On Fri, 05 Oct 2007 07:22:01 -0500, John H.
wrote:

Yes, it is that. But it still goes for about 3000 miles before it will take
a quart of oil. That's even surprising to me, given that it's a GM.

None of my GM's were oil burners or leakers.

On Oct 4, 3:35?pm, John H. wrote:
http://tinyurl.com/29egny

Now don't everybody jump at once!

'Tis a brave man who posts his phone number in the NG. :-)

On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 15:29:00 -0700, Chuck Gould
wrote:

On Oct 4, 3:35?pm, John H. wrote:
http://tinyurl.com/29egny

Now don't everybody jump at once!

'Tis a brave man who posts his phone number in the NG. :-)

You think there's anyone here who can't use 'anywho'?

On Oct 4, 3:35?pm, John H. wrote:
http://tinyurl.com/29egny

Now don't everybody jump at once!

Seems like a fair price, but that stick shfit makes it less desirable
than an automatic as a light duty tow rig.
As we used to say in the car biz; "There's a butt for every seat."
Hope you find the right prospect.

On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 15:34:44 -0700, Chuck Gould
wrote:

On Oct 4, 3:35?pm, John H. wrote:
http://tinyurl.com/29egny

Now don't everybody jump at once!

Seems like a fair price, but that stick shfit makes it less desirable
than an automatic as a light duty tow rig.
As we used to say in the car biz; "There's a butt for every seat."
Hope you find the right prospect.

My thoughts are just the opposite. The first gear in this thing is a
'granny'...very low. I start, as per the book, in second gear, unless I'm
towing a load. The manual trans allows me to play the clutch and get
traction, even when the 4WD automatics are sliding into ditches during some
snow.

I wish I could have gotten the 4Runner with a manual trans.

On Oct 4, 4:44?pm, John H. wrote:
On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 15:34:44 -0700, Chuck Gould

wrote:
On Oct 4, 3:35?pm, John H. wrote:
http://tinyurl.com/29egny

Now don't everybody jump at once!

Seems like a fair price, but that stick shfit makes it less desirable
than an automatic as a light duty tow rig.
As we used to say in the car biz; "There's a butt for every seat."
Hope you find the right prospect.

My thoughts are just the opposite. The first gear in this thing is a
'granny'...very low. I start, as per the book, in second gear, unless I'm
towing a load. The manual trans allows me to play the clutch and get
traction, even when the 4WD automatics are sliding into ditches during some
snow.

I wish I could have gotten the 4Runner with a manual trans.

The granny is nice, better than 1,2,3,4 OD. But you alluded to the
weakness in the system with your reference to "slipping the clutch".
Most people will burn out a lot of clutches if they tow very often,
thereby
eliminating any savings in fuel economy or initial purchase price when
compared to the automatic.

While long haul tractors are manual transmissions and are designed
strictly for towing, it's a different scenario entirely. When I
learned to drive in the early 70's we had a Fuller Road Ranger
transmission with 15-gears (not 4-5) so the torque range for each gear
was pretty minimal. By carefully watching the tach we could time the
shifting so that we didn't even need to use the clutch except when
starting or stopping. If I remember correctly the shift points were at
1800 and 2200. To shift from 4th to 5th, for example, you would run
the RPM up to the 2200 level in 4th, pull the shifter into neutral,
back off the throttle to bring rpm down to 1800 and just as it got to
1800 shove the selector into 5th. Going down was the reverse, raise
the rpm to the upper end of the shifting range and then jam the next
lower gear into place. The transmissions didn't have "synchros" in the
typical sense, but the gears were sized so that
they would synchronize with the output shaft at the stated RPM. The
tricky bit with the 15-speed tranny was going between the lower and
upper halves of the shift pattern (Top gears were a repeat of the
lower gears, but with a hydraulic knob pulled).

With 12-18 gears to choose from, a manual is a pretty good choice for
towing. With only 4-5 gears between no-load and 80 MPH- I think the
progressive torque curve of an automatic is a better choice.

"Chuck Gould" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Oct 4, 4:44?pm, John H. wrote:
On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 15:34:44 -0700, Chuck Gould

wrote:
On Oct 4, 3:35?pm, John H. wrote:
http://tinyurl.com/29egny

Now don't everybody jump at once!

Seems like a fair price, but that stick shfit makes it less desirable
than an automatic as a light duty tow rig.
As we used to say in the car biz; "There's a butt for every seat."
Hope you find the right prospect.

My thoughts are just the opposite. The first gear in this thing is a
'granny'...very low. I start, as per the book, in second gear, unless I'm
towing a load. The manual trans allows me to play the clutch and get
traction, even when the 4WD automatics are sliding into ditches during
some
snow.

I wish I could have gotten the 4Runner with a manual trans.

