Seems that James is clueless also.

"James" wrote in message
link.net...
I don't think so. The similarity between a 2002 merc i/o and your
outboards ends somewhere around the fact that they both use gas.

My first guess would be that he has the same alarm setup merc used for
years. A collection of sensors is tied to an alarm. Nothing to do with
the fuel control computer. If that is the case then he needs to determine
is an alarm sensor is malfunctioning or if one of his gauges is not
working. Probably safe to say he has oil pressure or he would have had
some other nasty symptoms by now. Overheating is the other possibility.

The correct test is to remove the sensor, hang it in a pot of water with a
continuity or ohm meter on it and a thermometer it and raise the temp
until it trips. Of course the shop would simply stick another sensor in
and if that didn't work you'd get charged for it anyway.

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 11 Mar 2007 18:50:57 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Sun, 11 Mar 2007 22:33:57 GMT, "James" wrote:

Have you looked at the owner's manual? Sometimes a tone code is
generated
to indicate the trouble area.
Jim

Yes, I've been through the owners manual *very* carefully, and no,
there are no tone codes.

It would be nice if they'd give you some indication but that doesn't
seem to be the case. Apparently factory service technicians can tap
into the ECM (Engine Control Module) and get more data.

My ETECS have a system which indicates a "code" - this light blinks so
many times it means this, etc.

Sadly, you still have to get to the ECM to find out which sensor or
thingymajigger is FUBAR.

I wonder if those ecm readers that NAPA and Auto Zone sells might tell
you what's what.

On Mon, 12 Mar 2007 12:59:14 GMT, "James" wrote:

The correct test is to remove the sensor, hang it in a pot of water with a
continuity or ohm meter on it and a thermometer it and raise the temp until
it trips. Of course the shop would simply stick another sensor in and if
that didn't work you'd get charged for it anyway.

It's not the temperature sensor. We did a test the other day where we
unplugged it. The alarm system gives two short beeps to alert you and
then stops. Running with the temp sensor disconnected we stil got the
other alarm after several minutes of running at 3400 RPM. When I heat
gun the thermostat housing where both the temp guage sender and alarm
sensor are located, the temperature is within a few degrees of the
thermostat (160 degrees).

The owners manual says that alarm trips are recorded by the ECM.

On Mar 12, 11:05 am, Wayne.B wrote:
On Mon, 12 Mar 2007 12:59:14 GMT, "James" wrote:
The correct test is to remove the sensor, hang it in a pot of water with a
continuity or ohm meter on it and a thermometer it and raise the temp until
it trips. Of course the shop would simply stick another sensor in and if
that didn't work you'd get charged for it anyway.

It's not the temperature sensor. We did a test the other day where we
unplugged it. The alarm system gives two short beeps to alert you and
then stops. Running with the temp sensor disconnected we stil got the
other alarm after several minutes of running at 3400 RPM. When I heat
gun the thermostat housing where both the temp guage sender and alarm
sensor are located, the temperature is within a few degrees of the
thermostat (160 degrees).

The owners manual says that alarm trips are recorded by the ECM.

Starting to sound like a trip to the dealer :-(

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
I have a 2002 Searay 270 Sundeck with a 320 hp Mercruiser 6.2L
MPI/Bravo 3 Duoprop which has just developed an engine alarm problem.

After running 10 to 15 minutes at a cruising speed of about 3400 RPM,
the engine alarm sounds. Oil pressure, oil level, engine temperature
and outdrive lubrication levels all appear to be normal. The alarm
continues to sound until idling back and shifting into neurtral.

If I run below 3100 RPM the alarm does not go off.

I have checked the engine with a digital heat gun and can find no sign
of abnormal temperatures anywhere. The serpentine belt is properly
tightened and everything else seems normal in every way.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to troubleshoot this problem ?

Is there any diagnostic equipment or process available to find out
exactly which sensor is being tripped ?


The behavior you describe is usually associated with a low level of outdrive
lubricant in the reservoir, but you say it's normal. I would suggest having
another person aboard and having them visually inspect the level of the
reservoir while the boat is running at 3100+ RPM to see if the level has
dropped.

On Sun, 11 Mar 2007 10:48:55 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote:

I have a 2002 Searay 270 Sundeck with a 320 hp Mercruiser 6.2L
MPI/Bravo 3 Duoprop which has just developed an engine alarm problem.

After running 10 to 15 minutes at a cruising speed of about 3400 RPM,
the engine alarm sounds. Oil pressure, oil level, engine temperature
and outdrive lubrication levels all appear to be normal. The alarm
continues to sound until idling back and shifting into neurtral.

If I run below 3100 RPM the alarm does not go off.

I have checked the engine with a digital heat gun and can find no sign
of abnormal temperatures anywhere. The serpentine belt is properly
tightened and everything else seems normal in every way.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to troubleshoot this problem ?

Might be difficult without the tools. This might interest you.
http://boards.trailerboats.com/cgi-b...c;f=4;t=000248

Is there any diagnostic equipment or process available to find out
exactly which sensor is being tripped ?

