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#1
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posted to rec.boats,rec.boats.building,rec.boats.cruising
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On Jul 4, 7:52*am, wrote:
... Well, at the risk of being simple. I still suggest it's the wrong boat for the job. He just needs to start with the right boat. He can justify, defend, and make any excuses he wants.. Still water, whatever.. But once you leave the dock, things can change quickly to something you have never seen before. Anyway. Have a great fourth, go out in your boats for me ![]() It wouldn't surprise me in the least to find that the boat was originally sold in several configurations (eg. bow rider, 1/3 decked, cuddy cruiser, etc.). So, if the guy wants to convert from one to the other and enjoys doing the work the hull might well be adequate. Since we've only got a pic of the deck it is a little hard to tell what the hull form is, but given the bluff bow I'm guessing it's a Whaler style. If so, he's got oodles of stability. In Hawaii many small fishing boats have home built hard dodgers very like lobster boat style cabins. They put them on to get some cover when operating at sea and stability isn't typically an issue at all. If I were making this kind of conversion I'd put a little cuddy over the foredeck, build a hard dodger and run some rails off of that aft to use as supports for a Bimini, surfboard racks and tent. I'd probably also put a proper transom on the boat and build an external rack for the outboard. The cuddy and the transom will make the boat much less susceptible to swamping the result may be more seaworthy than the original. Sure he can do some testing to see if stability is going to be an issue. I like Roger's method and if he can secure the table and weights he can even go out and do some dynamic testing. But, in the end, I'd be amazed if a well constructed cuddy cabin would make the boat dangerously unstable. Happy 4th! -- Tom. |
#2
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posted to rec.boats,rec.boats.building,rec.boats.cruising
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"Roger Long" wrote
The mini houseboat fellow won't get very far trying to apply what he reads about GM in a standard textbook to his problem. My guess from the OP's photo is that he has a tri-hull, of typical heavy 60s-style construction. If he goes through with his hard-top plan, I'm thinking he'll end up with something akin to a pontoon boat. |
#3
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posted to rec.boats,rec.boats.building,rec.boats.cruising
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On Jul 4, 12:22*pm, "Ernest Scribbler"
wrote: "Roger Long" wrote The mini houseboat fellow won't get very far trying to apply what he reads about GM in a standard textbook to his problem. My guess from the OP's photo is that he has a tri-hull, of typical heavy 60s-style construction. If he goes through with his hard-top plan, I'm thinking he'll end up with something akin to a pontoon boat. Here is a neat program that will give you some pretty basic ideas of rightingmoments, bouyancy, trim, etc.. http://carlsondesign.com/#Fun_Shareware It's shareware, but for a quick idea of a design and it's capability, it is ok.. |
#4
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posted to rec.boats,rec.boats.building,rec.boats.cruising
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On Thu, 03 Jul 2008 22:27:51 -0400, Matt Colie
wrote: Every boat has the center of gravity above the center of buoyancy. Why? Ever hear of heavy ballast keels? If the superstructure is heavy that's one thing, but it doesn't have to be. Casady |
#5
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posted to rec.boats,rec.boats.building,rec.boats.cruising
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David wrote:
I've got an old boat very much like this one: http://www.warnersdock.com/images/Fr...fores15yel.JPG that I'm trying to make into a mini-houseboat, sort of like a camper. I only expect to have about 200-300 pounds in the roof and walls, and the roof will only be about 48" above the gunwale. The hull will weigh a *lot* more than what is added, so shouldn't that alone be enough to keep it from being top heavy and flipping over? If I add weight, like a couple hundred pound bags of sand down in the hull to counterballance, shouldn't that take care of it? If so, should they be placed on the sides, or in the center? Well, boat stability is a complex subject. Here some loose thoughts (before my first cup of coffee, so no guarantees that I get all things right. I'm sure others will jump on the chance to correct my worst blunders - maybe I can learn something too!) I would recommend you read a bit more about it. The "Nature of Boats" by Dave Gerr is a good all-around introduction, and doesn't get too technical. Many other books work as well. When you add weight and windage high up, you reduce the stability. That increases the risk that your boat will capsize in high seas (or even in flat water). It also changes the way the boat rolls in seas, which may make it more or less comfortable to be inside. You are right, you can compensate by adding weight (as low as possible!). This will make the boat sit deeper in the water. Maybe too deep. It all depends what you are going to use the boat for. With a solid house on it, and enough ballast to keep her upright, she will not want to plane. If you can live with moving her at hull speed (a few knots), you can make do with *much* smaller engine, and use the weight difference as ballast. If you do not plan to move her around much at all, then you can afford to load he a bit deeper, as the sailing characteristics won't matter. You can probably get an idea of the stability by doing a simple roll period test. Rock the boat sideways, it will settle on some speed of rolling from side to side. If this roll time (in seconds) is the same as your overall beam (in meters), (or 10% more), you have what Gerr describes a good initial stability. If the boar rolls much faster, you have more (initial) stability for good comfort - that would be good news for you. If, after all the construction, your boat rolls slower than this, you may want to add some ballast. In any case, keep the structure as low as you can manage, and build it light! It looks like a small boat to begin with, so don't even try to build a large house on her. Keep it small and simple, and might work well. Remember that a boat is always a compromise. A heavily modified boat is a compromise between the original compromiseand a your new ideas. It is your own boat, and it is you who will have to live with it. Don't let us naysayers put you completely off. But watch out, it is also your own life you are risking, and possibly your dear ones as well! Good luck! -Heikki |
#6
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posted to rec.boats,rec.boats.building,rec.boats.cruising
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On 2008-07-03 11:34:39 -0400, David dh@. said:
I've got an old boat very much like this one: http://www.warnersdock.com/images/Fr...fores15yel.JPG that I'm trying to make into a mini-houseboat, sort of like a camper. I only expect to have about 200-300 pounds in the roof and walls, and the roof will only be about 48" above the gunwale. The hull will weigh a *lot* more than what is added, so shouldn't that alone be enough to keep it from being top heavy and flipping over? If I add weight, like a couple hundred pound bags of sand down in the hull to counterballance, shouldn't that take care of it? If so, should they be placed on the sides, or in the center? Judging from friends' boats of about that configuration, I'd suggest something quite a bit lighter: a light hard roof and tarps, screen and plastic for removable "walls", a pop-top camper of sorts. That said, a friend was for a time a "slum landlord" of a number of "floating structures" in Key West that were about what I hear you saying. They (mostly) stayed afloat for some years and weathered some nasty weather. Have to say that the inhabitants were not thought well of, though, and the "boats" uniformly disliked by all. Ugly doesn't begin to say it. -- Jere Lull Xan-à-Deux -- Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/ Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/ |
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