On Nov 7, 5:25?pm, Jim wrote:
Chuck Gould wrote:
On Nov 7, 2:47?pm, Jim wrote:

My Norcold DF0704 stopped working on 110. Seems to work fine on 12
volt. It was probably original with the boat, so it must be 20 years old.

Replace or repair?

It looks like that model isn't made any more and what I see (on a very
quick look) shows that none of the new ones fit the cutout.

Maybe i just haven't found the right one yet.

What have you all done?

Thanks

Here's a possible surprise for you- your Norcold never ran on 110
volts.

Your compressor etc runs on 9-volts DC. There is a step down
transformer to convert the 110 AC to 9 volts DC. There is another to
step down to 9 volts on the DC side.

There is really no reason to run your fridge on AC. If you have AC
available, (either from shorepower or an onboard generator) you can
recharge the battery faster than the fridge will draw it down.

When we replaced our little 6 cu ft fridge a few years ago I saved a
couple of hundred bucks by not getting the AC/DC model and going DC
only......as that's the way those units all work, anyway.

Thank you, you confirmed my suspicion. I was afraid had a built in
inverter that converted 12 volt to 110.

I pulled it out and will try to figure it out tomorrow.

It is time for a new one. If anyone could provide specific models that
replace the Nolongercold DE 704 I'd appreciate it.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

This would be my recommendation:

http://www.seafreezeinc.com/products/refrigerators.html

You will see that one of the units is a direct replacement for the 704
series.

I have one of these refrigerators on my boat. It's super. The company
that builds it also has a division that makes refrigeration for
commercial fishing vessels.

The compressor is removed from the case itself, significantly
increasing the capacity at any give cu ft rating. My old unit was not
as deep as the cutout because the compressor was mounted on the
backside, and was not as tall as the cutout because the transformer
etc was located underneath. The SeaFreeze fill the entire space, and
the compressor (larger andmore efficient) is located in the engine
room.

Plan on a power consumption of about 25 amps per 24 hour day.

On Wed, 07 Nov 2007 20:46:57 -0800, Chuck Gould
wrote:

Plan on a power consumption of about 25 amps per 24 hour day.

I believe you mean 25 Amp-Hours.

"Chuck Gould" wrote in message
ups.com...

On Nov 7, 5:20?pm, "Eisboch" wrote:
"Chuck Gould" wrote in message

If you're running a genset or hooked to shorepower, you can easily
power a 30-amp converter. Let's say your converter is divided into two
legs, with 15-amps per side for the house and starting batteries. The
converter will easily replace any of the energy used by the
refrigerator at a rate that is as fast or faster than the refrigerator
draws it down. I would be at least slightly surprised to learn that
you use only 110-volt lightbulbs, etc etc while underway to avoid
draining the battery. If the compressor runs 15-20 minutes per hour,
it's using relatively little DC as well and you're simply running on
the "top" of the battery.

It's been years since I had AC power to my refrigerator freezer, and
my current batteries are about five years old and still going very,
very strong.


My setup is a little bigger than your example, but your point is valid. The
problem with running a large refrig on batteries is that if you happen to
lose shore power for a day or two in your absence, your battery or
batteries (depending on your setup) is toast. On a couple of occasions I've
arrived at the boat only to find that a overnight guest in the next slip
inadvertantly shut the circuit breaker off on the pedestal for my boat.

I'd rather replace what little was in the refrig than have to prematurely
replace those big honkin' batteries again.

Oh ... mine are going on 6 years and still are very strong. The original
batteries were replaced after two years of service, mainly because they were
allowed to go dry and would not recharge fully (boat was in Florida).

Eisboch

I had a similar problem with my refridgerator a few years ago where it would
only run on either AC or DC (cannot recall now), but it was a simple fix.
There is a small relay accessible on the back (just sliding the fridge out
from its home) and it had failed. The fridge circuit is designed so the
relay recognized when AC is available (shore power plugged in) so it would
switch over from DC to AC or vice versa. Try checking out your relay,
unless you prefer purchasing a complete new unit.

Mark

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 07 Nov 2007 14:47:42 -0800, Jim wrote:

My Norcold DF0704 stopped working on 110. Seems to work fine on 12
volt. It was probably original with the boat, so it must be 20 years old.

Replace or repair?

It looks like that model isn't made any more and what I see (on a very
quick look) shows that none of the new ones fit the cutout.

Maybe i just haven't found the right one yet.

What have you all done?

If it's still running on 12 volts that means that the
compressor/condenser is still OK, which is at the heart of the unit.
You could either try to troubleshoot the electrical problem or
continue running it on 12 volts by beefing up your charging system if
necessary.

So, maybe fixing it is not such a bad idea after all. I doubt the 115 power
supply is much more sophisticated than a transformer and a bridge rectifier.

