"HK" wrote in message
. ..
wrote:
On Aug 17, 11:40 am, "rom" wrote:
"Low Transoms - The single most critical reason boats are flooded on
open
water has to do with transom
height. Most boats that are swamped are outboard powered, with engine
cut-outs that are often only
inches above the waves. Motor wells are supposed to be the second line
of
defense when a wave comes
over an outboard's transom but, in some cases, the well is too low, too
shallow, and/ or not sealed
adequately to the cockpit. Scuppers in the motor well and cockpit may
also
be slow to drain, especially if
they re clogged. And whenever water lingers in the well or cockpit, the
chances of another wave coming
aboard increases. So too is the risk of being swamped."

"A boat is often much "closer" to the water than its freeboard would
indicate. A cracked
thru-hull at the boot stripe or a cutout at the transom for an outboard
motor well that isn't
protected by a splash guard means that, as a practical matter, the boat
has
to sink only
an inch or two before it floods and heads to the bottom. Inspect
fittings
and hoses above
the waterline with the same critical eye that you used on fittings down
in
the bilge. Double-
clamp the thru-hulls and consider adding an anti-siphon loop or check
valve
to any that
are within 8" to 12" of the waterline"

http://www.boatus.org/onlinecourse/R...PDF_files/sect...

All right, already, we get it. If you don't know how to use a tool,
you probably should not buy it. You should always buy the right tool
for your needs and use in a manner consistant with it's design, and
within the limits of it's intended function. If you are skeeeeeret of
a low transom boat, don't go out in one! If you are in a low transom
boat, take proper precautions, if you are in a big unfloated boat,
take other precautions, if you are in a dinghy.... Don't go out in a
blow... Geeze guys, maybe it's time to revisit your roots, I doubt you
all started boating on 40 foot trawlers



I have a feeling if you were out in a boat with Reggie Retardo or his
clone ROM and you hit another boat's wake, they'd both pee and brownstripe
their shorts.

Got some preliminary performance figures on the new boat:

1000 RPM 4.3 mph .70 gph

4000 RPM 26.2 mph 6.9 gph

4500 RPM 30 mph 8.9 gph


Engine is too young for a sustained wide-open run, but I am guessing 5900
rpm, 40+ mph, and (gulp) 16+ gph.

This is with a 3000 pound boat, 475 pound engine, 50 gallons of fuel
(about 340 pounds), two guys aboard (425 pounds), about about 150 pounds
of assorted "gear." Turning a 15-1/4 x 15" Yamaha black stainless prop
with a 2:1 gear ratio in the engine lower unit. Temp in the 90s, eight
knot breeze, seas calm.


If 16.9 gph is realistic, I think that's quite economical for that setup.

What's the slip figure for that rig, if you know?

D.Duck wrote:
"HK" wrote in message
. ..
wrote:
On Aug 17, 11:40 am, "rom" wrote:
"Low Transoms - The single most critical reason boats are flooded on
open
water has to do with transom
height. Most boats that are swamped are outboard powered, with engine
cut-outs that are often only
inches above the waves. Motor wells are supposed to be the second line
of
defense when a wave comes
over an outboard's transom but, in some cases, the well is too low, too
shallow, and/ or not sealed
adequately to the cockpit. Scuppers in the motor well and cockpit may
also
be slow to drain, especially if
they re clogged. And whenever water lingers in the well or cockpit, the
chances of another wave coming
aboard increases. So too is the risk of being swamped."

"A boat is often much "closer" to the water than its freeboard would
indicate. A cracked
thru-hull at the boot stripe or a cutout at the transom for an outboard
motor well that isn't
protected by a splash guard means that, as a practical matter, the boat
has
to sink only
an inch or two before it floods and heads to the bottom. Inspect
fittings
and hoses above
the waterline with the same critical eye that you used on fittings down
in
the bilge. Double-
clamp the thru-hulls and consider adding an anti-siphon loop or check
valve
to any that
are within 8" to 12" of the waterline"

http://www.boatus.org/onlinecourse/R...PDF_files/sect...
All right, already, we get it. If you don't know how to use a tool,
you probably should not buy it. You should always buy the right tool
for your needs and use in a manner consistant with it's design, and
within the limits of it's intended function. If you are skeeeeeret of
a low transom boat, don't go out in one! If you are in a low transom
boat, take proper precautions, if you are in a big unfloated boat,
take other precautions, if you are in a dinghy.... Don't go out in a
blow... Geeze guys, maybe it's time to revisit your roots, I doubt you
all started boating on 40 foot trawlers


I have a feeling if you were out in a boat with Reggie Retardo or his
clone ROM and you hit another boat's wake, they'd both pee and brownstripe
their shorts.

