On Aug 17, 11:09 am, HK wrote:
wrote:
On Aug 17, 11:40 am, "rom" wrote:
"Low Transoms - The single most critical reason boats are flooded on open
water has to do with transom
height. Most boats that are swamped are outboard powered, with engine
cut-outs that are often only
inches above the waves. Motor wells are supposed to be the second line of
defense when a wave comes
over an outboard's transom but, in some cases, the well is too low, too
shallow, and/ or not sealed
adequately to the cockpit. Scuppers in the motor well and cockpit may also
be slow to drain, especially if
they re clogged. And whenever water lingers in the well or cockpit, the
chances of another wave coming
aboard increases. So too is the risk of being swamped."

"A boat is often much "closer" to the water than its freeboard would
indicate. A cracked
thru-hull at the boot stripe or a cutout at the transom for an outboard
motor well that isn't
protected by a splash guard means that, as a practical matter, the boat has
to sink only
an inch or two before it floods and heads to the bottom. Inspect fittings
and hoses above
the waterline with the same critical eye that you used on fittings down in
the bilge. Double-
clamp the thru-hulls and consider adding an anti-siphon loop or check valve
to any that
are within 8" to 12" of the waterline"

http://www.boatus.org/onlinecourse/R...PDF_files/sect...

All right, already, we get it. If you don't know how to use a tool,
you probably should not buy it. You should always buy the right tool
for your needs and use in a manner consistant with it's design, and
within the limits of it's intended function. If you are skeeeeeret of
a low transom boat, don't go out in one! If you are in a low transom
boat, take proper precautions, if you are in a big unfloated boat,
take other precautions, if you are in a dinghy.... Don't go out in a
blow... Geeze guys, maybe it's time to revisit your roots, I doubt you
all started boating on 40 foot trawlers

I have a feeling if you were out in a boat with Reggie Retardo or his
clone ROM and you hit another boat's wake, they'd both pee and
brownstripe their shorts.

Got some preliminary performance figures on the new boat:

1000 RPM 4.3 mph .70 gph

4000 RPM 26.2 mph 6.9 gph

4500 RPM 30 mph 8.9 gph

Engine is too young for a sustained wide-open run, but I am guessing
5900 rpm, 40+ mph, and (gulp) 16+ gph.

This is with a 3000 pound boat, 475 pound engine, 50 gallons of fuel
(about 340 pounds), two guys aboard (425 pounds), about about 150 pounds
of assorted "gear." Turning a 15-1/4 x 15" Yamaha black stainless prop
with a 2:1 gear ratio in the engine lower unit. Temp in the 90s, eight
knot breeze, seas calm.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Actually, Harry, the 5900 rpm/ 16 gpm really doesn't sound that bad.
especially for what you're getting... an hr. can be a long time.

Tim wrote:
On Aug 17, 11:09 am, HK wrote:
wrote:
On Aug 17, 11:40 am, "rom" wrote:
"Low Transoms - The single most critical reason boats are flooded on open
water has to do with transom
height. Most boats that are swamped are outboard powered, with engine
cut-outs that are often only
inches above the waves. Motor wells are supposed to be the second line of
defense when a wave comes
over an outboard's transom but, in some cases, the well is too low, too
shallow, and/ or not sealed
adequately to the cockpit. Scuppers in the motor well and cockpit may also
be slow to drain, especially if
they re clogged. And whenever water lingers in the well or cockpit, the
chances of another wave coming
aboard increases. So too is the risk of being swamped."
"A boat is often much "closer" to the water than its freeboard would
indicate. A cracked
thru-hull at the boot stripe or a cutout at the transom for an outboard
motor well that isn't
protected by a splash guard means that, as a practical matter, the boat has
to sink only
an inch or two before it floods and heads to the bottom. Inspect fittings
and hoses above
the waterline with the same critical eye that you used on fittings down in
the bilge. Double-
clamp the thru-hulls and consider adding an anti-siphon loop or check valve
to any that
are within 8" to 12" of the waterline"
http://www.boatus.org/onlinecourse/R...PDF_files/sect...
All right, already, we get it. If you don't know how to use a tool,
you probably should not buy it. You should always buy the right tool
for your needs and use in a manner consistant with it's design, and
within the limits of it's intended function. If you are skeeeeeret of
a low transom boat, don't go out in one! If you are in a low transom
boat, take proper precautions, if you are in a big unfloated boat,
take other precautions, if you are in a dinghy.... Don't go out in a
blow... Geeze guys, maybe it's time to revisit your roots, I doubt you
all started boating on 40 foot trawlers
I have a feeling if you were out in a boat with Reggie Retardo or his
clone ROM and you hit another boat's wake, they'd both pee and
brownstripe their shorts.

