"seeray28" wrote in message
...
I figured out how to take care of the gas tank/gauge issue if your
interested. I measured the depth of the tank with a tape measure. Without
the top portion,the tank is right at 7 inches tall, I then divided 7
inches
by 4 equalling 1.75 inches. starting at the bottom of the tank measure up
1.75 inches and make a mark with a magic marker. That is a 1/4 tank.
measure
again 1.75 inches from that mark now you have a 1/2 tank or 9 gallons left
in the tank. Measure again from the 1/2 mark and now you have 3/4 tank.
Measure again 1.75 and you have a full 18 gallons.
When this boat was first produced it came with a 18 gallon fuel tank. In
our
boats they just added that top portion of the tank to get 21 gallons. If
we
use that as a reserve of 3 gallons then we should be ok

Ahhhh! excelent dude !! This *also* explains the
dispute I had with the salesman at Olympic Boat
center too over this. On the showroom floor, the
big information board on the boat said 21 gallons,
but the salesman said that was a "misprint", and
he showed me his little Bayliner spec book that
said it was 18, and he said that info board on the
showroom floor was a misprint. You rock dude.

Also, I'm looking into the trim gague inaccuracy
situation too, and working on a dash light dimmer
situation. As soon as I come up with something
easy, and doable by the average Joe, I'll post it.
(might involve a trip to Radio Shack).

So how you liking the '05 175 so far? Also,
was it you that mentioned that ~31Mph seeet
spot? If so, I gotta tell you dude, I found it last
week, and it was unbelievable. Was crusing
around, and then all of a sudden everrthing
quieted down, and it was just I started floating
on air - the boat found "Zen", and it was the
smoothest thing I'd ever felt. Lasted a few
minutes, and once I touched the throttle I
lost it, and never seems to get it back. Amazing.
Also, (still at less than 20 hrs breakin), but one
time I did do WOT it it seemed to go up past
4,800 RPM, and near 5000, so that worried
me. So it doesn't top out at 4,800 naturally ?

Thanks







"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...

"seeray28" wrote in message
...
At a buck a bulb and 2 minutes to change, its not worth it.
JMO.

Hey did you get my post about the gas tank?

No, I must of missed it. Link ? (or repost?)

I pull the plug, but mainly because it also disconnects my electric trailer
brakes. Also makes me nervous to have the truck's electrical system
connected to wiring that's in the water (however benign it may be).


"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...
Heard from some that you should disconnect
the tailer lights before putting your trailer in the
water. I can't see why you'd do that. Are they
worried about a hot bulbs shattering when hitting
the cold water ? Is this a myth, or is this
something I should continue to do (pain in ass)

misprint my ass, take a look at this link down towards the bottom.
http://www.baylinerboats.com/Runabou...4195&year=2005

I think I had your salesmens brother at buds place, he told me that the blue
drainage lines off the engine had a valve and that all you have to do is
turn the handle at the engine and the water will drain out.

Your boatting "zen" you just got to play with the trim somemore, you will
find it. at 3200 rpm and trimmed right, this thing does float nice. I
usually trim the boat by the sound of the engine. If its sounding loud then
I trim down a little at a time till it sounds like its JUST under a load..
So far this boat has proven its worth, I finally got tired of the crappy
idle and bumped it up a little. Much better now.. I did find out though that
it does not like hard left turns at full throttle, it will bog down due to
fuel starvation. Not a big deal since you really shouldnt be turning that
hard at full speed.
The rev limiter kicks in at 4900 so dont worry too much about the rpms, just
keep an eye on the tach and you will be fine

Steve


"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...

"seeray28" wrote in message
...
I figured out how to take care of the gas tank/gauge issue if your
interested. I measured the depth of the tank with a tape measure.
Without
the top portion,the tank is right at 7 inches tall, I then divided 7
inches
by 4 equalling 1.75 inches. starting at the bottom of the tank measure
up
1.75 inches and make a mark with a magic marker. That is a 1/4 tank.
measure
again 1.75 inches from that mark now you have a 1/2 tank or 9 gallons
left
in the tank. Measure again from the 1/2 mark and now you have 3/4 tank.
Measure again 1.75 and you have a full 18 gallons.
When this boat was first produced it came with a 18 gallon fuel tank. In
our
boats they just added that top portion of the tank to get 21 gallons. If
we
use that as a reserve of 3 gallons then we should be ok

Ahhhh! excelent dude !! This *also* explains the
dispute I had with the salesman at Olympic Boat
center too over this. On the showroom floor, the
big information board on the boat said 21 gallons,
but the salesman said that was a "misprint", and
he showed me his little Bayliner spec book that
said it was 18, and he said that info board on the
showroom floor was a misprint. You rock dude.

Also, I'm looking into the trim gague inaccuracy
situation too, and working on a dash light dimmer
situation. As soon as I come up with something
easy, and doable by the average Joe, I'll post it.
(might involve a trip to Radio Shack).

So how you liking the '05 175 so far? Also,
was it you that mentioned that ~31Mph seeet
spot? If so, I gotta tell you dude, I found it last
week, and it was unbelievable. Was crusing
around, and then all of a sudden everrthing
quieted down, and it was just I started floating
on air - the boat found "Zen", and it was the
smoothest thing I'd ever felt. Lasted a few
minutes, and once I touched the throttle I
lost it, and never seems to get it back. Amazing.
Also, (still at less than 20 hrs breakin), but one
time I did do WOT it it seemed to go up past
4,800 RPM, and near 5000, so that worried
me. So it doesn't top out at 4,800 naturally ?

