A guy brought in a starter to me today for a rebuild, and it had all
the paint removed, and was really, I mean, REALLY clean. No chemical
used, nor sand blasted.

I wondered what he did to clean the core so well, and not put it in a
tumbler, or use chemicals or sand . the metal was very nice.

He said he used a "pneumatic Jet chisel", He uses it to take heavy
paint off of engine blocks on antique tractors and cars he restores. he
said it takes the thick paint and rust off with ease.

I'd heard fo them but never did see one used, or their finished
product. he said it beats using a wire wheel, in a drill, and it
doesn't jerk and fly around. After seeing his finish product before
prime and paint, I was really impressed.

There are different makes and types. He says he got an attachment to
put in a typical air chisel, but you can get a dedicated tool as well.

The boat I bought, the trailer is quite rusty, and it's going to get
stripped , primed and painted this winter, and I really wasn't wanting
to use paint stripper, and the ideal of dancing with a drill wheel
isn't my idea of fun, so I'm going to order an air chisel, that is, if
I can't find one locally.


http://all-kmarine.en.alibaba.com/pr...et_Chisel.html


Anyone, ever use one?

comments?

Thanks!

wrote in news:1163455786.370838.64510
@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

He said he used a "pneumatic Jet chisel"

For you Navy deck techs, it's a needle gun.

I have a thousand hours using a needle gun back when I was a junior ET
aboard USS Everglades (AD-24) about 1966...."Those Were The Days". I don't
believe anything makes more noise on a steel bulkhead than a needle gun on
60 PSI of air....(c;....or makes a sleeping Chief any madder...

Now I remember why I was so hot to sew on more stripes!

Larry
--
My calendar must be wrong....
In all the stores, it's ALREADY Christmas!

On Mon, 13 Nov 2006 19:23:29 -0500, Larry wrote:

wrote in news:1163455786.370838.64510
:

He said he used a "pneumatic Jet chisel"

For you Navy deck techs, it's a needle gun.

Wasn't used topside only. I've put plenty of hours with them in the
fireroom. They dimple even heavy steel if not used with a light
touch. The Navy needle guns I used had "needles" about 3/32' to 1/8"'
in diameter, and I saw only that size. I bet if you can get finer
needles you might be able to reduce or eliminate dimpling, at the cost
of chipping speed. As I recall they always worked well on heavy,
brittle paint, which would chip off easily. On soft or thin paint
they were much less effective, but the hammering of the paint would
make it come off easier with a scraper or brush. They *are* about the
easiest to control hand power tool.

--Vic

If this link works ok, harbor Freight has one for $50. and replacement
cartridges for $10.

3mm rods

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=1109

I figure that might be a cheap experiment.



Vic Smith wrote:
On Mon, 13 Nov 2006 19:23:29 -0500, Larry wrote:

wrote in news:1163455786.370838.64510
:

He said he used a "pneumatic Jet chisel"

For you Navy deck techs, it's a needle gun.

Wasn't used topside only. I've put plenty of hours with them in the
fireroom. They dimple even heavy steel if not used with a light
touch. The Navy needle guns I used had "needles" about 3/32' to 1/8"'
in diameter, and I saw only that size. I bet if you can get finer
needles you might be able to reduce or eliminate dimpling, at the cost
of chipping speed. As I recall they always worked well on heavy,
brittle paint, which would chip off easily. On soft or thin paint
they were much less effective, but the hammering of the paint would
make it come off easier with a scraper or brush. They *are* about the
easiest to control hand power tool.

--Vic

Yep, Thats a needle gun, They serve their purpose well, but the needles
can leave pock marks on mild steel, The best way to avoid pock marking
the metal is to place the needles at 45 degree's to the surface.
I also wouldn't use one on anything made of cast iron. Just my 2 cents.
UD

UglyDan®©™ wrote:
Yep, Thats a needle gun, They serve their purpose well, but the needles
can leave pock marks on mild steel, The best way to avoid pock marking
the metal is to place the needles at 45 degree's to the surface.
I also wouldn't use one on anything made of cast iron. Just my 2 cents.
UD

Thanks guys,

As you know, a trailer is made (usually) of a lot of heavy, flat,
squared stock with little change in it's surfaces. With exception of
brake lines and fender, suspension supports, it ought to do well on the
majority of stuff. I haven't looked that much, but if I can un-bolt the
fenders. I'll do them individually, as well as the total frame. I might
look things over and wait till this spring, because I can dump the tub
off into my neighbors pond, and re roller the trailer and do it all at
once. But, thanks for the tip on angling the needle gun. I have seen
pics of them that do have the needles in an "upward" angle.

wrote in news:1163465817.338898.173310
@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com:

As you know, a trailer is made (usually) of a lot of heavy, flat,
squared stock with little change in it's surfaces. With exception of


And, with a trailer, who cares that the surface of it doesn't look like a
chrome hubcap?....it's a TRAILER!

Larry
--
My calendar must be wrong....
In all the stores, it's ALREADY Christmas!

exactly, but it should look like a nice traier, instead of something
brought up from the deck of the Bismark.. ?:



Larry wrote:
wrote in news:1163465817.338898.173310
@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com:

As you know, a trailer is made (usually) of a lot of heavy, flat,
squared stock with little change in it's surfaces. With exception of


And, with a trailer, who cares that the surface of it doesn't look like a
chrome hubcap?....it's a TRAILER!

Larry
--
My calendar must be wrong....
In all the stores, it's ALREADY Christmas!

wrote in news:1163521180.047516.178820
@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com:

exactly, but it should look like a nice traier, instead of something
brought up from the deck of the Bismark.. ?:



It should look like an ALUMINUM trailer, then all this wouldn't be
necessary....(c;

Larry
--
My calendar must be wrong....
In all the stores, it's ALREADY Christmas!

wrote:
A guy brought in a starter to me today for a rebuild, and it had all
the paint removed, and was really, I mean, REALLY clean. No chemical
used, nor sand blasted.

I wondered what he did to clean the core so well, and not put it in a
tumbler, or use chemicals or sand . the metal was very nice.

He said he used a "pneumatic Jet chisel", He uses it to take heavy
paint off of engine blocks on antique tractors and cars he restores. he
said it takes the thick paint and rust off with ease.

I'd heard fo them but never did see one used, or their finished
product. he said it beats using a wire wheel, in a drill, and it
doesn't jerk and fly around. After seeing his finish product before
prime and paint, I was really impressed.

There are different makes and types. He says he got an attachment to
put in a typical air chisel, but you can get a dedicated tool as well.

The boat I bought, the trailer is quite rusty, and it's going to get
stripped , primed and painted this winter, and I really wasn't wanting
to use paint stripper, and the ideal of dancing with a drill wheel
isn't my idea of fun, so I'm going to order an air chisel, that is, if
I can't find one locally.


http://all-kmarine.en.alibaba.com/pr...et_Chisel.html


Anyone, ever use one?

comments?

Thanks!



That looks interesting, I normally use a sandblaster for that sort of
thing, but it's a bit messy and some things you have to be careful not
to leave leftover sand in.