Self-winterizing is not for everyone. I enjoy the work and the process
provides a better understanding and detailed personal inspection of the
equipment. The following method is safe, allows for winter boating, and
the cost to re-winterize is minimal.

1- Clean & wax hull thoroughly

2- Fill gas tanks, and then add Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer to tanks. Follow
directions on Sta-Bil container.

3- Lower unit service:

A- Carefully inspect lower unit and prop for any damage:

1- Most prop damage is repairable. (Take to prop shop if repair needed)

2- Cosmetic repair to skeg can be accomplished by using Grey MarineTex
($6) or Aluminox ($6), and spray cans of primer & paint from your local
boat dealer (under $10 each).

B- OEM lower unit oil change:

Use lower unit oil change kit available from your dealer. Follow
included instructions. Dave Brown has an excellent description of this
process on his website.

Remove prop if theft problem.

Every other year have dealer pull, inspect, relube, service, and apply
new seals. While you could do this, it's inexpensive insurance against
future problems and obtains a good second opinion about the health of
the drive.

3- Oil change & filter:

A- Warm engine to normal operating temperature using lower unit
earmuffs. Water flow from hose should be very low, as medium flow will
not allow engine to reach needed temperatures. Insure you have some flow
at all times. This 'flow check' can be accomplished by using the Camco
winterizing kit in pass through mode.

B- When normal engine operating temperature is indicated on your
temperature gauge, stop engine & water flow. Remove dipstick and use
manual or electric pump to extract oil into a safe container. Take extra
care to insure thin and hard dipstick pump tube reaches the bottom of
engine. Both manual & drill motor pump kits can be found at most dealers
for around $10. More expensive pump systems can easily be found, but if
patience and care are utilized, the inexpensive ones will do just as
good a job. Suggest taking old oil to service station for disposal.

C- Remove old oil filter by putting H/D plastic garbage bag over filter
and another plastic trash sack under filter and spread out to catch
drips. Removing old filter with oil filter wrench. Place old filter &
bag in a safe place out of the way. Then apply a thin coat of oil to new
filter seal, wipe filter fitting clean, and hand tighten new filter. Do
not overtighten.

D- Replace EOM engine oil using funnel (usually 5 or 6 quarts). Use
dipstick to verify fill level.

This is a good time to check tilt & trim reservoir, belts, hoses, oil
leaks, loose fittings or parts, & the overall cleanliness of the engine
compartment. If something looks suspicious, repair or replace it. Keep
that engine compartment clean.

4- Freeze protecting engine:

I use the Camco winterizing kit available from most boat supply catalogs
for about $30. The Camco kit really simplifies freeze protection of the
engine, and to my knowledge has never failed to fully protect an engine
when diligent care was taken with its usage. The Camco kit uses 5
gallons of inexpensive RV antifreeze.

The procedu

A- Pull flame arrester from carburetor. Re-warm engine to normal
operating temperature using antifreeze FILLED Camco container sitting on
swim platform or gunwale in bypass mode. Intake of container is
connected to water source and the output goes to leg earmuffs. Hose
pressure should be quite low to allow engine to reach normal operating
temperature. Continually monitor the clear tubes that come with the
Camco kit to insure water is flowing to the engine and has not been
stopped by a faulty tap. Err on the side of caution when deciding when
proper temperature has been reached, the thermostat MUST be open. When
temperature gauge indicates normal engine operating temperature and you
are convinced that the thermostat is open, turn the Camco bypass knob to
shut off water and allow antifreeze to drain to engine. Use the entire 5
Gallons. When you get down to the last gallon of antifreeze start
spraying the can of engine fogging oil into carburetor intake. Try to
keep engine RPM steady. Shut down engine when Camco container is empty.
You're engine is now freeze protected.

5- Plumbing & Air Conditioning Systems:

These must be freeze protected. The procedure varies from boat to boat
and has been fully described in posts from Dave Brown, Peggy Hall, and
others in this forum. I would defer to the experts here.

6- Battery and cold sensitive boat items. Last step in winterizing is
removal of any cold sensitive items stored on the boat and removal of
the batteries. I store batteries in a heated basement and provide an
occasional booster charge if needed.

