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#1
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posted to rec.boats
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I just registered my boat in AZ, and these guys are a lot stricter
than CA. In CA they just used the serial number stamped on by Sears in the 70s as the hull number. In AZ they said that isn't a hull number and I need to put one on my boat. It is just a 12' aluminum jon boat. How would one go about attaching this number? The woman said I should use a metal punch, but I don't own one and wouldn't use it for anything else (not that I don't buy tools on a whim most of the time). The law in AZ states: Burned, Carved, Stamped, Embossed, Molded, Bonded, or otherwise permantently affixed to the watercraft so that alteration, removal, or replacement would be obvious. The boat has so many holes in it, I don't think it would be obvious that it was removed no matter what I did... but I don't care so much about that, just want to be legal enough that they won't hassle me about it. O-ya, and the letters need to be at least 1/4", and the one metal punch kit I did see was only 3/16" (I've only seen them on-line, not in any local stores, which is another hassle). O-well, the paper says I have 30 days to do this, so I'm still going fishing this weekend! =] |
#2
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posted to rec.boats
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wrote
the one metal punch kit I did see was only 3/16" http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=35121 |
#3
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posted to rec.boats
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On Aug 6, 6:20*pm, "Ernest Scribbler"
wrote: wrote the one metal punch kit I did see was only 3/16" http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=35121 Yah, this is most likely 1/4", although kind of missleading because it also says: "1/8" high characters include 26 letters "A-Z", "&" sign, and numbers "0-8" (turn the "6" upside down for the number "9") " Probably a typo, but could be that the tool is 1/4" round and the letters/numbers are only 1/8". They have some others too though, so I'm sure one of the others is probably more clear. I don't really like buying tools on-line. |
#4
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posted to rec.boats
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On Thu, 7 Aug 2008 10:56:31 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
Probably a typo, but could be that the tool is 1/4" round and the letters/numbers are only 1/8". They have some others too though, so I'm sure one of the others is probably more clear. The tool would be square, as that is better and not especially more expensive. All the ones I have ever seen were square. Casady |
#5
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posted to rec.boats
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I don't really like buying tools on-line. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta..._stores.taf#AZ |
#6
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posted to rec.boats
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On Aug 6, 8:41*pm, wrote:
I just registered my boat in AZ, and these guys are a lot stricter than CA. *In CA they just used the serial number stamped on by Sears in the 70s as the hull number. *In AZ they said that isn't a hull number and I need to put one on my boat. *It is just a 12' aluminum jon boat. How would one go about attaching this number? *The woman said I should use a metal punch, but I don't own one and wouldn't use it for anything else (not that I don't buy tools on a whim most of the time). The law in AZ states: Burned, Carved, Stamped, Embossed, Molded, Bonded, or otherwise permantently affixed to the watercraft so that alteration, removal, or replacement would be obvious. The boat has so many holes in it, I don't think it would be obvious that it was removed no matter what I did... but I don't care so much about that, just want to be legal enough that they won't hassle me about it. *O-ya, and the letters need to be at least 1/4", and the one metal punch kit I did see was only 3/16" (I've only seen them on-line, not in any local stores, which is another hassle). O-well, the paper says I have 30 days to do this, so I'm still going fishing this weekend! =] Well, you can probably stamp it into a hunk of metal and attach it with permanant screws or rivits.. They just want to know that you are not moving it from boat to boat on weekends.. ![]() |
#7
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posted to rec.boats
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On Aug 6, 6:30*pm, wrote:
On Aug 6, 8:41*pm, wrote: I just registered my boat in AZ, and these guys are a lot stricter than CA. *In CA they just used the serial number stamped on by Sears in the 70s as the hull number. *In AZ they said that isn't a hull number and I need to put one on my boat. *It is just a 12' aluminum jon boat. How would one go about attaching this number? Well, you can probably stamp it into a hunk of metal and attach it with permanant screws or rivits.. They just want to know that you are not moving it from boat to boat on weekends.. ![]() Thanks, I was thinking about a thin metal plate, but had only thought about rivits.. and I have no experience with rivits so not sure how dificult that would be (especially if I just got a cheap-o tool and not something good). I hadn't thought about screws, I bet if I just used sheet metal screws and then grinded them or stripped the heck out of them (to the point you couldn't remove just by unscrewing) that should work. Plus, the inside part of where I'll be attaching the number has a 5/8" board on it (for clamping the motor/engine) so screws should work well. Also, I should mention that I already have my registration, so it isn't like some states (I imagine) where you have to have the numbers inspected prior to registration... so it really only will be an issue if an officer stops me on the water and wants to take a look (they normally just ask for registration). |
