"Low Transoms - The single most critical reason boats are flooded on open
water has to do with transom
height. Most boats that are swamped are outboard powered, with engine
cut-outs that are often only
inches above the waves. Motor wells are supposed to be the second line of
defense when a wave comes
over an outboard's transom but, in some cases, the well is too low, too
shallow, and/ or not sealed
adequately to the cockpit. Scuppers in the motor well and cockpit may also
be slow to drain, especially if
they re clogged. And whenever water lingers in the well or cockpit, the
chances of another wave coming
aboard increases. So too is the risk of being swamped."


"A boat is often much "closer" to the water than its freeboard would
indicate. A cracked
thru-hull at the boot stripe or a cutout at the transom for an outboard
motor well that isn't
protected by a splash guard means that, as a practical matter, the boat has
to sink only
an inch or two before it floods and heads to the bottom. Inspect fittings
and hoses above
the waterline with the same critical eye that you used on fittings down in
the bilge. Double-
clamp the thru-hulls and consider adding an anti-siphon loop or check valve
to any that
are within 8" to 12" of the waterline"


http://www.boatus.org/onlinecourse/R...s/section3.pdf

On Aug 17, 11:40 am, "rom" wrote:
"Low Transoms - The single most critical reason boats are flooded on open
water has to do with transom
height. Most boats that are swamped are outboard powered, with engine
cut-outs that are often only
inches above the waves. Motor wells are supposed to be the second line of
defense when a wave comes
over an outboard's transom but, in some cases, the well is too low, too
shallow, and/ or not sealed
adequately to the cockpit. Scuppers in the motor well and cockpit may also
be slow to drain, especially if
they re clogged. And whenever water lingers in the well or cockpit, the
chances of another wave coming
aboard increases. So too is the risk of being swamped."

"A boat is often much "closer" to the water than its freeboard would
indicate. A cracked
thru-hull at the boot stripe or a cutout at the transom for an outboard
motor well that isn't
protected by a splash guard means that, as a practical matter, the boat has
to sink only
an inch or two before it floods and heads to the bottom. Inspect fittings
and hoses above
the waterline with the same critical eye that you used on fittings down in
the bilge. Double-
clamp the thru-hulls and consider adding an anti-siphon loop or check valve
to any that
are within 8" to 12" of the waterline"

http://www.boatus.org/onlinecourse/R...PDF_files/sect...

All right, already, we get it. If you don't know how to use a tool,
you probably should not buy it. You should always buy the right tool
for your needs and use in a manner consistant with it's design, and
within the limits of it's intended function. If you are skeeeeeret of
a low transom boat, don't go out in one! If you are in a low transom
boat, take proper precautions, if you are in a big unfloated boat,
take other precautions, if you are in a dinghy.... Don't go out in a
blow... Geeze guys, maybe it's time to revisit your roots, I doubt you
all started boating on 40 foot trawlers

On Fri, 17 Aug 2007 15:55:23 -0000,
wrote:

Geeze guys, maybe it's time to revisit your roots, I doubt you
all started boating on 40 foot trawlers

Does a 45 foot Bertie Sportfisherman count? :)

You've been onboard my Ranger in a heavy stern rip - remember that
"ride" we took in Narragansett Bay? We didn't get wet, but if you
remember, I wasn't taking the rips between Warwick Neck and Patience
Island for anything - I know the boat's limits.

And I think Harry is right in one respect - knowing when to and when
not to get into trouble is very important with this type of design.

wrote:
On Aug 17, 11:40 am, "rom" wrote:
"Low Transoms - The single most critical reason boats are flooded on open
water has to do with transom
height. Most boats that are swamped are outboard powered, with engine
cut-outs that are often only
inches above the waves. Motor wells are supposed to be the second line of
defense when a wave comes
over an outboard's transom but, in some cases, the well is too low, too
shallow, and/ or not sealed
adequately to the cockpit. Scuppers in the motor well and cockpit may also
be slow to drain, especially if
they re clogged. And whenever water lingers in the well or cockpit, the
chances of another wave coming
aboard increases. So too is the risk of being swamped."

