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Old February 8th 04, 11:34 PM
Scott B. Hogle
 
Posts: n/a
Default Suggestions for replacing 5.7 V-8 Cracked Block

As the subject line states, I'm interested in some suggestions for replacing
the cracked 5.7 liter V-8 block in my 1997 Bayliner Capri.

I failed to take the precaution of removing the block drain plugs before a
cold-snap hit the Seattle area - my fault = my repair bill.

I want to minimize the total expense, and I'm not opposed to using used or
re-man parts.

Could I just buy a block and re-use the crankshaft, camshaft, pistions and
bearings?

Would it be smarter just to buy a re-man shortblock and re-use the existing
cylinder heads?

Do I need to get a "Mercruiser" shortblock, or would any GM 5.7 shortblock
work?

Final question, how much should I expect to pay to have a boat repair
facility "Remove and Reinstall" the engine.

Thanks in advance for any ideas.

Have a great week.


SBH



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Old February 9th 04, 01:11 AM
JR North
 
Posts: n/a
Default Suggestions for replacing 5.7 V-8 Cracked Block

See..if you had sprung for FWC, this would be a non-issue.
Now you get to pay 10X the cost of FWC. My condolences.
JR

"Scott B. Hogle" wrote:

As the subject line states, I'm interested in some suggestions for replacing
the cracked 5.7 liter V-8 block in my 1997 Bayliner Capri.

I failed to take the precaution of removing the block drain plugs before a
cold-snap hit the Seattle area - my fault = my repair bill.

I want to minimize the total expense, and I'm not opposed to using used or
re-man parts.

Could I just buy a block and re-use the crankshaft, camshaft, pistions and
bearings?

Would it be smarter just to buy a re-man shortblock and re-use the existing
cylinder heads?

Do I need to get a "Mercruiser" shortblock, or would any GM 5.7 shortblock
work?

Final question, how much should I expect to pay to have a boat repair
facility "Remove and Reinstall" the engine.

Thanks in advance for any ideas.

Have a great week.

SBH

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Old February 9th 04, 08:31 PM
Rod McInnis
 
Posts: n/a
Default Suggestions for replacing 5.7 V-8 Cracked Block


"Scott B. Hogle" wrote in message
...


Could I just buy a block and re-use the crankshaft, camshaft, pistions and
bearings?


I would certainly NOT consider reusing bearings! As for the pistons, you
will have to make sure that the cylinder bore matches your old pistons. If
you buy a late model block from a junkyard you will probably be okay, but
there is a good chance that a remanufactured block has been bored out to
clean up the cylinder walls.


Would it be smarter just to buy a re-man shortblock and re-use the

existing
cylinder heads?


I would not reuse 7 year old cylinder heads without at least resurfacing the
valve seats and changing out the stem seals. You need to be careful to make
sure that the heads are an exact match. It is not uncommon for the same
basic engine to be built from two different factories that have slightly
different (and incompatible) components.


Do I need to get a "Mercruiser" shortblock, or would any GM 5.7 shortblock
work?


I am sure that this question will create considerable controversy. There
are those that claim that the "freeze plugs" (even the name of these things
generates controversy) are different on a "marine" engine. The concern is
that the standard steel plugs will rust out too fast in a raw water cooled
engine, especially if it ever sees salt water.


Final question, how much should I expect to pay to have a boat repair
facility "Remove and Reinstall" the engine.


Your best bet would be to call some shops in your area and ask them! I would
expect to pay $75 to $100 an hour per person working. Would you be doing
this just because you don't have a crane that will lift the engine out of
the boat? Two suggestions:

1) have everthing disconnected and the bolts loose so that you simply have
to back the trailer under their hoist, lift it up, pull the trailer out,
back the truck in, then lower down. This wouldn't need to be done at a boat
shop, any shop with an overhead hoist could help you out.

2) Build your own hoist. You can buy a chain hoist for pretty cheap (or
rent one), and then an A-Frame with 4x4s should be strong enough. I would
expect $100 or so would do it. You might also try calling local rental
yards to see if they might have something. I know you can rent standard
engine hoists, but it might not have the height or reach you need to get the
engine out of a boat.


Thanks in advance for any ideas.


Before you do anything..... Check the rotation of the engine! It is
possible that your engine rotates the opposite direction of the standard
automobile engine, which would certainly change your shortblock decision.

Rod McInnis


  #4   Report Post  
Old February 10th 04, 12:10 AM
Scott B. Hogle
 
Posts: n/a
Default Suggestions for replacing 5.7 V-8 Cracked Block

Rod:

Thanks for the reply - great response.

SBH

"Rod McInnis" wrote in message
...

