On Jun 20, 12:27*pm, wrote:
On Jun 18, 7:02*pm, kipmc4 wrote:





I'm changing the bunks on a used trailer I bought and need some
advice. The bunks are adjustable and I have measured the position on
my old trailer and have all the supports close. The only question is:

What's the best method to curve the bunks to fit the hull? The bunks
curve up in front and that is not too hard but they also curve inward
toward the center. The bunks are very stiff in that direction.

I'm using 2x6 wet fir ( not kiln dried)

Do I get the wood wet? *Use a chain to pull them into position?
Something else?

I'd like to get the shape pretty close before I try loading the boat.

18ft I/O Wellcraft w/ Cobra outdrive. Single axile trailer.

Thanks

Kip

Couple of pressure treated 2x6's covered with bunk material is all you
need. *For that boat 10 ft will be fine. *6" side against the hull.
Just install them parallel. *Ideally you want to position them so that
they are somewhat under the two main stringers that your engine mounts
sit on. *You want the bunk to be just a bit past the edge of the
transom when the boat is on the trailer. *The engine and transom are
where the most weight it. *Also make sure you have them when the hit a
flat part of the hull if it is not flat everywhere on the bottom.
They will bend to fit as needed if you have them positioned ok. *Some
trailers have 4 but for most boats 2 is enough. *I only have 2 10' 2x6
bunks for my 19.5 with a 5.7.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I hope the OP doesn't take Hairy's advice. There are millions of
trailer/boat/bunk combinations. Just because a setup works for one
particular trailer with one particular boat certainly doesn't make it
work for the millions of other combinations.

wrote:
On Jun 20, 12:27 pm, wrote:
On Jun 18, 7:02 pm, kipmc4 wrote:





I'm changing the bunks on a used trailer I bought and need some
advice. The bunks are adjustable and I have measured the position on
my old trailer and have all the supports close. The only question is:
What's the best method to curve the bunks to fit the hull? The bunks
curve up in front and that is not too hard but they also curve inward
toward the center. The bunks are very stiff in that direction.
I'm using 2x6 wet fir ( not kiln dried)
Do I get the wood wet? Use a chain to pull them into position?
Something else?
I'd like to get the shape pretty close before I try loading the boat.
18ft I/O Wellcraft w/ Cobra outdrive. Single axile trailer.
Thanks
Kip
Couple of pressure treated 2x6's covered with bunk material is all you
need. For that boat 10 ft will be fine. 6" side against the hull.
Just install them parallel. Ideally you want to position them so that
they are somewhat under the two main stringers that your engine mounts
sit on. You want the bunk to be just a bit past the edge of the
transom when the boat is on the trailer. The engine and transom are
where the most weight it. Also make sure you have them when the hit a
flat part of the hull if it is not flat everywhere on the bottom.
They will bend to fit as needed if you have them positioned ok. Some
trailers have 4 but for most boats 2 is enough. I only have 2 10' 2x6
bunks for my 19.5 with a 5.7.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I hope the OP doesn't take Hairy's advice.

Regarding trailer bunks, ****-for-brains? Why is that? What the hell
would a slowboy like you know about boat trailers?

On Jun 20, 9:27*am, wrote:
On Jun 18, wrote:





I'm changing the bunks on a used trailer I bought and need some
advice. The bunks are adjustable and I have measured the position on
my old trailer and have all the supports close. The only question is:

What's the best method to curve the bunks to fit the hull? The bunks
curve up in front and that is not too hard but they also curve inward
toward the center. The bunks are very stiff in that direction.

I'm using 2x6 wet fir ( not kiln dried)

Do I get the wood wet? *Use a chain to pull them into position?
Something else?

I'd like to get the shape pretty close before I try loading the boat.

18ft I/O Wellcraft w/ Cobra outdrive. Single axile trailer.

