I need advice for a Spring paddling trip in the Ozarks. My paddling
buddies and I usually canoe in the northwoods (Ontario or Upper
Penninsula of Michigan) or kayak in the Gulf of Mexico. A river trip is
something new for us to plan and I need some help.

Our criteria are pretty simple:
- Ozarks region (paddlers are coming from Ohio and Texas)
- Clear (or at least clean) water
- Gravel/sand/rock bottomed riverbed. Mud-banked rivers suck. That's
all we have in Ohio.
- Scenic vistas. Cliffs, bluffs, caves, etc. better than large, flat,
open spaces.
- Long enough river to paddle for 6-7 days
- Minimal civil infrastructure. We'd like to see/hear zero cars for at
least a few days.
(do any other these rivers flow through towns?)
- Good availability of shoreline camping but not at road accessible
campsites/campgrounds.
- Minimal local rental traffic (meaning avoiding the most heavily used
stretches of river)

The rivers I am looking at are the Current and Eleven Point in Missouri
and the Buffalo in Arkansas. Based on my criteria stated above, does
any one river stand out as the best choice?

I like the clear/cold water and springs of the Current River but I am
beginning to get the impression that it is scenic but not very wild.

Also, any recommendations on rental liveries/shuttle services? Who has
good rental rates and nice canoes? Some of us don't own canoes and will
have to rent.

If you paddle the rivers in this region, do you paddle a poly or
fiberglass/kevlar boat? Is it possible to paddle a kevlar boat on these
rivers without trashing it completely. A few scrapes are no big deal
but I don't want to punch holes in my canoe either.

Links to trip reports, photo albums, and subjective opinions are all
welcome. I've been Googling the subject for a day or so now and I'm
finding more commercial livery info than personal trip descriptions.

This is a once-a-year, week-long trip for me and I have to make every
day count. If you had 6-7 days to paddle, where would you go in the
Ozarks?

Thanks.

Greg Smith

(remove bird to reply via email)

Greg, I seldom post to these boards, but I found your inquiry compelling
because our experiences and tastes in wilderness canoeing seem very similar.
I, too, am from Ohio and have paddled for many years on wilderness rivers in
nothern Ontario and have done a fair amount of sea kayaking on various
coasts and the Great Lakes. However, my favorite all around scenic river
remains the Buffalo River in Arkansas. I have not paddled the other two
rivers you mention, although I have heard and read much about them. All I
can say is that the spectacular scenery along the Buffalo will not
disappoint you.
I have paddled the river, or portions of it, around 7 times, usually in
the early spring. I have another 8-day trip planned for late April of this
year. I always use Buffalo Outdoor Center in Ponca for either a shuttle or
canoe rental. They are very professional and knowledgeable and, if you make
a request, you might even be able to snag one of their vintage original Blue
Hole canoes, although most of their fleet is now, I believe, made up of Old
Town Discoveries. Check their website (I assume you have already seen it).
The river is very busy in the upper canyon on spring weekends, so I have
generally tried to start a trip on a Friday moring or Monday morning.
The water is relatively clear, but has a green cast to it (not murky,
but an attractive green). I strongly reccommend that you begin around Ponca
and experience the upper canyon despite its popularity because it is the
most beautiful part of the river and averages about 4 rapids per mile. A
good 5-day trip is from Ponca to Tyler Bend. From Ponca to the end of the
river at Buffalo City is about 126 miles and would normally take 7 to 10
days, depending on how hard you plan to push. The rapids are mostly class 1
with a few marginal class 2 along the way. If your party is not
particularly experienced with whitewater, I would not be too concerned.
This is not a technical river and a lot of novices go down it every
year.Compared to Ontario rivers such as the White, Missinaibi, Missisaugi,
Ground Hog, Chapleau, Steel, etc., it is a very easy river--no portaging, no
serious scouting required, and no hull piercing rocks. You would propably
be ok with a Kevlar canoe, but, depending on the water level, you may drag
bottom and you will undoubtedly hit a few rocks. I paddle a 25-year-old ABS
Old Town Tripper and I think an ABS or plastic (e.g, the Discovery) boat is
best for whitewater paddling. There are numerous gravel bars to camp on, but
if there is heavy rain, make sure you camp on much higher ground. Two years
ago, in the upper canyon, the river rose around 20 feet and I was camped at
25. It is not a true wilderness river--you will see a few people and there
are a few minor road crossings and periodic established campgrounds, but it
has a wilderness feel to it if you choose your river bank campsites wisely
(i.e., a suitable distance from road access and established campgrounds).
It is like Canada without the bugs and portaging and with a current that
makes paddling easier.
The web site for the national river has a lot of good information
including a map. There are also 2 very good waterproof Trails Illustrated
maps available for the east and west portions of the river that also show
the hiking trails. Let me know if you have any questions. Good luck. -
Larry

"Greg Smith" wrote in message
...
I need advice for a Spring paddling trip in the Ozarks. My paddling
buddies and I usually canoe in the northwoods (Ontario or Upper
Penninsula of Michigan) or kayak in the Gulf of Mexico. A river trip is
something new for us to plan and I need some help.

