1/8th inch thick plates will suffice in S/S on your sized vessel. Use a
thick epoxy to "back" the plates onto a curved surface.. slightly tighten
the plate so the uncured epoxy

Care to actually aid the fellow and tell him what kind of epoxy?
Sheesh!

RB

CANDChelp wrote:
1/8th inch thick plates will suffice in S/S on your sized vessel. Use
a thick epoxy to "back" the plates onto a curved surface.. slightly
tighten the plate so the uncured epoxy

Care to actually aid the fellow and tell him what kind of epoxy?

Would a 'marine' epoxy be a suitable material? One with 'thick' written on
the tin? (As opposed to 'thin and runny'.) By 'thick', I take it that Mooron
means something that would be suitable as a filler, given that the idea is
to fill the gap between a flat plate and a slightly curved ceiling.

Anyway, what should I do about the paint/antifoul on the rudder? Paint
first, feather the edge and then antifoul over it, or antifoul first,
feather, and paint over the edge of the antifoul?


--
Wally
www.makearatherlonglinkthattakesyounowhere.com
Things are always clearer in the cold, post-upload light.

"Wally" wrote in message

| Anyway, what should I do about the paint/antifoul on the rudder? Paint
| first, feather the edge and then antifoul over it, or antifoul first,
| feather, and paint over the edge of the antifoul?

Since I'm not experienced with the type of paints you are using... that
would be difficult to advise on Wally. Generally I would try feather, paint
and antifoul... in that order. How thick is the paint or it's application
that would suggest the requirement for feathering? Maybe several layers of
thin, diluted applications onto a feathered surface will get the required
results.

CM

Capt. Mooron wrote:
"Wally" wrote in message

Since I'm not experienced with the type of paints you are using...
that would be difficult to advise on Wally. Generally I would try
feather, paint and antifoul... in that order. How thick is the paint
or it's application that would suggest the requirement for
feathering? Maybe several layers of thin, diluted applications onto a
feathered surface will get the required results.

It's not so much the feathering that's the question (I reckon three coats of
each), but whether I should paint to a little below the waterline first,
then antifoul on top, or antifoul a little above the waterline first, then
paint. I reckon paint first, then antifoul, but thought it would be wise to
ask.

I don't think there's a problem with the anti-foul going on top of the
paint, although I could try a little test first - I had originally just
sanded the old paint smooth to prep for priming, but, when I went to wash
the dust off by wiping down with thinners proper to the primer, I found that
the old paint was softening (so I took it back to the wood).


--
Wally
www.makearatherlonglinkthattakesyounowhere.com
Things are always clearer in the cold, post-upload light.

Old rule of painting... never apply a lacquer paint over an oil paint. The
opposite is just fine. If the thinner will thin both of the types of
paint... don't prep with thinner... use alcohol. Generally if the antifoul
is ablative it must go over the paint.

CM

"Wally" wrote in message
...
| Capt. Mooron wrote:
| "Wally" wrote in message
|
| Since I'm not experienced with the type of paints you are using...
| that would be difficult to advise on Wally. Generally I would try
| feather, paint and antifoul... in that order. How thick is the paint
| or it's application that would suggest the requirement for
| feathering? Maybe several layers of thin, diluted applications onto a
| feathered surface will get the required results.
|
| It's not so much the feathering that's the question (I reckon three coats
of
| each), but whether I should paint to a little below the waterline first,
| then antifoul on top, or antifoul a little above the waterline first, then
| paint. I reckon paint first, then antifoul, but thought it would be wise
to
| ask.
|
| I don't think there's a problem with the anti-foul going on top of the
| paint, although I could try a little test first - I had originally just
| sanded the old paint smooth to prep for priming, but, when I went to wash
| the dust off by wiping down with thinners proper to the primer, I found
that
| the old paint was softening (so I took it back to the wood).
|
|
| --
| Wally
| www.makearatherlonglinkthattakesyounowhere.com
| Things are always clearer in the cold, post-upload light.
|
|
|

Would a 'marine' epoxy be a suitable material? One with 'thick' written on
the tin? (As opposed to 'thin and runny'.)

Good god.

RB

CANDChelp wrote:
Would a 'marine' epoxy be a suitable material? One with 'thick'
written on the tin? (As opposed to 'thin and runny'.)

Good god.

Oh, should I get one with an irony constitution?


--
Wally
www.makearatherlonglinkthattakesyounowhere.com
Things are always clearer in the cold, post-upload light.

Capt. Mooron wrote:
Old rule of painting... never apply a lacquer paint over an oil
paint. The opposite is just fine.

Aha! I'm aware of that (being a painter of pictures), but have no real idea
of what's in the boat paints.


If the thinner will thin both of
the types of paint... don't prep with thinner... use alcohol.

I was thinking that the same stuff might be in the primer, which might lead
to the primer itself weakening the substrate. Still, the belt sander got the
old paint off in very short order.


Generally if the antifoul is ablative it must go over the paint.

It's described as a hard, self-polishing antifoul (which, I guess, means
that it ablates slowly). Aye, methinks I'll go for antifoul over the paint.
Thanks for the advice.


--
Wally
www.makearatherlonglinkthattakesyounowhere.com
Things are always clearer in the cold, post-upload light.

Use West System epoxy, they sell it in two parts, an epoxy and the hardener.
They sell different types of epoxy for different applications, don't know
offhand which epoxy you need. They also sell thickener, you can make the
epoxy whatever consistency you like, from runny to thicker than peanut
butter. Don't be put off by the cost, the stuff has a fairly long shelf
life, you've indicated that you have at least one other use for it on this
particular project, filling the holes. Don't buy the kits in the small
pouches buy the small cans.
http://www.westsystem.com/

John Cairns

"Wally" wrote in message
...
Would a 'marine' epoxy be a suitable material? One with 'thick' written
on
the tin? (As opposed to 'thin and runny'.) By 'thick', I take it that
Mooron
means something that would be suitable as a filler, given that the idea is
to fill the gap between a flat plate and a slightly curved ceiling.
--
Wally
www.makearatherlonglinkthattakesyounowhere.com
Things are always clearer in the cold, post-upload light.