"Jim" wrote in message
...
Wayne.B wrote:
On Wed, 07 Nov 2007 14:47:42 -0800, Jim wrote:


My Norcold DF0704 stopped working on 110. Seems to work fine on 12 volt.
It was probably original with the boat, so it must be 20 years old.

Replace or repair?

It looks like that model isn't made any more and what I see (on a very
quick look) shows that none of the new ones fit the cutout.

Maybe i just haven't found the right one yet.

What have you all done?


If it's still running on 12 volts that means that the
compressor/condenser is still OK, which is at the heart of the unit.
You could either try to troubleshoot the electrical problem or
continue running it on 12 volts by beefing up your charging system if
necessary.

That's what I'm doing right now, and it seems to be working ok. It is an
old unit, newer ones are more energy efficient and maybe quieter.
Hopefully.

The latch is broken, it's time for a new one.


I missed the part of your post that Wayne pointed out. These refridgerators
run on 12-24 volts DC. When powered by 120vac, there is a converter that
steps it to the 12volts. It would seem that's the component that is bad on
yours.

Still, IMO, at 20 years old, it probably isn't worth the cost to fix. I'd
replace it. It certainly doesn't owe you anything.

Eisboch

"Chuck Gould" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Nov 7, 2:47?pm, Jim wrote:
My Norcold DF0704 stopped working on 110. Seems to work fine on 12
volt. It was probably original with the boat, so it must be 20 years
old.

Replace or repair?

It looks like that model isn't made any more and what I see (on a very
quick look) shows that none of the new ones fit the cutout.

Maybe i just haven't found the right one yet.

What have you all done?

Thanks


Here's a possible surprise for you- your Norcold never ran on 110
volts.

Your compressor etc runs on 9-volts DC. There is a step down
transformer to convert the 110 AC to 9 volts DC. There is another to
step down to 9 volts on the DC side.

There is really no reason to run your fridge on AC. If you have AC
available, (either from shorepower or an onboard generator) you can
recharge the battery faster than the fridge will draw it down.

When we replaced our little 6 cu ft fridge a few years ago I saved a
couple of hundred bucks by not getting the AC/DC model and going DC
only......as that's the way those units all work, anyway.


I think differently. I'd rather run it on 120 vac when dockside and take
that load off the batteries and charger. In fact, while underway I almost
always run the genset as well, so the refrig rarely, if ever, runs off the
batteries. Depending on the size, the refrig can represent quite a large
load amp wise at 12 vdc. I am of the school that batteries life is affected
by high charge/discharge rates.

No particular scientific reason .... I just believe that.

Eisboch

Eisboch wrote:
"Jim" wrote in message
...

Wayne.B wrote:

On Wed, 07 Nov 2007 14:47:42 -0800, Jim wrote:



My Norcold DF0704 stopped working on 110. Seems to work fine on 12 volt.
It was probably original with the boat, so it must be 20 years old.

Replace or repair?

It looks like that model isn't made any more and what I see (on a very
quick look) shows that none of the new ones fit the cutout.

Maybe i just haven't found the right one yet.

What have you all done?


If it's still running on 12 volts that means that the
compressor/condenser is still OK, which is at the heart of the unit.
You could either try to troubleshoot the electrical problem or
continue running it on 12 volts by beefing up your charging system if
necessary.

That's what I'm doing right now, and it seems to be working ok. It is an
old unit, newer ones are more energy efficient and maybe quieter.
Hopefully.

The latch is broken, it's time for a new one.



I missed the part of your post that Wayne pointed out. These refridgerators
run on 12-24 volts DC. When powered by 120vac, there is a converter that
steps it to the 12volts. It would seem that's the component that is bad on
yours.

Still, IMO, at 20 years old, it probably isn't worth the cost to fix. I'd
replace it. It certainly doesn't owe you anything.

Eisboch


I'm ore than willing to replace it. Everything i have seen so far
won't fit the cutout unless it's SMALLER.

Chuck Gould wrote:

On Nov 7, 2:47?pm, Jim wrote:

My Norcold DF0704 stopped working on 110. Seems to work fine on 12
volt. It was probably original with the boat, so it must be 20 years old.

Replace or repair?

It looks like that model isn't made any more and what I see (on a very
quick look) shows that none of the new ones fit the cutout.

Maybe i just haven't found the right one yet.

What have you all done?

Thanks



Here's a possible surprise for you- your Norcold never ran on 110
volts.

Your compressor etc runs on 9-volts DC. There is a step down
transformer to convert the 110 AC to 9 volts DC. There is another to
step down to 9 volts on the DC side.