"Jim" wrote in message
...
Eisboch wrote:

"Jim" wrote in message
...


It is time for a new one. If anyone could provide specific models that
replace the Nolongercold DE 704 I'd appreciate it.



Jim, check this discussion out:

http://lists.samurai.com/pipermail/s...ly/004020.html

Eisboch
Saw this one this afternoon. His old refer was 2.7 cu ft. ! That must
have been the de 451.

He mentions no specific replacement model. The website shows a bunch of
models. I looked at all of them. No corresponding cutout sizes.

It looked like the closest fit was much smaller than my old unit.

"Jim" wrote in message ...
My Norcold DF0704 stopped working on 110. Seems to work fine on 12
volt. It was probably original with the boat, so it must be 20 years old.

Replace or repair?

It looks like that model isn't made any more and what I see (on a very
quick look) shows that none of the new ones fit the cutout.

Maybe i just haven't found the right one yet.

What have you all done?

Thanks


Check he

http://www.bryantrv.com/


This guy has documentation and troubleshooting on his site.


db

On Nov 7, 5:47 pm, Jim wrote:
My Norcold DF0704 stopped working on 110. Seems to work fine on 12
volt. It was probably original with the boat, so it must be 20 years old.

Replace or repair?

It looks like that model isn't made any more and what I see (on a very
quick look) shows that none of the new ones fit the cutout.

Maybe i just haven't found the right one yet.

What have you all done?

Thanks

Take a good look at the bottom of the unit, in the front, you may have
to remove a cover to do it but look for a small red button. If you see
it press it in, that's the reset button. It might solve your problem.

If that doesn't work, check the 110 volt power input.

That unit run's on 12 volts. It has a 12 volt DC power supply that
runs off 110 volts. When you apply 110 volts a relay cuts out the 12
volt input from the boat and supplies 12 volts from the power supply,
on older units like yours you should hear a clicking noise when you
turn on the 110 volts, if your not the relay might be bad. If you do
hear the clicking the relay is probably good, but their's something
wrong with your power supply. You could:

Have the power supply replaced or repaired.
Buy a small inverter that's big enough to handle the
refrigerator and wire it in.
Leave it like it is and let your charger take care of the
power when your at the dock.
Fork over about $1000 for a new unit.

If I couldn't fix it I'd leave it the way it is until the day it dies
and spend the $1000 on something else. It's your money.

John

Mark wrote:
I had a similar problem with my refridgerator a few years ago where it would
only run on either AC or DC (cannot recall now), but it was a simple fix.
There is a small relay accessible on the back (just sliding the fridge out
from its home) and it had failed. The fridge circuit is designed so the
relay recognized when AC is available (shore power plugged in) so it would
switch over from DC to AC or vice versa. Try checking out your relay,
unless you prefer purchasing a complete new unit.

Mark

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...

On Wed, 07 Nov 2007 14:47:42 -0800, Jim wrote:


My Norcold DF0704 stopped working on 110. Seems to work fine on 12
volt. It was probably original with the boat, so it must be 20 years old.

Replace or repair?

It looks like that model isn't made any more and what I see (on a very
quick look) shows that none of the new ones fit the cutout.

Maybe i just haven't found the right one yet.

What have you all done?

If it's still running on 12 volts that means that the
compressor/condenser is still OK, which is at the heart of the unit.
You could either try to troubleshoot the electrical problem or
continue running it on 12 volts by beefing up your charging system if
necessary.



The ac shows a high drain, then trips the breaker. The dc works just fine.

I'm sure it's a simple fix, if I were smart enough to find and order the
correct part. Since it works on dc, I'll probably leave it as is and
look for a new one.

It's missing a lot of door screws, the door latch is long gone, it's
noisy and probably draws more than a newer design would. While it may
work, and it's probably fixable, common sense says, look for a new one.

When you are not in a hurry you are more likely to make a good decision.

This would be my recommendation:

http://www.seafreezeinc.com/products/refrigerators.html

You will see that one of the units is a direct replacement for the 704
series.

I have one of these refrigerators on my boat. It's super. The company
that builds it also has a division that makes refrigeration for
commercial fishing vessels.

The compressor is removed from the case itself, significantly
increasing the capacity at any give cu ft rating. My old unit was not
as deep as the cutout because the compressor was mounted on the
backside, and was not as tall as the cutout because the transformer
etc was located underneath. The SeaFreeze fill the entire space, and
the compressor (larger andmore efficient) is located in the engine
room.

Plan on a power consumption of about 25 amps per 24 hour day.




More interior space with less power consumption

I like it a LOT. Thanks!

This would be my recommendation:

http://www.seafreezeinc.com/products/refrigerators.html


RF - 500 DC $1,625

Not a deal breaker, but that's a lot for a small refer.