Greg, I seldom post to these boards, but I found your inquiry compelling
because our experiences and tastes in wilderness canoeing seem very similar.
I, too, am from Ohio and have paddled for many years on wilderness rivers in
nothern Ontario and have done a fair amount of sea kayaking on various
coasts and the Great Lakes. However, my favorite all around scenic river
remains the Buffalo River in Arkansas. I have not paddled the other two
rivers you mention, although I have heard and read much about them. All I
can say is that the spectacular scenery along the Buffalo will not
disappoint you.
I have paddled the river, or portions of it, around 7 times, usually in
the early spring. I have another 8-day trip planned for late April of this
year. I always use Buffalo Outdoor Center in Ponca for either a shuttle or
canoe rental. They are very professional and knowledgeable and, if you make
a request, you might even be able to snag one of their vintage original Blue
Hole canoes, although most of their fleet is now, I believe, made up of Old
Town Discoveries. Check their website (I assume you have already seen it).
The river is very busy in the upper canyon on spring weekends, so I have
generally tried to start a trip on a Friday moring or Monday morning.
The water is relatively clear, but has a green cast to it (not murky,
but an attractive green). I strongly reccommend that you begin around Ponca
and experience the upper canyon despite its popularity because it is the
most beautiful part of the river and averages about 4 rapids per mile. A
good 5-day trip is from Ponca to Tyler Bend. From Ponca to the end of the
river at Buffalo City is about 126 miles and would normally take 7 to 10
days, depending on how hard you plan to push. The rapids are mostly class 1
with a few marginal class 2 along the way. If your party is not
particularly experienced with whitewater, I would not be too concerned.
This is not a technical river and a lot of novices go down it every
year.Compared to Ontario rivers such as the White, Missinaibi, Missisaugi,
Ground Hog, Chapleau, Steel, etc., it is a very easy river--no portaging, no
serious scouting required, and no hull piercing rocks. You would propably
be ok with a Kevlar canoe, but, depending on the water level, you may drag
bottom and you will undoubtedly hit a few rocks. I paddle a 25-year-old ABS
Old Town Tripper and I think an ABS or plastic (e.g, the Discovery) boat is
best for whitewater paddling. There are numerous gravel bars to camp on, but
if there is heavy rain, make sure you camp on much higher ground. Two years
ago, in the upper canyon, the river rose around 20 feet and I was camped at
25. It is not a true wilderness river--you will see a few people and there
are a few minor road crossings and periodic established campgrounds, but it
has a wilderness feel to it if you choose your river bank campsites wisely
(i.e., a suitable distance from road access and established campgrounds).
It is like Canada without the bugs and portaging and with a current that
makes paddling easier.
The web site for the national river has a lot of good information
including a map. There are also 2 very good waterproof Trails Illustrated
maps available for the east and west portions of the river that also show
the hiking trails. Let me know if you have any questions. Good luck. -
Larry
"Greg Smith" wrote in message
...
I need advice for a Spring paddling trip in the Ozarks. My paddling
buddies and I usually canoe in the northwoods (Ontario or Upper
Penninsula of Michigan) or kayak in the Gulf of Mexico. A river trip is
something new for us to plan and I need some help.
Our criteria are pretty simple:
- Ozarks region (paddlers are coming from Ohio and Texas)
- Clear (or at least clean) water
- Gravel/sand/rock bottomed riverbed. Mud-banked rivers suck. That's
all we have in Ohio.
- Scenic vistas. Cliffs, bluffs, caves, etc. better than large, flat,
open spaces.
- Long enough river to paddle for 6-7 days
- Minimal civil infrastructure. We'd like to see/hear zero cars for at
least a few days.
(do any other these rivers flow through towns?)
- Good availability of shoreline camping but not at road accessible
campsites/campgrounds.
- Minimal local rental traffic (meaning avoiding the most heavily used
stretches of river)
The rivers I am looking at are the Current and Eleven Point in Missouri
and the Buffalo in Arkansas. Based on my criteria stated above, does
any one river stand out as the best choice?
I like the clear/cold water and springs of the Current River but I am
beginning to get the impression that it is scenic but not very wild.
Also, any recommendations on rental liveries/shuttle services? Who has
good rental rates and nice canoes? Some of us don't own canoes and will
have to rent.
If you paddle the rivers in this region, do you paddle a poly or
fiberglass/kevlar boat? Is it possible to paddle a kevlar boat on these
rivers without trashing it completely. A few scrapes are no big deal
but I don't want to punch holes in my canoe either.
Links to trip reports, photo albums, and subjective opinions are all
welcome. I've been Googling the subject for a day or so now and I'm
finding more commercial livery info than personal trip descriptions.
This is a once-a-year, week-long trip for me and I have to make every
day count. If you had 6-7 days to paddle, where would you go in the
Ozarks?
Thanks.
Greg Smith
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