On Sun, 13 Jun 2004 22:13:16 -0400, AMD Rules
wrote:

Hello,

I have a 40HP '69 Evinrude with Electric shift, pushing a 1980 16ft
Munro boat. Having just acquired this combo I am a still getting
familiar with the unique behavior it exhibits. The boat was in storage
for the past three years.

When first tried, the cylinders were misfiring yet it seemed to run
reasonably well. I changed the plugs, points, the consensers, and one
of the coils. It then ran fantastic.... until now. Yesterday
afternoon I was left stranded after the key sheared on the flywheel.
Moments before the engine stopped, it seemed to hesitate briefly then
rev up as if the prop had come out of the water. Did this twice, then
under reduced throttle it simply stopped mid-stroke. I was towed back
to safety by a friend. Lucky for me I had my cell phone. I was
paddling distance to shore, but an offshore wind on lake Huron would
have provided me with a workout to say the least.

I'm assuming that the sheared flywheel was a result of my recent
servicing of the ignition system, and improper seating of the taper. I
have since lapped both of the tapers, and appear to have a good fit.
Awaiting a replacement key.

Is the ONLY reason a flwheel key shears due to improper shaft & nut
fitment? Perhaps this is a dumb question, but I was wondering if there
could be any other reasons for the key to shear.

I'm actually happy, because my initial thought while bobbing up and down
in the waves like a piece of driftwood was that the lower end (electric
shift) had failed. A sheared key is a relatively minor nuisance.

Thoughts?

The purpose of a flywheel key is to align the crank and the flywheel,
so the magnets are in the right spot, relative to the coils, ....
nothing more! On a healthy motor, the key can be left out completely,
provided the key ways are aligned. What holds everything in place is
the taper on the shaft and the mating hole on the fly wheel.

It sounds to me like the two tapers need to be lapped, in order to get
good surface area bite. This can be done easily at home, but it takes
time & sweat. I suspect that your timing is a tad advanced, and just
highlighted a weakness. I have worked on motors that insist on
aluminum keys only. Their purpose is for timing only, not to give
bite.

Lapping paste & elbow grease,
Good Luck.

Hello,

I have a 40HP '69 Evinrude with Electric shift, pushing a 1980 16ft
Munro boat. Having just acquired this combo I am a still getting
familiar with the unique behavior it exhibits. The boat was in storage
for the past three years.

When first tried, the cylinders were misfiring yet it seemed to run
reasonably well. I changed the plugs, points, the consensers, and one
of the coils. It then ran fantastic.... until now. Yesterday
afternoon I was left stranded after the key sheared on the flywheel.
Moments before the engine stopped, it seemed to hesitate briefly then
rev up as if the prop had come out of the water. Did this twice, then
under reduced throttle it simply stopped mid-stroke. I was towed back
to safety by a friend. Lucky for me I had my cell phone. I was
paddling distance to shore, but an offshore wind on lake Huron would
have provided me with a workout to say the least.

I'm assuming that the sheared flywheel was a result of my recent
servicing of the ignition system, and improper seating of the taper. I
have since lapped both of the tapers, and appear to have a good fit.
Awaiting a replacement key.

Is the ONLY reason a flwheel key shears due to improper shaft & nut
fitment? Perhaps this is a dumb question, but I was wondering if there
could be any other reasons for the key to shear.

I'm actually happy, because my initial thought while bobbing up and down
in the waves like a piece of driftwood was that the lower end (electric
shift) had failed. A sheared key is a relatively minor nuisance.

Thoughts?

AMD Rules wrote:

Hello,

I have a 40HP '69 Evinrude with Electric shift, pushing a 1980 16ft
Munro boat. Having just acquired this combo I am a still getting
familiar with the unique behavior it exhibits. The boat was in storage
for the past three years.