Got some preliminary performance figures on the new boat:

1000 RPM 4.3 mph .70 gph

4000 RPM 26.2 mph 6.9 gph

4500 RPM 30 mph 8.9 gph


Engine is too young for a sustained wide-open run, but I am guessing 5900
rpm, 40+ mph, and (gulp) 16+ gph.

This is with a 3000 pound boat, 475 pound engine, 50 gallons of fuel
(about 340 pounds), two guys aboard (425 pounds), about about 150 pounds
of assorted "gear." Turning a 15-1/4 x 15" Yamaha black stainless prop
with a 2:1 gear ratio in the engine lower unit. Temp in the 90s, eight
knot breeze, seas calm.


If 16.9 gph is realistic, I think that's quite economical for that setup.

What's the slip figure for that rig, if you know?



I dunno. I do know the boat is a bit faster at WOT with a 17" pitch
prop, but the engine won't turn into the high end of the recommended
range.

On Aug 17, 12:55 pm, HK wrote:
D.Duck wrote:
"HK" wrote in message
...
wrote:
On Aug 17, 11:40 am, "rom" wrote:
"Low Transoms - The single most critical reason boats are flooded on
open
water has to do with transom
height. Most boats that are swamped are outboard powered, with engine
cut-outs that are often only
inches above the waves. Motor wells are supposed to be the second line
of
defense when a wave comes
over an outboard's transom but, in some cases, the well is too low, too
shallow, and/ or not sealed
adequately to the cockpit. Scuppers in the motor well and cockpit may
also
be slow to drain, especially if
they re clogged. And whenever water lingers in the well or cockpit, the
chances of another wave coming
aboard increases. So too is the risk of being swamped."

"A boat is often much "closer" to the water than its freeboard would
indicate. A cracked
thru-hull at the boot stripe or a cutout at the transom for an outboard
motor well that isn't
protected by a splash guard means that, as a practical matter, the boat
has
to sink only
an inch or two before it floods and heads to the bottom. Inspect
fittings
and hoses above
the waterline with the same critical eye that you used on fittings down
in
the bilge. Double-
clamp the thru-hulls and consider adding an anti-siphon loop or check
valve
to any that
are within 8" to 12" of the waterline"

http://www.boatus.org/onlinecourse/R...PDF_files/sect...
All right, already, we get it. If you don't know how to use a tool,
you probably should not buy it. You should always buy the right tool
for your needs and use in a manner consistant with it's design, and
within the limits of it's intended function. If you are skeeeeeret of
a low transom boat, don't go out in one! If you are in a low transom
boat, take proper precautions, if you are in a big unfloated boat,
take other precautions, if you are in a dinghy.... Don't go out in a
blow... Geeze guys, maybe it's time to revisit your roots, I doubt you
all started boating on 40 foot trawlers

I have a feeling if you were out in a boat with Reggie Retardo or his
clone ROM and you hit another boat's wake, they'd both pee and brownstripe
their shorts.

Got some preliminary performance figures on the new boat:

1000 RPM 4.3 mph .70 gph

4000 RPM 26.2 mph 6.9 gph

4500 RPM 30 mph 8.9 gph

Engine is too young for a sustained wide-open run, but I am guessing 5900
rpm, 40+ mph, and (gulp) 16+ gph.

This is with a 3000 pound boat, 475 pound engine, 50 gallons of fuel
(about 340 pounds), two guys aboard (425 pounds), about about 150 pounds
of assorted "gear." Turning a 15-1/4 x 15" Yamaha black stainless prop
with a 2:1 gear ratio in the engine lower unit. Temp in the 90s, eight
knot breeze, seas calm.

If 16.9 gph is realistic, I think that's quite economical for that setup.

What's the slip figure for that rig, if you know?

I dunno. I do know the boat is a bit faster at WOT with a 17" pitch
prop, but the engine won't turn into the high end of the recommended
range.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I just keep thinking of the irony of all of this. For the first time
in a whild, all or most of the conversation and even arguements are
about boats, design, safety, real boating stuff, finally.......and
Gould is missing the whole frekin' thing. Poor guy, I know he enjoys
boating posts, on this newsgroup

