Here's a bit of Pacific NW boating. I forgot to include on every other
line of the text "it rained. several feet every day" (repeat
everytime the subject of the Pac NW comes up, thank)

A few representational images at:

http://www.pbase.com/gould/bowen_island


Howe Sound Series, Part I
Union Steamship Company Marina, Bowen Island

Howe Sound has been somewhat overlooked by a lot of boaters from the
United States. Only a few miles from Vancouver, the inland sea is an
extremely popular weekend and holiday destination for Canadians. In an
area of approximately 100 square miles, every type of boating
destination and activity is available to satisfy a wide variety of
cruising lifestyles. Looking for a first class marina with shoreside
restaurants and shopping close at hand? A waterfront village far from
the resort-oriented crowds? A private anchorage in a wilderness cove?
A Provincial Marine Park with floats or mooring buoys? Numerous
examples of each option can be found among the channels, fjords, and
islands of Howe Sound, surrounded by the same mountainous terrain that
has made Desolation Sound and Princess Louisa Inlet incredibly
desirable destinations for summer cruises.

Trawlers and sailboats with 7-10 day vacation plans can find it
difficult complete a round trip from central Puget Sound to some of
the most popular cruising destinations, but for slower boats Howe
Sound is at least a full day closer than Desolation Sound and lops two
days or more off the required roundtrip timetable. Although fuel
prices can fluctuate wildly during a typical year, few boaters are
entirely unmindful of fuel costs and the savings associated with a
closer destination can often be substantial.

We began making plans to visit Howe Sound in the spring of 2007. When
we would gather with our boating friends to discuss summer plans,
everyone would smile and nod as one couple after another named the San
Juans, the Gulf Islands, or Desolation Sound as their regional
itinerary. We got a few odd looks when we mentioned Howe Sound, and
several people responded with comments like, "Oh, yes! But, hmm, would
you remind me again just exactly where that is?" During our visit to
Howe Sound in mid-August, we were only semi- surprised to discover
that very few boats were flying the US ensign. The Canadians have been
keeping this spectacular area somewhat secret- cleverly hiding it in
plain sight.

En route to Bowen Island

There are no Canadian Customs docks in Howe Sound, so unless a boater
is cruising with an I-68 or similarly prearranged telephone clearance
it will be necessary to clear elsewhere. Boaters crossing the Strait
of Georgia from the Gulf Islands will have opportunities to clear at
Bedwell and other common locations. If northbound up Rosario Strait
and then coasting past Roberts and Sturgeon Banks near the mouths of
the Fraser River the options are White Rock (near Blaine), or
locations at False Creek and Coal Harbour in Vancouver. We preferred
to avoid dealing with the congestion at False Creek or Coal Harbour
and cleared at White Rock.

We had little difficulty running from White Rock to Howe Sound, but
needed to be reminded (twice) that it is important to stay well
offshore in deep water when onshore winds oppose the outflows from the
Fraser River. The river water spreads over the seawater in the Strait
of Georgia like a muddy tea puddle, and on the two occasions when we
began pitching and rolling more than we would have preferred we
noticed that we were surrounded with river water. Moving another ¼
mile or so offshore into the unsullied blue waters of the Strait of
Georgia apparently carried us beyond the influence of the river's
current- for while the wind remained at 10-15 knots the seas were far
more manageable. The shoals extend much farther from shore than some
people might be prepared to imagine, so referring to an appropriate
chart will be particularly important along the Fraser River delta.

Point Atkinson, at the extreme SE corner of Howe Sound, can be a
memorable landmark. Opposing winds and currents are known to create
challenging conditions in this vicinity.
By staying well off Roberts and Halibut Banks we were far enough west
that we didn't have any difficulty with Point Atkinson, but boaters
should be aware that the Point's reputation is well founded.

Bowen Island

Bowen is the most southern island in Howe Sound, separated from
Horseshoe Bay on the mainland by Queen Charlotte Channel on the
eastern side and from Keats Island byCollingswood Channel off its
western shore. Moorage is available in Snug Cove and Mannion Bay
(locally known as "Deep Bay") about midway up the eastern shore of the
island, and many of the island's commercial facilities and amenities
are located nearby.

Bowen Island has long been considered a weekend playground for
residents of Vancouver, BC. In 1900, a Captain John Cates purchased
the land surrounding Mannion Bay and Snug Cove. Captain Cates owned a
300 passenger steamship, ("Britannia"), and realized that he would
carry far more passengers if he had some interesting destination that
couldn't be easily reached by any other means. Cates erected the first
resort facilities on Bowen Island and offered regular steamship
service from Vancouver for about 20 years.