"A boat is often much "closer" to the water than its freeboard would
indicate. A cracked
thru-hull at the boot stripe or a cutout at the transom for an outboard
motor well that isn't
protected by a splash guard means that, as a practical matter, the boat has
to sink only
an inch or two before it floods and heads to the bottom. Inspect fittings
and hoses above
the waterline with the same critical eye that you used on fittings down in
the bilge. Double-
clamp the thru-hulls and consider adding an anti-siphon loop or check valve
to any that
are within 8" to 12" of the waterline"

http://www.boatus.org/onlinecourse/R...PDF_files/sect...

All right, already, we get it. If you don't know how to use a tool,
you probably should not buy it. You should always buy the right tool
for your needs and use in a manner consistant with it's design, and
within the limits of it's intended function. If you are skeeeeeret of
a low transom boat, don't go out in one! If you are in a low transom
boat, take proper precautions, if you are in a big unfloated boat,
take other precautions, if you are in a dinghy.... Don't go out in a
blow... Geeze guys, maybe it's time to revisit your roots, I doubt you
all started boating on 40 foot trawlers



I have a feeling if you were out in a boat with Reggie Retardo or his
clone ROM and you hit another boat's wake, they'd both pee and
brownstripe their shorts.

Got some preliminary performance figures on the new boat:

1000 RPM 4.3 mph .70 gph

4000 RPM 26.2 mph 6.9 gph

4500 RPM 30 mph 8.9 gph


Engine is too young for a sustained wide-open run, but I am guessing
5900 rpm, 40+ mph, and (gulp) 16+ gph.

This is with a 3000 pound boat, 475 pound engine, 50 gallons of fuel
(about 340 pounds), two guys aboard (425 pounds), about about 150 pounds
of assorted "gear." Turning a 15-1/4 x 15" Yamaha black stainless prop
with a 2:1 gear ratio in the engine lower unit. Temp in the 90s, eight
knot breeze, seas calm.

"HK" wrote in message
. ..
wrote:
On Aug 17, 11:40 am, "rom" wrote:
"Low Transoms - The single most critical reason boats are flooded on
open
water has to do with transom
height. Most boats that are swamped are outboard powered, with engine
cut-outs that are often only
inches above the waves. Motor wells are supposed to be the second line
of
defense when a wave comes
over an outboard's transom but, in some cases, the well is too low, too
shallow, and/ or not sealed
adequately to the cockpit. Scuppers in the motor well and cockpit may
also
be slow to drain, especially if
they re clogged. And whenever water lingers in the well or cockpit, the
chances of another wave coming
aboard increases. So too is the risk of being swamped."

"A boat is often much "closer" to the water than its freeboard would
indicate. A cracked
thru-hull at the boot stripe or a cutout at the transom for an outboard
motor well that isn't
protected by a splash guard means that, as a practical matter, the boat
has
to sink only
an inch or two before it floods and heads to the bottom. Inspect
fittings
and hoses above
the waterline with the same critical eye that you used on fittings down
in
the bilge. Double-
clamp the thru-hulls and consider adding an anti-siphon loop or check
valve
to any that
are within 8" to 12" of the waterline"

http://www.boatus.org/onlinecourse/R...PDF_files/sect...

All right, already, we get it. If you don't know how to use a tool,
you probably should not buy it. You should always buy the right tool
for your needs and use in a manner consistant with it's design, and
within the limits of it's intended function. If you are skeeeeeret of
a low transom boat, don't go out in one! If you are in a low transom
boat, take proper precautions, if you are in a big unfloated boat,
take other precautions, if you are in a dinghy.... Don't go out in a
blow... Geeze guys, maybe it's time to revisit your roots, I doubt you
all started boating on 40 foot trawlers



I have a feeling if you were out in a boat with Reggie Retardo or his
clone ROM and you hit another boat's wake, they'd both pee and brownstripe
their shorts.

Got some preliminary performance figures on the new boat:

1000 RPM 4.3 mph .70 gph

4000 RPM 26.2 mph 6.9 gph

4500 RPM 30 mph 8.9 gph


Engine is too young for a sustained wide-open run, but I am guessing 5900
rpm, 40+ mph, and (gulp) 16+ gph.