7- Storage tips:

A- Block trailer if temperatures reach freezing.
B- Winter store with leg down.
C- Use plastic trash bag with tie to protect lower unit. Cut hole in
bottom of bag to allow water drainage.
D- Heated indoor boat storage is best during winter months. Don't rule
out non-traditional means such as farmers with large barns or unused
manufacturing facilities with adequate security protection.
E- Protect that boat against entry of pests. Seal hull openings

--
Skipper

stabilizer needs to be in the fuel system to prevent degradation. if
stabil or other brand is only in the tank, the lines and carburetor are
unprotected. run the engine to circulate treated fuel throughout.

remember to fog to protect the rings, cylinder walls and valves from
rust.

editor
http://www.marineenginedigest.com

ed wrote:

stabilizer needs to be in the fuel system to prevent degradation. if
stabil or other brand is only in the tank, the lines and carburetor are
unprotected. run the engine to circulate treated fuel throughout.

remember to fog to protect the rings, cylinder walls and valves from
rust.

editor
http://www.marineenginedigest.com

Is your position that if StaBil is added when filling tanks and then
boat is taken to winterizing site to be warmed up, that getting the
engine to normal operating temps is not sufficient to stabilize the fuel
system?

--
Skipper

"Skipper" wrote in message
...
C- Remove old oil filter by putting H/D plastic garbage bag over filter
and another plastic trash sack under filter and spread out to catch
drips. Removing old filter with oil filter wrench. Place old filter &
bag in a safe place out of the way.

It took me 2 years to figure this out. I used a pan under the oil filter,
the way I used to do on my car. No matter how hard I tried I ended up
spilling over a half cup of oil into the bilge. Since I like to keep my
bilge dry and clean this was a bitch to clean up. Using the High Density
plastic bag and a absorption pad under the filter, I don't have to clean up
the bilge at all. I also fill the new oil filter with oil before
installing the filter.

I think Ed just missed that in your post, and wanted to make sure it was
included.


"Skipper" wrote in message
...
ed wrote:

stabilizer needs to be in the fuel system to prevent degradation. if
stabil or other brand is only in the tank, the lines and carburetor are
unprotected. run the engine to circulate treated fuel throughout.

remember to fog to protect the rings, cylinder walls and valves from
rust.

editor
http://www.marineenginedigest.com

Is your position that if StaBil is added when filling tanks and then
boat is taken to winterizing site to be warmed up, that getting the
engine to normal operating temps is not sufficient to stabilize the fuel
system?

--
Skipper

No.

ed wrote:

No.

Very informative site, BTW.

--
Skipper

Good info. Thanks for the post.


On Tue, 08 Nov 2005 11:04:17 -0600, Skipper wrote:

Self-winterizing is not for everyone. I enjoy the work and the process
provides a better understanding and detailed personal inspection of the
equipment. The following method is safe, allows for winter boating, and
the cost to re-winterize is minimal.

1- Clean & wax hull thoroughly

2- Fill gas tanks, and then add Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer to tanks. Follow
directions on Sta-Bil container.

3- Lower unit service:

A- Carefully inspect lower unit and prop for any damage:

1- Most prop damage is repairable. (Take to prop shop if repair needed)

2- Cosmetic repair to skeg can be accomplished by using Grey MarineTex
($6) or Aluminox ($6), and spray cans of primer & paint from your local
boat dealer (under $10 each).

B- OEM lower unit oil change:

Use lower unit oil change kit available from your dealer. Follow
included instructions. Dave Brown has an excellent description of this
process on his website.

Remove prop if theft problem.

Every other year have dealer pull, inspect, relube, service, and apply
new seals. While you could do this, it's inexpensive insurance against
future problems and obtains a good second opinion about the health of
the drive.

3- Oil change & filter:

A- Warm engine to normal operating temperature using lower unit
earmuffs. Water flow from hose should be very low, as medium flow will
not allow engine to reach needed temperatures. Insure you have some flow
at all times. This 'flow check' can be accomplished by using the Camco
winterizing kit in pass through mode.

