This is a big problem for me. The outboard motor does this
every time it's 1st time in the water cold just off the trailer, it
"turning on the key, the
starter motor just clicks, turn the key again and it clicks again,
after about 20-30 clicks on the key to start, the starter motor starts
to spin catching the top gear to crank" sometimes I have to manually
spin the starter motor to the "catch" position then hit the key to
start, sometimes it'll just click, but the more agressive you get with
clicking juice to the starter motor by turning the key to the on
position, the more it becomes "alive" and starts to crank normally.

I've managed to get the motor to start every time but it's very
annoying to have to sit there at the boat dock (with everyone watching)

while I click, click, click, click, (take motor cover off), click,
(spin the starter motor by hand), click, click, (starter motor starts
to move), click, click, and then finally the starter motor "clicks in"
and cranks and starts, pushing the key to choke (of course).

Running the motor for a few minutes cures it totally. I can restart the
motor fine all day after getting it going.

I'm thinking now I either have a potential circuit problem to the
starter motor, perhaps a solenoid, or a bad starter motor is there any
way I can
troubleshoot this prior to taking the boat back to the marina for
another look? I do have a volt meter available.

I'd appreciate any insight on diagnosing / troubleshooting (list) if
this a circuit problem,
juice to the starter problem (need voltage numbers and how to check),
or if I have a bad starter motor (intermittently failing - how do you
check that - other than swap in a new part?)...etc. Has anyone
experienced this "cold" type of clicking behavior from the starter
motor?

wrote:
This is a big problem for me. The outboard motor does this
every time it's 1st time in the water cold just off the trailer, it
"turning on the key, the
starter motor just clicks, turn the key again and it clicks again,
after about 20-30 clicks on the key to start, the starter motor starts
to spin catching the top gear to crank" sometimes I have to manually
spin the starter motor to the "catch" position then hit the key to
start, sometimes it'll just click, but the more agressive you get with
clicking juice to the starter motor by turning the key to the on
position, the more it becomes "alive" and starts to crank normally.

I've managed to get the motor to start every time but it's very
annoying to have to sit there at the boat dock (with everyone watching)

while I click, click, click, click, (take motor cover off), click,
(spin the starter motor by hand), click, click, (starter motor starts
to move), click, click, and then finally the starter motor "clicks in"
and cranks and starts, pushing the key to choke (of course).

Running the motor for a few minutes cures it totally. I can restart the
motor fine all day after getting it going.

I'm thinking now I either have a potential circuit problem to the
starter motor, perhaps a solenoid, or a bad starter motor is there any
way I can
troubleshoot this prior to taking the boat back to the marina for
another look? I do have a volt meter available.

I'd appreciate any insight on diagnosing / troubleshooting (list) if
this a circuit problem,
juice to the starter problem (need voltage numbers and how to check),
or if I have a bad starter motor (intermittently failing - how do you
check that - other than swap in a new part?)...etc. Has anyone
experienced this "cold" type of clicking behavior from the starter
motor?


High resistance in the solenoid.

Replace it.

Rob

High resistance in the solenoid.

Replace it.

Rob

Great info and many thanks! My plan of attack (cheapest to expensive):

1) Check all electrical connections to the solenoid, charge battery,
check all connections under the transom and tighten any thing that
looks loose...etc., wd-40 (dry) the connections, if failure then 2.

2) WD-40 the starter motor shaft and pinion gear; inspect for burrs or
wear, if clean of burrs and shaft well oiled, if failure then 3.

3) take out old solenoid and check the plunger / file - make sure the
contacts are clean - replace and test, if failure then 4.

4) replace the solinoid; swap out old one with new one ($36.00usd), if
failure then 5.

5) replace with refurbished (Johnson) bosch or prestolite starter motor
(approx $160.00usd for the refurbished part/ $225usd new) , if failure
then 6.

6) throw hands up; trailer the boat to the shop, at any point this
get's fixed - see you out on the lake fishin and water skiing! I'll
update when figured out. I'll keep the rec.boats updated on the fix
(may take a couple of weeks).

Bon Voyage and off to work on the 15' Crestliner (that boat jumps out
of the water with that 100hp Johonson on the back) I go - thanks
everyone; this one is nipped in the bud!

You have it right....

-W

wrote in message

Great info and many thanks! My plan of attack (cheapest to expensive):

1) Check all electrical connections to the solenoid, charge battery,
check all connections under the transom and tighten any thing that
looks loose...etc., wd-40 (dry) the connections, if failure then 2.

2) WD-40 the starter motor shaft and pinion gear; inspect for burrs or
wear, if clean of burrs and shaft well oiled, if failure then 3.

3) take out old solenoid and check the plunger / file - make sure the
contacts are clean - replace and test, if failure then 4.

4) replace the solinoid; swap out old one with new one ($36.00usd), if
failure then 5.

5) replace with refurbished (Johnson) bosch or prestolite starter motor
(approx $160.00usd for the refurbished part/ $225usd new) , if failure
then 6.

6) throw hands up; trailer the boat to the shop, at any point this
get's fixed - see you out on the lake fishin and water skiing! I'll
update when figured out. I'll keep the rec.boats updated on the fix
(may take a couple of weeks).

Bon Voyage and off to work on the 15' Crestliner (that boat jumps out
of the water with that 100hp Johonson on the back) I go - thanks
everyone; this one is nipped in the bud!

Clams Canino wrote:
You have it right....

-W


Well I tore up the solenoid trying to figure out the plunger deal. The
back plate was riveted (4) to the bakelight casing. Well I broke three
of the Solinoid bakelight thermoset plastic casing mounts to the back
plate, swung it open, and the plunger looks good to me - there is a
cork ring around the center base and aluminum mouting base plate. In
fact there's really not much you can do to this thing under the base
cover.

I'm looking at a round silver disc about the size of a silver dollar.
The center is cut away like it's a big washer in the center is a small
yellow piece of plastic with an electrical lead runing to it. Since
I've already busted the unit - I ain't messing with that small of a
electro magnetic plunger thingy - lookin for contacts etc. Way to
intricate if you ask me. Oh well on to the part store to pick up that
new solienoid.

wrote in message
ups.com...

.. Since
I've already busted the unit - I ain't messing with that small of a
electro magnetic plunger thingy - lookin for contacts etc. Way to
intricate if you ask me. Oh well on to the part store to pick up that
new solienoid.


For your safety and for the safety of your loved ones along with innocent
bystanders, buy the OEM solenoid from a Johnson-Evinrude dealer. Your
starter solenoid is mounted in an environment with gas fumes around it, and
the factory unit is designed for marine use and for containing any spark to
avoid "blowing up" the motor should the gasoline fumes reach a critical
concentration.

Automotive or "universal" solenoids may look similar but are not wired the
same internally as yours, besides being unsafe for marine applications.

Bill Grannis
service manager