I just registered my boat in AZ, and these guys are a lot stricter
than CA. In CA they just used the serial number stamped on by Sears
in the 70s as the hull number. In AZ they said that isn't a hull
number and I need to put one on my boat. It is just a 12' aluminum
jon boat.

How would one go about attaching this number? The woman said I should
use a metal punch, but I don't own one and wouldn't use it for
anything else (not that I don't buy tools on a whim most of the time).

The law in AZ states: Burned, Carved, Stamped, Embossed, Molded,
Bonded, or otherwise permantently affixed to the watercraft so that
alteration, removal, or replacement would be obvious.

The boat has so many holes in it, I don't think it would be obvious
that it was removed no matter what I did... but I don't care so much
about that, just want to be legal enough that they won't hassle me
about it. O-ya, and the letters need to be at least 1/4", and the one
metal punch kit I did see was only 3/16" (I've only seen them on-line,
not in any local stores, which is another hassle).

O-well, the paper says I have 30 days to do this, so I'm still going
fishing this weekend! =]

wrote
the one metal punch kit I did see was only 3/16"

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=35121

On Aug 6, 8:41*pm, wrote:
I just registered my boat in AZ, and these guys are a lot stricter
than CA. *In CA they just used the serial number stamped on by Sears
in the 70s as the hull number. *In AZ they said that isn't a hull
number and I need to put one on my boat. *It is just a 12' aluminum
jon boat.

How would one go about attaching this number? *The woman said I should
use a metal punch, but I don't own one and wouldn't use it for
anything else (not that I don't buy tools on a whim most of the time).

The law in AZ states: Burned, Carved, Stamped, Embossed, Molded,
Bonded, or otherwise permantently affixed to the watercraft so that
alteration, removal, or replacement would be obvious.

The boat has so many holes in it, I don't think it would be obvious
that it was removed no matter what I did... but I don't care so much
about that, just want to be legal enough that they won't hassle me
about it. *O-ya, and the letters need to be at least 1/4", and the one
metal punch kit I did see was only 3/16" (I've only seen them on-line,
not in any local stores, which is another hassle).

O-well, the paper says I have 30 days to do this, so I'm still going
fishing this weekend! =]

Well, you can probably stamp it into a hunk of metal and attach it
with permanant screws or rivits.. They just want to know that you are
not moving it from boat to boat on weekends..

On Wed, 6 Aug 2008 17:41:27 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

I just registered my boat in AZ, and these guys are a lot stricter
than CA. In CA they just used the serial number stamped on by Sears
in the 70s as the hull number. In AZ they said that isn't a hull
number and I need to put one on my boat. It is just a 12' aluminum
jon boat.

How would one go about attaching this number? The woman said I should
use a metal punch, but I don't own one and wouldn't use it for
anything else (not that I don't buy tools on a whim most of the time).

The law in AZ states: Burned, Carved, Stamped, Embossed, Molded,
Bonded, or otherwise permantently affixed to the watercraft so that
alteration, removal, or replacement would be obvious.

The boat has so many holes in it, I don't think it would be obvious
that it was removed no matter what I did... but I don't care so much
about that, just want to be legal enough that they won't hassle me
about it. O-ya, and the letters need to be at least 1/4", and the one
metal punch kit I did see was only 3/16" (I've only seen them on-line,
not in any local stores, which is another hassle).

O-well, the paper says I have 30 days to do this, so I'm still going
fishing this weekend! =]

Write it somewhere with a magic marker. If they argue, Show them the
magic marker you used, which has the word "permanent" printed on the
label.

"IanM" wrote in message
...
wrote:
On Wed, 6 Aug 2008 17:41:27 -0700 (PDT), wrote:


I just registered my boat in AZ, and these guys are a lot stricter
than CA. In CA they just used the serial number stamped on by Sears
in the 70s as the hull number. In AZ they said that isn't a hull
number and I need to put one on my boat. It is just a 12' aluminum
jon boat.

How would one go about attaching this number? The woman said I should
use a metal punch, but I don't own one and wouldn't use it for
anything else (not that I don't buy tools on a whim most of the time).

The law in AZ states: Burned, Carved, Stamped, Embossed, Molded,
Bonded, or otherwise permantently affixed to the watercraft so that
alteration, removal, or replacement would be obvious.

The boat has so many holes in it, I don't think it would be obvious
that it was removed no matter what I did... but I don't care so much
about that, just want to be legal enough that they won't hassle me
about it. O-ya, and the letters need to be at least 1/4", and the one
metal punch kit I did see was only 3/16" (I've only seen them on-line,
not in any local stores, which is another hassle).

O-well, the paper says I have 30 days to do this, so I'm still going
fishing this weekend! =]


Write it somewhere with a magic marker. If they argue, Show them the
magic marker you used, which has the word "permanent" printed on the
label.



get a template for 1/2 inch high numbers and an electic engraving tool, or
get a shop that does engraving to make up an aluminum plaque, and bond it
on with 5200, with both surfaces freshly sanded.