Got some preliminary performance figures on the new boat:

1000 RPM 4.3 mph .70 gph

4000 RPM 26.2 mph 6.9 gph

4500 RPM 30 mph 8.9 gph

Engine is too young for a sustained wide-open run, but I am guessing
5900 rpm, 40+ mph, and (gulp) 16+ gph.

This is with a 3000 pound boat, 475 pound engine, 50 gallons of fuel
(about 340 pounds), two guys aboard (425 pounds), about about 150 pounds
of assorted "gear." Turning a 15-1/4 x 15" Yamaha black stainless prop
with a 2:1 gear ratio in the engine lower unit. Temp in the 90s, eight
knot breeze, seas calm.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Actually, Harry, the 5900 rpm/ 16 gpm really doesn't sound that bad.
especially for what you're getting... an hr. can be a long time.



Oh, it's not "too" bad, it's just more per hour than I like to burn.
I'll be working to find that sweet spot of around 25 mph and just under
6gph, if it is findable.

On Sun, 19 Aug 2007 17:10:05 -0400, HK wrote:

Oh, it's not "too" bad, it's just more per hour than I like to burn.
I'll be working to find that sweet spot of around 25 mph and just under
6gph, if it is findable.

25 mph with only 60 hp?

I don't think so.

HK wrote:
Tim wrote:
On Aug 17, 11:09 am, HK wrote:
wrote:
On Aug 17, 11:40 am, "rom" wrote:
"Low Transoms - The single most critical reason boats are flooded
on open
water has to do with transom
height. Most boats that are swamped are outboard powered, with engine
cut-outs that are often only
inches above the waves. Motor wells are supposed to be the second
line of
defense when a wave comes
over an outboard's transom but, in some cases, the well is too low,
too
shallow, and/ or not sealed
adequately to the cockpit. Scuppers in the motor well and cockpit
may also
be slow to drain, especially if
they re clogged. And whenever water lingers in the well or cockpit,
the
chances of another wave coming
aboard increases. So too is the risk of being swamped."
"A boat is often much "closer" to the water than its freeboard would
indicate. A cracked
thru-hull at the boot stripe or a cutout at the transom for an
outboard
motor well that isn't
protected by a splash guard means that, as a practical matter, the
boat has
to sink only
an inch or two before it floods and heads to the bottom. Inspect
fittings
and hoses above
the waterline with the same critical eye that you used on fittings
down in
the bilge. Double-
clamp the thru-hulls and consider adding an anti-siphon loop or
check valve
to any that
are within 8" to 12" of the waterline"
http://www.boatus.org/onlinecourse/R...PDF_files/sect...

All right, already, we get it. If you don't know how to use a tool,
you probably should not buy it. You should always buy the right tool
for your needs and use in a manner consistant with it's design, and
within the limits of it's intended function. If you are skeeeeeret of
a low transom boat, don't go out in one! If you are in a low transom
boat, take proper precautions, if you are in a big unfloated boat,
take other precautions, if you are in a dinghy.... Don't go out in a
blow... Geeze guys, maybe it's time to revisit your roots, I doubt you
all started boating on 40 foot trawlers
I have a feeling if you were out in a boat with Reggie Retardo or his
clone ROM and you hit another boat's wake, they'd both pee and
brownstripe their shorts.

Got some preliminary performance figures on the new boat:

1000 RPM 4.3 mph .70 gph

4000 RPM 26.2 mph 6.9 gph

4500 RPM 30 mph 8.9 gph

Engine is too young for a sustained wide-open run, but I am guessing
5900 rpm, 40+ mph, and (gulp) 16+ gph.

This is with a 3000 pound boat, 475 pound engine, 50 gallons of fuel
(about 340 pounds), two guys aboard (425 pounds), about about 150 pounds
of assorted "gear." Turning a 15-1/4 x 15" Yamaha black stainless prop
with a 2:1 gear ratio in the engine lower unit. Temp in the 90s, eight
knot breeze, seas calm.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Actually, Harry, the 5900 rpm/ 16 gpm really doesn't sound that bad.
especially for what you're getting... an hr. can be a long time.



Oh, it's not "too" bad, it's just more per hour than I like to burn.
I'll be working to find that sweet spot of around 25 mph and just under
6gph, if it is findable.

Harry,
I thought you did all of your fishing 15 minutes from your boat ramp,
and then drift fished for the rest of the day. Why spend all that time
looking for the sweet spot for 25 hrs a year?

On Fri, 17 Aug 2007 12:09:22 -0400, HK wrote:

Got some preliminary performance figures on the new boat:

1000 RPM 4.3 mph .70 gph

4000 RPM 26.2 mph 6.9 gph

4500 RPM 30 mph 8.9 gph


Engine is too young for a sustained wide-open run, but I am guessing
5900 rpm, 40+ mph, and (gulp) 16+ gph.

