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#1
posted to rec.boats
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Flushing an outboard motor
I use a plastic barrel with fresh water in it to flush our two-stroke
Mariner outboards. I've searched and read many instructions for flushing an outboard motor, but to my surprise I have not seen a single mention about whether the prop should be turning or not. I would guess that it makes no difference to the flushing quality, and I reckon it's unnecessary and dangerous to have the motor in gear with the prop turning while flushing. Is there anyone out there who thinks the prop should be turning? I ask only because the people who have been doing the flushing for years do have it turning, and I know they are going to argue with me. No I'm not interested in discussing using a garden hose or muffs thanks. |
#2
posted to rec.boats
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Flushing an outboard motor
On Fri, 4 Jan 2008 01:42:15 -0800 (PST), Matty F
wrote: I would guess that it makes no difference to the flushing quality, and I reckon it's unnecessary and dangerous to have the motor in gear with the prop turning while flushing. It also has to do with getting water to the engine. With the prop in gear, in a confined space, there is decreased water flow to the engine. There is no need to turn the prop anyway. |
#3
posted to rec.boats
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Flushing an outboard motor
"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message ... On Fri, 4 Jan 2008 01:42:15 -0800 (PST), Matty F wrote: I would guess that it makes no difference to the flushing quality, and I reckon it's unnecessary and dangerous to have the motor in gear with the prop turning while flushing. It also has to do with getting water to the engine. With the prop in gear, in a confined space, there is decreased water flow to the engine. There is no need to turn the prop anyway. I just looked up the manual for my 1994 Johnson 25 2 stroke. The recommend: placing engine in vertical position in area with good ventilation and drainage cover two small holes on either side of gear case with tape to make sure enough water travels to the powerhead... remembering to uncover after flushing install flushing device & garden hose place shift lever in neutral and remove prop start water... keeping pressure between 20 and 40 psi start engine... run at idle only and at least for 5 minutes check water pump...steady flow must be coming from hole then leave motor in vertical position (after shut off) to completely drain the powerhead. That's word for word from the operators manual. |
#4
posted to rec.boats
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Flushing an outboard motor
Don White wrote:
"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message ... On Fri, 4 Jan 2008 01:42:15 -0800 (PST), Matty F wrote: I would guess that it makes no difference to the flushing quality, and I reckon it's unnecessary and dangerous to have the motor in gear with the prop turning while flushing. It also has to do with getting water to the engine. With the prop in gear, in a confined space, there is decreased water flow to the engine. There is no need to turn the prop anyway. I just looked up the manual for my 1994 Johnson 25 2 stroke. The recommend: placing engine in vertical position in area with good ventilation and drainage cover two small holes on either side of gear case with tape to make sure enough water travels to the powerhead... remembering to uncover after flushing install flushing device & garden hose place shift lever in neutral and remove prop start water... keeping pressure between 20 and 40 psi start engine... run at idle only and at least for 5 minutes check water pump...steady flow must be coming from hole then leave motor in vertical position (after shut off) to completely drain the powerhead. That's word for word from the operators manual. THat's a lotta work to flush an engine. -- George W. Bush - the 43rd Best President Ever! |
#5
posted to rec.boats
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Flushing an outboard motor
"HK" wrote in message ... Don White wrote: "Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message ... On Fri, 4 Jan 2008 01:42:15 -0800 (PST), Matty F wrote: I would guess that it makes no difference to the flushing quality, and I reckon it's unnecessary and dangerous to have the motor in gear with the prop turning while flushing. It also has to do with getting water to the engine. With the prop in gear, in a confined space, there is decreased water flow to the engine. There is no need to turn the prop anyway. I just looked up the manual for my *2004* Johnson 25 2 stroke. The recommend: placing engine in vertical position in area with good ventilation and drainage cover two small holes on either side of gear case with tape to make sure enough water travels to the powerhead... remembering to uncover after flushing install flushing device & garden hose place shift lever in neutral and remove prop start water... keeping pressure between 20 and 40 psi start engine... run at idle only and at least for 5 minutes check water pump...steady flow must be coming from hole then leave motor in vertical position (after shut off) to completely drain the powerhead. That's word for word from the operators manual. THat's a lotta work to flush an engine. -- Sure is... I didn't remove the propeller when I flushed in October while winterizing and I'm pretty sure I didn't cover the two little holes. All seemed to work ok. |
#6
posted to rec.boats
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Flushing an outboard motor
"Don White" wrote in message ... "Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message ... On Fri, 4 Jan 2008 01:42:15 -0800 (PST), Matty F wrote: I would guess that it makes no difference to the flushing quality, and I reckon it's unnecessary and dangerous to have the motor in gear with the prop turning while flushing. It also has to do with getting water to the engine. With the prop in gear, in a confined space, there is decreased water flow to the engine. There is no need to turn the prop anyway. I just looked up the manual for my *1994* Johnson 25 2 stroke. The recommend: placing engine in vertical position in area with good ventilation and drainage cover two small holes on either side of gear case with tape to make sure enough water travels to the powerhead... remembering to uncover after flushing install flushing device & garden hose place shift lever in neutral and remove prop start water... keeping pressure between 20 and 40 psi start engine... run at idle only and at least for 5 minutes check water pump...steady flow must be coming from hole then leave motor in vertical position (after shut off) to completely drain the powerhead. That's word for word from the operators manual. D'oh...better make that my *2004* Johnson 25hp. |
#7
posted to rec.boats
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Flushing an outboard motor
On Jan 5, 5:24*am, wrote:
To flush my Yamaha, here is what I do: Attach garden hose to fitting built into the motor and turn on water. Do NOT run motor while doing this. Drink a beer Turn off water and unscrew hose. That sounds a lot easier than trying to run the motor in a vat of water. Currently we use the motors every week day and flush them before the weekends. We are about to get new motors and I don't know the brand yet. Using the above method we could flush them every day. I'll check with the manual when it arrives. |
#9
posted to rec.boats
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Flushing an outboard motor
wrote:
On Fri, 04 Jan 2008 19:51:29 -0500, Dan wrote: wrote: On Fri, 04 Jan 2008 13:40:42 -0500, wrote: On Fri, 04 Jan 2008 11:24:30 -0500, wrote: To flush my Yamaha, here is what I do: Attach garden hose to fitting built into the motor and turn on water. Do NOT run motor while doing this. Drink a beer Turn off water and unscrew hose. If you don't run the motor long enough to open the thermostat you are not really flushing the powerhead, only the water manifold. There may be some exchange with the water in the powerhead but there will be pockets that remain. The Yamaha was designed and built with this method of flushing. It's not an afterthought, and you do NOT need to run the motor to properly flush it. In fact, that would be a bad thing to do! How could it be bad? It's no different than running it in the water. I have the built in connection but I still prefer to run it. Your water pump may feel differently about that. I don't get your point. When you idle in the water or a tub there's nothing but the impeller (water pump) forcing water though the motor. On muffs or with the quick connect there's +/- 50psi of water forcing itself through the motor. I have a 4 stroke "Yamamercury". Yamaha on top - Merc on the bottom. |
#10
posted to rec.boats
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Flushing an outboard motor
Is there anyone out there who thinks the prop should be turning? I ask
only because the people who have been doing the flushing for years do have it turning, and I know they are going to argue with me. I likewise flush my 6hp dinghy outboard using a trashcan and a wood block jig mounted on a handcart. If the water exits via the usual 'pee' stream then it wouldn't seem to matter. I've run mine both in and out of gear and the stream was unchanged. It would seem unlikely it'd make much difference. That and unless you're cranking it full throttle I can't see it doing much to starve the intake of water. |
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