"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 4 Jan 2008 01:42:15 -0800 (PST), Matty F
wrote:

I would guess that it makes no difference to the flushing quality, and
I reckon it's unnecessary and dangerous to have the motor in gear with
the prop turning while flushing.

It also has to do with getting water to the engine. With the prop in
gear, in a confined space, there is decreased water flow to the
engine.

There is no need to turn the prop anyway.


I just looked up the manual for my 1994 Johnson 25 2 stroke.
The recommend:
placing engine in vertical position in area with good ventilation and
drainage
cover two small holes on either side of gear case with tape to make sure
enough water travels to the powerhead... remembering to uncover after
flushing
install flushing device & garden hose
place shift lever in neutral and remove prop
start water... keeping pressure between 20 and 40 psi
start engine... run at idle only and at least for 5 minutes
check water pump...steady flow must be coming from hole
then leave motor in vertical position (after shut off) to completely drain
the powerhead.

That's word for word from the operators manual.

Don White wrote:
"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 4 Jan 2008 01:42:15 -0800 (PST), Matty F
wrote:

I would guess that it makes no difference to the flushing quality, and
I reckon it's unnecessary and dangerous to have the motor in gear with
the prop turning while flushing.
It also has to do with getting water to the engine. With the prop in
gear, in a confined space, there is decreased water flow to the
engine.

There is no need to turn the prop anyway.


I just looked up the manual for my 1994 Johnson 25 2 stroke.
The recommend:
placing engine in vertical position in area with good ventilation and
drainage
cover two small holes on either side of gear case with tape to make sure
enough water travels to the powerhead... remembering to uncover after
flushing
install flushing device & garden hose
place shift lever in neutral and remove prop
start water... keeping pressure between 20 and 40 psi
start engine... run at idle only and at least for 5 minutes
check water pump...steady flow must be coming from hole
then leave motor in vertical position (after shut off) to completely drain
the powerhead.

That's word for word from the operators manual.




THat's a lotta work to flush an engine.

--
George W. Bush - the 43rd Best President Ever!

"HK" wrote in message
...
Don White wrote:
"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 4 Jan 2008 01:42:15 -0800 (PST), Matty F
wrote:

I would guess that it makes no difference to the flushing quality, and
I reckon it's unnecessary and dangerous to have the motor in gear with
the prop turning while flushing.
It also has to do with getting water to the engine. With the prop in
gear, in a confined space, there is decreased water flow to the
engine.

There is no need to turn the prop anyway.


I just looked up the manual for my *2004* Johnson 25 2 stroke.
The recommend:
placing engine in vertical position in area with good ventilation and
drainage
cover two small holes on either side of gear case with tape to make sure
enough water travels to the powerhead... remembering to uncover after
flushing
install flushing device & garden hose
place shift lever in neutral and remove prop
start water... keeping pressure between 20 and 40 psi
start engine... run at idle only and at least for 5 minutes
check water pump...steady flow must be coming from hole
then leave motor in vertical position (after shut off) to completely
drain the powerhead.

That's word for word from the operators manual.


THat's a lotta work to flush an engine.

--

Sure is... I didn't remove the propeller when I flushed in October while
winterizing and I'm pretty sure I didn't cover the two little holes.
All seemed to work ok.

"Don White" wrote in message
...

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 4 Jan 2008 01:42:15 -0800 (PST), Matty F
wrote:

I would guess that it makes no difference to the flushing quality, and
I reckon it's unnecessary and dangerous to have the motor in gear with
the prop turning while flushing.

It also has to do with getting water to the engine. With the prop in
gear, in a confined space, there is decreased water flow to the
engine.

There is no need to turn the prop anyway.


I just looked up the manual for my *1994* Johnson 25 2 stroke.
The recommend:
placing engine in vertical position in area with good ventilation and
drainage
cover two small holes on either side of gear case with tape to make sure
enough water travels to the powerhead... remembering to uncover after
flushing
install flushing device & garden hose
place shift lever in neutral and remove prop
start water... keeping pressure between 20 and 40 psi
start engine... run at idle only and at least for 5 minutes
check water pump...steady flow must be coming from hole
then leave motor in vertical position (after shut off) to completely drain
the powerhead.

That's word for word from the operators manual.


D'oh...better make that my *2004* Johnson 25hp.

On Jan 5, 5:24*am, wrote:

To flush my Yamaha, here is what I do:

Attach garden hose to fitting built into the motor and turn on water.
Do NOT run motor while doing this.

Drink a beer

Turn off water and unscrew hose.

That sounds a lot easier than trying to run the motor in a vat of
water.
Currently we use the motors every week day and flush them before the
weekends.
We are about to get new motors and I don't know the brand yet.
Using the above method we could flush them every day. I'll check with
the manual when it arrives.

wrote:
On Fri, 04 Jan 2008 13:40:42 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 04 Jan 2008 11:24:30 -0500, wrote:

To flush my Yamaha, here is what I do:

Attach garden hose to fitting built into the motor and turn on water.
Do NOT run motor while doing this.

Drink a beer

Turn off water and unscrew hose.

If you don't run the motor long enough to open the thermostat you are
not really flushing the powerhead, only the water manifold.
There may be some exchange with the water in the powerhead but there
will be pockets that remain.

The Yamaha was designed and built with this method of flushing. It's
not an afterthought, and you do NOT need to run the motor to properly
flush it. In fact, that would be a bad thing to do!



How could it be bad? It's no different than running it in the water. I
have the built in connection but I still prefer to run it.

wrote:
On Fri, 04 Jan 2008 19:51:29 -0500, Dan wrote:

wrote:
On Fri, 04 Jan 2008 13:40:42 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 04 Jan 2008 11:24:30 -0500, wrote:

To flush my Yamaha, here is what I do:

Attach garden hose to fitting built into the motor and turn on water.
Do NOT run motor while doing this.

Drink a beer

Turn off water and unscrew hose.

If you don't run the motor long enough to open the thermostat you are
not really flushing the powerhead, only the water manifold.
There may be some exchange with the water in the powerhead but there
will be pockets that remain.
The Yamaha was designed and built with this method of flushing. It's
not an afterthought, and you do NOT need to run the motor to properly
flush it. In fact, that would be a bad thing to do!


How could it be bad? It's no different than running it in the water. I
have the built in connection but I still prefer to run it.

Your water pump may feel differently about that.



I don't get your point. When you idle in the water or a tub there's
nothing but the impeller (water pump) forcing water though the motor.
On muffs or with the quick connect there's +/- 50psi of water forcing
itself through the motor. I have a 4 stroke "Yamamercury". Yamaha on
top - Merc on the bottom.