Obviously not.... you seem to be protesting the fact I've grasped the brass
ring.

CM

"Jonathan Ganz" wrote in message
...
| Hey... I got there first!

On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 01:00:46 GMT, "Bart Senior"
wrote this crap:

Your temp gauge is fluxuating.

What is the most likely cause? [1 pt]



The temperature is going up and down.





Pathetic Earthlings! No one can save you now!

The coolant flow can be checked by inspection almost immediately, though a
partial clog can look OK and still send it into Overheat. Certainly I'd look
there first if there was any significant change.

However, if the gauge is moving quickly, like up and down in a matter of
seconds, it can't be a real temperature issue, because the coolant can't change
temperature that quickly. I've never had a temp sensor do that, but I've seen
it from a faulty oil pressure sensor, and I've seen it from a dangling wire.

When my heat exchanger was partially clogged the engine was more sensitive the
overheating problems. I could tell within a few seconds if my wife turned on
the microwave because the temp would start to creep up. Now the temp is a bit
more stable, but I can't run the engine up to 3000 rpm if the alternator is
fully loaded.

BTW, last week I did have an overheat situation: within a minute after dropping
the mooring at Kittery, I noticed the starboard engine temp going up. It put it
into neutral and asked my wife to check the water flow - there was none. We
killed the engine and went back to the mooring (its sometimes nice to have two
engines!). First I pulled the intake of the pump - full flow meaning no intake
clog. Then I pulled the output hose off and asked my wife to "start" with the
kill switch pulled - no flow. At that point I just pulled off the water pump,
removed the cover (damn Yanmar mounted the pump on the GM's so that the cover
can't be reached without pulling the pump!). The impellor looked OK, but my
wife asked how it worked so I spun the pulley to show her but the impeller
didn't spin! I seems the impellor was spinning free on its hub. A spare was
put in and we were underway again with a total delay of about 45 minutes.




"Capt. Mooron" wrote in message
...
Good Grief Jeff...... if you have a coolant problem you'd check the belts???
Wouldn't you tend to believe the sensor and simply verify the coolant flow
prior to questioning your instruments?

CM

"Jeff Morris" wrote in message
...
| Oh! The ENGINE temperature!
|
| Even if there is a cooling problem, the engine provides a significant
buffer, so
| if the fluctuation is fast, as in you actually see the needle move, its
probably
| a loose connection on the sensor, or some other such fault.
|
| If its a small engine with a large alternator it could be a slipping belt.
I've
| never seen a case where the coolant flow went up and down repeatedly but I
| suppose it could happen. Can a thermostat fail in this mode?

I'm overjoyed I coaxed you into a proper reply to Bart's Question Jeff! ;-P

Seriously... each step you illustrated was correct... and I don't have a
gauge so I have to assume a warning buzzer. I've had a few clogged intakes
in time and a couple of bad impellers.... I concur with your assessment of
Yanmar Pumps!

CM


"Jeff Morris" wrote in message
...
| The coolant flow can be checked by inspection almost immediately, though a
| partial clog can look OK and still send it into Overheat. Certainly I'd
look
| there first if there was any significant change.
|
| However, if the gauge is moving quickly, like up and down in a matter of
| seconds, it can't be a real temperature issue, because the coolant can't
change
| temperature that quickly. I've never had a temp sensor do that, but I've
seen
| it from a faulty oil pressure sensor, and I've seen it from a dangling
wire.
|
| When my heat exchanger was partially clogged the engine was more sensitive
the
| overheating problems. I could tell within a few seconds if my wife turned
on
| the microwave because the temp would start to creep up. Now the temp is
a bit
| more stable, but I can't run the engine up to 3000 rpm if the alternator
is
| fully loaded.
|
| BTW, last week I did have an overheat situation: within a minute after
dropping
| the mooring at Kittery, I noticed the starboard engine temp going up. It
put it
| into neutral and asked my wife to check the water flow - there was none.
We
| killed the engine and went back to the mooring (its sometimes nice to have
two
| engines!). First I pulled the intake of the pump - full flow meaning no
intake
| clog. Then I pulled the output hose off and asked my wife to "start" with
the
| kill switch pulled - no flow. At that point I just pulled off the water
pump,
| removed the cover (damn Yanmar mounted the pump on the GM's so that the
cover
| can't be reached without pulling the pump!). The impellor looked OK, but
my
| wife asked how it worked so I spun the pulley to show her but the impeller
| didn't spin! I seems the impellor was spinning free on its hub. A spare
was
| put in and we were underway again with a total delay of about 45 minutes.
|
|
|
|
| "Capt. Mooron" wrote in message
| ...
| Good Grief Jeff...... if you have a coolant problem you'd check the
belts???
| Wouldn't you tend to believe the sensor and simply verify the coolant
flow
| prior to questioning your instruments?
|
| CM
|
| "Jeff Morris" wrote in message
| ...
| | Oh! The ENGINE temperature!
| |
| | Even if there is a cooling problem, the engine provides a significant
| buffer, so
| | if the fluctuation is fast, as in you actually see the needle move,
its
| probably
| | a loose connection on the sensor, or some other such fault.
| |
| | If its a small engine with a large alternator it could be a slipping
belt.
| I've
| | never seen a case where the coolant flow went up and down repeatedly
but I
| | suppose it could happen. Can a thermostat fail in this mode?
|
|
|
|

....and you back up to a mooring stern first... Bwahahahahahahahaha!!!

The Martha Stewart of the sailing world that places a cup of bleach in the
bilge!!

