All good Marc... but the face plate faces the engine I believe.

CM

"Marc" wrote in message
...
| 2 things. first , get a speed seal pump cover. 4 knurled thumb screws
| and the cover comes off, no tools.
|
| second, drill out the threaded holes in the pump and weld nuts to the
| forward side of the pump bracket. Insert the bolts through the pump
| from the rear , Pump is then removeable without removing the bracket.
|
| On Sat, 24 Jul 2004 23:26:28 -0300, "Capt. Mooron"
| wrote:
|
| I'm overjoyed I coaxed you into a proper reply to Bart's Question Jeff!
;-P
|
| Seriously... each step you illustrated was correct... and I don't have a
| gauge so I have to assume a warning buzzer. I've had a few clogged
intakes
| in time and a couple of bad impellers.... I concur with your assessment
of
| Yanmar Pumps!
|
| CM
|
|
| "Jeff Morris" wrote in message
| ...
| | The coolant flow can be checked by inspection almost immediately,
though a
| | partial clog can look OK and still send it into Overheat. Certainly
I'd
| look
| | there first if there was any significant change.
| |
| | However, if the gauge is moving quickly, like up and down in a matter
of
| | seconds, it can't be a real temperature issue, because the coolant
can't
| change
| | temperature that quickly. I've never had a temp sensor do that, but
I've
| seen
| | it from a faulty oil pressure sensor, and I've seen it from a dangling
| wire.
| |
| | When my heat exchanger was partially clogged the engine was more
sensitive
| the
| | overheating problems. I could tell within a few seconds if my wife
turned
| on
| | the microwave because the temp would start to creep up. Now the temp
is
| a bit
| | more stable, but I can't run the engine up to 3000 rpm if the
alternator
| is
| | fully loaded.
| |
| | BTW, last week I did have an overheat situation: within a minute after
| dropping
| | the mooring at Kittery, I noticed the starboard engine temp going up.
It
| put it
| | into neutral and asked my wife to check the water flow - there was
none.
| We
| | killed the engine and went back to the mooring (its sometimes nice to
have
| two
| | engines!). First I pulled the intake of the pump - full flow meaning
no
| intake
| | clog. Then I pulled the output hose off and asked my wife to "start"
with
| the
| | kill switch pulled - no flow. At that point I just pulled off the
water
| pump,
| | removed the cover (damn Yanmar mounted the pump on the GM's so that the
| cover
| | can't be reached without pulling the pump!). The impellor looked OK,
but
| my
| | wife asked how it worked so I spun the pulley to show her but the
impeller
| | didn't spin! I seems the impellor was spinning free on its hub. A
spare
| was
| | put in and we were underway again with a total delay of about 45
minutes.
| |
| |
| |
| |
| | "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message
| | ...
| | Good Grief Jeff...... if you have a coolant problem you'd check the
| belts???
| | Wouldn't you tend to believe the sensor and simply verify the coolant
| flow
| | prior to questioning your instruments?
| |
| | CM
| |
| | "Jeff Morris" wrote in message
| | ...
| | | Oh! The ENGINE temperature!
| | |
| | | Even if there is a cooling problem, the engine provides a
significant
| | buffer, so
| | | if the fluctuation is fast, as in you actually see the needle move,
| its
| | probably
| | | a loose connection on the sensor, or some other such fault.
| | |
| | | If its a small engine with a large alternator it could be a
slipping
| belt.
| | I've
| | | never seen a case where the coolant flow went up and down
repeatedly
| but I
| | | suppose it could happen. Can a thermostat fail in this mode?
| |
| |
| |
| |
|
|

I put on the Speed Seals, but their primary virtue, the ability to quickly
inspect the impeller, is lost on the GMF engine because its mounted backwards
and almost impossible to see in. You can reach around and feel the impeller,
but its pretty quick to pull the two large mounting bolts. The biggest pain in
my setup is the input shutoff (what would be a seacock on a normal boat) is a
hard to turn valve on the saildrive that's just out of reach. I keep plugs
handy to seal the hose. In a crisis I could dislocate my shoulder and turn it
off, or dive in from the top to reach it, but usually the plug works just fine.

Since I have two engines, its starting to make sense to just have a spare pump
ready to go in.

"Capt. Mooron" wrote in message
...
All good Marc... but the face plate faces the engine I believe.

