that is an anchor for muddy rivers and lakes. It is the PREFERRED anchor for
muddy rivers and lakes on boats just stopped to do a little fishing.

Don't let anyone talk you into some anchor/chain/12 to 1 scope monstrosity
better suited to anchoring on a coral reef.

what you have preferred for the waters that boat used in prior, and probably
the waters you intend to use the boat in now.

I have an anchor (came with the used boat) that looks like this:
http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catal...&hvarTarget=se
arch&cmCat=SearchResults

Mine is probably 15 pounds. When I anchor in 15-20 feet of water the boat
will slowly still move away. After about 30 minutes I will have moved 15-20
yards back out into the lake.

What style of anchor do I need for a 19 foot sea ray?

--C

Im anchoring in J Percy Priest lake in tennesse, it is a muddy lake.

The people before me said they only used the anchor twice, so I would assume
they just had it for the heck of it. However, me and my family like to
anchor down for an hour to do some fishing or swimming.

I have been looking up some anchoring information and it appears that I have
been going about it all wrong and with this garbage anchor. All the other
boats that I see anchored are just dropping them over the side to the bottom
and ting it up. So that is what I have done.

I realize now that I am supposed to be giving it a bit of slack to make like
a 45 degree angle with my anchor! That danforth anchor looks pretty cool. I
have seen some like that for about $30 at bass pro so I might test one of
those out too.

There sure is alot to learn about boats. Sure sucks some money away too!

Thanks guys,
--C

"JAXAshby" wrote in message
...
that is an anchor for muddy rivers and lakes. It is the PREFERRED anchor
for
muddy rivers and lakes on boats just stopped to do a little fishing.

Don't let anyone talk you into some anchor/chain/12 to 1 scope monstrosity
better suited to anchoring on a coral reef.

what you have preferred for the waters that boat used in prior, and
probably
the waters you intend to use the boat in now.

I have an anchor (came with the used boat) that looks like this:

http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catal...3&hvarTarget=s
e
arch&cmCat=SearchResults

Mine is probably 15 pounds. When I anchor in 15-20 feet of water the
boat
will slowly still move away. After about 30 minutes I will have moved
15-20
yards back out into the lake.

What style of anchor do I need for a 19 foot sea ray?

--C

On Sat, 15 May 2004 18:02:19 -0500, "Ree-Yees"
wrote:

That danforth anchor looks pretty cool. I
have seen some like that for about $30 at bass pro so I might test one of
those out too.

======================================

Danforths make a very good all around anchor for soft or sandy
bottoms.

Danforths make a very good all around anchor for soft or sandy
bottoms.

danforths are not normally used in rivers and lakes because rivers and lakes
often have tree stumps, sunken logs and/or other things on which the danforth
points will catch and not come loose. that is why the mushroom anchor is so
popular, and why the anchor found on the boat in question has the soft points.

On 16 May 2004 13:07:28 GMT, (JAXAshby) wrote:

danforths are not normally used in rivers

===================================

Jax, I'd almosr forgotten about your river experience. Tell us once
again how you recommended to some poor schnook on this news group that
he navigate the Genesee River between the NYS Barge Canal (AKA, Erie),
and Lake Ontario.

See the link below for a good picture of the route Jax proposed:

http://www.geneseeriverrestaurant.com/images/dam.jpg

If we look at that picture under sufficient magnification we might be
able to see Jax just above the dam in his Porta Bote, about to soil
his knickers.

The kind of "anchoring" (not "__anchor__") you're describing is sometimes
called using a "lunch hook." In other words, you're not expecting heavy
conditions, you're not staying very long, and most importantly you have your
bearings under constant observation so that you can take corrective action
immediately if the anchor starts to drag.

You may be able to get away with a fairly casual setup for such a lunch
hook. For more serious anchoring, boaters know that anchors work best when
the pull on them is nearly horizontal, which is why the standard advice is
to use a scope of 1:7. If the depth is 3 metres (from the bottom to the
__bow chocks__!) then you let out 21 metres of "rode" (of whatever
material).

However, in crowded inland non-tidal anchorages with a calm forecast, 21
metres of rode gives you a swinging circle of 42 metres, so that's often not
practical. I often sleep overnight with a 4:1 rode, for example, and will
lunch at 3:1 or 2:1.

Using chain on the end of your line helps. Most consider it essential (for
more than "lunching"). It won't abrade through if it chafes on a rock, it
adds weight down near the anchor to help keep the pull closer to horizontal.
I have worried several times if my anchor was properly set in weeds, in a
light wind gusting up to 10 knots, and so snorkelled down to find the chain
not even pulled taut. I was, in fact, holding just on the weight of the
chain. (And I saw a big cruiser drag onto the rocks last year when the wind
freshened and the weight of the chain alone could no longer hold him! His
anchor obviously wasn't well set - mine was!) One rule of thumb is a length
of chain equal to your boat length.

There is some disagreement about whether the standard "7:1" is for an
all-rope rode, or whether using chain reduces it. (I think not.) But the
main thing is: lots of rode in heavy conditions. I exceeded 7:1 when a
gale-force squall line blew through one day, and didn't begrudge one
centimetre of the extra rode I let out.

Then there's the choice of type of anchor, but you can see how much more
there is to it than hardware. I've barely started...