This is with a 3000 pound boat, 475 pound engine, 50 gallons of fuel
(about 340 pounds), two guys aboard (425 pounds), about about 150 pounds
of assorted "gear." Turning a 15-1/4 x 15" Yamaha black stainless prop
with a 2:1 gear ratio in the engine lower unit. Temp in the 90s, eight
knot breeze, seas calm.


If 16.9 gph is realistic, I think that's quite economical for that setup.

What's the slip figure for that rig, if you know?

On Aug 17, 12:07 pm, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote:
On Fri, 17 Aug 2007 15:55:23 -0000,
wrote:

Geeze guys, maybe it's time to revisit your roots, I doubt you
all started boating on 40 foot trawlers

Does a 45 foot Bertie Sportfisherman count? :)

You've been onboard my Ranger in a heavy stern rip - remember that
"ride" we took in Narragansett Bay? We didn't get wet, but if you
remember, I wasn't taking the rips between Warwick Neck and Patience
Island for anything - I know the boat's limits.

And I think Harry is right in one respect - knowing when to and when
not to get into trouble is very important with this type of design.

Well, that is what I am saying. First off, I am comfortable in small
boats anyway, maybe too comfortable (remember the lake, the temptation
to pull the tiller and send me swimming My first boat was a seveylor
soft bottom raft, second a sears jon boat, both saw time on Long
Island Sound. Anyway, I was a bit surprised the first time I saw the
Ranger up close, it has less freeboard than my skiff. But once on the
water, and of course trusting the Captain knows the limitations, I was
not at all uncomfortable. I don't know how rough water I would be
comfortable in, in your boat, but the way it handled and your ability
to keep it going where you wanted it to go would probably keep me in a
comfort zone. Like I said, every boat is a tool, I have 11 hammers,
some folks have several boats all suited for a specific type of work/
play. It still sounds to me like Harry picked his boat cause it will
do what he needs it to do...

D.Duck wrote:
"HK" wrote in message
. ..
wrote:
On Aug 17, 11:40 am, "rom" wrote:
"Low Transoms - The single most critical reason boats are flooded on
open
water has to do with transom
height. Most boats that are swamped are outboard powered, with engine
cut-outs that are often only
inches above the waves. Motor wells are supposed to be the second line
of
defense when a wave comes
over an outboard's transom but, in some cases, the well is too low, too
shallow, and/ or not sealed
adequately to the cockpit. Scuppers in the motor well and cockpit may
also
be slow to drain, especially if
they re clogged. And whenever water lingers in the well or cockpit, the
chances of another wave coming
aboard increases. So too is the risk of being swamped."

"A boat is often much "closer" to the water than its freeboard would
indicate. A cracked
thru-hull at the boot stripe or a cutout at the transom for an outboard
motor well that isn't
protected by a splash guard means that, as a practical matter, the boat
has
to sink only
an inch or two before it floods and heads to the bottom. Inspect
fittings
and hoses above
the waterline with the same critical eye that you used on fittings down
in
the bilge. Double-
clamp the thru-hulls and consider adding an anti-siphon loop or check
valve
to any that
are within 8" to 12" of the waterline"

http://www.boatus.org/onlinecourse/R...PDF_files/sect...
All right, already, we get it. If you don't know how to use a tool,
you probably should not buy it. You should always buy the right tool
for your needs and use in a manner consistant with it's design, and
within the limits of it's intended function. If you are skeeeeeret of
a low transom boat, don't go out in one! If you are in a low transom
boat, take proper precautions, if you are in a big unfloated boat,
take other precautions, if you are in a dinghy.... Don't go out in a
blow... Geeze guys, maybe it's time to revisit your roots, I doubt you
all started boating on 40 foot trawlers


I have a feeling if you were out in a boat with Reggie Retardo or his
clone ROM and you hit another boat's wake, they'd both pee and brownstripe
their shorts.