#8
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posted to rec.boats
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![]() wrote in message ... On Aug 6, 6:30 pm, wrote: On Aug 6, 8:41 pm, wrote: I just registered my boat in AZ, and these guys are a lot stricter than CA. In CA they just used the serial number stamped on by Sears in the 70s as the hull number. In AZ they said that isn't a hull number and I need to put one on my boat. It is just a 12' aluminum jon boat. How would one go about attaching this number? Well, you can probably stamp it into a hunk of metal and attach it with permanant screws or rivits.. They just want to know that you are not moving it from boat to boat on weekends.. ![]() Thanks, I was thinking about a thin metal plate, but had only thought about rivits.. and I have no experience with rivits so not sure how dificult that would be (especially if I just got a cheap-o tool and not something good). I hadn't thought about screws, I bet if I just used sheet metal screws and then grinded them or stripped the heck out of them (to the point you couldn't remove just by unscrewing) that should work. Plus, the inside part of where I'll be attaching the number has a 5/8" board on it (for clamping the motor/engine) so screws should work well. Also, I should mention that I already have my registration, so it isn't like some states (I imagine) where you have to have the numbers inspected prior to registration... so it really only will be an issue if an officer stops me on the water and wants to take a look (they normally just ask for registration). Take it by the police station and ask to borrow their engraver. Etch the numbers into the hull. |
#9
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posted to rec.boats
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On Aug 7, 2:11*pm, "Calif Bill" wrote:
wrote in message ... On Aug 6, 6:30 pm, wrote: On Aug 6, 8:41 pm, wrote: I just registered my boat in AZ, and these guys are a lot stricter than CA. In CA they just used the serial number stamped on by Sears in the 70s as the hull number. In AZ they said that isn't a hull number and I need to put one on my boat. It is just a 12' aluminum jon boat. How would one go about attaching this number? Well, you can probably stamp it into a hunk of metal and attach it with permanant screws or rivits.. They just want to know that you are not moving it from boat to boat on weekends.. ![]() Thanks, I was thinking about a thin metal plate, but had only thought about rivits.. and I have no experience with rivits so not sure how dificult that would be (especially if I just got a cheap-o tool and not something good). *I hadn't thought about screws, I bet if I just used sheet metal screws and then grinded them or stripped the heck out of them (to the point you couldn't remove just by unscrewing) that should work. *Plus, the inside part of where I'll be attaching the number has a 5/8" board on it (for clamping the motor/engine) so screws should work well. They make screws with special heads that can only be turned in one direction (in) with normal tools.. I have seen them in public buildings for railings and signage.. Pobably get them at any hardware store.. Also iirc a DEP guy told me once that grinding the slot off of a screw after installation would pass muster.. Also, I should mention that I already have my registration, so it isn't like some states (I imagine) where you have to have the numbers inspected prior to registration... so it really only will be an issue if an officer stops me on the water and wants to take a look (they normally just ask for registration). It only takes a turn of his head to see if the plate is there.. Most jurisdictions are pretty specific as to where they can be put.. but always in plain sight... Take it by the police station and ask to borrow their engraver. *Etch the numbers into the hull. Again, easier to paint over than a plack, I could be wrong here so you could ask your locals, but I don't think they want that.. Again, on that point don't take my word for it.. |
#10
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posted to rec.boats
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![]() wrote in message ... On Aug 6, 6:30 pm, wrote: On Aug 6, 8:41 pm, wrote: I just registered my boat in AZ, and these guys are a lot stricter than CA. In CA they just used the serial number stamped on by Sears in the 70s as the hull number. In AZ they said that isn't a hull number and I need to put one on my boat. It is just a 12' aluminum jon boat. How would one go about attaching this number? Well, you can probably stamp it into a hunk of metal and attach it with permanant screws or rivits.. They just want to know that you are not moving it from boat to boat on weekends.. ![]() Thanks, I was thinking about a thin metal plate, but had only thought about rivits.. and I have no experience with rivits so not sure how dificult that would be (especially if I just got a cheap-o tool and not something good). I hadn't thought about screws, I bet if I just used sheet metal screws and then grinded them or stripped the heck out of them (to the point you couldn't remove just by unscrewing) that should work. Plus, the inside part of where I'll be attaching the number has a 5/8" board on it (for clamping the motor/engine) so screws should work well. Also, I should mention that I already have my registration, so it isn't like some states (I imagine) where you have to have the numbers inspected prior to registration... so it really only will be an issue if an officer stops me on the water and wants to take a look (they normally just ask for registration). If you lived up here, all you'd have to do is keep the outboard size under 10hp. No licencing or registering required. |
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