes. I am familiar with glass bedding with a release agent. I sold the kits at my gun store. This is deliberately glueing the gun together, in a manner intended to be perminent. Only by the benchrest crowd, far as I know. Casady If it is a bench rest gun then anything is likely. I've seen some of the "unlimited" guns that you needed to be told "it's a gun" to figure out what it was. Cheers, Bruce (bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom) |
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