Our criteria are pretty simple:
- Ozarks region (paddlers are coming from Ohio and Texas)
- Clear (or at least clean) water
- Gravel/sand/rock bottomed riverbed. Mud-banked rivers suck. That's
all we have in Ohio.
- Scenic vistas. Cliffs, bluffs, caves, etc. better than large, flat,
open spaces.
- Long enough river to paddle for 6-7 days
- Minimal civil infrastructure. We'd like to see/hear zero cars for at
least a few days.
(do any other these rivers flow through towns?)
- Good availability of shoreline camping but not at road accessible
campsites/campgrounds.
- Minimal local rental traffic (meaning avoiding the most heavily used
stretches of river)

The rivers I am looking at are the Current and Eleven Point in Missouri
and the Buffalo in Arkansas. Based on my criteria stated above, does
any one river stand out as the best choice?

I like the clear/cold water and springs of the Current River but I am
beginning to get the impression that it is scenic but not very wild.

Also, any recommendations on rental liveries/shuttle services? Who has
good rental rates and nice canoes? Some of us don't own canoes and will
have to rent.

If you paddle the rivers in this region, do you paddle a poly or
fiberglass/kevlar boat? Is it possible to paddle a kevlar boat on these
rivers without trashing it completely. A few scrapes are no big deal
but I don't want to punch holes in my canoe either.

Links to trip reports, photo albums, and subjective opinions are all
welcome. I've been Googling the subject for a day or so now and I'm
finding more commercial livery info than personal trip descriptions.

This is a once-a-year, week-long trip for me and I have to make every
day count. If you had 6-7 days to paddle, where would you go in the
Ozarks?

Thanks.

Greg Smith

(remove bird to reply via email)

"Greg Smith" wrote
I need advice snip Our criteria are pretty simple:
- Ozarks region (paddlers are coming from Ohio and Texas)
- Clear (or at least clean) water
- Gravel/sand/rock bottomed riverbed. Mud-banked rivers
suck. That's
all we have in Ohio.
- Scenic vistas. Cliffs, bluffs, caves, etc. better than
large, flat,
open spaces.
- Long enough river to paddle for 6-7 days
- Minimal civil infrastructure. We'd like to see/hear
zero cars for at
least a few days.
(do any other these rivers flow through towns?)
- Good availability of shoreline camping but not at road
accessible
campsites/campgrounds.
- Minimal local rental traffic (meaning avoiding the most
heavily used
stretches of river)

The rivers I am looking at are the Current and Eleven
Point in Missouri
and the Buffalo in Arkansas. Based on my criteria stated
above, does
any one river stand out as the best choice?

I like the clear/cold water and springs of the Current
River but I am
beginning to get the impression that it is scenic but not
very wild.

Also, any recommendations on rental liveries/shuttle
services? Who has
good rental rates and nice canoes? Some of us don't own
canoes and will
have to rent.

If you paddle the rivers in this region, do you paddle a
poly or
fiberglass/kevlar boat? Is it possible to paddle a kevlar
boat on these
rivers without trashing it completely. A few scrapes are
no big deal
but I don't want to punch holes in my canoe either.

Links to trip reports, photo albums, and subjective
opinions are all
welcome. I've been Googling the subject for a day or so
now and I'm
finding more commercial livery info than personal trip
descriptions.

This is a once-a-year, week-long trip for me and I have to
make every
day count. If you had 6-7 days to paddle, where would you
go in the
Ozarks?

Thanks.

Greg Smith

I recommend the Buffalo River in Arkansas as the river of
choice based on your criteria. I made a few trips on this
river during spring break in March. in late March the
redbuds are generally blooming.

These rivers have mostly gravel bottoms and are clear unless
near flood-stage. The Current is the most spring-fed and is
better suited than the others in summer and fall. In the
spring, having too much water is commonly more of a problem
than not having enough. Since you are planning to come a
long way, you may wish to have a backup plan. If the
Buffalo R. is too high, the Current R. may be okay.

The Current R, has more access via primitive roads than does
the Buffalo R. Van Buren, a small town is on the lower part
of the river.

Along the Buffalo R. there are some very scenic side trips
that you may want to leave time for in your trip plans: Goat
trail on Big Bluff, Hemmed-In Hollow, The Narrows.