wrote:
On Aug 17, 12:55 pm, HK wrote:
D.Duck wrote:
"HK" wrote in message
. ..
wrote:
On Aug 17, 11:40 am, "rom" wrote:
"Low Transoms - The single most critical reason boats are flooded on
open
water has to do with transom
height. Most boats that are swamped are outboard powered, with engine
cut-outs that are often only
inches above the waves. Motor wells are supposed to be the second line
of
defense when a wave comes
over an outboard's transom but, in some cases, the well is too low, too
shallow, and/ or not sealed
adequately to the cockpit. Scuppers in the motor well and cockpit may
also
be slow to drain, especially if
they re clogged. And whenever water lingers in the well or cockpit, the
chances of another wave coming
aboard increases. So too is the risk of being swamped."
"A boat is often much "closer" to the water than its freeboard would
indicate. A cracked
thru-hull at the boot stripe or a cutout at the transom for an outboard
motor well that isn't
protected by a splash guard means that, as a practical matter, the boat
has
to sink only
an inch or two before it floods and heads to the bottom. Inspect
fittings
and hoses above
the waterline with the same critical eye that you used on fittings down
in
the bilge. Double-
clamp the thru-hulls and consider adding an anti-siphon loop or check
valve
to any that
are within 8" to 12" of the waterline"
http://www.boatus.org/onlinecourse/R...PDF_files/sect...
All right, already, we get it. If you don't know how to use a tool,
you probably should not buy it. You should always buy the right tool
for your needs and use in a manner consistant with it's design, and
within the limits of it's intended function. If you are skeeeeeret of
a low transom boat, don't go out in one! If you are in a low transom
boat, take proper precautions, if you are in a big unfloated boat,
take other precautions, if you are in a dinghy.... Don't go out in a
blow... Geeze guys, maybe it's time to revisit your roots, I doubt you
all started boating on 40 foot trawlers
I have a feeling if you were out in a boat with Reggie Retardo or his
clone ROM and you hit another boat's wake, they'd both pee and brownstripe
their shorts.
Got some preliminary performance figures on the new boat:
1000 RPM 4.3 mph .70 gph
4000 RPM 26.2 mph 6.9 gph
4500 RPM 30 mph 8.9 gph
Engine is too young for a sustained wide-open run, but I am guessing 5900
rpm, 40+ mph, and (gulp) 16+ gph.
This is with a 3000 pound boat, 475 pound engine, 50 gallons of fuel
(about 340 pounds), two guys aboard (425 pounds), about about 150 pounds
of assorted "gear." Turning a 15-1/4 x 15" Yamaha black stainless prop
with a 2:1 gear ratio in the engine lower unit. Temp in the 90s, eight
knot breeze, seas calm.
If 16.9 gph is realistic, I think that's quite economical for that setup.
What's the slip figure for that rig, if you know?
I dunno. I do know the boat is a bit faster at WOT with a 17" pitch
prop, but the engine won't turn into the high end of the recommended
range.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I just keep thinking of the irony of all of this. For the first time
in a whild, all or most of the conversation and even arguements are
about boats, design, safety, real boating stuff, finally.......and
Gould is missing the whole frekin' thing. Poor guy, I know he enjoys
boating posts, on this newsgroup


It might be interesting if we had a few more posters here who knew
anything about boats. There are a couple who do, but most of the action
is coming from turdblossoms like Reggie Retardo and his clones, whose
agenda is anything but boats, and whose goal is to shut this newsgroup
down cold.

Once again, I find it sad that usenet allows "anonymous" posters. Get
rid of that aspect and the quality of "conversation" would rise. Until
it does, you're plagued with turds that aren't easy to flush.

On Fri, 17 Aug 2007 14:57:54 -0400, HK wrote:

Once again, I find it sad that usenet allows "anonymous" posters.

A little strong for someone who edits out the HIN on their boat photos
don't you think?

Wayne.B wrote:
On Fri, 17 Aug 2007 14:57:54 -0400, HK wrote:

Once again, I find it sad that usenet allows "anonymous" posters.

A little strong for someone who edits out the HIN on their boat photos
don't you think?


I don't post here anonymously. My email is real, and so is my IP.
If I published a photo of my autos, I'd blank out the license plate.

BTW, I thought it funny that you actually believed all the rocks around
the Thimbles were marked on charts. They aren't. I would be delighted to
point you and your floating RV to several areas along the Connecticut
shoreline in the Sound where there are rocks not marked on the charts.
There are several, for example, right here in an area I know very, very
well:

http://tinyurl.com/2r4joa


A couple of the larger ones are marked. Several of the smaller ones that
are subrosa are not marked at all and in fact are not visible in this
aerial shot.

HK wrote:
Wayne.B wrote:
On Fri, 17 Aug 2007 14:57:54 -0400, HK wrote:

Once again, I find it sad that usenet allows "anonymous" posters.

A little strong for someone who edits out the HIN on their boat photos
don't you think?


I don't post here anonymously. My email is real, and so is my IP.
If I published a photo of my autos, I'd blank out the license plate.

BTW, I thought it funny that you actually believed all the rocks around
the Thimbles were marked on charts. They aren't. I would be delighted to
point you and your floating RV to several areas along the Connecticut
shoreline in the Sound where there are rocks not marked on the charts.
There are several, for example, right here in an area I know very, very
well:

http://tinyurl.com/2r4joa


A couple of the larger ones are marked. Several of the smaller ones that
are subrosa are not marked at all and in fact are not visible in this
aerial shot.