Got some preliminary performance figures on the new boat:

1000 RPM 4.3 mph .70 gph

4000 RPM 26.2 mph 6.9 gph

4500 RPM 30 mph 8.9 gph


Engine is too young for a sustained wide-open run, but I am guessing 5900
rpm, 40+ mph, and (gulp) 16+ gph.

This is with a 3000 pound boat, 475 pound engine, 50 gallons of fuel
(about 340 pounds), two guys aboard (425 pounds), about about 150 pounds
of assorted "gear." Turning a 15-1/4 x 15" Yamaha black stainless prop
with a 2:1 gear ratio in the engine lower unit. Temp in the 90s, eight
knot breeze, seas calm.


If 16.9 gph is realistic, I think that's quite economical for that setup.

What's the slip figure for that rig, if you know?



I dunno. I do know the boat is a bit faster at WOT with a 17" pitch
prop, but the engine won't turn into the high end of the recommended
range.

On Aug 17, 12:55 pm, HK wrote:
D.Duck wrote:
"HK" wrote in message
...
wrote:
On Aug 17, 11:40 am, "rom" wrote:
"Low Transoms - The single most critical reason boats are flooded on
open
water has to do with transom
height. Most boats that are swamped are outboard powered, with engine
cut-outs that are often only
inches above the waves. Motor wells are supposed to be the second line
of
defense when a wave comes
over an outboard's transom but, in some cases, the well is too low, too
shallow, and/ or not sealed
adequately to the cockpit. Scuppers in the motor well and cockpit may
also
be slow to drain, especially if
they re clogged. And whenever water lingers in the well or cockpit, the
chances of another wave coming
aboard increases. So too is the risk of being swamped."

"A boat is often much "closer" to the water than its freeboard would
indicate. A cracked
thru-hull at the boot stripe or a cutout at the transom for an outboard
motor well that isn't
protected by a splash guard means that, as a practical matter, the boat
has
to sink only
an inch or two before it floods and heads to the bottom. Inspect
fittings
and hoses above
the waterline with the same critical eye that you used on fittings down
in
the bilge. Double-
clamp the thru-hulls and consider adding an anti-siphon loop or check
valve
to any that
are within 8" to 12" of the waterline"

http://www.boatus.org/onlinecourse/R...PDF_files/sect...
All right, already, we get it. If you don't know how to use a tool,
you probably should not buy it. You should always buy the right tool
for your needs and use in a manner consistant with it's design, and
within the limits of it's intended function. If you are skeeeeeret of
a low transom boat, don't go out in one! If you are in a low transom
boat, take proper precautions, if you are in a big unfloated boat,
take other precautions, if you are in a dinghy.... Don't go out in a
blow... Geeze guys, maybe it's time to revisit your roots, I doubt you
all started boating on 40 foot trawlers

I have a feeling if you were out in a boat with Reggie Retardo or his
clone ROM and you hit another boat's wake, they'd both pee and brownstripe
their shorts.

Got some preliminary performance figures on the new boat:

1000 RPM 4.3 mph .70 gph

4000 RPM 26.2 mph 6.9 gph

4500 RPM 30 mph 8.9 gph

Engine is too young for a sustained wide-open run, but I am guessing 5900
rpm, 40+ mph, and (gulp) 16+ gph.

This is with a 3000 pound boat, 475 pound engine, 50 gallons of fuel
(about 340 pounds), two guys aboard (425 pounds), about about 150 pounds
of assorted "gear." Turning a 15-1/4 x 15" Yamaha black stainless prop
with a 2:1 gear ratio in the engine lower unit. Temp in the 90s, eight
knot breeze, seas calm.

If 16.9 gph is realistic, I think that's quite economical for that setup.

What's the slip figure for that rig, if you know?