I don't have much experience with any of the outfitters, but
one on the upper Buffalo is http://www.buffaloriver.com/
They give the river levels at the old Ponca bridge.

I paddle various boats (Royalex), mostly on the Current,
Jacks Fork, and Eleven Point Rivers. My newest boat is a
Mad River Horizon 18 (Kevlar). I would take it on any of
these rivers so long as there is enough water. The gravel
does scratch the bottoms.

Mississippi Dan

Greg,
I was on the Jacks fork and Current last week. Both are great
paddeling.
We did Blue Spring to Rymers, and Bay Creek to Alley Spring on the
Jacks Fork, (2 day trips) and Baptist to Cedar Grove, Cedar Grove to
Akers, Akers to Pulltite, and Pulltite to Round Spring over 4 day
trips.
I think the Bay Cr to Alley is the prettiest section, on Jacks.
Dan Dunphy

to On Fri, 29 Oct 2004 21:45:04 GMT, Greg Smith
wrote:

I need advice for a Spring paddling trip in the Ozarks. My paddling
buddies and I usually canoe in the northwoods (Ontario or Upper
Penninsula of Michigan) or kayak in the Gulf of Mexico. A river trip is
something new for us to plan and I need some help.

Our criteria are pretty simple:
- Ozarks region (paddlers are coming from Ohio and Texas)
- Clear (or at least clean) water
- Gravel/sand/rock bottomed riverbed. Mud-banked rivers suck. That's
all we have in Ohio.
- Scenic vistas. Cliffs, bluffs, caves, etc. better than large, flat,
open spaces.
- Long enough river to paddle for 6-7 days
- Minimal civil infrastructure. We'd like to see/hear zero cars for at
least a few days.
(do any other these rivers flow through towns?)
- Good availability of shoreline camping but not at road accessible
campsites/campgrounds.
- Minimal local rental traffic (meaning avoiding the most heavily used
stretches of river)

The rivers I am looking at are the Current and Eleven Point in Missouri
and the Buffalo in Arkansas. Based on my criteria stated above, does
any one river stand out as the best choice?

I like the clear/cold water and springs of the Current River but I am
beginning to get the impression that it is scenic but not very wild.

Also, any recommendations on rental liveries/shuttle services? Who has
good rental rates and nice canoes? Some of us don't own canoes and will
have to rent.

If you paddle the rivers in this region, do you paddle a poly or
fiberglass/kevlar boat? Is it possible to paddle a kevlar boat on these
rivers without trashing it completely. A few scrapes are no big deal
but I don't want to punch holes in my canoe either.

Links to trip reports, photo albums, and subjective opinions are all
welcome. I've been Googling the subject for a day or so now and I'm
finding more commercial livery info than personal trip descriptions.

This is a once-a-year, week-long trip for me and I have to make every
day count. If you had 6-7 days to paddle, where would you go in the
Ozarks?

Thanks.

Greg Smith

(remove bird to reply via email)

Yesterday's response never made to the group, so here it is again,
with some additions.

Greg,
I was on the Jacks fork and Current last week. Both are great
paddeling. Upper Jacks is allegedly class II at high water.
We ran Blue springs to Rymers 2 days after a 1 inch rain, it was too
low before it rained. I'd expect more water in the spring, but I've
never been there except the end of october.
We (7 solo boats) did Blue Spring to Rymers, and Bay Creek to Alley
Spring on the Jacks Fork, (2 day trips) and Baptist to Cedar Grove,
Cedar Grove to Akers, Akers to Pulltite, and Pulltite to Round Spring
over 4 day trips. We had 4 tandems, as well on the 2 lower current
sections. The water was low.
The solos consisted of 2 Wen-o-nah Advantages, 2 Solitudes, 2 Bell
Magics, and my 14'8" stripper. I had by far the easiest time
maneuvering, as my boat has 1 1/2 inch of rocker, but I had to palddle
a lot to keep up with all the long skinney boats.
I think the Bay Cr to Alley is the prettiest section, on Jacks.
I can't help with outfitters, as I have never used one.
Dan DunphyOn Fri, 29 Oct 2004 21:45:04 GMT, Greg Smith
wrote:

I need advice for a Spring paddling trip in the Ozarks. My paddling
buddies and I usually canoe in the northwoods (Ontario or Upper
Penninsula of Michigan) or kayak in the Gulf of Mexico. A river trip is
something new for us to plan and I need some help.