When first tried, the cylinders were misfiring yet it seemed to run
reasonably well. I changed the plugs, points, the consensers, and one
of the coils. It then ran fantastic.... until now. Yesterday
afternoon I was left stranded after the key sheared on the flywheel.
Moments before the engine stopped, it seemed to hesitate briefly then
rev up as if the prop had come out of the water. Did this twice, then
under reduced throttle it simply stopped mid-stroke. I was towed back
to safety by a friend. Lucky for me I had my cell phone. I was
paddling distance to shore, but an offshore wind on lake Huron would
have provided me with a workout to say the least.

I'm assuming that the sheared flywheel was a result of my recent
servicing of the ignition system, and improper seating of the taper. I
have since lapped both of the tapers, and appear to have a good fit.
Awaiting a replacement key.

Is the ONLY reason a flwheel key shears due to improper shaft & nut
fitment? Perhaps this is a dumb question, but I was wondering if there
could be any other reasons for the key to shear.

I'm actually happy, because my initial thought while bobbing up and down
in the waves like a piece of driftwood was that the lower end (electric
shift) had failed. A sheared key is a relatively minor nuisance.

Thoughts?

Torque to specs... then retorque after an hour running.

The key could shear with a hard prop strike, too.

The 40's were not high revving engines, over revving may set up some
weird harmonics / out of balance issues.

Rob

trainfan1 wrote:

AMD Rules wrote:

Hello,

I have a 40HP '69 Evinrude with Electric shift, pushing a 1980 16ft
Munro boat. Having just acquired this combo I am a still getting
familiar with the unique behavior it exhibits. The boat was in
storage for the past three years.

When first tried, the cylinders were misfiring yet it seemed to run
reasonably well. I changed the plugs, points, the consensers, and one
of the coils. It then ran fantastic.... until now. Yesterday
afternoon I was left stranded after the key sheared on the flywheel.
Moments before the engine stopped, it seemed to hesitate briefly then
rev up as if the prop had come out of the water. Did this twice, then
under reduced throttle it simply stopped mid-stroke. I was towed back
to safety by a friend. Lucky for me I had my cell phone. I was
paddling distance to shore, but an offshore wind on lake Huron would
have provided me with a workout to say the least.

I'm assuming that the sheared flywheel was a result of my recent
servicing of the ignition system, and improper seating of the taper.
I have since lapped both of the tapers, and appear to have a good fit.
Awaiting a replacement key.

Is the ONLY reason a flwheel key shears due to improper shaft & nut
fitment? Perhaps this is a dumb question, but I was wondering if
there could be any other reasons for the key to shear.

I'm actually happy, because my initial thought while bobbing up and
down in the waves like a piece of driftwood was that the lower end
(electric shift) had failed. A sheared key is a relatively minor
nuisance.

Thoughts?


Torque to specs... then retorque after an hour running.

The key could shear with a hard prop strike, too.

The 40's were not high revving engines, over revving may set up some
weird harmonics / out of balance issues.

Rob

Whoops.... I didn't mean to imply that the prop came out of the
water...just that is 'sounded like it'. I believe it over-revved a bit
only after the key sheared. I will re-torque ater installation per your
kind advice. Thanks for the quick reply.

"AMD Rules" wrote in message
...


Whoops.... I didn't mean to imply that the prop came out of the
water...just that is 'sounded like it'. I believe it over-revved a bit
only after the key sheared. I will re-torque ater installation per your
kind advice. Thanks for the quick reply.


When reinstalling the flywheel make sure that the outer edge of the key is
parallel to the
crankshaft centerline. Also, if the key has a single mark on it, be sure to
install the key on the crankshaft with the mark facing downward.

AMD Rules wrote in message . ..

Whoops.... I didn't mean to imply that the prop came out of the
water...just that is 'sounded like it'. I believe it over-revved a bit
only after the key sheared. I will re-torque ater installation per your
kind advice. Thanks for the quick reply.

Shearing the key causes the magneto to malfunction, as the magnets
will be out of time with the breaker cam. Doubtful it would give the
motor more power, more likely it would slow it down.

Sheared key can be caused by overrevving. Wrong viscosity oil in the
lower unit can cause the electric shift to slip. Also a spun prop hub
may be suspected.

%mod%