====

Charles T. Low
- remove "UN"
www.boatdocking.com/BDPhoto.html - Photo Contest
www.boatdocking.com
www.ctlow.ca/Trojan26 - my boat

====

"Ree-Yees" wrote in message
...
Im anchoring in J Percy Priest lake in tennesse, it is a muddy lake.

The people before me said they only used the anchor twice, so I would
assume
they just had it for the heck of it. However, me and my family like to
anchor down for an hour to do some fishing or swimming.

I have been looking up some anchoring information and it appears that I
have
been going about it all wrong and with this garbage anchor. All the other
boats that I see anchored are just dropping them over the side to the
bottom
and ting it up. So that is what I have done.

I realize now that I am supposed to be giving it a bit of slack to make
like
a 45 degree angle with my anchor! That danforth anchor looks pretty cool.
I
have seen some like that for about $30 at bass pro so I might test one of
those out too.

There sure is alot to learn about boats. Sure sucks some money away too!

Thanks guys,
--C

guys, you know nuthin about whats yous speaks. the boat is on a LAKE and you
spitting back everything you ever read about anchoring in a seaway ancitipating
heavy weather. kindly knock it off. if the guy wants to read the high seas
anchoring reports, he can do it himself.

in the meantime, the guy has the PREFERRED anchor for where he has his boat.
many boaters in those waters use a 15# or 20# _mushroom_ anchor because the
mushroom is even less likely to catch junk on the lake bottom.

"Ree-Yees" wrote in message
...

I realize now that I am supposed to be giving it a bit of slack to make
like
a 45 degree angle with my anchor! That danforth anchor looks pretty cool.
I
have seen some like that for about $30 at bass pro so I might test one of
those out too.



I would be tempted to try a few feet of chain with the achor you have. The
chain will change the abgle of the "bite" on the anchor. Unless you are
looking for an anchor o hold you in place through anything!

I use a anchor simular to a danforth. I am a fair weather boaters so it
works good enough for me, although the boat will drag it some.
Greg

Ree-Yees wrote:
Im anchoring in J Percy Priest lake in tennesse, it is a muddy lake.

Then a Danforth would be the right anchor.


The people before me said they only used the anchor twice, so I would assume
they just had it for the heck of it. However, me and my family like to
anchor down for an hour to do some fishing or swimming.

In even the lightest breeze or slightest current, the river anchor you
have is likely to drag.


I have been looking up some anchoring information and it appears that I have
been going about it all wrong and with this garbage anchor.


I wouldn't call it a "garbage anchor"...it has a specific purpose. I
just wouldn't even leave the boat unattended/no one aboard with only
that anchor down.


I realize now that I am supposed to be giving it a bit of slack to make like
a 45 degree angle with my anchor!

There's a bit more to it than that. The minimum scope (length of anchor
line) should be at least 3x the water's depth...so in 15' of water,
you'd need to put out at least 45' of anchor line. In windy conditions
or in a strong current (which you might have to do if you have engine
trouble to keep from going aground till help arrives), the scope has to
be increase to as much as 7x the water's depth to make sure the anchor
holds. This "rule" applies regardless of the size of the boat,
btw...boat size/weight only matters when selecting the right size/weight
anchor...there are charts in most of the marine catalogs that show the
type and size anchor needed.

No one has mentioned anchor line... Do not use polypropylene "ski rope"
as an anchor line. Anchor line should be 1/2" 3-strand nylon, at least
100'...150' would be even better. It should be attached to the anchor
using a thimble and a shackle that swivles, not just tied to it with
knot. I'd also put 4-5' of heavy anchor chain between the anchor and the
line, to help weight the anchor down...anchors can only hold when
they're lying flat--which is the reason for 3-7 x the water's depth.

There sure is alot to learn about boats.

Yep...and we've even barely even scratched the surface on what you need
to know about anchoring. I strongly recommend that you take a CC Aux or
US Power Squadron boating safety class. 'Cuz even a lake can be a very
dangerous place if you don't know what you're doing.

"JAXAshby" wrote in message
that is an anchor for muddy rivers and lakes. It is the PREFERRED anchor
for
muddy rivers and lakes on boats just stopped to do a little fishing.

I disagree, Jax...and I was ON an inland lake for 20+ years. I had a 10
lb river anchor that kept through several boats from 24' to 36'...I
mostly used it off the stern to keep it from swinging when anchored just
off a beach...I wouldn't use one as my only anchor while everyone is the
water swimming, only while someone is aboard.

Don't let anyone talk you into some anchor/chain/12 to 1 scope monstrosity
better suited to anchoring on a coral reef.

Oooh...you're gonna draw fire with that choice of words!

What he needs is the right anchor and line for his boat and conditions.
It's not whether he's in the ocean or a lake that determine that...it's
the size/weight of the boat and the type of bottom--sand, mud, rock.


--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://69.20.93.241/store/customer/p...40&cat=&page=1

On Sun, 16 May 2004 17:19:56 GMT, Peggie Hall
wrote:

The minimum scope (length of anchor
line) should be at least 3x the water's depth...so in 15' of water,
you'd need to put out at least 45' of anchor line.

Measure the "depth" from where the anchor rode
meets the boat. If your chock or cleat is 3'
above the water, the effective depth would be
18' in 15' of true depth. This makes much more
difference in shallow water than in deep water.

And as Peggie says, 3x is the minimum -- good
weather, little wind or current, and someone
keeping an eye on things at all times. If you
want to relax or leave the boat for a while,
you need more scope than that.