Harry Krause,
To forge an IP is against my ISP, and most ISP TOS. If you think anyone
has forged their ISP, you should report them and they will lose their
access to their internet. If you really want to get rid of me, and you
think I have ever forged my IP, send that post to .
They will cut my service off immediately.

If you remember, when you used a sock puppet to talk about your lobster
boat, that is the way someone realized it you were actually caring on an
NG conversation with yourself. You both had the exact same IP, the same
one you had had for years.

On Fri, 17 Aug 2007 18:32:04 -0400, HK wrote:

BTW, I thought it funny that you actually believed all the rocks around
the Thimbles were marked on charts.

So far we've had the good fortune not to hit any of them.

They aren't. I would be delighted to
point you and your floating RV to several areas along the Connecticut
shoreline in the Sound where there are rocks not marked on the charts.
There are several, for example, right here in an area I know very, very
well:

http://tinyurl.com/2r4joa


A couple of the larger ones are marked. Several of the smaller ones that
are subrosa are not marked at all and in fact are not visible in this
aerial shot.

What town?

We would not usually not push our luck that close to the Connecticut
shore except in a well marked channel. Prop repairs on a big boat get
to be fairly expensive and can take you out of service until you find
a diver with the right tools.

wrote in message
ups.com...
On Aug 17, 12:55 pm, HK wrote:
D.Duck wrote:
"HK" wrote in message
...
wrote:
On Aug 17, 11:40 am, "rom" wrote:
"Low Transoms - The single most critical reason boats are flooded on
open
water has to do with transom
height. Most boats that are swamped are outboard powered, with
engine
cut-outs that are often only
inches above the waves. Motor wells are supposed to be the second
line
of
defense when a wave comes
over an outboard's transom but, in some cases, the well is too low,
too
shallow, and/ or not sealed
adequately to the cockpit. Scuppers in the motor well and cockpit
may
also
be slow to drain, especially if
they re clogged. And whenever water lingers in the well or cockpit,
the
chances of another wave coming
aboard increases. So too is the risk of being swamped."

"A boat is often much "closer" to the water than its freeboard would
indicate. A cracked
thru-hull at the boot stripe or a cutout at the transom for an
outboard
motor well that isn't
protected by a splash guard means that, as a practical matter, the
boat
has
to sink only
an inch or two before it floods and heads to the bottom. Inspect
fittings
and hoses above
the waterline with the same critical eye that you used on fittings
down
in
the bilge. Double-
clamp the thru-hulls and consider adding an anti-siphon loop or
check
valve
to any that
are within 8" to 12" of the waterline"

http://www.boatus.org/onlinecourse/R...PDF_files/sect...
All right, already, we get it. If you don't know how to use a tool,
you probably should not buy it. You should always buy the right tool
for your needs and use in a manner consistant with it's design, and
within the limits of it's intended function. If you are skeeeeeret of
a low transom boat, don't go out in one! If you are in a low transom
boat, take proper precautions, if you are in a big unfloated boat,
take other precautions, if you are in a dinghy.... Don't go out in a
blow... Geeze guys, maybe it's time to revisit your roots, I doubt
you
all started boating on 40 foot trawlers

I have a feeling if you were out in a boat with Reggie Retardo or his
clone ROM and you hit another boat's wake, they'd both pee and
brownstripe
their shorts.

Got some preliminary performance figures on the new boat:

1000 RPM 4.3 mph .70 gph

4000 RPM 26.2 mph 6.9 gph

4500 RPM 30 mph 8.9 gph

Engine is too young for a sustained wide-open run, but I am guessing
5900
rpm, 40+ mph, and (gulp) 16+ gph.

This is with a 3000 pound boat, 475 pound engine, 50 gallons of fuel
(about 340 pounds), two guys aboard (425 pounds), about about 150
pounds
of assorted "gear." Turning a 15-1/4 x 15" Yamaha black stainless prop
with a 2:1 gear ratio in the engine lower unit. Temp in the 90s, eight
knot breeze, seas calm.

If 16.9 gph is realistic, I think that's quite economical for that
setup.

What's the slip figure for that rig, if you know?

I dunno. I do know the boat is a bit faster at WOT with a 17" pitch
prop, but the engine won't turn into the high end of the recommended
range.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I just keep thinking of the irony of all of this. For the first time
in a whild, all or most of the conversation and even arguements are
about boats, design, safety, real boating stuff, finally.......and
Gould is missing the whole frekin' thing. Poor guy, I know he enjoys
boating posts, on this newsgroup


Good observation! ;-)