Thanks

Kip

Couple of pressure treated 2x6's covered withbunkmaterial is all you
need. *For that boat 10 ft will be fine. *6" side against the hull.
Just install them parallel. *Ideally you want to position them so that
they are somewhat under the two main stringers that your engine mounts
sit on. *You want thebunkto be just a bit past the edge of the
transom when the boat is on the trailer. *The engine and transom are
where the most weight it. *Also make sure you have them when the hit a
flat part of the hull if it is not flat everywhere on the bottom.
They will bend to fit as needed if you have them positioned ok. *Some
trailers have 4 but for most boats 2 is enough. *I only have 2 10' 2x6
bunks for my 19.5 with a 5.7.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Thanks again for the responses.

I'm almost done and used 2 2x6 8 ft long. I extended fwd of the 3rd
support but will cut off the excess after I see how it fits with the
boat loaded.

I laid the 2x6 down so the 6 in side is against the hul. 2 reasons: 1)
more surface area spreads out the weight and 2) I think the other way
would be way too stiff and not allow the bunks to flex. That would
concentrating the load on the hull to much. All the original
configurations that 've seen have the bunks laid down flat.

Kip

PS to keet this a useful, efficient and enjoyable forum, please stay
on topic. Do not insult other posters ( you can still disagree
politely) and do not respond to insulting or off topic posts.

Happy Boating

kipmc4 wrote:
On Jun 20, 9:27 am, wrote:
On Jun 18, 7:02 wrote:





I'm changing the bunks on a used trailer I bought and need some
advice. The bunks are adjustable and I have measured the position on
my old trailer and have all the supports close. The only question is:
What's the best method to curve the bunks to fit the hull? The bunks
curve up in front and that is not too hard but they also curve inward
toward the center. The bunks are very stiff in that direction.
I'm using 2x6 wet fir ( not kiln dried)
Do I get the wood wet? Use a chain to pull them into position?
Something else?
I'd like to get the shape pretty close before I try loading the boat.
18ft I/O Wellcraft w/ Cobra outdrive. Single axile trailer.
Thanks
Kip
Couple of pressure treated 2x6's covered withbunkmaterial is all you
need. For that boat 10 ft will be fine. 6" side against the hull.
Just install them parallel. Ideally you want to position them so that
they are somewhat under the two main stringers that your engine mounts
sit on. You want thebunkto be just a bit past the edge of the
transom when the boat is on the trailer. The engine and transom are
where the most weight it. Also make sure you have them when the hit a
flat part of the hull if it is not flat everywhere on the bottom.
They will bend to fit as needed if you have them positioned ok. Some
trailers have 4 but for most boats 2 is enough. I only have 2 10' 2x6
bunks for my 19.5 with a 5.7.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Thanks again for the responses.

I'm almost done and used 2 2x6 8 ft long. I extended fwd of the 3rd
support but will cut off the excess after I see how it fits with the
boat loaded.

I laid the 2x6 down so the 6 in side is against the hul. 2 reasons: 1)
more surface area spreads out the weight and 2) I think the other way
would be way too stiff and not allow the bunks to flex. That would
concentrating the load on the hull to much. All the original
configurations that 've seen have the bunks laid down flat.

Kip

PS to keet this a useful, efficient and enjoyable forum, please stay
on topic. Do not insult other posters ( you can still disagree
politely) and do not respond to insulting or off topic posts.

Happy Boating


Why would you want the bunks to flex? The trailer has it's own
suspension. You want the hull to be fastened tight to the bunks and
trailer. If the bunks flex, the boat can move and bounce while you
trailer it. If you want to spread out the weight, use 4X6 lumber. The
boat is only 18' long so it shouldn't need that much support anyway.

Happy Boating

Why would you want the bunks to flex? *The trailer has it's own
suspension. *You want the hull to be fastened tight to the bunks and
trailer. *If the bunks flex, the boat can move and bounce while you
trailer it. *If you want to spread out the weight, use 4X6 lumber. *The
boat is only 18' long so it shouldn't need that much support anyway.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

***************

I should have said curve not flex. I'm not trying to soften the ride
for the boat. I'm trying to spread out the force on a larger area of
the hull buy having the bunks curve to match the hull.

It's all done now. I used 2x6 with the 6 in side against the hull.