There is really no reason to run your fridge on AC. If you have AC
available, (either from shorepower or an onboard generator) you can
recharge the battery faster than the fridge will draw it down.

When we replaced our little 6 cu ft fridge a few years ago I saved a
couple of hundred bucks by not getting the AC/DC model and going DC
only......as that's the way those units all work, anyway.

Thank you, you confirmed my suspicion. I was afraid had a built in
inverter that converted 12 volt to 110.

I pulled it out and will try to figure it out tomorrow.

It is time for a new one. If anyone could provide specific models that
replace the Nolongercold DE 704 I'd appreciate it.

"Jim" wrote in message
...


It is time for a new one. If anyone could provide specific models that
replace the Nolongercold DE 704 I'd appreciate it.

Do you have the cutout numbers handy?

Eisboch

"Eisboch" wrote in message
...

"Jim" wrote in message
...


It is time for a new one. If anyone could provide specific models that
replace the Nolongercold DE 704 I'd appreciate it.

Do you have the cutout numbers handy?

Eisboch


I found a boating forum in which a guy replaced a Norcold DE 704 with
something called a Ocean C115Ai with no modifications to the cutout other
than a small filler. He and others were very satisfied with whatever the
Ocean C115Ai is. You might find who makes it via Google.

Eisboch

"Jim" wrote in message
...


It is time for a new one. If anyone could provide specific models that
replace the Nolongercold DE 704 I'd appreciate it.



Jim, check this discussion out:

http://lists.samurai.com/pipermail/s...ly/004020.html

Eisboch

Eisboch wrote:
"Jim" wrote in message
...


It is time for a new one. If anyone could provide specific models that
replace the Nolongercold DE 704 I'd appreciate it.


Do you have the cutout numbers handy?

Eisboch


Approximately 22 1/2 wide x 33 1/2 high x 27 deep.

Eisboch wrote:

"Jim" wrote in message
...


It is time for a new one. If anyone could provide specific models that
replace the Nolongercold DE 704 I'd appreciate it.



Jim, check this discussion out:

http://lists.samurai.com/pipermail/s...ly/004020.html

Eisboch


Saw this one this afternoon. His old refer was 2.7 cu ft. ! That must
have been the de 451.

He mentions no specific replacement model. The website shows a bunch of
models. I looked at all of them. No corresponding cutout sizes.

It looked like the closest fit was much smaller than my old unit.

On Nov 7, 5:20?pm, "Eisboch" wrote:
"Chuck Gould" wrote in message

oups.com...





On Nov 7, 2:47?pm, Jim wrote:
My Norcold DF0704 stopped working on 110. Seems to work fine on 12
volt. It was probably original with the boat, so it must be 20 years
old.

Replace or repair?

It looks like that model isn't made any more and what I see (on a very
quick look) shows that none of the new ones fit the cutout.

Maybe i just haven't found the right one yet.

What have you all done?

Thanks

Here's a possible surprise for you- your Norcold never ran on 110
volts.

Your compressor etc runs on 9-volts DC. There is a step down
transformer to convert the 110 AC to 9 volts DC. There is another to
step down to 9 volts on the DC side.

There is really no reason to run your fridge on AC. If you have AC
available, (either from shorepower or an onboard generator) you can
recharge the battery faster than the fridge will draw it down.

When we replaced our little 6 cu ft fridge a few years ago I saved a
couple of hundred bucks by not getting the AC/DC model and going DC
only......as that's the way those units all work, anyway.

I think differently. I'd rather run it on 120 vac when dockside and take
that load off the batteries and charger. In fact, while underway I almost
always run the genset as well, so the refrig rarely, if ever, runs off the
batteries. Depending on the size, the refrig can represent quite a large
load amp wise at 12 vdc. I am of the school that batteries life is affected
by high charge/discharge rates.

No particular scientific reason .... I just believe that.

Eisboch- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

If you're running a genset or hooked to shorepower, you can easily
power a 30-amp converter. Let's say your converter is divided into two
legs, with 15-amps per side for the house and starting batteries. The
converter will easily replace any of the energy used by the
refrigerator at a rate that is as fast or faster than the refrigerator
draws it down. I would be at least slightly surprised to learn that
you use only 110-volt lightbulbs, etc etc while underway to avoid
draining the battery. If the compressor runs 15-20 minutes per hour,
it's using relatively little DC as well and you're simply running on
the "top" of the battery.

It's been years since I had AC power to my refrigerator freezer, and
my current batteries are about five years old and still going very,
very strong.