Have you seen the latest improvements I've made on my blue-water cruising yacht?

Click on this link and feast your eyes on perfection: http://captneal.homestead.com/Exterior.html
Lot's of links to great photos that will make your mouth water and your complexion green with envy.

Be careful, though, because after looking at my fine vessel, your mediocre vessels won't ever
satisfy you again. (A word to the wise is sufficient!)

CN

Overall, I'd say you're taking reasonably good care of your boat (I could
nitpick, but that's what it would be).
However, some points which you and others may not agree upon, but for what
they're worth......
1. You're either going to have to buy a bigger boat, or figure you've put
about as much on it as you can.

2. Case in point, the bow. I'm hoping that all those anchors were up there,
mainly for the pictures, and not normally stowed that way, especially
underway or at sea.. Way too much clutter and chance for fouling, etc.. I'd
rather see one anchor on that size boat that fit's most your needs, with the
others stowed someplace else, for use when conditions warrant.

3.The new rollers seem to have too many sharp edges on the side plates which
could (kinda tough to imagine all the possible angle leads) cause potential
chaffing problems when you least need or expect them.

4.Bow cleats. I see you've added a set (not sure what your thinking was, but
not that bad an idea). Overall, I don't like the fairlead possibilities,
over the side, from either of these cleats, especially the main ones you are
using for your mooring lines. Again, too sharp an angle, even considering
the half round.
Have you considered adding a chock (closed or open) closer to the edge, then
leading to the cleat? Could be a single larger or double larger cleat/
bollard, located closer to the centerline. (reason I say larger .... I see
you are immediately figure 8'ing your line [and with your cleat size, line
size, I would too], but I'd rather see a full round turn before you figure
8.
By looking at this set-up, you may be able to clean-up what is becoming an
all too cluttered area.

BTW Flemished lines are for show, not go.... they only impress Admirals and
politicians.


otn

EG Kindly note, this post is not meant as my usual rampant criticism of
your normal nonsense, but rather, constructive comment.

"Capt. Neal®" wrote in message
...
Have you seen the latest improvements I've made on my blue-water cruising
yacht?

Click on this link and feast your eyes on perfection:
http://captneal.homestead.com/Exterior.html
Lot's of links to great photos that will make your mouth water and your
complexion green with envy.

Be careful, though, because after looking at my fine vessel, your mediocre
vessels won't ever
satisfy you again. (A word to the wise is sufficient!)

CN

Comments interspersed.


"otnmbrd" wrote in message k.net...
Overall, I'd say you're taking reasonably good care of your boat (I could nitpick, but that's what it would be).

Thanks for the good words . . .

However, some points which you and others may not agree upon, but for what they're worth......

1. You're either going to have to buy a bigger boat, or figure you've put about as much on it as you can.

No bigger boat for me. Studies have been done and a well-found sailing yacht
of 27 feet is perhaps the best all around compromise to be had for a single-hander.

2. Case in point, the bow. I'm hoping that all those anchors were up there, mainly for the pictures, and not normally stowed that
way, especially underway or at sea.. Way too much clutter and chance for fouling, etc.. I'd rather see one anchor on that size
boat that fit's most your needs, with the others stowed someplace else, for use when conditions warrant.

And you would be incorrect. Remember the lines rolled up in the middle are mooring
lines and will not be there when underway. They will be buoyed and in the water.
That leaves three anchors, a plow, a Danforth, and a yachtsman or Herreschoff
as it is sometimes called. These three different types of anchors are needed
depending upon the bottom type as shown on the carts. One can pick the one(s)
most likely to hold the best under the circumstances.

The plow is the only anchor to have the rode stowed on deck. It is also the
least used as it is the most likely to drag unexpectedly. The rodes for the
Herreschoff and Danforth are stowed in the chain locker. So, remove all the
lines you see in this pictu http://captneal.homestead.com/files/prtbw.jpg
except the one on the port side which is for the plow. and you will see how it
looks when underway. Not much clutter now, is there?



3.The new rollers seem to have too many sharp edges on the side plates which could (kinda tough to imagine all the possible angle
leads) cause potential chaffing problems when you least need or expect them.

If you could see the rollers and channel plate close up you would see all the
edges are nicely rounded off and smooth from the factory. This is stainless
steel and expensive. There has never been any chaffing of the rode to date.