Bwahahahahahahahahaaaa

CM

"Horvath" wrote in message
...
| On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 01:00:46 GMT, "Bart Senior"
| wrote this crap:
|
| Your temp gauge is fluxuating.
|
| What is the most likely cause? [1 pt]
|
|
|
| The temperature is going up and down.
|
|
|
|
|
| Pathetic Earthlings! No one can save you now!

Sigh....

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

"Capt. Mooron" wrote in message
...
Obviously not.... you seem to be protesting the fact I've grasped the
brass
ring.

CM

"Jonathan Ganz" wrote in message
...
| Hey... I got there first!

Good Grief CM, since you gave it away, CM's real
name is Charlie Brown. They started calling him
Charlie Moron when he was little and it stuck.

Capt. Mooron wrote

Good Grief Jeff...... if you have a coolant problem you'd check the
belts???
Wouldn't you tend to believe the sensor and simply verify the coolant flow
prior to questioning your instruments?

CM

"Jeff Morris" wrote

| Oh! The ENGINE temperature!
|
| Even if there is a cooling problem, the engine provides a significant
buffer, so
| if the fluctuation is fast, as in you actually see the needle move, its
probably
| a loose connection on the sensor, or some other such fault.
|
| If its a small engine with a large alternator it could be a slipping
belt.
I've
| never seen a case where the coolant flow went up and down repeatedly but
I
| suppose it could happen. Can a thermostat fail in this mode?

I thought it was a brilliant answer. Way to go Horass!

Bart, you should give him a point.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

"Capt. Mooron" wrote in message
...
...and you back up to a mooring stern first... Bwahahahahahahahaha!!!

The Martha Stewart of the sailing world that places a cup of bleach in the
bilge!!

Bwahahahahahahahahaaaa

CM

"Horvath" wrote in message
...
| On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 01:00:46 GMT, "Bart Senior"
| wrote this crap:
|
| Your temp gauge is fluxuating.
|
| What is the most likely cause? [1 pt]
|
|
|
| The temperature is going up and down.
|
|
|
|
|
| Pathetic Earthlings! No one can save you now!

1 point for you Jeff.

The correct answer is Coolant level. When the coolant is low
it can steam and vary the sensor reading.

I had a problem with overheating on a freinds boat on Wednesday.
I was on a tight schedule to get some kids to a class they were taking
and had to rely on the engine to meet schedule, but didn't quite make
it..

As I reconstructed the problem, the strainer which consisted of a
metal basket with its strap hoop handle was installed improperly. My
guess is the stainless strap partially blocked the raw water intake. It
worked fine until the engine was rev'ed up a bit where upon the flow
was not satisfactory. In and out of the slip under power would not
reveal the problem.

Anyway, the engine overheated and thrashed the impeller, or perhaps
vice versa. The coolant boiled off and needed to be replaced.

The fix was to bend the strainer strap into an "M" shape, because I
could not tighten it enough to close the cap--well perhaps I could have,
but I was worried about breaking the studs holding it down. That
would have meant a new strainer.

The impeller installed fine until I had to install the circlip which
sprung off and disappeared--I never found it. A friend ran one
up to me. I found all the impeller pieces except one which may
turn up in the heat exchanger. I'll let the owner deal with that
one.

Jeff, your impeller problem is weird. I didn't think the impeller
could spin on it's shaft. Didn't it have a keyed bushing of some
sort?

Bart

Jeff Morris wrote

The coolant flow can be checked by inspection almost immediately, though a
partial clog can look OK and still send it into Overheat. Certainly I'd
look
there first if there was any significant change.

However, if the gauge is moving quickly, like up and down in a matter of
seconds, it can't be a real temperature issue, because the coolant can't
change
temperature that quickly. I've never had a temp sensor do that, but I've
seen
it from a faulty oil pressure sensor, and I've seen it from a dangling
wire.

When my heat exchanger was partially clogged the engine was more sensitive
the
overheating problems. I could tell within a few seconds if my wife turned
on
the microwave because the temp would start to creep up. Now the temp is
a bit
more stable, but I can't run the engine up to 3000 rpm if the alternator
is
fully loaded.

BTW, last week I did have an overheat situation: within a minute after
dropping
the mooring at Kittery, I noticed the starboard engine temp going up. It
put it
into neutral and asked my wife to check the water flow - there was none.
We
killed the engine and went back to the mooring (its sometimes nice to have
two
engines!). First I pulled the intake of the pump - full flow meaning no
intake
clog. Then I pulled the output hose off and asked my wife to "start" with
the
kill switch pulled - no flow. At that point I just pulled off the water
pump,
removed the cover (damn Yanmar mounted the pump on the GM's so that the
cover
can't be reached without pulling the pump!). The impellor looked OK, but
my
wife asked how it worked so I spun the pulley to show her but the impeller
didn't spin! I seems the impellor was spinning free on its hub. A spare
was
put in and we were underway again with a total delay of about 45 minutes.


"Capt. Mooron" wrote

Good Grief Jeff...... if you have a coolant problem you'd check the
belts???
Wouldn't you tend to believe the sensor and simply verify the coolant
flow
prior to questioning your instruments?


"Jeff Morris" wrote

| Oh! The ENGINE temperature!
|
| Even if there is a cooling problem, the engine provides a significant
buffer, so
| if the fluctuation is fast, as in you actually see the needle move,
its
probably
| a loose connection on the sensor, or some other such fault.
|
| If its a small engine with a large alternator it could be a slipping
belt.
I've
| never seen a case where the coolant flow went up and down repeatedly
but I
| suppose it could happen. Can a thermostat fail in this mode?

North or South of the equator?
S/V Express 30 "Ringmaster"
"Trains are a winter sport"