Here's a link that points to a code reader. Might be expensive, but
personally I find knowing what codes an ECU is storing is golden.
Due diligence required to make sure the reader suits your 6.2.
http://forums.iboats.com/bbBoard.cgi...4;gtid=1262518

--Vic

On Mon, 12 Mar 2007 17:13:37 GMT, "RG" wrote:

The behavior you describe is usually associated with a low level of outdrive
lubricant in the reservoir, but you say it's normal. I would suggest having
another person aboard and having them visually inspect the level of the
reservoir while the boat is running at 3100+ RPM to see if the level has
dropped.

Thanks but we did that. It seemed to be fine.

On Mon, 12 Mar 2007 13:46:10 -0600, Vic Smith
wrote:

Might be difficult without the tools. This might interest you.
http://boards.trailerboats.com/cgi-b...c;f=4;t=000248

Is there any diagnostic equipment or process available to find out
exactly which sensor is being tripped ?

Here's a link that points to a code reader. Might be expensive, but
personally I find knowing what codes an ECU is storing is golden.
Due diligence required to make sure the reader suits your 6.2.
http://forums.iboats.com/bbBoard.cgi...4;gtid=1262518

=========================

Good information, thanks.

On 12 Mar 2007 09:21:04 -0700, "jamesgangnc"
wrote:

On Mar 12, 11:05 am, Wayne.B wrote:
On Mon, 12 Mar 2007 12:59:14 GMT, "James" wrote:
The correct test is to remove the sensor, hang it in a pot of water with a
continuity or ohm meter on it and a thermometer it and raise the temp until
it trips. Of course the shop would simply stick another sensor in and if
that didn't work you'd get charged for it anyway.

It's not the temperature sensor. We did a test the other day where we
unplugged it. The alarm system gives two short beeps to alert you and
then stops. Running with the temp sensor disconnected we stil got the
other alarm after several minutes of running at 3400 RPM. When I heat
gun the thermostat housing where both the temp guage sender and alarm
sensor are located, the temperature is within a few degrees of the
thermostat (160 degrees).

The owners manual says that alarm trips are recorded by the ECM.

Starting to sound like a trip to the dealer :-(

==================================

Maybe a "platinum" dealer if I can find one.

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 12 Mar 2007 17:13:37 GMT, "RG" wrote:

The behavior you describe is usually associated with a low level of
outdrive
lubricant in the reservoir, but you say it's normal. I would suggest
having
another person aboard and having them visually inspect the level of the
reservoir while the boat is running at 3100+ RPM to see if the level has
dropped.

Thanks but we did that. It seemed to be fine.

Well, you have a bit of a head scratcher on your hands there. Probably the
shortest route to a diagnosis would be to read any codes that may have been
thrown. Probably a dealer issue.

I'm pretty surprised that in 2002 merc is feeding the other sending units to
the computer. For quite a while they simply controlled fuel with it. Does
sound like that might have changed. The similarity between a couple
outboards and a chevy big block i/o is still almost non-existent.

By way of credentials I built the engine in my boat. Just finished a valve
adjustment after a cam change this spring in this picture. Block is a 40
over 350 from a 3/4 ton panel truck with aluminum heads and intake. Roller
cam, lifters, and rockers. Stainless marine exhaust with Corsa cutouts.
Plus custom cooling and lowered alternator and power steering pump.

http://home.earthlink.net/~jamesgangnc/ebay/boateng.jpg


"Jim" wrote in message
nk.net...
Seems that James is clueless also.

"James" wrote in message
link.net...
I don't think so. The similarity between a 2002 merc i/o and your
outboards ends somewhere around the fact that they both use gas.

My first guess would be that he has the same alarm setup merc used for
years. A collection of sensors is tied to an alarm. Nothing to do with
the fuel control computer. If that is the case then he needs to
determine is an alarm sensor is malfunctioning or if one of his gauges is
not working. Probably safe to say he has oil pressure or he would have
had some other nasty symptoms by now. Overheating is the other
possibility.

The correct test is to remove the sensor, hang it in a pot of water with
a continuity or ohm meter on it and a thermometer it and raise the temp
until it trips. Of course the shop would simply stick another sensor in
and if that didn't work you'd get charged for it anyway.

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 11 Mar 2007 18:50:57 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Sun, 11 Mar 2007 22:33:57 GMT, "James" wrote:

Have you looked at the owner's manual? Sometimes a tone code is
generated
to indicate the trouble area.
Jim

Yes, I've been through the owners manual *very* carefully, and no,
there are no tone codes.

It would be nice if they'd give you some indication but that doesn't
seem to be the case. Apparently factory service technicians can tap
into the ECM (Engine Control Module) and get more data.

My ETECS have a system which indicates a "code" - this light blinks so
many times it means this, etc.

Sadly, you still have to get to the ECM to find out which sensor or
thingymajigger is FUBAR.

I wonder if those ecm readers that NAPA and Auto Zone sells might tell
you what's what.