Our criteria are pretty simple:
- Ozarks region (paddlers are coming from Ohio and Texas)
- Clear (or at least clean) water
- Gravel/sand/rock bottomed riverbed. Mud-banked rivers suck. That's
all we have in Ohio.
- Scenic vistas. Cliffs, bluffs, caves, etc. better than large, flat,
open spaces.
- Long enough river to paddle for 6-7 days
- Minimal civil infrastructure. We'd like to see/hear zero cars for at
least a few days.
(do any other these rivers flow through towns?)
- Good availability of shoreline camping but not at road accessible
campsites/campgrounds.
- Minimal local rental traffic (meaning avoiding the most heavily used
stretches of river)

The rivers I am looking at are the Current and Eleven Point in Missouri
and the Buffalo in Arkansas. Based on my criteria stated above, does
any one river stand out as the best choice?

I like the clear/cold water and springs of the Current River but I am
beginning to get the impression that it is scenic but not very wild.

Also, any recommendations on rental liveries/shuttle services? Who has
good rental rates and nice canoes? Some of us don't own canoes and will
have to rent.

If you paddle the rivers in this region, do you paddle a poly or
fiberglass/kevlar boat? Is it possible to paddle a kevlar boat on these
rivers without trashing it completely. A few scrapes are no big deal
but I don't want to punch holes in my canoe either.

Links to trip reports, photo albums, and subjective opinions are all
welcome. I've been Googling the subject for a day or so now and I'm
finding more commercial livery info than personal trip descriptions.

This is a once-a-year, week-long trip for me and I have to make every
day count. If you had 6-7 days to paddle, where would you go in the
Ozarks?

Thanks.

Greg Smith

(remove bird to reply via email)

I grew up near the Buffalo in Arkansas, and now live in California where sea
kayaking is becoming my latest endeavor. Going to Channel Islands this
weekend. Nothing compares to the beauty and wilderness of the Buffalo,
particularly around Hwy. 14 near Rush (ghost town). Tall bluffs, clear
water, private beach areas for camping...it's like heaven. As mentioned in
earlier posts, spring time water levels can be high, maximizing the rapids
in some areas, while still being able to kick back and float for long
periods. The outfitter we use is Wild Bill's Ozark Outfitters, they can
help you plan a trip.

Another river in the Ozarks that I can highly recommend is the White River.
It is also in north central Arkansas, and if you plan to do any fishing,
it's one of the world's best trout areas. The water is cold, usually around
56 degrees year round as it is fed by springs and the dam from Bull Shoals
Lake. Either place has beautiful bluffs, lush forests and incredible
wildlife. Don't be surprised if you see a black bear at the Buffalo, or
fish jumping three feet in the air on the White. Buffalo City, near
Mountain Home, AR is where the White meets the Buffalo, and the scenery is
extremely incredible.

Good luck on your trip!

Michelle

Thanks to all who have responded. It's going to come down to talking
to locals the very week we head down and be prepared to change our
float plan.

I think it'll definitely be the Buffalo River. One thing I need to
determine is what is a reasonable distance to paddle. I have maps, and
GPS waypoints for river miles and landmarks to help judge progress. I
don't want to have to kill ourselves to meet mileage goals but I also
don't want to paddle for two days and find out we're halfway down the
river. Again, I'm sure the local liveries can give us advice on the
best put-in for the number of days we want to be on the river.

Like you Michelle, I also have a kayak, an Eddyline Sea Star. Last
year, my buddies and I paddled for a few days off the Gulf Coast of
Mississippi and I loved it. I'd do it every weekend if I didn't live
in Ohio. My Sea Star spends a lot of time hanging in the garage.
Channel Islands...I envy you. Have fun.

On 2005-02-04, Greg Smith wrote:
Thanks to all who have responded. It's going to come down to talking
to locals the very week we head down and be prepared to change our
float plan.

I think it'll definitely be the Buffalo River. One thing I need to
determine is what is a reasonable distance to paddle. I have maps, and

Greg, I'm from Shreveport, LA, and have been on float trips on many of the
rivers in Oklahoma, Arkansas, and Missouri over the years.

You will find the Buffalo very enjoyable and if water levels are not too low
it moves rather quickly, so you can cover a goodly distance. In fact, our
longest trip was on the Buffalo and covered about 60 miles in 4 days, if I
remember correctly.

My favorite river of all times, however, is the Current. It is easy to break
that one up into three sections or do a long run. Coming into the Current is
also the Jack's Fork, which is smaller and very beautiful. Both rivers are
spring fed and almost clear with gravel beds.

Be sure and get the topo maps for these rivers or some other good guides for
there are very interesting things to see on all of these rivers.

Don't know what kind of paddling you wish, but our trips were camping trips
using the banks of the rivers and carrying all provisions. My website
(signature block below) has a few pics. Feel free to reach me via that if I
can be of any assistance.

....Edwin
--
__________________________________________________ _____
"Once you have flown, you will walk the earth with your
eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, there you
long to return."-- da Vinci ... www.shreve.net/~elj