In 1920, the Union Steamship Company purchased the Cates properties
and eventually acquired a total of 1300 adjoining acres. Union
Steamship operated a hotel on the shores of Deep Bay, a dance hall,
and other facilities to attract weekenders and vacationers from
Vancouver. Then, as now, visitors would flock to Bowen Island for
fishing, hiking, sailing, horseback riding, and general relaxation.
Steamships would depart from Union Pier at the foot of Carrall Street
in Vancouver 2-3 times per day, and during the 1920's the round trip
fare was $1. The Union Steamship Company holdings were broken up in
1962 and the hotel at Deep Bay was demolished- but vestiges of the
steam ship resort remain throughout the Snug Cove/Mannion Bay area of
Bowen Island.

Union Steamship Marina

Boaters will find the entrance to Snug Cove somewhere near 49.22.85N
and 123.19.31W.
The site of the original steamship dock is now the BC ferry landing
for Bowen Island, with frequent service from Horseshoe Bay. Boaters
northbound in Queen Charlotte Channel won't have a view into Snug
Cove, and should be mindful that the ferries can appear very suddenly.
Union Steamship marina is immediately adjacent to the ferry dock, on
the south side.

We arrived on a minus tide, but by staying near the floats we found
depths that were adequately dredged to our assigned berth in the back
of the marina. When we arrived at our slip, we were greeted by a dock
attendant who had pedaled out to meet us on a single-speed bike. We
were additionally greeted by a black beaked swan, preening along a
nearby shoreline. We noticed several people lounging and playing a
variety of racquet games on a broad formal lawn fronting a picturesque
marina building- as though it were simultaneously 2007 and 1927 at the
Union Steamship Company Marina. We found the aging floats slightly
rocky underfoot, but the marina staff was extremely congenial. An
informal survey suggested that we were one of only about a half dozen
boats from the US spending the night at Union Steamship- and by far
the most common hailing port listed on transoms was Vancouver BC..

Once ashore we explored the areas near the marina. A commercial
district lines one side of the roadway up the hill from the ferry
landing, and most of the shops are the sorts of enterprises one would
expect to spring up and service tourists enjoying a weekend holiday.
Art galleries, coffee shops, jewelry stores, clothing boutiques and
other specialized shops feature a variety of goods that are more
whimsical than essential- entirely appropriate for a vacation shopping
spree.

The Bowen Island library, across the road from the marina office,
occupies a 1920's building that was originally the Union Steamship
Company Store. A nearby walkway retraces a vintage pathway across the
short distance between Snug Cove and Mannion Bay. The sandy beach
beyond the walkway was created by the Steamship Company- new
steamships ordered from Scotland were ballasted with sand prior to
their delivery voyages, and this Scottish sand established the beach
area in Mannion Bay.

We hiked from the marina up to a lookout on Dorman Point. The trail in
general could be considered a moderate climb, with portions that could
be justifiably rated difficult. A sign at the trail head read "No
Horses", and about halfway through one of the tougher sections I
remember thinking "no self respecting horse would ever venture up
here." The entire walk, including a 10-minute rest stop at a point
where the trail intersected a dead end road, took about an hour. The
vistas from Dorman Point are worth the climb, and the trail terminates
on some gargantuan granite knuckles where gravity-defying arbutus
trees lean out well beyond the edge yet somehow manage to avoid
sliding down a vertical cliff.

There are some excellent dining opportunities at Union Steamship
Company Marina. Blue-eyed Mary's Restaurant is reputed to offer some
of the finest fare in Howe Sound and is located at the Marina. We have
resolved to dine there during our next visit, but the restaurant was
closed on the night we stayed at Union Steamship in 2007. We ate
instead at Doc Morgan's Pub, also located at the marina, and enjoyed
very attentive service and well above-average fare. After splitting an
order of calamari, Jan ordered some skewered shrimp and I selected a
tasty salad featuring spinach, goat cheese, and sliced breast of duck.
If the food at Blue-eyed Mary's is better than that offered at the
pub, it must be very good indeed.

During the heyday of the Union Steamship Company, Bowen was typically
billed as "The Happy Island." We thoroughly enjoyed our stay at Union
Steamship Company Marina and can whole-heartedly recommend the
facility. It would seem that Bowen Island remains a happy place. Like
most boaters from Puget Sound, we will continue to venture farther
north on a regular basis- but we will also remember that high quality
cruising grounds can be found closer than many people assume.