Best cleaner for river slime
 

On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 08:29:22 -0400, HK wrote:

thunder wrote:
On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 07:35:47 -0500, John H. wrote:


I defer to your expertise. But why go with a cheap AMD?

AMD is no longer the "cheap" chip, and hasn't been for several years. Using benchmarks, AMD
has given Intel a run for the money. It seems, lately, the speed lead has been switching back
and forth, with every new generation of chip.

http://www23.tomshardware.com/cpu_2007.html


The cheap AMD chips are cheap indeed, but there's nothing wrong with
them, and the high-end AMD chips are as thunder sez.

You are undoubtedly correct. But, when you were telling us about the
computer you were building, didn't you say you were using an Intell chip?

Best cleaner for river slime
 

John H. wrote:
On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 09:26:52 -0400, HK wrote:

John H. wrote:
On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 08:40:07 -0400, HK wrote:

John H. wrote:
On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 08:29:22 -0400, HK wrote:

thunder wrote:
On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 07:35:47 -0500, John H. wrote:


I defer to your expertise. But why go with a cheap AMD?
AMD is no longer the "cheap" chip, and hasn't been for several years. Using benchmarks, AMD
has given Intel a run for the money. It seems, lately, the speed lead has been switching back
and forth, with every new generation of chip.

http://www23.tomshardware.com/cpu_2007.html
The cheap AMD chips are cheap indeed, but there's nothing wrong with
them, and the high-end AMD chips are as thunder sez.
You are undoubtedly correct. But, when you were telling us about the
computer you were building, didn't you say you were using an Intell chip?
Yup. But unless you are a high-end gamer or use certain
processor-optimized apps (of which there are almost none), you're not
going to notice any speed difference between a high-end Intel and a
high-end AMD CPU. The only computer game I have installed on this
desktop is MS Golf.
Well! That explains both.

Better greens fees with MS Golf. I shoot in the low 60's.

Per hour, per day, per 18, or what?

Now I know how you got that 79 the first time you played a round! If, as
many seem to think, golf is so boring in the real world, wouldn't it be
totally boring in the virtual world?


Per 18, silly!

It's less boring on the pc, because it helps me with small motor
movements and hand-eye coordination. really.

Best cleaner for river slime
 

John H. wrote:
On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 09:41:24 -0400, HK wrote:

John H. wrote:
On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 09:26:52 -0400, HK wrote:

John H. wrote:
On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 08:40:07 -0400, HK wrote:

John H. wrote:
On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 08:29:22 -0400, HK wrote:

thunder wrote:
On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 07:35:47 -0500, John H. wrote:


I defer to your expertise. But why go with a cheap AMD?
AMD is no longer the "cheap" chip, and hasn't been for several years. Using benchmarks, AMD
has given Intel a run for the money. It seems, lately, the speed lead has been switching back
and forth, with every new generation of chip.

http://www23.tomshardware.com/cpu_2007.html
The cheap AMD chips are cheap indeed, but there's nothing wrong with
them, and the high-end AMD chips are as thunder sez.
You are undoubtedly correct. But, when you were telling us about the
computer you were building, didn't you say you were using an Intell chip?
Yup. But unless you are a high-end gamer or use certain
processor-optimized apps (of which there are almost none), you're not
going to notice any speed difference between a high-end Intel and a
high-end AMD CPU. The only computer game I have installed on this
desktop is MS Golf.
Well! That explains both.
Better greens fees with MS Golf. I shoot in the low 60's.
Per hour, per day, per 18, or what?

Now I know how you got that 79 the first time you played a round! If, as
many seem to think, golf is so boring in the real world, wouldn't it be
totally boring in the virtual world?

Per 18, silly!

It's less boring on the pc, because it helps me with small motor
movements and hand-eye coordination. really.

Yeah, but you don't get to walk 6500 yards. Actually I walk a lot further
because I *never* take the shortest route from the t-box to the green. I
like to practice 'M's and W's' while chasing my ball.


I won't dispute the benefits of walking a golf course.

Best cleaner for river slime
 

On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 08:40:07 -0400, HK wrote:

John H. wrote:
On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 08:29:22 -0400, HK wrote:

thunder wrote:
On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 07:35:47 -0500, John H. wrote:


I defer to your expertise. But why go with a cheap AMD?
AMD is no longer the "cheap" chip, and hasn't been for several years. Using benchmarks, AMD
has given Intel a run for the money. It seems, lately, the speed lead has been switching back
and forth, with every new generation of chip.

http://www23.tomshardware.com/cpu_2007.html

The cheap AMD chips are cheap indeed, but there's nothing wrong with
them, and the high-end AMD chips are as thunder sez.

