Flushing an outboard motor
 

I use a plastic barrel with fresh water in it to flush our two-stroke
Mariner outboards. I've searched and read many instructions for
flushing an outboard motor, but to my surprise I have not seen a
single mention about whether the prop should be turning or not.
I would guess that it makes no difference to the flushing quality, and
I reckon it's unnecessary and dangerous to have the motor in gear with
the prop turning while flushing.

Is there anyone out there who thinks the prop should be turning? I ask
only because the people who have been doing the flushing for years do
have it turning, and I know they are going to argue with me.

No I'm not interested in discussing using a garden hose or muffs
thanks.

Flushing an outboard motor
 

On Fri, 4 Jan 2008 01:42:15 -0800 (PST), Matty F
wrote:

I would guess that it makes no difference to the flushing quality, and
I reckon it's unnecessary and dangerous to have the motor in gear with
the prop turning while flushing.

It also has to do with getting water to the engine. With the prop in
gear, in a confined space, there is decreased water flow to the
engine.

There is no need to turn the prop anyway.

Flushing an outboard motor
 

Is there anyone out there who thinks the prop should be turning? I ask
only because the people who have been doing the flushing for years do
have it turning, and I know they are going to argue with me.

I likewise flush my 6hp dinghy outboard using a trashcan and a wood block
jig mounted on a handcart. If the water exits via the usual 'pee' stream
then it wouldn't seem to matter. I've run mine both in and out of gear and
the stream was unchanged. It would seem unlikely it'd make much difference.
That and unless you're cranking it full throttle I can't see it doing much
to starve the intake of water.

Flushing an outboard motor
 

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 4 Jan 2008 01:42:15 -0800 (PST), Matty F
wrote:

I would guess that it makes no difference to the flushing quality, and
I reckon it's unnecessary and dangerous to have the motor in gear with
the prop turning while flushing.

It also has to do with getting water to the engine. With the prop in
gear, in a confined space, there is decreased water flow to the
engine.

There is no need to turn the prop anyway.


I just looked up the manual for my 1994 Johnson 25 2 stroke.
The recommend:
placing engine in vertical position in area with good ventilation and
drainage
cover two small holes on either side of gear case with tape to make sure
enough water travels to the powerhead... remembering to uncover after
flushing
install flushing device & garden hose
place shift lever in neutral and remove prop
start water... keeping pressure between 20 and 40 psi
start engine... run at idle only and at least for 5 minutes
check water pump...steady flow must be coming from hole
then leave motor in vertical position (after shut off) to completely drain
the powerhead.

That's word for word from the operators manual.

Flushing an outboard motor
 

Don White wrote:
"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 4 Jan 2008 01:42:15 -0800 (PST), Matty F
wrote:

I would guess that it makes no difference to the flushing quality, and
I reckon it's unnecessary and dangerous to have the motor in gear with
the prop turning while flushing.
It also has to do with getting water to the engine. With the prop in
gear, in a confined space, there is decreased water flow to the
engine.

There is no need to turn the prop anyway.


I just looked up the manual for my 1994 Johnson 25 2 stroke.
The recommend:
placing engine in vertical position in area with good ventilation and
drainage
cover two small holes on either side of gear case with tape to make sure
enough water travels to the powerhead... remembering to uncover after
flushing
install flushing device & garden hose
place shift lever in neutral and remove prop
start water... keeping pressure between 20 and 40 psi
start engine... run at idle only and at least for 5 minutes
check water pump...steady flow must be coming from hole
then leave motor in vertical position (after shut off) to completely drain
the powerhead.

That's word for word from the operators manual.




THat's a lotta work to flush an engine.

--
George W. Bush - the 43rd Best President Ever!

Flushing an outboard motor
 

"Don White" wrote in message
...

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 4 Jan 2008 01:42:15 -0800 (PST), Matty F
wrote:

I would guess that it makes no difference to the flushing quality, and
I reckon it's unnecessary and dangerous to have the motor in gear with
the prop turning while flushing.

It also has to do with getting water to the engine. With the prop in
gear, in a confined space, there is decreased water flow to the
engine.

There is no need to turn the prop anyway.


I just looked up the manual for my *1994* Johnson 25 2 stroke.
The recommend:
placing engine in vertical position in area with good ventilation and
drainage
cover two small holes on either side of gear case with tape to make sure
enough water travels to the powerhead... remembering to uncover after
flushing
install flushing device & garden hose
place shift lever in neutral and remove prop
start water... keeping pressure between 20 and 40 psi
start engine... run at idle only and at least for 5 minutes
check water pump...steady flow must be coming from hole
then leave motor in vertical position (after shut off) to completely drain
the powerhead.

That's word for word from the operators manual.


D'oh...better make that my *2004* Johnson 25hp.

Flushing an outboard motor
 

"HK" wrote in message
...
Don White wrote:
"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 4 Jan 2008 01:42:15 -0800 (PST), Matty F
wrote:

I would guess that it makes no difference to the flushing quality, and
I reckon it's unnecessary and dangerous to have the motor in gear with
the prop turning while flushing.
It also has to do with getting water to the engine. With the prop in
gear, in a confined space, there is decreased water flow to the
engine.

There is no need to turn the prop anyway.


I just looked up the manual for my *2004* Johnson 25 2 stroke.
The recommend:
placing engine in vertical position in area with good ventilation and
drainage
cover two small holes on either side of gear case with tape to make sure
enough water travels to the powerhead... remembering to uncover after
flushing
install flushing device & garden hose
place shift lever in neutral and remove prop
start water... keeping pressure between 20 and 40 psi
start engine... run at idle only and at least for 5 minutes
check water pump...steady flow must be coming from hole
then leave motor in vertical position (after shut off) to completely
drain the powerhead.

That's word for word from the operators manual.


THat's a lotta work to flush an engine.

--

Sure is... I didn't remove the propeller when I flushed in October while
winterizing and I'm pretty sure I didn't cover the two little holes.
All seemed to work ok.

Flushing an outboard motor
 

Flushing an outboard motor
 

Flushing an outboard motor
 

On Jan 5, 5:24*am, wrote:

To flush my Yamaha, here is what I do:

Attach garden hose to fitting built into the motor and turn on water.
Do NOT run motor while doing this.

Drink a beer

Turn off water and unscrew hose.

That sounds a lot easier than trying to run the motor in a vat of
water.
Currently we use the motors every week day and flush them before the
weekends.
We are about to get new motors and I don't know the brand yet.
Using the above method we could flush them every day. I'll check with
the manual when it arrives.