A guy brought in a starter to me today for a rebuild, and it had all
the paint removed, and was really, I mean, REALLY clean. No chemical
used, nor sand blasted.

I wondered what he did to clean the core so well, and not put it in a
tumbler, or use chemicals or sand . the metal was very nice.

He said he used a "pneumatic Jet chisel", He uses it to take heavy
paint off of engine blocks on antique tractors and cars he restores. he
said it takes the thick paint and rust off with ease.

I'd heard fo them but never did see one used, or their finished
product. he said it beats using a wire wheel, in a drill, and it
doesn't jerk and fly around. After seeing his finish product before
prime and paint, I was really impressed.

There are different makes and types. He says he got an attachment to
put in a typical air chisel, but you can get a dedicated tool as well.

The boat I bought, the trailer is quite rusty, and it's going to get
stripped , primed and painted this winter, and I really wasn't wanting
to use paint stripper, and the ideal of dancing with a drill wheel
isn't my idea of fun, so I'm going to order an air chisel, that is, if
I can't find one locally.


http://all-kmarine.en.alibaba.com/pr...et_Chisel.html


Anyone, ever use one?

comments?

Thanks!

Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
On 13 Nov 2006 14:09:46 -0800, wrote:

Anyone, ever use one?

Yep - used them on exactly the same ting he did - antique tractors and
the International L-110 pickup.

comments?

You need to get used to them and they will put a unpleasant dent in
your body if you slip, but they work well.

You still need to do wire wheel and wire brush work though.


Thanks Tom, I thought the tool was to eliminate wire brushing, though.

Yep, Thats a needle gun, They serve their purpose well, but the needles
can leave pock marks on mild steel, The best way to avoid pock marking
the metal is to place the needles at 45 degree's to the surface.
I also wouldn't use one on anything made of cast iron. Just my 2 cents.
UD

wrote in news:1163455786.370838.64510
@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

He said he used a "pneumatic Jet chisel"

For you Navy deck techs, it's a needle gun.

I have a thousand hours using a needle gun back when I was a junior ET
aboard USS Everglades (AD-24) about 1966...."Those Were The Days". I don't
believe anything makes more noise on a steel bulkhead than a needle gun on
60 PSI of air....(c;....or makes a sleeping Chief any madder...

Now I remember why I was so hot to sew on more stripes!

Larry
--
My calendar must be wrong....
In all the stores, it's ALREADY Christmas!

UglyDan®©™ wrote:
Yep, Thats a needle gun, They serve their purpose well, but the needles
can leave pock marks on mild steel, The best way to avoid pock marking
the metal is to place the needles at 45 degree's to the surface.
I also wouldn't use one on anything made of cast iron. Just my 2 cents.
UD

Thanks guys,

As you know, a trailer is made (usually) of a lot of heavy, flat,
squared stock with little change in it's surfaces. With exception of
brake lines and fender, suspension supports, it ought to do well on the
majority of stuff. I haven't looked that much, but if I can un-bolt the
fenders. I'll do them individually, as well as the total frame. I might
look things over and wait till this spring, because I can dump the tub
off into my neighbors pond, and re roller the trailer and do it all at
once. But, thanks for the tip on angling the needle gun. I have seen
pics of them that do have the needles in an "upward" angle.

On Mon, 13 Nov 2006 19:23:29 -0500, Larry wrote:

wrote in news:1163455786.370838.64510
:

He said he used a "pneumatic Jet chisel"

For you Navy deck techs, it's a needle gun.

Wasn't used topside only. I've put plenty of hours with them in the
fireroom. They dimple even heavy steel if not used with a light
touch. The Navy needle guns I used had "needles" about 3/32' to 1/8"'
in diameter, and I saw only that size. I bet if you can get finer
needles you might be able to reduce or eliminate dimpling, at the cost
of chipping speed. As I recall they always worked well on heavy,
brittle paint, which would chip off easily. On soft or thin paint
they were much less effective, but the hammering of the paint would
make it come off easier with a scraper or brush. They *are* about the
easiest to control hand power tool.

--Vic

If this link works ok, harbor Freight has one for $50. and replacement
cartridges for $10.

3mm rods

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=1109

I figure that might be a cheap experiment.



Vic Smith wrote:
On Mon, 13 Nov 2006 19:23:29 -0500, Larry wrote:

wrote in news:1163455786.370838.64510
:

He said he used a "pneumatic Jet chisel"

For you Navy deck techs, it's a needle gun.

Wasn't used topside only. I've put plenty of hours with them in the
fireroom. They dimple even heavy steel if not used with a light
touch. The Navy needle guns I used had "needles" about 3/32' to 1/8"'
in diameter, and I saw only that size. I bet if you can get finer
needles you might be able to reduce or eliminate dimpling, at the cost
of chipping speed. As I recall they always worked well on heavy,
brittle paint, which would chip off easily. On soft or thin paint
they were much less effective, but the hammering of the paint would
make it come off easier with a scraper or brush. They *are* about the
easiest to control hand power tool.

--Vic

Oh, believe me, Tom. it deffinately can. 10 hp v twin dual stage with
750 gal. of storage capacity. I think it would out run me..... ?:


Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
On 13 Nov 2006 17:59:18 -0800, wrote:

If this link works ok, harbor Freight has one for $50. and replacement
cartridges for $10.

3mm rods

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=1109

I figure that might be a cheap experiment.

Just remember to check if you air compressor can handle the CFM
requirements of the tool.

On 13 Nov 2006 18:12:54 -0800, wrote:

Oh, believe me, Tom. it deffinately can. 10 hp v twin dual stage with
750 gal. of storage capacity. I think it would out run me..... ?:

In that case, if the needle gun doesn't do, you can roll that trailer
on a tarp and sand blast it.
BTW, I've cleaned plenty of metal, and the nicest equipment I've
used for small stuff is a blast box blowing glass beads. Won't take
metal off and does a polish finish. Wasn't mine, it was at Beaver
Heat Treat in Oregon, where I worked for a short while.
But if I did a lot of metal cleaning I'd set up such a box.

--Vic

Thaks Vic. i run a starter/alternator/generator shop, and I have a
blast cabinet. and use it quite a bit. I don't go over 90 psi because
theres no need for me to do so. Thats one reason I have quite a large
volume tank. Actually the main compressor tank plus a 500 gal propane
tank. Actually I don't even need a compressor that heavy, but I bought
it cheap, so therefore economicly it's been well worth the overkill. No
way can I outrun my compressor with my blast cabinet.

I've thought of the idea of sand blasting the trailer, I can push it up
to 175 psi. with no problem, but I'd have to do it out of doors, which
means I'd need to run quite a bit of hose and use a whole bunch of
sand. I agree that glass bead is a lot nicer and does a really neat
job, but at about 24 bucks a bag compared to $6 for sand. it's more
economical to go the cheap route. I was thinking the chisel would be
better because I can use it in the warehouse when it's 20 degrees
outside with snow blowing up the pazoo.



Vic Smith wrote:
On 13 Nov 2006 18:12:54 -0800, wrote:

Oh, believe me, Tom. it deffinately can. 10 hp v twin dual stage with
750 gal. of storage capacity. I think it would out run me..... ?:

In that case, if the needle gun doesn't do, you can roll that trailer
on a tarp and sand blast it.
BTW, I've cleaned plenty of metal, and the nicest equipment I've
used for small stuff is a blast box blowing glass beads. Won't take
metal off and does a polish finish. Wasn't mine, it was at Beaver
Heat Treat in Oregon, where I worked for a short while.
But if I did a lot of metal cleaning I'd set up such a box.

--Vic