You are undoubtedly correct. But, when you were telling us about the
computer you were building, didn't you say you were using an Intell chip?

Yup. But unless you are a high-end gamer or use certain
processor-optimized apps (of which there are almost none), you're not
going to notice any speed difference between a high-end Intel and a
high-end AMD CPU. The only computer game I have installed on this
desktop is MS Golf.

Well! That explains both.

Best cleaner for river slime
 

On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 09:26:52 -0400, HK wrote:

John H. wrote:
On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 08:40:07 -0400, HK wrote:

John H. wrote:
On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 08:29:22 -0400, HK wrote:

thunder wrote:
On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 07:35:47 -0500, John H. wrote:


I defer to your expertise. But why go with a cheap AMD?
AMD is no longer the "cheap" chip, and hasn't been for several years. Using benchmarks, AMD
has given Intel a run for the money. It seems, lately, the speed lead has been switching back
and forth, with every new generation of chip.

http://www23.tomshardware.com/cpu_2007.html
The cheap AMD chips are cheap indeed, but there's nothing wrong with
them, and the high-end AMD chips are as thunder sez.
You are undoubtedly correct. But, when you were telling us about the
computer you were building, didn't you say you were using an Intell chip?
Yup. But unless you are a high-end gamer or use certain
processor-optimized apps (of which there are almost none), you're not
going to notice any speed difference between a high-end Intel and a
high-end AMD CPU. The only computer game I have installed on this
desktop is MS Golf.

Well! That explains both.


Better greens fees with MS Golf. I shoot in the low 60's.

Per hour, per day, per 18, or what?

Now I know how you got that 79 the first time you played a round! If, as
many seem to think, golf is so boring in the real world, wouldn't it be
totally boring in the virtual world?

Best cleaner for river slime
 

On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 09:41:24 -0400, HK wrote:

John H. wrote:
On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 09:26:52 -0400, HK wrote:

John H. wrote:
On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 08:40:07 -0400, HK wrote:

John H. wrote:
On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 08:29:22 -0400, HK wrote:

thunder wrote:
On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 07:35:47 -0500, John H. wrote:


I defer to your expertise. But why go with a cheap AMD?
AMD is no longer the "cheap" chip, and hasn't been for several years. Using benchmarks, AMD
has given Intel a run for the money. It seems, lately, the speed lead has been switching back
and forth, with every new generation of chip.

http://www23.tomshardware.com/cpu_2007.html
The cheap AMD chips are cheap indeed, but there's nothing wrong with
them, and the high-end AMD chips are as thunder sez.
You are undoubtedly correct. But, when you were telling us about the
computer you were building, didn't you say you were using an Intell chip?
Yup. But unless you are a high-end gamer or use certain
processor-optimized apps (of which there are almost none), you're not
going to notice any speed difference between a high-end Intel and a
high-end AMD CPU. The only computer game I have installed on this
desktop is MS Golf.
Well! That explains both.

Better greens fees with MS Golf. I shoot in the low 60's.

Per hour, per day, per 18, or what?

Now I know how you got that 79 the first time you played a round! If, as
many seem to think, golf is so boring in the real world, wouldn't it be
totally boring in the virtual world?


Per 18, silly!

It's less boring on the pc, because it helps me with small motor
movements and hand-eye coordination. really.

Yeah, but you don't get to walk 6500 yards. Actually I walk a lot further
because I *never* take the shortest route from the t-box to the green. I
like to practice 'M's and W's' while chasing my ball.

Best cleaner for river slime
 

On Oct 29, 7:47 am, "Reginald P. Smithers III"
wrote:
BAR wrote:
sherwindu wrote:
My experience with waxes are the easier they apply, the less
protection. I only use
waxes with Carbona. It isn't easy to apply, but it lasts a whole season.

Is that Carnuba? If it is then that put that in some cheap chocolates too.

Does it also protect your digestive tract?

Do you remember that long thread we had a number of years ago, about
what was the best wax for your car. As with so many NG threads it went
on for months. I wish I could remember who made the post about Zaino
and "sold" me on trying it. I owe them a beer and dinner.

It must have been me........depending on what's for dinner! Besides, I
live in the same area, making it easier to claim the rewards!

Best cleaner for river slime
 

Was out at the boat to put on the cover and button things up. I tried some of the
On and Off on some residual places the other cleaners could not clean. It really
works. Next season should be a lot easier.

