one thing i did do last year was to re-plumb the raw water intake.
to include a valve in the engine compartment with a hose bib to facilitate
winterizing the boat.
it also serves as a very capable bilge pump should the occasion present
itself.
set of bungs.
hose clamps
extra hose for engine raw water. been there when a hose busted at 2 in the
morning. (why does everything that is critcal happen at 2 in the morning?)
rebuilt the emergency bilge pump (manual)

other than that: an eprib, a hand held radio and flares sit just inside the
campionway

gf.

"Joe" wrote in message
om...
What type of damage control gear do you keep on board.?

Dunnage, plugs. bracing, patches, ect to keep your vessel floating if
you hole your hull.

Joe

Maxprop wrote:
Obviously the plugs should be fairly soft, such as basswood, pine, or soft
maple (which is actually a hardwood, but a softer one). But those woods are
prone to rot, if allowed to remain damp for periods. Soak them in some sort
of oil, such as linseed, before storing them. Or you can make them from
teak, but they'll be more difficult to keep in a thru-hull after driving
them in.

Frankly, I think duct tape and a trash bag is a lot more useful than a
plug. If a seacock breaks, it is unlikely to leave a nice neat round
hole to drive a plug in. But who am I to argue with age-old tradition?

DSK

The plugs have come in handy for me because they're easy to jam into a hose.
Sometimes you don't want to force a seacock, or they can be hard to reach.

"DSK" wrote in message
. ..
Maxprop wrote:
Obviously the plugs should be fairly soft, such as basswood, pine, or soft
maple (which is actually a hardwood, but a softer one). But those woods are
prone to rot, if allowed to remain damp for periods. Soak them in some sort
of oil, such as linseed, before storing them. Or you can make them from
teak, but they'll be more difficult to keep in a thru-hull after driving
them in.

Frankly, I think duct tape and a trash bag is a lot more useful than a
plug. If a seacock breaks, it is unlikely to leave a nice neat round
hole to drive a plug in. But who am I to argue with age-old tradition?

DSK

We have plugs and duct tape/plastic onboard. The real joke is
the "emergency tiller." It would only take about 1/2 hour to get
the damn thing on. We tried it one day at the dock, what a joke.
(This was on a Yamaha 30.)

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

"DSK" wrote in message
. ..
Maxprop wrote:
Obviously the plugs should be fairly soft, such as basswood, pine, or
soft
maple (which is actually a hardwood, but a softer one). But those woods
are
prone to rot, if allowed to remain damp for periods. Soak them in some
sort
of oil, such as linseed, before storing them. Or you can make them from
teak, but they'll be more difficult to keep in a thru-hull after driving
them in.

Frankly, I think duct tape and a trash bag is a lot more useful than a
plug. If a seacock breaks, it is unlikely to leave a nice neat round hole
to drive a plug in. But who am I to argue with age-old tradition?

DSK

DSK wrote in message ...
Maxprop wrote:
Obviously the plugs should be fairly soft, such as basswood, pine, or soft
maple (which is actually a hardwood, but a softer one). But those woods are
prone to rot, if allowed to remain damp for periods. Soak them in some sort
of oil, such as linseed, before storing them. Or you can make them from
teak, but they'll be more difficult to keep in a thru-hull after driving
them in.

Frankly, I think duct tape and a trash bag is a lot more useful than a
plug. If a seacock breaks, it is unlikely to leave a nice neat round
hole to drive a plug in. But who am I to argue with age-old tradition?

DSK


Sounds like a good ideal Doug, but I would only add duct tape and
bags to my DC kit. Plugs are great to use from the outside in. That
way if you have a spare valve and threading gear you can fix a busted
thru hull offshore.

I think thru hulls are an easy fix. What I would worry about is tears
or long holes caused by something like smaking the corner of a
submerged container or sharp reef. How would you fix lets say a 2
inch wide 14" long hole?

Joe

Joe

Trying to remember the model of boat, but the emergency tiller was steered
from the aft cabin!!!!
John Cairns
"Jonathan Ganz" wrote in message
...
We have plugs and duct tape/plastic onboard. The real joke is
the "emergency tiller." It would only take about 1/2 hour to get
the damn thing on. We tried it one day at the dock, what a joke.
(This was on a Yamaha 30.)

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

"DSK" wrote in message
. ..
Maxprop wrote:
Obviously the plugs should be fairly soft, such as basswood, pine, or
soft
maple (which is actually a hardwood, but a softer one). But those woods
are
prone to rot, if allowed to remain damp for periods. Soak them in some
sort
of oil, such as linseed, before storing them. Or you can make them from
teak, but they'll be more difficult to keep in a thru-hull after driving
them in.

