My cost is for 1 gallon of automotive antifreeze, an oil filter, 5 quarts of
oil, and a shot of lower unit grease, 8 spark plugs, a shot of oil to top
off the trim pump, and a dose of Sta-Bil. In the spring it's ready to hit
the water!

Don Dando

Don Dando wrote:
My cost is for 1 gallon of automotive antifreeze, an oil filter, 5 quarts of
oil, and a shot of lower unit grease, 8 spark plugs, a shot of oil to top
off the trim pump, and a dose of Sta-Bil. In the spring it's ready to hit
the water!

Don Dando


Don,
I hope you are using biodegrable antifreeze (the pink stuff) and not
convential auto antifreeze. Regular antifreeze does not play nicely
with the water and those who live and play in the water.

Don Dando wrote:
My cost is for 1 gallon of automotive antifreeze, an oil filter, 5 quarts of
oil, and a shot of lower unit grease, 8 spark plugs, a shot of oil to top
off the trim pump, and a dose of Sta-Bil. In the spring it's ready to hit
the water!

Don Dando

What? No fogging oil? And what about gearlube change? What's lower unit
grease?

For 4 stroke I/O's:

1. Is it recommended that you change the spark plugs upon winterizing or is
it better to change them in the spring?

2. How about fuel tank...leave it full w/fuel stabilizer?

Mike


"bowgus" wrote in message
ps.com...

Don Dando wrote:
My cost is for 1 gallon of automotive antifreeze, an oil filter, 5 quarts
of
oil, and a shot of lower unit grease, 8 spark plugs, a shot of oil to top
off the trim pump, and a dose of Sta-Bil. In the spring it's ready to
hit
the water!

Don Dando

What? No fogging oil? And what about gearlube change? What's lower unit
grease?

Mike & Christine Salome wrote:
For 4 stroke I/O's:

1. Is it recommended that you change the spark plugs upon winterizing or is
it better to change them in the spring?


I'd change them when they're worn out, a set of plugs should last longer
than a season.



2. How about fuel tank...leave it full w/fuel stabilizer?



I'd lean towards leaving it empty, though it may collect moisture in
some climates. If you leave fuel in it, stabilizer is definitely a good
idea.

Mike & Christine Salome wrote:
For 4 stroke I/O's:

1. Is it recommended that you change the spark plugs upon winterizing or is
it better to change them in the spring?

2. How about fuel tank...leave it full w/fuel stabilizer?


Don't suppose it matters when the plugs are changed ... on my old boat,
I checked them now and then just to monitor how the engine was doing.
And sure it's best to keep the tank topped up (year round) but with my
carburated engine I'm not that concerned, condensation has never been a
problem. Maybe trailering and storing the boat up and away from the
high humidity of the water helps with that. Now if I had efi I'd keep
it topped up year round and I'd be checking the water separator
regularly.

Last time I changed my plugs was 4 years ago. Plugs don't go back that
frequently unless your engine has problems.

"Mike & Christine Salome" wrote in message
. ..
For 4 stroke I/O's:

1. Is it recommended that you change the spark plugs upon winterizing or
is it better to change them in the spring?

2. How about fuel tank...leave it full w/fuel stabilizer?

Mike


"bowgus" wrote in message
ps.com...

Don Dando wrote:
My cost is for 1 gallon of automotive antifreeze, an oil filter, 5
quarts of
oil, and a shot of lower unit grease, 8 spark plugs, a shot of oil to
top
off the trim pump, and a dose of Sta-Bil. In the spring it's ready to
hit
the water!

Don Dando

What? No fogging oil? And what about gearlube change? What's lower unit
grease?

James wrote:
Last time I changed my plugs was 4 years ago. Plugs don't go back that
frequently unless your engine has problems.

Exactly. I don't know how many people waste money on new plugs because
they are dirty! Clean them! It's not like there are moving parts in
there to go bad! When they show signs of wear, like the electrodes
rounding off, THEN replace them. But, if the electrodes are wearing to
the point where you have to change plugs each season, you've got other
issues.