The granny is nice, better than 1,2,3,4 OD. But you alluded to the
weakness in the system with your reference to "slipping the clutch".
Most people will burn out a lot of clutches if they tow very often,
thereby
eliminating any savings in fuel economy or initial purchase price when
compared to the automatic.

While long haul tractors are manual transmissions and are designed
strictly for towing, it's a different scenario entirely. When I
learned to drive in the early 70's we had a Fuller Road Ranger
transmission with 15-gears (not 4-5) so the torque range for each gear
was pretty minimal. By carefully watching the tach we could time the
shifting so that we didn't even need to use the clutch except when
starting or stopping. If I remember correctly the shift points were at
1800 and 2200. To shift from 4th to 5th, for example, you would run
the RPM up to the 2200 level in 4th, pull the shifter into neutral,
back off the throttle to bring rpm down to 1800 and just as it got to
1800 shove the selector into 5th. Going down was the reverse, raise
the rpm to the upper end of the shifting range and then jam the next
lower gear into place. The transmissions didn't have "synchros" in the
typical sense, but the gears were sized so that
they would synchronize with the output shaft at the stated RPM. The
tricky bit with the 15-speed tranny was going between the lower and
upper halves of the shift pattern (Top gears were a repeat of the
lower gears, but with a hydraulic knob pulled).

With 12-18 gears to choose from, a manual is a pretty good choice for
towing. With only 4-5 gears between no-load and 80 MPH- I think the
progressive torque curve of an automatic is a better choice.


When I leased the 2006 Ranger pickup the salesman said the automatic was a
better choice for towing with the 3.0 V6

On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 17:08:21 -0700, Chuck Gould
wrote:

On Oct 4, 4:44?pm, John H. wrote:
On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 15:34:44 -0700, Chuck Gould

wrote:
On Oct 4, 3:35?pm, John H. wrote:
http://tinyurl.com/29egny

Now don't everybody jump at once!

Seems like a fair price, but that stick shfit makes it less desirable
than an automatic as a light duty tow rig.
As we used to say in the car biz; "There's a butt for every seat."
Hope you find the right prospect.

My thoughts are just the opposite. The first gear in this thing is a
'granny'...very low. I start, as per the book, in second gear, unless I'm
towing a load. The manual trans allows me to play the clutch and get
traction, even when the 4WD automatics are sliding into ditches during some
snow.

I wish I could have gotten the 4Runner with a manual trans.

The granny is nice, better than 1,2,3,4 OD. But you alluded to the
weakness in the system with your reference to "slipping the clutch".
Most people will burn out a lot of clutches if they tow very often,
thereby
eliminating any savings in fuel economy or initial purchase price when
compared to the automatic.

While long haul tractors are manual transmissions and are designed
strictly for towing, it's a different scenario entirely. When I
learned to drive in the early 70's we had a Fuller Road Ranger
transmission with 15-gears (not 4-5) so the torque range for each gear
was pretty minimal. By carefully watching the tach we could time the
shifting so that we didn't even need to use the clutch except when
starting or stopping. If I remember correctly the shift points were at
1800 and 2200. To shift from 4th to 5th, for example, you would run
the RPM up to the 2200 level in 4th, pull the shifter into neutral,
back off the throttle to bring rpm down to 1800 and just as it got to
1800 shove the selector into 5th. Going down was the reverse, raise
the rpm to the upper end of the shifting range and then jam the next
lower gear into place. The transmissions didn't have "synchros" in the
typical sense, but the gears were sized so that
they would synchronize with the output shaft at the stated RPM. The
tricky bit with the 15-speed tranny was going between the lower and
upper halves of the shift pattern (Top gears were a repeat of the
lower gears, but with a hydraulic knob pulled).

With 12-18 gears to choose from, a manual is a pretty good choice for
towing. With only 4-5 gears between no-load and 80 MPH- I think the
progressive torque curve of an automatic is a better choice.

I've slipped the clutch only in snow, for traction. The granny gear doesn't
need any slipping. Some clutch slippage is always necessary unless a very
jerky engagement is desired. The first clutch was replaced after about
100,000 miles, so this one is a baby.

I ruined the first one trying to pull the boat out when the trailer wheels
had gove over the lip of the ramp. Now *that* was some slippage! It lasted
about another 20,000, with me babying it, but then got to where it wouldn't
pull the truck away from a stop sign.

On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 17:35:00 -0500, John H.
wrote:

http://tinyurl.com/29egny

Now don't everybody jump at once!

What size engine is in it?

Mark E. Williams

On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 19:10:46 -0500, Maynard G. Krebbs
wrote:

On Thu, 04 Oct 2007 17:35:00 -0500, John H.
wrote:

http://tinyurl.com/29egny

Now don't everybody jump at once!

What size engine is in it?

Mark E. Williams

Damn! Now I'll have to change the ad!

The 350 cu in, V8.