That will do it. Or .... here in MA (also has very strick regulations
regarding having a HIV number on the transom), a thin metal plate with the
HIV number stamped into it and then pop riveted to the transom is
acceptable.

The new rigid hull inflatable I just bought was done that way and was
acceptable for registration purposes.

Eisboch

"Eisboch" wrote in message
...


That will do it. Or .... here in MA (also has very strick regulations
regarding having a HIV number on the transom), a thin metal plate with the
HIV number stamped into it and then pop riveted to the transom is
acceptable.

The new rigid hull inflatable I just bought was done that way and was
acceptable for registration purposes.

Eisboch



forgot .... thin metal plate and pop rivets are obviously made of alumium.

wrote:
On Wed, 6 Aug 2008 17:41:27 -0700 (PDT), wrote:


I just registered my boat in AZ, and these guys are a lot stricter
than CA. In CA they just used the serial number stamped on by Sears
in the 70s as the hull number. In AZ they said that isn't a hull
number and I need to put one on my boat. It is just a 12' aluminum
jon boat.

How would one go about attaching this number? The woman said I should
use a metal punch, but I don't own one and wouldn't use it for
anything else (not that I don't buy tools on a whim most of the time).

The law in AZ states: Burned, Carved, Stamped, Embossed, Molded,
Bonded, or otherwise permantently affixed to the watercraft so that
alteration, removal, or replacement would be obvious.

The boat has so many holes in it, I don't think it would be obvious
that it was removed no matter what I did... but I don't care so much
about that, just want to be legal enough that they won't hassle me
about it. O-ya, and the letters need to be at least 1/4", and the one
metal punch kit I did see was only 3/16" (I've only seen them on-line,
not in any local stores, which is another hassle).

O-well, the paper says I have 30 days to do this, so I'm still going
fishing this weekend! =]


Write it somewhere with a magic marker. If they argue, Show them the
magic marker you used, which has the word "permanent" printed on the
label.



get a template for 1/2 inch high numbers and an electic engraving tool,
or get a shop that does engraving to make up an aluminum plaque, and
bond it on with 5200, with both surfaces freshly sanded.

On Aug 6, 6:30*pm, wrote:

On Aug 6, 8:41*pm, wrote:

I just registered my boat in AZ, and these guys are a lot stricter
than CA. *In CA they just used the serial number stamped on by Sears
in the 70s as the hull number. *In AZ they said that isn't a hull
number and I need to put one on my boat. *It is just a 12' aluminum
jon boat.

How would one go about attaching this number?

Well, you can probably stamp it into a hunk of metal and attach it
with permanant screws or rivits.. They just want to know that you are
not moving it from boat to boat on weekends..

Thanks, I was thinking about a thin metal plate, but had only thought
about rivits.. and I have no experience with rivits so not sure how
dificult that would be (especially if I just got a cheap-o tool and
not something good). I hadn't thought about screws, I bet if I just
used sheet metal screws and then grinded them or stripped the heck out
of them (to the point you couldn't remove just by unscrewing) that
should work. Plus, the inside part of where I'll be attaching the
number has a 5/8" board on it (for clamping the motor/engine) so
screws should work well.

Also, I should mention that I already have my registration, so it
isn't like some states (I imagine) where you have to have the numbers
inspected prior to registration... so it really only will be an issue
if an officer stops me on the water and wants to take a look (they
normally just ask for registration).

On Aug 7, 3:25*am, wrote:

On Wed, 6 Aug 2008 17:41:27 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

I just registered my boat in AZ, and these guys are a lot stricter
than CA. *In CA they just used the serial number stamped on by Sears
in the 70s as the hull number. *In AZ they said that isn't a hull
number and I need to put one on my boat. *It is just a 12' aluminum
jon boat.

How would one go about attaching this number?


Write it somewhere with a magic marker. If they argue, Show them the
magic marker you used, which has the word "permanent" printed on the
label.


Sounds good to me, but for some reason I don't think that would fly.
I did paint the registration numbers on though, and with red paint
instead of black (boat is gray), instead of buying those decals
everyone uses... so I'm already asking for trouble =]

On Aug 6, 6:20*pm, "Ernest Scribbler"
wrote:
wrote

the one metal punch kit I did see was only 3/16"

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=35121

Yah, this is most likely 1/4", although kind of missleading because it
also says:

"1/8" high characters include 26 letters "A-Z", "&" sign, and numbers
"0-8" (turn the "6" upside down for the number "9") "

Probably a typo, but could be that the tool is 1/4" round and the
letters/numbers are only 1/8". They have some others too though, so
I'm sure one of the others is probably more clear.

I don't really like buying tools on-line.