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#1
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Thanks for all the replies on trailer tires and boat polish!
OK, here's another question. Evidently on this Marquis 22foot'r, someone had either added a bow railing, or did some kind of repairs. I noticed inside the cuddy where you could see water stains, evidently from leaking though the edge of the roof cap. Not damaged but stains. On closer investigation, I see where someone had run screws into the cap and all is solid. BUT! Underneath the railing supposts, it's just metal to fiberglass and nothing in between. *ugh!* Which I find quite odd. I an thinking there should be some type of gasket material in between, like plastic, rubber or the sort, to keep water from leaking in. i know, these mounts come in all shapes and sizes and finding and giong to a dealer and saying "Gimme some railing gaskets!" wouldn't go over very well. Is there any source on where to go for this kind of stuff, or do you make you're own? I can make them, I suppose but I didn't really care to cut up an old truck mud flap, (well, maybe as a last resort) ?:-) And I would like to make it look like a neat factory job, instead of cobbery. What do you all suggest? Thanks! |
#2
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#3
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On 16 Nov 2006 16:52:17 -0800, "Chuck Gould"
wrote: wrote: What do you all suggest? Thanks! It's not uncommon to mount the rail directly on the deck without a rubber gasket beneath. The important part is to squirt some Sikaflex or other sealer into the fastener holes to prevent water from wicking into the interior of your boat, a cored laminate, or etc. (Don't use 5200 to seal the fasteners unless you are *positive* you will never need to remove them. You can use 4200, but not 5200). I've seen it recommended to use oil when driving SS into glass, to prevent galling. Do you know of a respected FAQ(s) for attaching fittings to different boat materials? Thanks. --Vic |
#5
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#6
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![]() Don White wrote: I use 3M 4200 sealant from a tube on my sailboat. I apply it around all the screw holes and under fitting edges. AH! 3M again. I really hadent heard of it by the name Chuck used. I've also been looking at sources for rub rail repair. water could be leaking behind it, between the hull and the cap. I've been looking through some archives and reading about the rub rail, This has some gouges in it, but I've seen like the screw heads are pushing out against the rubber insert. making a "bump" about every 4 inch's or so. hmmmm. |
#7
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Tim wrote:
Don White wrote: I use 3M 4200 sealant from a tube on my sailboat. I apply it around all the screw holes and under fitting edges. AH! 3M again. I really hadent heard of it by the name Chuck used. I've also been looking at sources for rub rail repair. water could be leaking behind it, between the hull and the cap. I've been looking through some archives and reading about the rub rail, This has some gouges in it, but I've seen like the screw heads are pushing out against the rubber insert. making a "bump" about every 4 inch's or so. hmmmm. A number of owners with Sandpiper 565 sailboats have removed the teak rubrail by drilling out the plugs and then removing the screws. After re-finishing the wood they re-attach using 3M 4200to seal the screw holes between the rail & fiberglass hull and along the under edges. Lastly, they use new teak plugs to hide the recessed screws. I will probably do this job in the spring. |
#8
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![]() Tim wrote: 3M again. I really hadent heard of it by the name Chuck used. Sikaflex and 4200 are two different products. But either should work. |
#9
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![]() Chuck Gould wrote: Tim wrote: 3M again. I really hadent heard of it by the name Chuck used. Sikaflex and 4200 are two different products. But either should work. |
#10
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Chuck Gould wrote:
Tim wrote: 3M again. I really hadent heard of it by the name Chuck used. Sikaflex and 4200 are two different products. But either should work. Both are polysulfide. Polysulfide come in a variety of flavours, including household bathroom sealer. UV protection is desirable. Paintability depends. Discoloration is a factor. Abhor silicone! Terry K |
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