CM

"Marc" wrote in message
...
| 2 things. first , get a speed seal pump cover. 4 knurled thumb screws
| and the cover comes off, no tools.
|
| second, drill out the threaded holes in the pump and weld nuts to the
| forward side of the pump bracket. Insert the bolts through the pump
| from the rear , Pump is then removeable without removing the bracket.
|
| On Sat, 24 Jul 2004 23:26:28 -0300, "Capt. Mooron"
| wrote:
|
| I'm overjoyed I coaxed you into a proper reply to Bart's Question Jeff!
;-P
|
| Seriously... each step you illustrated was correct... and I don't have a
| gauge so I have to assume a warning buzzer. I've had a few clogged
intakes
| in time and a couple of bad impellers.... I concur with your assessment
of
| Yanmar Pumps!
|
| CM
|
|
| "Jeff Morris" wrote in message
| ...
| | The coolant flow can be checked by inspection almost immediately,
though a
| | partial clog can look OK and still send it into Overheat. Certainly
I'd
| look
| | there first if there was any significant change.
| |
| | However, if the gauge is moving quickly, like up and down in a matter
of
| | seconds, it can't be a real temperature issue, because the coolant
can't
| change
| | temperature that quickly. I've never had a temp sensor do that, but
I've
| seen
| | it from a faulty oil pressure sensor, and I've seen it from a dangling
| wire.
| |
| | When my heat exchanger was partially clogged the engine was more
sensitive
| the
| | overheating problems. I could tell within a few seconds if my wife
turned
| on
| | the microwave because the temp would start to creep up. Now the temp
is
| a bit
| | more stable, but I can't run the engine up to 3000 rpm if the
alternator
| is
| | fully loaded.
| |
| | BTW, last week I did have an overheat situation: within a minute after
| dropping
| | the mooring at Kittery, I noticed the starboard engine temp going up.
It
| put it
| | into neutral and asked my wife to check the water flow - there was
none.
| We
| | killed the engine and went back to the mooring (its sometimes nice to
have
| two
| | engines!). First I pulled the intake of the pump - full flow meaning
no
| intake
| | clog. Then I pulled the output hose off and asked my wife to "start"
with
| the
| | kill switch pulled - no flow. At that point I just pulled off the
water
| pump,
| | removed the cover (damn Yanmar mounted the pump on the GM's so that the
| cover
| | can't be reached without pulling the pump!). The impellor looked OK,
but
| my
| | wife asked how it worked so I spun the pulley to show her but the
impeller
| | didn't spin! I seems the impellor was spinning free on its hub. A
spare
| was
| | put in and we were underway again with a total delay of about 45
minutes.
| |
| |
| |
| |
| | "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message
| | ...
| | Good Grief Jeff...... if you have a coolant problem you'd check the
| belts???
| | Wouldn't you tend to believe the sensor and simply verify the coolant
| flow
| | prior to questioning your instruments?
| |
| | CM
| |
| | "Jeff Morris" wrote in message
| | ...
| | | Oh! The ENGINE temperature!
| | |
| | | Even if there is a cooling problem, the engine provides a
significant
| | buffer, so
| | | if the fluctuation is fast, as in you actually see the needle move,
| its
| | probably
| | | a loose connection on the sensor, or some other such fault.
| | |
| | | If its a small engine with a large alternator it could be a
slipping
| belt.
| | I've
| | | never seen a case where the coolant flow went up and down
repeatedly
| but I
| | | suppose it could happen. Can a thermostat fail in this mode?
| |
| |
| |
| |
|
|

Bottom line: If you replace the impeller every season, you get
proficient in doing it, the bolts don't get a chance to rust in, and
the chances of an impeller failure diminish greatly.

On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 09:23:23 -0300, "Capt. Mooron"
wrote:

All good Marc... but the face plate faces the engine I believe.

