Wayne.B wrote:
On Mon, 13 Aug 2007 21:00:46 -0700, wrote:

Wayne, the dealer's service department is proving to be fairly
marginal. They had a lot of trouble getting the 20 hour service and a
very simple warranty punch list right. I don't know that I'd trust
them with this issue, either as advisors or as implementers.

As long as you are prepared to pay for it yourself, I'd just find a
good boat canvas shop then and let them take care of it. They'll know
how to fix it but it may be a do over.


This sort of bimini doesn't wobble because it is properly supported.

http://tinyurl.com/3bqs5d

Go back to the link, and start at the beginning of the series. All your
Q's answered.
JR

Midlant wrote:
JR, since you built your own bimini frame, how did you get the width
correct when bending the tubing?
If I had a length of tubing and needed two bends, such as a bimini
frame, and I need a height of 49" and width of 88" and the tubing was of
appropriate length, where would I start the 90d bends?

John




--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth

"rbstern" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hello rec.boaters. Hope all is well and everyone is having a good
season.

Bought a Larson 22' bowrider earlier this year and had a very
enjoyable summer of cruising and water sports with family and
friends. Couple of small warranty issues, but overall she proved to
be solid and I am pleased with the boat.

However, there is one thing about the boat that is driving me nuts.
The bimini top: How it is attached to the boat, how much it flexes the
windshield at the attach points, and how much noise it makes because
of the flexing.

During any kind of chop, the bimini oscillates port and starboard, and
causes the windshield sides to flex very noticably. It's flexing
enough that I am concerned about gelcoat damage at the windshield/hull
attach points.

The bimini is a typical stainless tube structure. The base fixtures
are well attached to the gunnel (aft) and windshield frame (forward).

Here's a stock photo, and I've added a crude wireframe diagram to show
where the bimini attaches:

http://www.zjstech.net/larson/larsonbim1.gif

When deployed, two straps attach to anchor points at the corners of
the windshield.

Here's another stock photo showing the detail just inside the
windshield. The gunnel is several inches wide. The green lines
represent what I think is a logical place to put some type of support
post. I think it would look bad, breaking up the clean lines of the
gunnel, but I am at a loss for what else to do.

http://www.zjstech.net/larson/larsonbim2.gif

Getting rid of the bimini is not an option. Too much 12 o'clock sun
here in the south.

Suggestions appreciated.


We have a 20 foot runabout and I installed the bimini myself. I attached
the bimini frame to the gunnel area outside of the windshield. I then
attached rubber spacers between the frame and the vertical fiberglass area
running under the windshield to the gunnel. Anchor points for the fore and
aft straps are attached to that same fiberglass area running under the
windshield.

I still get some sway in the frame (when not up or not deployed) but at
least it is not flexing the windshield as in your case.

As and easy fix you may want to put the bimini up (deployed) when running as
the forward and aft securement straps will stop the sway (at least it does
in our case.).

If you want I can post link to a pic of our setup.

On Mon, 13 Aug 2007 16:26:20 -0700, rbstern wrote:

there is one thing about the boat that is driving me nuts.
The bimini top: How it is attached to the boat, how much it flexes the
windshield at the attach points, and how much noise it makes because
of the flexing.

It needs more bracing, attached to something solid. I'd make an issue
out of it with the dealer before the windshield frame breaks or is
distorted. Any good boat canvas shop should be able to give you a
quote on what is required.

Move your attachment points to the boat and off the windshield. You may
have enough height with you currrent frame to do that. Keep in mind that
you don't need it to be much taller than 6'6" from the boat floor inside.
The longer the frame the more it will sway.

"rbstern" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hello rec.boaters. Hope all is well and everyone is having a good
season.

Bought a Larson 22' bowrider earlier this year and had a very
enjoyable summer of cruising and water sports with family and
friends. Couple of small warranty issues, but overall she proved to
be solid and I am pleased with the boat.

However, there is one thing about the boat that is driving me nuts.
The bimini top: How it is attached to the boat, how much it flexes the
windshield at the attach points, and how much noise it makes because
of the flexing.

During any kind of chop, the bimini oscillates port and starboard, and
causes the windshield sides to flex very noticably. It's flexing
enough that I am concerned about gelcoat damage at the windshield/hull
attach points.

The bimini is a typical stainless tube structure. The base fixtures
are well attached to the gunnel (aft) and windshield frame (forward).

Here's a stock photo, and I've added a crude wireframe diagram to show
where the bimini attaches:

http://www.zjstech.net/larson/larsonbim1.gif

When deployed, two straps attach to anchor points at the corners of
the windshield.

Here's another stock photo showing the detail just inside the
windshield. The gunnel is several inches wide. The green lines
represent what I think is a logical place to put some type of support
post. I think it would look bad, breaking up the clean lines of the
gunnel, but I am at a loss for what else to do.

http://www.zjstech.net/larson/larsonbim2.gif

Getting rid of the bimini is not an option. Too much 12 o'clock sun
here in the south.

Suggestions appreciated.