I dunno. I do know the boat is a bit faster at WOT with a 17" pitch
prop, but the engine won't turn into the high end of the recommended
range.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I just keep thinking of the irony of all of this. For the first time
in a whild, all or most of the conversation and even arguements are
about boats, design, safety, real boating stuff, finally.......and
Gould is missing the whole frekin' thing. Poor guy, I know he enjoys
boating posts, on this newsgroup

wrote:
On Aug 17, 12:55 pm, HK wrote:
D.Duck wrote:
"HK" wrote in message
. ..
wrote:
On Aug 17, 11:40 am, "rom" wrote:
"Low Transoms - The single most critical reason boats are flooded on
open
water has to do with transom
height. Most boats that are swamped are outboard powered, with engine
cut-outs that are often only
inches above the waves. Motor wells are supposed to be the second line
of
defense when a wave comes
over an outboard's transom but, in some cases, the well is too low, too
shallow, and/ or not sealed
adequately to the cockpit. Scuppers in the motor well and cockpit may
also
be slow to drain, especially if
they re clogged. And whenever water lingers in the well or cockpit, the
chances of another wave coming
aboard increases. So too is the risk of being swamped."
"A boat is often much "closer" to the water than its freeboard would
indicate. A cracked
thru-hull at the boot stripe or a cutout at the transom for an outboard
motor well that isn't
protected by a splash guard means that, as a practical matter, the boat
has
to sink only
an inch or two before it floods and heads to the bottom. Inspect
fittings
and hoses above
the waterline with the same critical eye that you used on fittings down
in
the bilge. Double-
clamp the thru-hulls and consider adding an anti-siphon loop or check
valve
to any that
are within 8" to 12" of the waterline"
http://www.boatus.org/onlinecourse/R...PDF_files/sect...
All right, already, we get it. If you don't know how to use a tool,
you probably should not buy it. You should always buy the right tool
for your needs and use in a manner consistant with it's design, and
within the limits of it's intended function. If you are skeeeeeret of
a low transom boat, don't go out in one! If you are in a low transom
boat, take proper precautions, if you are in a big unfloated boat,
take other precautions, if you are in a dinghy.... Don't go out in a
blow... Geeze guys, maybe it's time to revisit your roots, I doubt you
all started boating on 40 foot trawlers
I have a feeling if you were out in a boat with Reggie Retardo or his
clone ROM and you hit another boat's wake, they'd both pee and brownstripe
their shorts.
Got some preliminary performance figures on the new boat:
1000 RPM 4.3 mph .70 gph
4000 RPM 26.2 mph 6.9 gph
4500 RPM 30 mph 8.9 gph
Engine is too young for a sustained wide-open run, but I am guessing 5900
rpm, 40+ mph, and (gulp) 16+ gph.
This is with a 3000 pound boat, 475 pound engine, 50 gallons of fuel
(about 340 pounds), two guys aboard (425 pounds), about about 150 pounds
of assorted "gear." Turning a 15-1/4 x 15" Yamaha black stainless prop
with a 2:1 gear ratio in the engine lower unit. Temp in the 90s, eight
knot breeze, seas calm.
If 16.9 gph is realistic, I think that's quite economical for that setup.
What's the slip figure for that rig, if you know?
I dunno. I do know the boat is a bit faster at WOT with a 17" pitch
prop, but the engine won't turn into the high end of the recommended
range.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I just keep thinking of the irony of all of this. For the first time
in a whild, all or most of the conversation and even arguements are
about boats, design, safety, real boating stuff, finally.......and
Gould is missing the whole frekin' thing. Poor guy, I know he enjoys
boating posts, on this newsgroup


It might be interesting if we had a few more posters here who knew
anything about boats. There are a couple who do, but most of the action
is coming from turdblossoms like Reggie Retardo and his clones, whose
agenda is anything but boats, and whose goal is to shut this newsgroup
down cold.

Once again, I find it sad that usenet allows "anonymous" posters. Get
rid of that aspect and the quality of "conversation" would rise. Until
it does, you're plagued with turds that aren't easy to flush.

Well... you wouldnt want to read what the retards up in Detroit at the
Smallmouth Derby did last week on Lake Erie. 3 boats sunk (towed in by
OUR Coast Guard for free ...yet they charge us.) 1 guy lost the 240
Verado engine right off the back of his boat.
These were dummies that took BASS BOATS out in 3.5 to 5 foot chop.
You just DONT DO THAT on Erie.

S.