Don't worry about the alternator just yet. Do you have any test equipment?
Are all your battery connections clean and tight? If you are using wing nuts
on the battery posts, throw them away and install hex nuts instead.
"mark" wrote in message
oups.com...
I disconnected the batteries and pushed in the red circuit breaker and
then reinstalled the batteries. Still nothing. What about the
alternator diods?

I have a battery test light (green, yellow, red) yes clean and tight.
No wing nuts have hex nuts

"mark" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have a battery test light (green, yellow, red) yes clean and tight.
No wing nuts have hex nuts

1 Set battery selector switch to both
2 Clip test leads to battery. (Observe proper polarity) If lights light up
go to step 3
3 Move red lead to lug on starter solenoid that connects to the wire that
goes to the battery selector switch. If lights light up try tilt and trim.
Try to crank over engine with key (just for 1/2 second. don't let engine
start).
4 report your findings.

Hi, Tilt and trim works. nothing else. I can't reach the starter
solenoid because the red wire goes under the engine on the other side.
can't see where it goes. I tryed connecting the red wire to the
circuit breaker switch with no luck. I either have the wrong batteries
Sears 12v car batteries or I blew something when I connected to the
wrong terminals. thats my opinion. I even tryed to connect the red
lead to the alternator again no luck getting a reading. There are 3
fuses that are on top of the engine with red wires going to it. My guy
thought those fuses were blown. of course their not. this is getting
very frustrating. kill switch is on. all black leads are hooked up
the the battery. The only fuse that did blow is the bildge pump fuse
that runs directly off the battery. The radio timer fuse that also
runs directly off the battery was not blown. I replaced the fuse. I'm
going to buy a gun. first use it on my boat then on me.
Mark