Walt wrote:
donquijote1954 wrote:
In 4 lbs? Is this the same as Danforth?

http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catal...=SearchResults

Yes, that is a Danforth anchor. You don't need a big one for a canoe.

//Walt

Good. I wonder though if this, which sells on requiring 70% less rope,
is worth the price difference...

http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catal...=SearchResults

Having 30' rather than 100' makes sense. Is there something to have the
rope neat and untangled?

donquijote1954 wrote:

Good. I wonder though if this, which sells on requiring 70% less rope,
is worth the price difference...

http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catal...=SearchResults

I've never seen one of those in action, but I'd be skeptical. As a rule
of thumb you want about a 7:1 scope for an anchor. This much scope
ensures that the pull on the anchor is always horizontal, never
vertical. A danforth anchor is designed to hold with a horizontal pull,
but come free with a vertical pull - that's how you un-anchor yourself
when it's time to get going again.

This thing claims to hold with up to a 45 degree pull. Seems to me that
if this is actually true (as I say, I'm skeptical) it might make it hard
to retrieve.


Having 30' rather than 100' makes sense. Is there something to have the
rope neat and untangled?

Yes. Learn to coil lines. And don't buy cheap-ass lines that hockle
and tie themselves in knots.

BTW, you should probably have a throw line that's 100' long and floats.
I'd invest in this long before spending money on an anchor.

//Walt

Walt wrote:
BTW, you should probably have a throw line that's 100' long and floats.
I'd invest in this long before spending money on an anchor.

//Walt

Hey, I already got a poly rope that floats (but bought it for another
reason: the thing to roll it up on). Now what?