"Scott B. Hogle" wrote in message
...


Could I just buy a block and re-use the crankshaft, camshaft, pistions

and
bearings?


I would certainly NOT consider reusing bearings! As for the pistons, you
will have to make sure that the cylinder bore matches your old pistons.

If
you buy a late model block from a junkyard you will probably be okay, but
there is a good chance that a remanufactured block has been bored out to
clean up the cylinder walls.


Would it be smarter just to buy a re-man shortblock and re-use the

existing
cylinder heads?


I would not reuse 7 year old cylinder heads without at least resurfacing

the
valve seats and changing out the stem seals. You need to be careful to

make
sure that the heads are an exact match. It is not uncommon for the same
basic engine to be built from two different factories that have slightly
different (and incompatible) components.


Do I need to get a "Mercruiser" shortblock, or would any GM 5.7

shortblock
work?


I am sure that this question will create considerable controversy. There
are those that claim that the "freeze plugs" (even the name of these

things
generates controversy) are different on a "marine" engine. The concern is
that the standard steel plugs will rust out too fast in a raw water cooled
engine, especially if it ever sees salt water.


Final question, how much should I expect to pay to have a boat repair
facility "Remove and Reinstall" the engine.


Your best bet would be to call some shops in your area and ask them! I

would
expect to pay $75 to $100 an hour per person working. Would you be doing
this just because you don't have a crane that will lift the engine out of
the boat? Two suggestions:

1) have everthing disconnected and the bolts loose so that you simply have
to back the trailer under their hoist, lift it up, pull the trailer out,
back the truck in, then lower down. This wouldn't need to be done at a

boat
shop, any shop with an overhead hoist could help you out.

2) Build your own hoist. You can buy a chain hoist for pretty cheap (or
rent one), and then an A-Frame with 4x4s should be strong enough. I would
expect $100 or so would do it. You might also try calling local rental
yards to see if they might have something. I know you can rent standard
engine hoists, but it might not have the height or reach you need to get

the
engine out of a boat.


Thanks in advance for any ideas.


Before you do anything..... Check the rotation of the engine! It is
possible that your engine rotates the opposite direction of the standard
automobile engine, which would certainly change your shortblock decision.

Rod McInnis





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  #5   Report Post  
Old February 10th 04, 01:42 AM
Lawrence James
 
Posts: n/a
Default Suggestions for replacing 5.7 V-8 Cracked Block

Counter rotation engines have not been built for a while and certainly would
not be in a late model bayliner single engine boat.

"Rod McInnis" wrote in message
...

"Scott B. Hogle" wrote in message
...


Could I just buy a block and re-use the crankshaft, camshaft, pistions

and
bearings?


I would certainly NOT consider reusing bearings! As for the pistons, you
will have to make sure that the cylinder bore matches your old pistons.

If
you buy a late model block from a junkyard you will probably be okay, but
there is a good chance that a remanufactured block has been bored out to
clean up the cylinder walls.


Would it be smarter just to buy a re-man shortblock and re-use the

existing
cylinder heads?


I would not reuse 7 year old cylinder heads without at least resurfacing

the
valve seats and changing out the stem seals. You need to be careful to

make
sure that the heads are an exact match. It is not uncommon for the same
basic engine to be built from two different factories that have slightly
different (and incompatible) components.


Do I need to get a "Mercruiser" shortblock, or would any GM 5.7

shortblock
work?


I am sure that this question will create considerable controversy. There
are those that claim that the "freeze plugs" (even the name of these

things
generates controversy) are different on a "marine" engine. The concern is
that the standard steel plugs will rust out too fast in a raw water cooled
engine, especially if it ever sees salt water.


Final question, how much should I expect to pay to have a boat repair
facility "Remove and Reinstall" the engine.


Your best bet would be to call some shops in your area and ask them! I

would
expect to pay $75 to $100 an hour per person working. Would you be doing
this just because you don't have a crane that will lift the engine out of
the boat? Two suggestions:

1) have everthing disconnected and the bolts loose so that you simply have
to back the trailer under their hoist, lift it up, pull the trailer out,
back the truck in, then lower down. This wouldn't need to be done at a

boat
shop, any shop with an overhead hoist could help you out.

2) Build your own hoist. You can buy a chain hoist for pretty cheap (or
rent one), and then an A-Frame with 4x4s should be strong enough. I would
expect $100 or so would do it. You might also try calling local rental
yards to see if they might have something. I know you can rent standard
engine hoists, but it might not have the height or reach you need to get

the
engine out of a boat.


Thanks in advance for any ideas.