4.Bow cleats. I see you've added a set (not sure what your thinking was, but not that bad an idea). Overall, I don't like the
fairlead possibilities, over the side, from either of these cleats, especially the main ones you are using for your mooring lines.
Again, too sharp an angle, even considering the half round.

The originals are where they are and there's not much I can do about it other
than using a bit of chaffing gear that can be seen in the picture for the mooring
lines. The extra cleats I added (the aft cleats) :
http://captneal.homestead.com/files/Yacht_010e.jpg
are positioned so the lead-in from the opposite side roller makes for a fair lead and
no chafing at all. Note that in the pic above I was anchored off the Danforth for a
short while just to take to take a pictures so the line is lead to the same side cleat
whereas for real anchoring it would lead to the opposite side cleat and the lead
would be fair. For two anchors deployed you would see crossed lines leading
to the cleats. Understand? In other words the cleats are placed so the port side
cleat services the starboard side anchor roller and vice versa. Pretty clever, huh?

Have you considered adding a chock (closed or open) closer to the edge, then leading to the cleat? Could be a single larger or
double larger cleat/ bollard, located closer to the centerline. (reason I say larger .... I see you are immediately figure 8'ing
your line [and with your cleat size, line size, I would too], but I'd rather see a full round turn before you figure 8.

There is no room for a chock. In actuality, the aft side of the original
cleats acts as a chock.If the line is lead from the aft end of the cleat there
is not as much bending as you a seem to be concerned with and by adding some
pvc tubing over the mooring line, it takes care of chafe. When anchoring, it
doesn't seem to be a problem because the lines don't go as straight down as
the mooring lines do. I did add the stainless steel rubbing strake to smooth
the sharp GRP edge near the cleat, however.

By looking at this set-up, you may be able to clean-up what is becoming an all too cluttered area.

Again, there is very little clutter if you look at the above pic as it shows things
as they are when underway except the Danforth would be on its bow roller
and it's rode would be stowed in the chain locker.

If you are referring to this pic http://captneal.homestead.com/files/anchor.jpg
then you are correct. They were Flemished for the pic only. I no longer use the
little anchor chocks for the Danforth but haven't removed them yet.
I plan to leave them in place but surround them with teak tapered so there is
no tripping or snagging hazard. They make a good place to
store an emergency anchor which I have stowed in the cockpit locker in case
of storm conditions where another ready anchor might be warranted.

BTW Flemished lines are for show, not go.... they only impress Admirals and politicians.

But they look so cool.

EG Kindly note, this post is not meant as my usual rampant criticism of your normal nonsense, but rather, constructive comment.

Thanks for you comments. You made some good points.

CN


"Capt. Neal®" wrote in message ...
Have you seen the latest improvements I've made on my blue-water cruising yacht?

Click on this link and feast your eyes on perfection: http://captneal.homestead.com/Exterior.html
Lot's of links to great photos that will make your mouth water and your complexion green with envy.

Be careful, though, because after looking at my fine vessel, your mediocre vessels won't ever
satisfy you again. (A word to the wise is sufficient!)

CN

Comments also interspersed.

"Capt. Neal®" wrote in message
...
Comments interspersed.


"otnmbrd" wrote in message
k.net...
Overall, I'd say you're taking reasonably good care of your boat (I could
nitpick, but that's what it would be).

Thanks for the good words . . .

However, some points which you and others may not agree upon, but for
what they're worth......

1. You're either going to have to buy a bigger boat, or figure you've put
about as much on it as you can.

No bigger boat for me. Studies have been done and a well-found sailing
yacht
of 27 feet is perhaps the best all around compromise to be had for a
single-hander.
\
In that case I'd say be careful of any additional equipment.....you're
developing a nasty cluttered look.


2. Case in point, the bow. I'm hoping that all those anchors were up
there, mainly for the pictures, and not normally stowed that way,
especially underway or at sea.. Way too much clutter and chance for
fouling, etc.. I'd rather see one anchor on that size boat that fit's
most your needs, with the others stowed someplace else, for use when
conditions warrant.