Frankly, I think duct tape and a trash bag is a lot more useful than a
plug. If a seacock breaks, it is unlikely to leave a nice neat round hole
to drive a plug in. But who am I to argue with age-old tradition?

DSK

Joe wrote:
Sounds like a good ideal Doug, but I would only add duct tape and
bags to my DC kit. Plugs are great to use from the outside in.

That's true.

... That
way if you have a spare valve and threading gear you can fix a busted
thru hull offshore.

You gonna carry a set of 2" and larger pipe thread dies?


I think thru hulls are an easy fix.

So far, I have had pretty easy times with all the ones I've tangled with.

... What I would worry about is tears
or long holes caused by something like smaking the corner of a
submerged container or sharp reef.

Not in a steel boat, you shouldn't. The two worst case failure modes for
you would be a welded seam opening up or rust through. In either case,
you're unlikely to fix it while afloat... the answer is to duct tape (or
something) it so as to minimize leaks and get her hauled pronto.


... How would you fix lets say a 2
inch wide 14" long hole?

I wouldn't. I'd brace a cushion against it or put a mat over the outside
(fothering). Either should seal pretty good if you plaster some 3M-101
or something similar (tallow?) over the contact face. Get the boat to
haul out, then get to work with grinder & West System.

It's likely that a hole as big as 14" is going to involve some
structural compromise, you wouldn't want to keep sailing the boat... at
least, not hard anyway... if you had the option.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

That's why you need rags....you jam a rag in and then jam the plug in and
the rag fills in the edges.....old socks would work good, too....or grundy
undies....
"DSK" wrote in message
. ..
Maxprop wrote:
Obviously the plugs should be fairly soft, such as basswood, pine, or
soft
maple (which is actually a hardwood, but a softer one). But those woods
are
prone to rot, if allowed to remain damp for periods. Soak them in some
sort
of oil, such as linseed, before storing them. Or you can make them from
teak, but they'll be more difficult to keep in a thru-hull after driving
them in.

Frankly, I think duct tape and a trash bag is a lot more useful than a
plug. If a seacock breaks, it is unlikely to leave a nice neat round
hole to drive a plug in. But who am I to argue with age-old tradition?

DSK

Isn't that the Caralina 34?
"John Cairns" wrote in message
om...
Trying to remember the model of boat, but the emergency tiller was steered
from the aft cabin!!!!
John Cairns
"Jonathan Ganz" wrote in message
...
We have plugs and duct tape/plastic onboard. The real joke is
the "emergency tiller." It would only take about 1/2 hour to get
the damn thing on. We tried it one day at the dock, what a joke.
(This was on a Yamaha 30.)

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

"DSK" wrote in message
. ..
Maxprop wrote:
Obviously the plugs should be fairly soft, such as basswood, pine, or
soft
maple (which is actually a hardwood, but a softer one). But those
woods
are
prone to rot, if allowed to remain damp for periods. Soak them in
some
sort
of oil, such as linseed, before storing them. Or you can make them
from
teak, but they'll be more difficult to keep in a thru-hull after
driving
them in.

Frankly, I think duct tape and a trash bag is a lot more useful than a
plug. If a seacock breaks, it is unlikely to leave a nice neat round
hole
to drive a plug in. But who am I to argue with age-old tradition?

DSK

I'd jam all the bedding into it first and then get a sail and do the under
the hull thing.....
"Joe" wrote in message
om...
DSK wrote in message
...
Maxprop wrote:
Obviously the plugs should be fairly soft, such as basswood, pine, or
soft
maple (which is actually a hardwood, but a softer one). But those
woods are
prone to rot, if allowed to remain damp for periods. Soak them in
some sort
of oil, such as linseed, before storing them. Or you can make them
from
teak, but they'll be more difficult to keep in a thru-hull after
driving
them in.

Frankly, I think duct tape and a trash bag is a lot more useful than a
plug. If a seacock breaks, it is unlikely to leave a nice neat round
hole to drive a plug in. But who am I to argue with age-old tradition?

DSK


Sounds like a good ideal Doug, but I would only add duct tape and
bags to my DC kit. Plugs are great to use from the outside in. That
way if you have a spare valve and threading gear you can fix a busted
thru hull offshore.

I think thru hulls are an easy fix. What I would worry about is tears
or long holes caused by something like smaking the corner of a
submerged container or sharp reef. How would you fix lets say a 2
inch wide 14" long hole?

Joe

Joe