Before you do anything..... Check the rotation of the engine! It is
possible that your engine rotates the opposite direction of the standard
automobile engine, which would certainly change your shortblock decision.

Rod McInnis






  #6   Report Post  
Old February 10th 04, 12:27 PM
habbi
 
Posts: n/a
Default Suggestions for replacing 5.7 V-8 Cracked Block

I have heard that marine blocks have brass freeze plugs were as automotive
simply have steel ones, in raw water cooled especially sal****er this would
be bad.
"Scott B. Hogle" wrote in message
...
As the subject line states, I'm interested in some suggestions for

replacing
the cracked 5.7 liter V-8 block in my 1997 Bayliner Capri.

I failed to take the precaution of removing the block drain plugs before a
cold-snap hit the Seattle area - my fault = my repair bill.

I want to minimize the total expense, and I'm not opposed to using used or
re-man parts.

Could I just buy a block and re-use the crankshaft, camshaft, pistions and
bearings?

Would it be smarter just to buy a re-man shortblock and re-use the

existing
cylinder heads?

Do I need to get a "Mercruiser" shortblock, or would any GM 5.7 shortblock
work?

Final question, how much should I expect to pay to have a boat repair
facility "Remove and Reinstall" the engine.

Thanks in advance for any ideas.

Have a great week.


SBH




__________________________________________________ __________________________
___
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  #7   Report Post  
Old February 10th 04, 11:52 PM
Rod McInnis
 
Posts: n/a
Default Suggestions for replacing 5.7 V-8 Cracked Block


"Lawrence James" wrote in message
hlink.net...
Counter rotation engines have not been built for a while and certainly

would
not be in a late model bayliner single engine boat.



Define "a while".

Counter rotating engines are standard in just about every twin engine
inboard boat I have seen.

I have owned two different tournament ski boats that used counter rotating
engines.

I agree that it would be unusual in an I/O configuration, but it only takes
a minute to check and can save a tremendous amount of headache and expense
if he happens to have one.

Rod


  #8   Report Post  
Old February 11th 04, 01:54 AM
Lawrence James
 
Posts: n/a
Default Suggestions for replacing 5.7 V-8 Cracked Block

Read his post again. He has a 1997 v8 mercruiser i/o. "A while" is well
before 1997. Merc uses a counter rotating drive instead of a counter
rotating engine in dual i/o situations. He does not have a reverse rotation
engine.

What was the brand and year of manufacture for your ski boats?

"Rod McInnis" wrote in message
...

"Lawrence James" wrote in message
hlink.net...
Counter rotation engines have not been built for a while and certainly

would
not be in a late model bayliner single engine boat.



Define "a while".

Counter rotating engines are standard in just about every twin engine
inboard boat I have seen.

I have owned two different tournament ski boats that used counter rotating
engines.

I agree that it would be unusual in an I/O configuration, but it only

takes
a minute to check and can save a tremendous amount of headache and expense
if he happens to have one.

Rod




  #9   Report Post  
Old February 11th 04, 07:10 AM
Wayne.B
 
Posts: n/a
Default Suggestions for replacing 5.7 V-8 Cracked Block

On Wed, 11 Feb 2004 05:35:54 GMT, WaIIy
wrote:
Counter rotating engines are standard in just about every twin engine
inboard boat I have seen.


================================================== =

I don't know the exact year that counter rotating engines were no
longer being produced but I believe it has been at least ten years or
so.

All newer boats achieve counter rotation in the transmission.

  #10   Report Post  
Old February 11th 04, 05:07 PM
John
 
Posts: n/a
Default Suggestions for replacing 5.7 V-8 Cracked Block

"Scott B. Hogle" wrote in message ...
As the subject line states, I'm interested in some suggestions for replacing
the cracked 5.7 liter V-8 block in my 1997 Bayliner Capri.

I failed to take the precaution of removing the block drain plugs before a
cold-snap hit the Seattle area - my fault = my repair bill.

I want to minimize the total expense, and I'm not opposed to using used or
re-man parts.

Could I just buy a block and re-use the crankshaft, camshaft, pistions and
bearings?

Would it be smarter just to buy a re-man shortblock and re-use the existing
cylinder heads?

Do I need to get a "Mercruiser" shortblock, or would any GM 5.7 shortblock
work?

Final question, how much should I expect to pay to have a boat repair
facility "Remove and Reinstall" the engine.

Thanks in advance for any ideas.

Have a great week.


SBH

__________________________________________________ _____________________________

Posted Via Uncensored-News.Com - Accounts Starting At $6.95 - http://www.uncensored-news.com
The Worlds Uncensored News Source



Have you looked at your insurance policy? You might be covered. It's worth a look.


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