It's not that I don't believe you - really. Those figures seem a
little suspect.

How much horsepower?

Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
On Fri, 17 Aug 2007 12:09:22 -0400, HK wrote:

Got some preliminary performance figures on the new boat:

1000 RPM 4.3 mph .70 gph

4000 RPM 26.2 mph 6.9 gph

4500 RPM 30 mph 8.9 gph


Engine is too young for a sustained wide-open run, but I am guessing
5900 rpm, 40+ mph, and (gulp) 16+ gph.

It's not that I don't believe you - really. Those figures seem a
little suspect.

How much horsepower?

150. Got these and two separate performance reports from Parker that
provide almost identical results. Theirs are a hair, just a hair, less,
because of the way they load their boats for testing, with a full load
of fuel, a full livewell, "gear," and two galoots. Two reports from
Parker because they tried two different props.

If you check the Yamaha performance bulletins, you'll find a 2120SC, a
boat with the came hull as mine, but with a cabin and heavier. It
performs just a bit worse than mine.

I suppose we could have gone with an etec and gotten more noise, more
vibration, more pollution, and less performance. :}

HK wrote:
Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
On Fri, 17 Aug 2007 12:09:22 -0400, HK wrote:

Got some preliminary performance figures on the new boat:

1000 RPM 4.3 mph .70 gph

4000 RPM 26.2 mph 6.9 gph

4500 RPM 30 mph 8.9 gph


Engine is too young for a sustained wide-open run, but I am guessing
5900 rpm, 40+ mph, and (gulp) 16+ gph.

It's not that I don't believe you - really. Those figures seem a
little suspect.

How much horsepower?

150. Got these and two separate performance reports from Parker that
provide almost identical results. Theirs are a hair, just a hair, less,
because of the way they load their boats for testing, with a full load
of fuel, a full livewell, "gear," and two galoots. Two reports from
Parker because they tried two different props.

If you check the Yamaha performance bulletins, you'll find a 2120SC, a
boat with the came hull as mine, but with a cabin and heavier. It
performs just a bit worse than mine.

I suppose we could have gone with an etec and gotten more noise, more
vibration, more pollution, and less performance. :}



Oh. Forgot. When I bought my 2520XL Parker, they sent me a performance
sheet and when I actually took delivery of the boat, I found that their
numbers were precisely on the money. In fact, they indicated that boat
would just kiss 40 mph at WOT with a 225 and it did.

On Mon, 20 Aug 2007 07:48:46 -0400, HK wrote:

I suppose we could have gone with an etec and gotten more noise,

Never in a hundred years.

more vibration,

HAH!!

more pollution,

Wanna bet?

and less performance. :}

You wish. :)

With a 150, that makes sense now - I thought you had a 225 again.

That's not bad at all. As you know, I have the 200 HO 90 degree block
and those figures come pretty close to mine - with the additional 50
horse power and different block.

Still, pretty good for ancient technology.l

Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
On Fri, 17 Aug 2007 12:09:22 -0400, HK wrote:

Got some preliminary performance figures on the new boat:

1000 RPM 4.3 mph .70 gph

4000 RPM 26.2 mph 6.9 gph

4500 RPM 30 mph 8.9 gph


Engine is too young for a sustained wide-open run, but I am guessing
5900 rpm, 40+ mph, and (gulp) 16+ gph.

It's not that I don't believe you - really. Those figures seem a
little suspect.

How much horsepower?

It looks like they match the specs listed on Yamaha's web site for a
Yamaha F150TXR matched to a Parker 2100SE. As to be expected the sweet
spot with the best fuel consumption is at 3500 rpm.

Performance Data
RPM MPH GPH MPG
1000 4.3 0.7 6.14
1500 5.8 1.1 5.27
2000 7.1 1.9 3.74
2500 8.4 3.0 2.80
3000 13.6 4.2 3.24
3500 20.9 5.1 4.10
4000 26.4 6.6 4.00
4500 30.3 8.8 3.44
5000 34.5 10.9 3.17
5500 38.4 14.4 2.67
6000 43.0 16.4 2.62
Seconds to Plane 3.44

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/assets/p...se-f150txr.pdf

Well... you wouldnt want to read what the retards up in Detroit at the
Smallmouth Derby did last week on Lake Erie. 3 boats sunk (towed in by
OUR Coast Guard for free ...yet they charge us.) 1 guy lost the 240
Verado engine right off the back of his boat.
These were dummies that took BASS BOATS out in 3.5 to 5 foot chop.
You just DONT DO THAT on Erie.

S.