B- When normal engine operating temperature is indicated on your
temperature gauge, stop engine & water flow. Remove dipstick and use
manual or electric pump to extract oil into a safe container. Take extra
care to insure thin and hard dipstick pump tube reaches the bottom of
engine. Both manual & drill motor pump kits can be found at most dealers
for around $10. More expensive pump systems can easily be found, but if
patience and care are utilized, the inexpensive ones will do just as
good a job. Suggest taking old oil to service station for disposal.

C- Remove old oil filter by putting H/D plastic garbage bag over filter
and another plastic trash sack under filter and spread out to catch
drips. Removing old filter with oil filter wrench. Place old filter &
bag in a safe place out of the way. Then apply a thin coat of oil to new
filter seal, wipe filter fitting clean, and hand tighten new filter. Do
not overtighten.

D- Replace EOM engine oil using funnel (usually 5 or 6 quarts). Use
dipstick to verify fill level.

This is a good time to check tilt & trim reservoir, belts, hoses, oil
leaks, loose fittings or parts, & the overall cleanliness of the engine
compartment. If something looks suspicious, repair or replace it. Keep
that engine compartment clean.

4- Freeze protecting engine:

I use the Camco winterizing kit available from most boat supply catalogs
for about $30. The Camco kit really simplifies freeze protection of the
engine, and to my knowledge has never failed to fully protect an engine
when diligent care was taken with its usage. The Camco kit uses 5
gallons of inexpensive RV antifreeze.

The procedu

A- Pull flame arrester from carburetor. Re-warm engine to normal
operating temperature using antifreeze FILLED Camco container sitting on
swim platform or gunwale in bypass mode. Intake of container is
connected to water source and the output goes to leg earmuffs. Hose
pressure should be quite low to allow engine to reach normal operating
temperature. Continually monitor the clear tubes that come with the
Camco kit to insure water is flowing to the engine and has not been
stopped by a faulty tap. Err on the side of caution when deciding when
proper temperature has been reached, the thermostat MUST be open. When
temperature gauge indicates normal engine operating temperature and you
are convinced that the thermostat is open, turn the Camco bypass knob to
shut off water and allow antifreeze to drain to engine. Use the entire 5
Gallons. When you get down to the last gallon of antifreeze start
spraying the can of engine fogging oil into carburetor intake. Try to
keep engine RPM steady. Shut down engine when Camco container is empty.
You're engine is now freeze protected.

5- Plumbing & Air Conditioning Systems:

These must be freeze protected. The procedure varies from boat to boat
and has been fully described in posts from Dave Brown, Peggy Hall, and
others in this forum. I would defer to the experts here.

6- Battery and cold sensitive boat items. Last step in winterizing is
removal of any cold sensitive items stored on the boat and removal of
the batteries. I store batteries in a heated basement and provide an
occasional booster charge if needed.

7- Storage tips:

A- Block trailer if temperatures reach freezing.
B- Winter store with leg down.
C- Use plastic trash bag with tie to protect lower unit. Cut hole in
bottom of bag to allow water drainage.
D- Heated indoor boat storage is best during winter months. Don't rule
out non-traditional means such as farmers with large barns or unused
manufacturing facilities with adequate security protection.
E- Protect that boat against entry of pests. Seal hull openings


--
John H

"It's *not* a baby kicking, bride of mine, it's just a fetus!"

Hypocrital Liberal

On Tue, 08 Nov 2005 12:37:54 -0500, Harry Krause wrote:

Skipper wrote:
Self-winterizing is not for everyone. I enjoy the work

But you don't have a boat.

Totally unnecessary, but it does point out your purpose here.
--
John H

"It's *not* a baby kicking, bride of mine, it's just a fetus!"

Hypocrital Liberal

"Harry Krause" wrote in message
...
John H. wrote:
On Tue, 08 Nov 2005 12:37:54 -0500, Harry Krause
wrote:

Skipper wrote:
Self-winterizing is not for everyone. I enjoy the work
But you don't have a boat.

Totally unnecessary, but it does point out your purpose here.

If he doesn't have a boat, how could he "enjoy the work"? Is he
winterizing the boats of others?