CM

"Marc" wrote in message
.. .
| 2 things. first , get a speed seal pump cover. 4 knurled thumb screws
| and the cover comes off, no tools.
|
| second, drill out the threaded holes in the pump and weld nuts to the
| forward side of the pump bracket. Insert the bolts through the pump
| from the rear , Pump is then removeable without removing the bracket.
|
| On Sat, 24 Jul 2004 23:26:28 -0300, "Capt. Mooron"
| wrote:
|
| I'm overjoyed I coaxed you into a proper reply to Bart's Question Jeff!
;-P
|
| Seriously... each step you illustrated was correct... and I don't have a
| gauge so I have to assume a warning buzzer. I've had a few clogged
intakes
| in time and a couple of bad impellers.... I concur with your assessment
of
| Yanmar Pumps!
|
| CM
|
|
| "Jeff Morris" wrote in message
| ...
| | The coolant flow can be checked by inspection almost immediately,
though a
| | partial clog can look OK and still send it into Overheat. Certainly
I'd
| look
| | there first if there was any significant change.
| |
| | However, if the gauge is moving quickly, like up and down in a matter
of
| | seconds, it can't be a real temperature issue, because the coolant
can't
| change
| | temperature that quickly. I've never had a temp sensor do that, but
I've
| seen
| | it from a faulty oil pressure sensor, and I've seen it from a dangling
| wire.
| |
| | When my heat exchanger was partially clogged the engine was more
sensitive
| the
| | overheating problems. I could tell within a few seconds if my wife
turned
| on
| | the microwave because the temp would start to creep up. Now the temp
is
| a bit
| | more stable, but I can't run the engine up to 3000 rpm if the
alternator
| is
| | fully loaded.
| |
| | BTW, last week I did have an overheat situation: within a minute after
| dropping
| | the mooring at Kittery, I noticed the starboard engine temp going up.
It
| put it
| | into neutral and asked my wife to check the water flow - there was
none.
| We
| | killed the engine and went back to the mooring (its sometimes nice to
have
| two
| | engines!). First I pulled the intake of the pump - full flow meaning
no
| intake
| | clog. Then I pulled the output hose off and asked my wife to "start"
with
| the
| | kill switch pulled - no flow. At that point I just pulled off the
water
| pump,
| | removed the cover (damn Yanmar mounted the pump on the GM's so that the
| cover
| | can't be reached without pulling the pump!). The impellor looked OK,
but
| my
| | wife asked how it worked so I spun the pulley to show her but the
impeller
| | didn't spin! I seems the impellor was spinning free on its hub. A
spare
| was
| | put in and we were underway again with a total delay of about 45
minutes.
| |
| |
| |
| |
| | "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message
| | ...
| | Good Grief Jeff...... if you have a coolant problem you'd check the
| belts???
| | Wouldn't you tend to believe the sensor and simply verify the coolant
| flow
| | prior to questioning your instruments?
| |
| | CM
| |
| | "Jeff Morris" wrote in message
| | ...
| | | Oh! The ENGINE temperature!
| | |
| | | Even if there is a cooling problem, the engine provides a
significant
| | buffer, so
| | | if the fluctuation is fast, as in you actually see the needle move,
| its
| | probably
| | | a loose connection on the sensor, or some other such fault.
| | |
| | | If its a small engine with a large alternator it could be a
slipping
| belt.
| | I've
| | | never seen a case where the coolant flow went up and down
repeatedly
| but I
| | | suppose it could happen. Can a thermostat fail in this mode?
| |
| |
| |
| |
|
|

Well ..... while I can concur with that schedule... I've found that pulling
the impeller when on seasonal dry dock...... I've tripled the useable life
span of the impeller.

I also remove the alternator and belts.Stored warm and dry for the winter.

Do you wrap the engine with a cover while on the hard for storage? I was
told to try it but my first concern would be condensation from the cover.
What do you think?

