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![]() "Chuck Gould" wrote in message ups.com... On Nov 7, 5:20?pm, "Eisboch" wrote: "Chuck Gould" wrote in message If you're running a genset or hooked to shorepower, you can easily power a 30-amp converter. Let's say your converter is divided into two legs, with 15-amps per side for the house and starting batteries. The converter will easily replace any of the energy used by the refrigerator at a rate that is as fast or faster than the refrigerator draws it down. I would be at least slightly surprised to learn that you use only 110-volt lightbulbs, etc etc while underway to avoid draining the battery. If the compressor runs 15-20 minutes per hour, it's using relatively little DC as well and you're simply running on the "top" of the battery. It's been years since I had AC power to my refrigerator freezer, and my current batteries are about five years old and still going very, very strong. My setup is a little bigger than your example, but your point is valid. The problem with running a large refrig on batteries is that if you happen to lose shore power for a day or two in your absence, your battery or batteries (depending on your setup) is toast. On a couple of occasions I've arrived at the boat only to find that a overnight guest in the next slip inadvertantly shut the circuit breaker off on the pedestal for my boat. I'd rather replace what little was in the refrig than have to prematurely replace those big honkin' batteries again. Oh ... mine are going on 6 years and still are very strong. The original batteries were replaced after two years of service, mainly because they were allowed to go dry and would not recharge fully (boat was in Florida). Eisboch |
#2
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![]() "Eisboch" wrote in message ... "Chuck Gould" wrote in message ups.com... On Nov 7, 5:20?pm, "Eisboch" wrote: "Chuck Gould" wrote in message If you're running a genset or hooked to shorepower, you can easily power a 30-amp converter. Let's say your converter is divided into two legs, with 15-amps per side for the house and starting batteries. The converter will easily replace any of the energy used by the refrigerator at a rate that is as fast or faster than the refrigerator draws it down. I would be at least slightly surprised to learn that you use only 110-volt lightbulbs, etc etc while underway to avoid draining the battery. If the compressor runs 15-20 minutes per hour, it's using relatively little DC as well and you're simply running on the "top" of the battery. It's been years since I had AC power to my refrigerator freezer, and my current batteries are about five years old and still going very, very strong. My setup is a little bigger than your example, but your point is valid. The problem with running a large refrig on batteries is that if you happen to lose shore power for a day or two in your absence, your battery or batteries (depending on your setup) is toast. On a couple of occasions I've arrived at the boat only to find that a overnight guest in the next slip inadvertantly shut the circuit breaker off on the pedestal for my boat. I'd rather replace what little was in the refrig than have to prematurely replace those big honkin' batteries again. Oh ... mine are going on 6 years and still are very strong. The original batteries were replaced after two years of service, mainly because they were allowed to go dry and would not recharge fully (boat was in Florida). Eisboch Running a small refrig on batteries sux also. Before I put an isolator between the truck and the camper, I forgot to switch from DC to propane when overnighting at a state campground without power. Killed both the camper battery and both the batteries in my diesel truck. After a couple hours AAA got there to give us a jump. And my Refer / Freezer is about 3 cubic foot. |
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