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otnmbrd
 
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Comments also interspersed.

"Capt. NealŪ" wrote in message
...
Comments interspersed.


"otnmbrd" wrote in message
k.net...
Overall, I'd say you're taking reasonably good care of your boat (I could
nitpick, but that's what it would be).


Thanks for the good words . . .

However, some points which you and others may not agree upon, but for
what they're worth......


1. You're either going to have to buy a bigger boat, or figure you've put
about as much on it as you can.


No bigger boat for me. Studies have been done and a well-found sailing
yacht
of 27 feet is perhaps the best all around compromise to be had for a
single-hander.

\
In that case I'd say be careful of any additional equipment.....you're
developing a nasty cluttered look.


2. Case in point, the bow. I'm hoping that all those anchors were up
there, mainly for the pictures, and not normally stowed that way,
especially underway or at sea.. Way too much clutter and chance for
fouling, etc.. I'd rather see one anchor on that size boat that fit's
most your needs, with the others stowed someplace else, for use when
conditions warrant.


And you would be incorrect. Remember the lines rolled up in the middle are
mooring
lines and will not be there when underway. They will be buoyed and in the
water.
That leaves three anchors, a plow, a Danforth, and a yachtsman or
Herreschoff
as it is sometimes called. These three different types of anchors are
needed
depending upon the bottom type as shown on the carts. One can pick the
one(s)
most likely to hold the best under the circumstances.

The plow is the only anchor to have the rode stowed on deck. It is also
the
least used as it is the most likely to drag unexpectedly. The rodes for
the
Herreschoff and Danforth are stowed in the chain locker. So, remove all
the
lines you see in this pictu
http://captneal.homestead.com/files/prtbw.jpg
except the one on the port side which is for the plow. and you will see
how it
looks when underway. Not much clutter now, is there?


To me, yes. If you can look ahead with your charts for possible anchor type
requirements, then for the most part you can either use one type for initial
anchoring and then change for preferential anchor or break out your
preferred as approaching the anchorage. What you have has too much clutter
and chance of fouling under a stressful condition ( set up for worst case
scenario with minimum clutter and equipment that covers "most"
possibilities).
Hey, it may work for you, but I see too many "bad" possibilities here.




3.The new rollers seem to have too many sharp edges on the side plates
which could (kinda tough to imagine all the possible angle leads) cause
potential chaffing problems when you least need or expect them.


If you could see the rollers and channel plate close up you would see all
the
edges are nicely rounded off and smooth from the factory. This is
stainless
steel and expensive. There has never been any chaffing of the rode to
date.


This may be true, but I've seen too much chaffing under conditions when it
was thought things were well rounded (see below)


4.Bow cleats. I see you've added a set (not sure what your thinking was,
but not that bad an idea). Overall, I don't like the fairlead
possibilities, over the side, from either of these cleats, especially the
main ones you are using for your mooring lines. Again, too sharp an
angle, even considering the half round.


The originals are where they are and there's not much I can do about it
other
than using a bit of chaffing gear that can be seen in the picture for the
mooring
lines. The extra cleats I added (the aft cleats) :
http://captneal.homestead.com/files/Yacht_010e.jpg
are positioned so the lead-in from the opposite side roller makes for a
fair lead and
no chafing at all. Note that in the pic above I was anchored off the
Danforth for a
short while just to take to take a pictures so the line is lead to the
same side cleat
whereas for real anchoring it would lead to the opposite side cleat and
the lead
would be fair. For two anchors deployed you would see crossed lines
leading
to the cleats. Understand? In other words the cleats are placed so the
port side
cleat services the starboard side anchor roller and vice versa. Pretty
clever, huh?


Possibility would be to remove originals and replace with chocks and use
newer as main cleats.
You will note, that in your picture, at anchor, that the line led in such a
way it crossed what I would consider "sharp" edges on the roller frame, plus
crossed and rubbed against the pulpit.
As you say, if the opposite cleats will normally be used and the lead is
fair, this might help things, but, sometimes fairleads don't always work
exactly as we want..... no, these rollers would not be my favorite.


Have you considered adding a chock (closed or open) closer to the edge,
then leading to the cleat? Could be a single larger or double larger
cleat/ bollard, located closer to the centerline. (reason I say larger
.... I see you are immediately figure 8'ing your line [and with your
cleat size, line size, I would too], but I'd rather see a full round turn
before you figure 8.


There is no room for a chock. In actuality, the aft side of the original
cleats acts as a chock.


Yes and no.
I can see your points, but, I think I would keep looking at this area for
improvements. Naturally, it's hard to judge, based on pictures, but I see
too many chances for fouled equipment and line chafing, coupled with a big
ship mentality of clearing the decks of any extras, anything that moves, or
anything that might move when underway.

otn