CM



"Marc" wrote in message
...
| Bottom line: If you replace the impeller every season, you get
| proficient in doing it, the bolts don't get a chance to rust in, and
| the chances of an impeller failure diminish greatly.
|
| On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 09:23:23 -0300, "Capt. Mooron"
| wrote:
|
| All good Marc... but the face plate faces the engine I believe.
|
| CM
|
| "Marc" wrote in message
| .. .
| | 2 things. first , get a speed seal pump cover. 4 knurled thumb screws
| | and the cover comes off, no tools.
| |
| | second, drill out the threaded holes in the pump and weld nuts to the
| | forward side of the pump bracket. Insert the bolts through the pump
| | from the rear , Pump is then removeable without removing the bracket.
| |
| | On Sat, 24 Jul 2004 23:26:28 -0300, "Capt. Mooron"
| | wrote:
| |
| | I'm overjoyed I coaxed you into a proper reply to Bart's Question
Jeff!
| ;-P
| |
| | Seriously... each step you illustrated was correct... and I don't have
a
| | gauge so I have to assume a warning buzzer. I've had a few clogged
| intakes
| | in time and a couple of bad impellers.... I concur with your
assessment
| of
| | Yanmar Pumps!
| |
| | CM
| |
| |
| | "Jeff Morris" wrote in message
| | ...
| | | The coolant flow can be checked by inspection almost immediately,
| though a
| | | partial clog can look OK and still send it into Overheat. Certainly
| I'd
| | look
| | | there first if there was any significant change.
| | |
| | | However, if the gauge is moving quickly, like up and down in a
matter
| of
| | | seconds, it can't be a real temperature issue, because the coolant
| can't
| | change
| | | temperature that quickly. I've never had a temp sensor do that, but
| I've
| | seen
| | | it from a faulty oil pressure sensor, and I've seen it from a
dangling
| | wire.
| | |
| | | When my heat exchanger was partially clogged the engine was more
| sensitive
| | the
| | | overheating problems. I could tell within a few seconds if my wife
| turned
| | on
| | | the microwave because the temp would start to creep up. Now the
temp
| is
| | a bit
| | | more stable, but I can't run the engine up to 3000 rpm if the
| alternator
| | is
| | | fully loaded.
| | |
| | | BTW, last week I did have an overheat situation: within a minute
after
| | dropping
| | | the mooring at Kittery, I noticed the starboard engine temp going
up.
| It
| | put it
| | | into neutral and asked my wife to check the water flow - there was
| none.
| | We
| | | killed the engine and went back to the mooring (its sometimes nice
to
| have
| | two
| | | engines!). First I pulled the intake of the pump - full flow
meaning
| no
| | intake
| | | clog. Then I pulled the output hose off and asked my wife to
"start"
| with
| | the
| | | kill switch pulled - no flow. At that point I just pulled off the
| water
| | pump,
| | | removed the cover (damn Yanmar mounted the pump on the GM's so that
the
| | cover
| | | can't be reached without pulling the pump!). The impellor looked
OK,
| but
| | my
| | | wife asked how it worked so I spun the pulley to show her but the
| impeller
| | | didn't spin! I seems the impellor was spinning free on its hub. A
| spare
| | was
| | | put in and we were underway again with a total delay of about 45
| minutes.
| | |
| | |
| | |
| | |
| | | "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message
| | | ...
| | | Good Grief Jeff...... if you have a coolant problem you'd check
the
| | belts???
| | | Wouldn't you tend to believe the sensor and simply verify the
coolant
| | flow
| | | prior to questioning your instruments?
| | |
| | | CM
| | |
| | | "Jeff Morris" wrote in message
| | | ...
| | | | Oh! The ENGINE temperature!
| | | |
| | | | Even if there is a cooling problem, the engine provides a
| significant
| | | buffer, so
| | | | if the fluctuation is fast, as in you actually see the needle
move,
| | its
| | | probably
| | | | a loose connection on the sensor, or some other such fault.
| | | |
| | | | If its a small engine with a large alternator it could be a
| slipping
| | belt.
| | | I've
| | | | never seen a case where the coolant flow went up and down
| repeatedly
| | but I
| | | | suppose it could happen. Can a thermostat fail in this mode?
| | |
| | |
| | |
| | |
| |
| |
|
|

I'm in NYC. I don't know if our winters compare in severity. I just
loosen the belts and leave them in place. Tape over the exhaust and
air intake, and spray the engine with wd 40. that , of course is after
the flushing, draining, antifreezing and oil change.

If the cover is an uninsulated tarp, I don't know if there would be
any condensation, but I don't know what good it would do. Your engine
is , after all, in a covered, tight box. Right?



On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 12:55:42 -0300, "Capt. Mooron"
wrote:

Well ..... while I can concur with that schedule... I've found that pulling
the impeller when on seasonal dry dock...... I've tripled the useable life
span of the impeller.

I also remove the alternator and belts.Stored warm and dry for the winter.

Do you wrap the engine with a cover while on the hard for storage? I was
told to try it but my first concern would be condensation from the cover.
What do you think?