And you would be incorrect. Remember the lines rolled up in the middle are
mooring
lines and will not be there when underway. They will be buoyed and in the
water.
That leaves three anchors, a plow, a Danforth, and a yachtsman or
Herreschoff
as it is sometimes called. These three different types of anchors are
needed
depending upon the bottom type as shown on the carts. One can pick the
one(s)
most likely to hold the best under the circumstances.

The plow is the only anchor to have the rode stowed on deck. It is also
the
least used as it is the most likely to drag unexpectedly. The rodes for
the
Herreschoff and Danforth are stowed in the chain locker. So, remove all
the
lines you see in this pictu
http://captneal.homestead.com/files/prtbw.jpg
except the one on the port side which is for the plow. and you will see
how it
looks when underway. Not much clutter now, is there?

To me, yes. If you can look ahead with your charts for possible anchor type
requirements, then for the most part you can either use one type for initial
anchoring and then change for preferential anchor or break out your
preferred as approaching the anchorage. What you have has too much clutter
and chance of fouling under a stressful condition ( set up for worst case
scenario with minimum clutter and equipment that covers "most"
possibilities).
Hey, it may work for you, but I see too many "bad" possibilities here.




3.The new rollers seem to have too many sharp edges on the side plates
which could (kinda tough to imagine all the possible angle leads) cause
potential chaffing problems when you least need or expect them.

If you could see the rollers and channel plate close up you would see all
the
edges are nicely rounded off and smooth from the factory. This is
stainless
steel and expensive. There has never been any chaffing of the rode to
date.

This may be true, but I've seen too much chaffing under conditions when it
was thought things were well rounded (see below)


4.Bow cleats. I see you've added a set (not sure what your thinking was,
but not that bad an idea). Overall, I don't like the fairlead
possibilities, over the side, from either of these cleats, especially the
main ones you are using for your mooring lines. Again, too sharp an
angle, even considering the half round.

The originals are where they are and there's not much I can do about it
other
than using a bit of chaffing gear that can be seen in the picture for the
mooring
lines. The extra cleats I added (the aft cleats) :
http://captneal.homestead.com/files/Yacht_010e.jpg
are positioned so the lead-in from the opposite side roller makes for a
fair lead and
no chafing at all. Note that in the pic above I was anchored off the
Danforth for a
short while just to take to take a pictures so the line is lead to the
same side cleat
whereas for real anchoring it would lead to the opposite side cleat and
the lead
would be fair. For two anchors deployed you would see crossed lines
leading
to the cleats. Understand? In other words the cleats are placed so the
port side
cleat services the starboard side anchor roller and vice versa. Pretty
clever, huh?

Possibility would be to remove originals and replace with chocks and use
newer as main cleats.
You will note, that in your picture, at anchor, that the line led in such a
way it crossed what I would consider "sharp" edges on the roller frame, plus
crossed and rubbed against the pulpit.
As you say, if the opposite cleats will normally be used and the lead is
fair, this might help things, but, sometimes fairleads don't always work
exactly as we want..... no, these rollers would not be my favorite.


Have you considered adding a chock (closed or open) closer to the edge,
then leading to the cleat? Could be a single larger or double larger
cleat/ bollard, located closer to the centerline. (reason I say larger
.... I see you are immediately figure 8'ing your line [and with your
cleat size, line size, I would too], but I'd rather see a full round turn
before you figure 8.

There is no room for a chock. In actuality, the aft side of the original
cleats acts as a chock.

Yes and no.
I can see your points, but, I think I would keep looking at this area for
improvements. Naturally, it's hard to judge, based on pictures, but I see
too many chances for fouled equipment and line chafing, coupled with a big
ship mentality of clearing the decks of any extras, anything that moves, or
anything that might move when underway.

otn

Oh Neal,

I'm sorry old buddy but I'm embarrassed for you and for your boat.
Please don't show those pictures again.

You still haven't taken care of the Bimini support so that a winch
handle can turn 360 degree turn.

You should be ashamed to show that picture of wing on wing with the
Jenny inside the shroud. that is terrible and the Main. My God man! You
have a screw up on the Tack. I can't even call it a wrinkle it is so
large. It should be trimmed out

Get that damn head sail outside the shroud and trim the damn main sail
by vang and halyard tension, It is as easy to sail correctly as it is to
sail stupidly and more fun. Don't tell us how many different boats
you've beaten with that kind of sail trim. No way!

