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#1
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Questions from a newbie
Peter wrote:
It is interesting that you teach pawlata first.... I don't anymore for the reason that people seem to rely on the leverage, and that turns into brute force with the screw roll. Makes sense, as that's what I did... Some people have learned starting with a float assisted hand roll, which really helps tune the hip flick first thing. OTOH it can be a bit dispiriting at first as it's harder, and in my case the last time I tried I put my back out and needed two visits to the osteopath so I'm not personally that keen on practising that! OTOH I'm not really clued enough to teach anything else, and will usually only try to teach when I'm all that's available there and then. Will try an emphasize a good pawlata with prominent hip flick before moving onto screws in future though! Reverse Screw: the thing I did wrong for ages is I was pulling the blade down in the water, rather than sweeping it out. Having set up and flipped the boat I just couldn't decide what I was meant to be doing *at all*. It wasn't doing the wrong thing, just going "errrrrrrrrr?", resetting for a P and coming up that way instead! Down rather than Out seems to be a common problem for a lot of people doing any sweeping roll though, AFAICT from our pool sessions. roll. I still don't like back deck types of rolls, but they definitely have their uses. I was just curious really. Main project now is getting screws on my "bad side" just as good as the other and at a point where "default roll" is the best side in any given situation, rather than current right shoulder forwards side. Also working so that any degree of feather or different control hands aren't a problem (often paddle unfeathered on the sea if there's no headwind, if there is I sometimes swap control side thanks to a variable joint shaft and blades that plug into either end). Slowly getting there... Pete. -- Peter Clinch University of Dundee Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Medical Physics, Ninewells Hospital Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK net http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/ |
#2
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Questions from a newbie
On Fri, 14 Nov 2003 16:19:49 +0000, Peter Clinch
wrote: Peter wrote: It is interesting that you teach pawlata first.... I don't anymore for the reason that people seem to rely on the leverage, and that turns into brute force with the screw roll. Makes sense, as that's what I did... Some people have learned starting with a float assisted hand roll, which really helps tune the hip flick first thing. OTOH it can be a bit dispiriting at first as it's harder, and in my case the last time I tried I put my back out and needed two visits to the osteopath so I'm not personally that keen on practising that! OTOH I'm not really clued enough to teach anything else, and will usually only try to teach when I'm all that's available there and then. Will try an emphasize a good pawlata with prominent hip flick before moving onto screws in future though! Reverse Screw: the thing I did wrong for ages is I was pulling the blade down in the water, rather than sweeping it out. Having set up and flipped the boat I just couldn't decide what I was meant to be doing *at all*. It wasn't doing the wrong thing, just going "errrrrrrrrr?", resetting for a P and coming up that way instead! Down rather than Out seems to be a common problem for a lot of people doing any sweeping roll though, AFAICT from our pool sessions. roll. I still don't like back deck types of rolls, but they definitely have their uses. I was just curious really. Main project now is getting screws on my "bad side" just as good as the other and at a point where "default roll" is the best side in any given situation, rather than current right shoulder forwards side. Also working so that any degree of feather or different control hands aren't a problem (often paddle unfeathered on the sea if there's no headwind, if there is I sometimes swap control side thanks to a variable joint shaft and blades that plug into either end). Slowly getting there... Not quite age related but on the subject of teaching rolls... There we were, four adult Coaches teaching " Star/ 3 Star to roll. By chance we had an extra non-paddler in the pool. First time in a kayak. My son, not then a coach and still only 17 taught this lad to roll in five minutes. He couldn't paddle in a straight line, but boy could he roll.... Ewan Scott http://www.claytonwestscouts.org.uk |
#3
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Questions from a newbie
There we were, four adult Coaches teaching " Star/ 3 Star to roll. By chance we had an extra non-paddler in the pool. First time in a kayak. My son, not then a coach and still only 17 taught this lad to roll in five minutes. He couldn't paddle in a straight line, but boy could he roll.... Ewan Scott http://www.claytonwestscouts.org.uk That relates to my experiences... The easiest people to teach rolling to are the ones with no preconception of what should be happening. The rest.... I try to take their minds off the rolling by shouting something bizarre as they capsize.... "think chocolate" seems to work quite well... they seem to roll up thinking what the hell was the coach on about... result. P -- -- Add "bypass" to subject line to email this address. All others rejected. |
#4
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Questions from a newbie
I was going to stay out of this as I don't coach anymore, but:
I have found that teaching the screw roll is more effective in the past because: It relies on technique, you can't bypass with brute force (well it's a lot harder to anyway) You don't need to change your hand position so with ovalled looms you can feel if the paddle is oriented properly The need to move hands makes the pawlata a poor choice for river running and I used to coach specifically towards river running I always found it just as fast to teach and there is no need to relearn from pawlata to screw roll (because most people don't use full techinique with a pawlata) I have a feeling Peter Clinch is mainly involved with sea kayaking, where the paddler is usually less vulnerable and can take their time setting up for a Pawlata, so I didn't feel it necessary to convert him to the screw roll cause Guiding the paddle (and making sure the pupil understands that they shouldn't need to use a lot of force against your support) can be a very good way to introduce the technique as opposed to brute force, because you prevent it going down and sweep it out they should get the feel for the idea that round rather than down is the secret. As for reverse screw rolling my tips a Lay back and bring the wrist of your rolling hand to your forehead with the blade face pointing forward (similar to bow rudder position). Before you capsize, rotate from your waist towards the side the paddle is on - chances are you will capsize as you do this. Once upside down, take a moment and make sure you have rotated as far as you can in this direction, your head should be turned in the paddle direction and your cheek will be near the surface Keep your wrist against your forehead Sit up in the boat, but keep the paddle on the surface as you do so. To do this you need to untwist from your waist - the key is to open your eyes and make sure your cheek is still just below the surface as you do this - keeping that wrist against your head. The act of sitting up will both sweep the paddle and give you most of the hip-flick you require at the right time, you will be sitting slightly forward at the point where you need to let the wrist wander from the forehead for the final pull/flick. If you find you need to do a foreward sweep at this point, do it! A reverse roll with a forward sweep at the end is still faster and in many cases safer than a forward roll, anyone that tells you you HAVE to get rid of the forward sweep is talking out of their backside. Obviously if you can master finishing fully forward ready to do a power stroke you will get a major advantage on whitewater, but a safe reliable roll is the most important thing to worry about. YES, I will always maintain that reverse screw rolling is safer - anyone arguing against it does it very differently and probably with less success. If you reread my tips, you fill find that your head is very close to the surface and your face is sideways to upwards so very much less vulnerable than forward. If you lock the wrist against your forehead, you would have to rip your head off before you could hyperextend your shoulder and dislocate it. JIM |
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