CM



"Marc" wrote in message
.. .
| Bottom line: If you replace the impeller every season, you get
| proficient in doing it, the bolts don't get a chance to rust in, and
| the chances of an impeller failure diminish greatly.
|
| On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 09:23:23 -0300, "Capt. Mooron"
| wrote:
|
| All good Marc... but the face plate faces the engine I believe.
|
| CM
|
| "Marc" wrote in message
| .. .
| | 2 things. first , get a speed seal pump cover. 4 knurled thumb screws
| | and the cover comes off, no tools.
| |
| | second, drill out the threaded holes in the pump and weld nuts to the
| | forward side of the pump bracket. Insert the bolts through the pump
| | from the rear , Pump is then removeable without removing the bracket.
| |
| | On Sat, 24 Jul 2004 23:26:28 -0300, "Capt. Mooron"
| | wrote:
| |
| | I'm overjoyed I coaxed you into a proper reply to Bart's Question
Jeff!
| ;-P
| |
| | Seriously... each step you illustrated was correct... and I don't have
a
| | gauge so I have to assume a warning buzzer. I've had a few clogged
| intakes
| | in time and a couple of bad impellers.... I concur with your
assessment
| of
| | Yanmar Pumps!
| |
| | CM
| |
| |
| | "Jeff Morris" wrote in message
| | ...
| | | The coolant flow can be checked by inspection almost immediately,
| though a
| | | partial clog can look OK and still send it into Overheat. Certainly
| I'd
| | look
| | | there first if there was any significant change.
| | |
| | | However, if the gauge is moving quickly, like up and down in a
matter
| of
| | | seconds, it can't be a real temperature issue, because the coolant
| can't
| | change
| | | temperature that quickly. I've never had a temp sensor do that, but
| I've
| | seen
| | | it from a faulty oil pressure sensor, and I've seen it from a
dangling
| | wire.
| | |
| | | When my heat exchanger was partially clogged the engine was more
| sensitive
| | the
| | | overheating problems. I could tell within a few seconds if my wife
| turned
| | on
| | | the microwave because the temp would start to creep up. Now the
temp
| is
| | a bit
| | | more stable, but I can't run the engine up to 3000 rpm if the
| alternator
| | is
| | | fully loaded.
| | |
| | | BTW, last week I did have an overheat situation: within a minute
after
| | dropping
| | | the mooring at Kittery, I noticed the starboard engine temp going
up.
| It
| | put it
| | | into neutral and asked my wife to check the water flow - there was
| none.
| | We
| | | killed the engine and went back to the mooring (its sometimes nice
to
| have
| | two
| | | engines!). First I pulled the intake of the pump - full flow
meaning
| no
| | intake
| | | clog. Then I pulled the output hose off and asked my wife to
"start"
| with
| | the
| | | kill switch pulled - no flow. At that point I just pulled off the
| water
| | pump,
| | | removed the cover (damn Yanmar mounted the pump on the GM's so that
the
| | cover
| | | can't be reached without pulling the pump!). The impellor looked
OK,
| but
| | my
| | | wife asked how it worked so I spun the pulley to show her but the
| impeller
| | | didn't spin! I seems the impellor was spinning free on its hub. A
| spare
| | was
| | | put in and we were underway again with a total delay of about 45
| minutes.
| | |
| | |
| | |
| | |
| | | "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message
| | | ...
| | | Good Grief Jeff...... if you have a coolant problem you'd check
the
| | belts???
| | | Wouldn't you tend to believe the sensor and simply verify the
coolant
| | flow
| | | prior to questioning your instruments?
| | |
| | | CM
| | |
| | | "Jeff Morris" wrote in message
| | | ...
| | | | Oh! The ENGINE temperature!
| | | |
| | | | Even if there is a cooling problem, the engine provides a
| significant
| | | buffer, so
| | | | if the fluctuation is fast, as in you actually see the needle
move,
| | its
| | | probably
| | | | a loose connection on the sensor, or some other such fault.
| | | |
| | | | If its a small engine with a large alternator it could be a
| slipping
| | belt.
| | | I've
| | | | never seen a case where the coolant flow went up and down
| repeatedly
| | but I
| | | | suppose it could happen. Can a thermostat fail in this mode?
| | |
| | |
| | |
| | |
| |
| |
|
|

"Marc" wrote in message
...
Bottom line: If you replace the impeller every season, you get
proficient in doing it, the bolts don't get a chance to rust in,

Never Seize.