Thanks







"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...

"seeray28" wrote in message
...
At a buck a bulb and 2 minutes to change, its not worth it.
JMO.

Hey did you get my post about the gas tank?

No, I must of missed it. Link ? (or repost?)

"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...
Heard from some that you should disconnect
the tailer lights before putting your trailer in the
water. I can't see why you'd do that. Are they
worried about a hot bulbs shattering when hitting
the cold water ? Is this a myth, or is this
something I should continue to do (pain in ass)




My trailer has a label (from the manufacturer) with a list of trailering
steps to remember. The last comment on the label is a note that they
recommend disconnecting the trailer lights before attempting a launch. That
means I need to protect the male and female connections on the trailer and
the truck, respectively, from water. I know that I am going to back my
truck deep enough to wet the female receptors on the truck. So, who's got
the answer?

"Shortwave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 06:24:38 -0400, "Woodchuck"
wrote:

only if the lights are cheap and water gets to the bulbs. I use LED
lightning and it's not a worry.

"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...
Heard from some that you should disconnect
the tailer lights before putting your trailer in the
water. I can't see why you'd do that. Are they
worried about a hot bulbs shattering when hitting
the cold water ? Is this a myth, or is this
something I should continue to do (pain in ass)

I used to disconnect the trailer lights all the time, but when I got
sealed units, I stopped. Since then, I just dunk the trailer and not
worry about it. So far, I haven't had a bulb blow or any other kind
of failure like that on the little trailer I have.

I don't believe it's really necessary to disconnect.

TTFN,

Tom

"Bodies are for hookers and fat people."
Bender - "Futurama"

Depends on the type of lights. The bell jar type, suck more water as the
lights heat up hte air inside, and then the cold water cools the air,
allowing more water in. Blew to many lights over the years. My big boat
trailer is now LED (about $35 from Bass Pro shops). No more problems.

"seeray28" wrote in message
...
At a buck a bulb and 2 minutes to change, its not worth it.
JMO.

But you have to change them when you are tired from a day of boating, and
crawling around on the ground to do the job. And corrosion in the light
makes the job really bat at times. Buy a set of LED lights. There is a
reason all semi trucks now use LED trailer lights.

Do not back up so deep.

"Bryan" wrote in message
. ..

"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...
Heard from some that you should disconnect
the tailer lights before putting your trailer in the
water. I can't see why you'd do that. Are they
worried about a hot bulbs shattering when hitting
the cold water ? Is this a myth, or is this
something I should continue to do (pain in ass)




My trailer has a label (from the manufacturer) with a list of trailering
steps to remember. The last comment on the label is a note that they
recommend disconnecting the trailer lights before attempting a launch.
That means I need to protect the male and female connections on the
trailer and the truck, respectively, from water. I know that I am going
to back my truck deep enough to wet the female receptors on the truck.
So, who's got the answer?

"Bill McKee" wrote in message
k.net...

"seeray28" wrote in message
...
At a buck a bulb and 2 minutes to change, its not worth it.
JMO.

But you have to change them when you are tired from a day of boating, and
crawling around on the ground to do the job. And corrosion in the light
makes the job really bat at times. Buy a set of LED lights. There is a
reason all semi trucks now use LED trailer lights.

So is the idea to replace *all* of the bulbs with LED's?
(including all of the side marker lights), or just the big
ones (that would tend to get the hottest, and shattering) ?

"Stanley Barthfarkle" wrote in message
...
I pull the plug, but mainly because it also disconnects my electric
trailer
brakes.

Also makes me nervous to have the truck's electrical system
connected to wiring that's in the water (however benign it may be).

Yeah, 12 volts in water (even salt water) is not a
risk in it of itself, but yeah, I can understand that.



"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...
Heard from some that you should disconnect
the tailer lights before putting your trailer in the
water. I can't see why you'd do that. Are they
worried about a hot bulbs shattering when hitting
the cold water ? Is this a myth, or is this
something I should continue to do (pain in ass)

"Bryan" wrote in message
. ..

"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...
Heard from some that you should disconnect
the tailer lights before putting your trailer in the
water. I can't see why you'd do that. Are they
worried about a hot bulbs shattering when hitting
the cold water ? Is this a myth, or is this
something I should continue to do (pain in ass)




My trailer has a label (from the manufacturer) with a list of trailering
steps to remember. The last comment on the label is a note that they
recommend disconnecting the trailer lights before attempting a launch.
That
means I need to protect the male and female connections on the trailer and
the truck, respectively, from water. I know that I am going to back my
truck deep enough to wet the female receptors on the truck. So, who's got
the answer?

Well first off, you need to understand the risk of what we're
talking about. The water on/in the connector is not the issue,
nor is it having 12 volts in water - its the hot light bulbs hitting
the cold water and possibly shattering. Don't worry about the
connectors getting wet, it won't hurt anything. If you are
worried about corosion, spray the female (and male) parts
of the connectors with silicone spray)