By the way, I spent some time draining my fuel lines to the outboard and inline
filter of residual gasoline. I think that is one place where gas can go bad over
the
winter and screw things up the next season.

Sherwin

sherwindu wrote:

After pulling my boat from the Root River in Racine Wisconsin, I noticed that
there
was an ugly band of black gunk at the waterline, especially at the upstream side
of
the boat when it was in the slip. A power wash got the mud off, but this band
of
gunk stayed on. I had the same problem last year, and had to rub like hell with

all kinds of cleaners to get it off. Someone recommended using Tidy Bowl as a
cleaner, possibly because it contains Muratic Acid. I know that Muratic Acid is

used to clean and etch concrete, so I was wary to use it on my fiberglass hull.
Was I correct about this? Is there a better way to clean off this river junk?
I
have used Zud and other similar products, but they don't get everything off and
require a lot of elbow grease. Some of this gunk is on the bottom paint, as
well,
so I have to be careful not to dissolve that.

Sherwin

Best cleaner for river slime
 

sherwindu wrote:
Was out at the boat to put on the cover and button things up. I tried some of the
On and Off on some residual places the other cleaners could not clean. It really
works. Next season should be a lot easier.

By the way, I spent some time draining my fuel lines to the outboard and inline
filter of residual gasoline. I think that is one place where gas can go bad over
the
winter and screw things up the next season.


Sherwin,
You are correct that the old gas can cause real problems in the spring
time, but you really want to fill the tank with gas to reduce
condensation and add Fuel Stabilzer to the gas prior to pumping the gas
in. Then run the engine for 10 minutes to make sure you have the fuel
stabilizer in the filter and carbs/injectors.

After 10 min. fog the engine to prevent rust in the cylinders.
If this is a 4 stroke, while the engie is still warm, you will then want
to change the oil and filter. Boat/US used to have a nice write up on
how to winterize your boat and both I/O and OB engines.

Best cleaner for river slime
 

"Reginald P. Smithers III" wrote in message
. ..
sherwindu wrote:
Was out at the boat to put on the cover and button things up. I tried
some of the
On and Off on some residual places the other cleaners could not clean.
It really
works. Next season should be a lot easier.

By the way, I spent some time draining my fuel lines to the outboard and
inline
filter of residual gasoline. I think that is one place where gas can go
bad over
the
winter and screw things up the next season.


Sherwin,
You are correct that the old gas can cause real problems in the spring
time, but you really want to fill the tank with gas to reduce condensation
and add Fuel Stabilzer to the gas prior to pumping the gas in. Then run
the engine for 10 minutes to make sure you have the fuel stabilizer in the
filter and carbs/injectors.

After 10 min. fog the engine to prevent rust in the cylinders.
If this is a 4 stroke, while the engie is still warm, you will then want
to change the oil and filter. Boat/US used to have a nice write up on how
to winterize your boat and both I/O and OB engines.

I drain the manifolds and the sand trap if the weather is forecast to be
cold. Other than that, I use my boat during the winter. Fact is, crab
season starts Saturday.

Best cleaner for river slime
 

Reginald,

My lawnmower repair man, who has had lot's of experience with small engines,
insists that fuel stabilizers, like Stabil, do not last much longer than a few months.
If that is true, fuel with these stabilizers can go bad over the winter storage. My
outboard tank is removable, so next spring I will inspect it and let it dry out if
any water has condensed inside. I use Stabil in my fuel all season, so any traces
of gas in the engine possibly have some protection. However, I think the best
protection is to run the engine dry. I agree about the fogging though.

Sherwin

"Reginald P. Smithers III" wrote:

sherwindu wrote:
Was out at the boat to put on the cover and button things up. I tried some of the
On and Off on some residual places the other cleaners could not clean. It really
works. Next season should be a lot easier.

By the way, I spent some time draining my fuel lines to the outboard and inline
filter of residual gasoline. I think that is one place where gas can go bad over
the
winter and screw things up the next season.


Sherwin,
You are correct that the old gas can cause real problems in the spring
time, but you really want to fill the tank with gas to reduce
condensation and add Fuel Stabilzer to the gas prior to pumping the gas
in. Then run the engine for 10 minutes to make sure you have the fuel
stabilizer in the filter and carbs/injectors.

After 10 min. fog the engine to prevent rust in the cylinders.
If this is a 4 stroke, while the engie is still warm, you will then want
to change the oil and filter. Boat/US used to have a nice write up on
how to winterize your boat and both I/O and OB engines.