She does look nice and clean and I've already complimented you on the
job you done on the cockpit seats. Nice paint job also, Neal, no paint
job can hide the fact that she is a flat sided, high sided boat with a
damn ugly sheer. I don't have to tell you. you've admitted it by trying
to hide it with your paint job

I'll laugh with you about,---from to Crow's Nest (as if you had one) but
I sure wouldn't want to be on watch aloft in what you call a crows nest.

There are enough old timer here to remember these pictures with their
blaring errors. Please don't show them again.

Ole Thom

Your boats looks very shipshape Capt Neal.

What kind of paint did you use when you painted it?

"Capt. Neal®" wrote

http://captneal.homestead.com/Exterior.html

Sears Weatherbeater...

"Bart Senior" wrote in message
...
Your boats looks very shipshape Capt Neal.

What kind of paint did you use when you painted it?

"Capt. Neal®" wrote

http://captneal.homestead.com/Exterior.html

Capt. Neal® wrote:

2. Case in point, the bow. I'm hoping that all those anchors were up
there, mainly for the pictures, and not normally stowed that way,
especially underway or at sea.. Way too much clutter and chance for
fouling, etc.. I'd rather see one anchor on that size boat that fit's
most your needs, with the others stowed someplace else, for use when
conditions warrant.


That leaves three anchors, a plow, a Danforth, and a yachtsman or
Herreschoff
as it is sometimes called.

It would be nice if you actually had a Herreshoff Anchor, but that
looks like a cheap imitation. On a true Herreshoff, the broad palms
extend further towards the crown.

And if you going to drop names like Herreshoff in order to sound
intelligent, the least you could do is spell it correctly.


These three different types of anchors are
needed
depending upon the bottom type as shown on the carts. One can pick the
one(s)
most likely to hold the best under the circumstances.

The plow is the only anchor to have the rode stowed on deck. It is also the
least used as it is the most likely to drag unexpectedly.

This is certainly contrary to the universal experience of cruisers.
Of course, pound for pound the CQR is particular inefficient,
especially at the smaller sizes. Perhaps you should get a modern
version of the plow.

"Jeff Morris" wrote in message

This is certainly contrary to the universal experience of cruisers. Of
course, pound for pound the CQR is particular inefficient, especially at
the smaller sizes. Perhaps you should get a modern version of the plow.

The CQR is my favourite anchor. If you set properly with correct chain and
rode... there is no reason to doubt the plow design as being effective. My
26lb stainless plow with 100 ft of chain is my main anchor. The chain is
fastened by swivel shackle to 300 ft of 3/4" rode.
My second anchor is also a plow, galvanized, with the same set up. I also
have a 50lb steel fluke and a 60lb fisherman's anchor with 30 ft lengths of
chain for each and a spool of 1/2" braid I can use as rode.

CM

"Jeff Morris" wrote
This is certainly contrary to the universal experience of cruisers. Of
course, pound for pound the CQR is particular inefficient, especially at
the smaller sizes. Perhaps you should get a modern version of the plow.


We're thinking about either a spade or a bruce.

Capt. Mooron wrote:
The CQR is my favourite anchor. If you set properly with correct chain and
rode... there is no reason to doubt the plow design as being effective.

OK, how do you set it properly? We've been using a CQR anchor for two
years with less than stellar results... it's never dragged but it is
often slow to set and appears to not like a wider range of bottoms than
I'd have thought. If I can find a good enough deal on a replacement,
we're taking it off.

We have a 35# Danforth also but it's stowed in the lazarette and is a
PITA to get out & deploy.


.... My
26lb stainless plow with 100 ft of chain is my main anchor. The chain is
fastened by swivel shackle to 300 ft of 3/4" rode.
My second anchor is also a plow, galvanized, with the same set up. I also
have a 50lb steel fluke and a 60lb fisherman's anchor with 30 ft lengths of
chain for each and a spool of 1/2" braid I can use as rode.



1/2" braid anchor rode for a 30-footer?!?! And you should get longer
chains for your backups. Take 25' off the chain on your CQR and put it
on the fluke & fisherman.

We have 40' of 3/8" HT chain on each anchor. I'd rather have more but we
often anchor in 5' and that puts the chain right at the sampson post.

I'd like to have a fisherman anchor, probably need one about 75#, as a
backup but they are horrible to stow.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King