On Aug 14, 8:09 am, "jamesgangnc" wrote:
Move your attachment points to the boat and off the windshield. You may
have enough height with you currrent frame to do that. Keep in mind that
you don't need it to be much taller than 6'6" from the boat floor inside.
The longer the frame the more it will sway.


Probably the best choice. Just need to do it neatly.

wrote in message
ups.com...
On Aug 14, 8:09 am, "jamesgangnc" wrote:
Move your attachment points to the boat and off the windshield. You may
have enough height with you currrent frame to do that. Keep in mind that
you don't need it to be much taller than 6'6" from the boat floor inside.
The longer the frame the more it will sway.


Probably the best choice. Just need to do it neatly.



My top snaps to the top of the windshield and has a zippered door at the
walk through. Only have straps to the back. About the back edge of the top
is the distance back.
The 2nd from the left in the lower pictures is the type top.
http://www.northriverboats.com/seahawk_21.html

"rbstern" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hello rec.boaters. Hope all is well and everyone is having a good
season.

Bought a Larson 22' bowrider earlier this year and had a very
enjoyable summer of cruising and water sports with family and
friends. Couple of small warranty issues, but overall she proved to
be solid and I am pleased with the boat.

However, there is one thing about the boat that is driving me nuts.
The bimini top: How it is attached to the boat, how much it flexes the
windshield at the attach points, and how much noise it makes because
of the flexing.

During any kind of chop, the bimini oscillates port and starboard, and
causes the windshield sides to flex very noticably. It's flexing
enough that I am concerned about gelcoat damage at the windshield/hull
attach points.

The bimini is a typical stainless tube structure. The base fixtures
are well attached to the gunnel (aft) and windshield frame (forward).

Here's a stock photo, and I've added a crude wireframe diagram to show
where the bimini attaches:

http://www.zjstech.net/larson/larsonbim1.gif

When deployed, two straps attach to anchor points at the corners of
the windshield.

Here's another stock photo showing the detail just inside the
windshield. The gunnel is several inches wide. The green lines
represent what I think is a logical place to put some type of support
post. I think it would look bad, breaking up the clean lines of the
gunnel, but I am at a loss for what else to do.

http://www.zjstech.net/larson/larsonbim2.gif

Getting rid of the bimini is not an option. Too much 12 o'clock sun
here in the south.

Suggestions appreciated.


Good thread!

I have been shopping for a bimini for my 19 footer. I have mount points in
the same position as you do on the windshield. I have two options -
windshield mount or using longer tubes and mounting it directly to the boat.

I do not know which would be the best way to attach the bimini. The problem
that I have is that to mount it outside of the windshield, the ledge is less
than an inch wide horizontally.

Question - what does the actual mount for bimini look like? How wide are
the actual mounts? Can they be mounted in off positions, such as on a 45
degree angle on the outside of the boat?

On Aug 20, 3:55 pm, "john" wrote:
"rbstern" wrote in message

ups.com...





Hello rec.boaters. Hope all is well and everyone is having a good
season.

Bought a Larson 22' bowrider earlier this year and had a very
enjoyable summer of cruising and water sports with family and
friends. Couple of small warranty issues, but overall she proved to
be solid and I am pleased with the boat.

However, there is one thing about the boat that is driving me nuts.
Thebiminitop: How it is attached to the boat, how much it flexes the
windshield at the attach points, and how much noise it makes because
of the flexing.

During any kind of chop, thebiminioscillates port and starboard, and
causes the windshield sides to flex very noticably. It's flexing
enough that I am concerned about gelcoat damage at the windshield/hull
attach points.

Thebiminiis a typical stainless tube structure. The base fixtures
are well attached to the gunnel (aft) and windshield frame (forward).

Here's a stock photo, and I've added a crude wireframe diagram to show
where thebiminiattaches:

http://www.zjstech.net/larson/larsonbim1.gif

When deployed, two straps attach to anchor points at the corners of
the windshield.

Here's another stock photo showing the detail just inside the
windshield. The gunnel is several inches wide. The green lines
represent what I think is a logical place to put some type of support
post. I think it would look bad, breaking up the clean lines of the
gunnel, but I am at a loss for what else to do.

http://www.zjstech.net/larson/larsonbim2.gif

Getting rid of thebiminiis not an option. Too much 12 o'clock sun
here in the south.

Suggestions appreciated.

Good thread!

I have been shopping for abiminifor my 19 footer. I have mount points in
the same position as you do on the windshield. I have two options -
windshield mount or using longer tubes and mounting it directly to the boat.

I do not know which would be the best way to attach thebimini. The problem
that I have is that to mount it outside of the windshield, the ledge is less
than an inch wide horizontally.

Question - what does the actual mount forbiminilook like? How wide are
the actual mounts? Can they be mounted in off positions, such as on a 45
degree angle on the outside of the boat?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

If you are still looking for a Bimini top, that's my specialty. Visit
our site http://www.BiminiTops.biz or www.BiminiTops.biz or give me a
call 1-888-458-BOAT I can look it up for you.