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#1
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Wiring Confusion... Help!
Thanks Gary!
What you described makes perfect sense. I printed out your post and took it out to the boat for comparison. The only difference I found is that the wire from my alternator is not fused prior to the ammeter. Should I put one in? If so, what amperage? I'll be hooking up my fuse panel the same way. I'll run the ignition through it's own fuse on the panel. How do you pick the proper fuse for such a setup? What type of draw does the ignition have - solenoid + gauges + ? Thanks again - Doug "Gary Warner" wrote in message ... Here's a link to my wiring diagram: http://tinyurl.com/yqud3 |
#2
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Wiring Confusion... Help!
"Douglas St. Clair" wrote in message ... Thanks Gary! What you described makes perfect sense. I printed out your post and took it out to the boat for comparison. The only difference I found is that the wire from my alternator is not fused prior to the ammeter. Should I put one in? If so, what amperage? I don't think a fuse is required there. I just decided to do it on the "what can it hurt" theory. I really don't know what size fuse to use there. That's a question I have myself. |
#3
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Wiring Confusion... Help!
Gary Warner wrote:
"Douglas St. Clair" wrote in message ... Thanks Gary! What you described makes perfect sense. I printed out your post and took it out to the boat for comparison. The only difference I found is that the wire from my alternator is not fused prior to the ammeter. Should I put one in? If so, what amperage? I don't think a fuse is required there. I just decided to do it on the "what can it hurt" theory. I really don't know what size fuse to use there. That's a question I have myself. Normally that is the reason for a "fuselink" from the battery positive post. It's not the amps that are put out from the alternator that cause the damage of a short, it's the amperage potental of the battery that needs disconnected quickly by blowing the fuselink open at the battery. -- __________m___~¿Ô___m____________________________ |
#4
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Wiring Confusion... Help!
"____m___~¿Ô___m____" wrote in message news:%TEfc.33606 Normally that is the reason for a "fuselink" from the battery positive post. It's not the amps that are put out from the alternator that cause the damage of a short, it's the amperage potental of the battery that needs disconnected quickly by blowing the fuselink open at the battery. I don't understand what you mean by amperage potential of the battery. Do you mean the power is it capable of delivering TO the fuse panel if there was ever some big draw there (like a short) ?? |
#5
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Wiring Confusion... Help!
Gary Warner wrote:
"____m___~¿Ô___m____" wrote in message news:%TEfc.33606 Normally that is the reason for a "fuselink" from the battery positive post. It's not the amps that are put out from the alternator that cause the damage of a short, it's the amperage potental of the battery that needs disconnected quickly by blowing the fuselink open at the battery. I don't understand what you mean by amperage potential of the battery. Do you mean the power is it capable of delivering TO the fuse panel if there was ever some big draw there (like a short) ?? That is correct. The battery stores more amps. -- __________m___~¿Ô___m____________________________ |
#6
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Wiring Confusion... Help!
"Gary Warner" wrote in message ... The only difference I found is that the wire from my alternator is not fused prior to the ammeter. Should I put one in? If so, what amperage? In general, the fuse/circuit breaker should be sized appropriately to protect the wiring, not any device on the circuit. The wire should be sized so that it can carry the maximum output of the alternator with a comfortable margin. The fuse should be sized so that the fuse blows if the current should exceed the rating of the wire. You can do a web search to find tables that provide wire size vs. current capacity. I don't think a fuse is required there. I just decided to do it on the "what can it hurt" theory. Well, one thing that it can hurt is the alternator! Fuses can fatigue and fail without their ratings ever being exceeded. If the fuse opens while the alternator is running at full output and leaves the alternator disconnected from any load there is a high probability that the resulting voltage spike will destroy the diodes in the alternator. Rod |
#7
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Wiring Confusion... Help!
"Rod McInnis" wrote in message ... . The fuse should be sized so that the fuse blows if the current should exceed the rating of the wire. You can do a web search to find tables that provide wire size vs. current capacity. Now that makes sense. Thanks. |
#8
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Wiring Confusion... Help!
On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 21:38:56 GMT, "Douglas St. Clair"
wrote: What you described makes perfect sense. I printed out your post and took it out to the boat for comparison. The only difference I found is that the wire from my alternator is not fused prior to the ammeter. Should I put one in? If so, what amperage? =================================== The wire from the alternator should definitely be fused as close to the alternator as possible, preferably within a foot or two. A fuse rating equal to alternator maximum output plus 15 or 20% would be about right. |
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