If you have a need to fuse, and you certainly should
on a permanent installation, use an automotive fuse link (more reliable
than a mechanical breaker especially in a wet boat) at the battery.

Bingo.

"Lloyd Sumpter" wrote in message ...
On Wed, 09 Jul 2003 11:28:05 +0000, basskisser wrote:

"n0sPaM" wrote in message ble.rogers.com...
I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing comes
with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many Amp
do I need?

The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to the
battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will the
deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit?

N.S.

My particular foot controlled 36 lb thrust MinnKota did not have a
fuse inline when I bought it used. BUT, on advice from several people,
I added a 20 amp inline fuse. I'm glad I did. The cables are long,
going from back of boat to front, and I've blown the fuse twice in
three years. Better the fuse than a fire.

A 36-lb thrust Minn Kota draws over 30A at full load. Chances are, that's
what's blowing your fuse.

The large wires (4ga?) used can withstand about 100A or so (sorry, too
lazy to look it up...), so you don't need protection at 20. But I suppose
the motor itself, or the control cct, might short and catch fire.
Fortunately, the traces in the control cct would probably act as "fuses"
and melt before any real damage was done.

If you want protection, I'd say about a 50A fuse or cct breaker would do
the job.

Lloyd Sumpter, Protection and Control Design, BC Hydro.

wonder why the literature that came with the trolling motor specify a
20A fuse? I'll look into that.

Basskisser,

It might be protecting the electronic speed controller and not the total
load. Its hard to believe that the stall current of a trolling motor
wouldn't blow a 20 amp fuse.

Ron

prob silicone filled automotive IDC connector

"Pmitham" wrote in message
...
Doug,

What is an "oil filled crimp" I've been around marine electrical systems
a
long time and never heard of these. Where canI find them?

Pierre
"Doug Kanter" wrote in message
...
"n0sPaM" wrote in message
news

Why is high drain don't get fused? I read the Mini Kota manual, it
told
me
clearly to clamp the +ve and -ve to the battery, that's it. I can't
find
any
information on fuse from the manual. If it doesn't need one, I don't
want
to spend time to do it....

N.S.


Maybe the manufacturer figures that a motor like that will always have
its
wires visible, or, in other words, not enclosed in a bilge where
potentially
explosive fumes will build up. So, if the wires burn through their
insulation for some unforeseen reason, it won't be a hazard. Maybe. But,
if
the wires *did* burn for some reason, and they happened to be laying
next
to
a life vest....

Meanwhile, you could find an in-line fuse holder and probably do the job
for
under $25, even if you went bonkers and bought oil-filled crimps and a
brand
new crimp tool. Sounds like pretty cheap insurance to me. It'll take
less
time than filling out all the insurance papers for your fried boat.

Maybe the manufacturer figures that a motor like that will always have
its
wires visible, or, in other words, not enclosed in a bilge where
potentially
explosive fumes will build up. So, if the wires burn through their
insulation for some unforeseen reason, it won't be a hazard. Maybe. But,
if
the wires *did* burn for some reason, and they happened to be laying
next
to
a life vest....

Meanwhile, you could find an in-line fuse holder and probably do the job
for
under $25, even if you went bonkers and bought oil-filled crimps and a
brand
new crimp tool. Sounds like pretty cheap insurance to me. It'll take
less
time than filling out all the insurance papers for your fried boat.

It just so happens that I bought a Minn Kota on sale at Canadian Tire today
(28 lb thrust, for a 14' bowrider) and the leads aren't long enough to go to
the battery. The cable on the motor ends in spade lugs, and the booklet
says to use 6 gauge wire for the extension.

What I was going to use was an old battery jumper cable that will give me
the length I need, and terminate it in a nice lug to go on the battery
terminal. On the motor's cable, short of cutting the spade lugs off, can
anyone think of a simple screw type connector so that I can disconnect it
when I want to?

Plus, any sites or names of Toronto-area stores that carry 12v marine
accessories would be handy.

Thanks for any advice!

--
"Stay calm. Be brave. Wait for the signs."

regards,

Frank Johansen
Aurora, Ontario

Great ideas, Frank. That T connector would do what I want. What is the
name of it?

--
"Stay calm. Be brave. Wait for the signs."

Frank Johansen
Aurora, Ontario

"Frank Ciuca" a écrit dans le message de
...

Speaking of fuses, let me tell you I was not able to find something big
enough. I live in Windsor, so I always shop in the detroit area. Well,
anyway, I bought a 36 lb thrust minn kota, which draws 36 amps. Well,
good luck trying to find a fuse holder that big, short of those
expensive circuit breakers you see at boat places. None of the boat
places or the auto places (autozone, canadian tire, murrays) carries
fuses that high in amperage. Radio shack did carry some 60 amps, but
nothing those to be used with a bread board or a similar electric setup,
not on a boat.

As for the trolling motor connecting to the battery. Couple of options,
one time i cut the spade lugs off and used those inline crimp connectors
to hook it to the longer 6 gage wire to go to the battery, then smeared
that liquid electric tape all over my crimp connection. On another
boat, we setup a cheap "disconnect" box in the back of the boat, on the
plywood. At a boat place in Detroit I found cheap insulated studs
(imagine a T, where the horizontal bar is made of plastic with a hole
running through on each side for fasteners, and the center of the T, a
threaded rod, for your connections), mounted those to the plywood at the
back of the boat and used that to connect the battery, trolling motor,
as well as the lights.



Buck Frobisher wrote:
Maybe the manufacturer figures that a motor like that will always have

its

wires visible, or, in other words, not enclosed in a bilge where

potentially

explosive fumes will build up. So, if the wires burn through their
insulation for some unforeseen reason, it won't be a hazard. Maybe.
But,

if

the wires *did* burn for some reason, and they happened to be laying

next

to

a life vest....

Meanwhile, you could find an in-line fuse holder and probably do the
job

for

under $25, even if you went bonkers and bought oil-filled crimps and a

brand

new crimp tool. Sounds like pretty cheap insurance to me. It'll take

less

time than filling out all the insurance papers for your fried boat.


It just so happens that I bought a Minn Kota on sale at Canadian Tire
today
(28 lb thrust, for a 14' bowrider) and the leads aren't long enough to
go to
the battery. The cable on the motor ends in spade lugs, and the booklet
says to use 6 gauge wire for the extension.

What I was going to use was an old battery jumper cable that will give
me
the length I need, and terminate it in a nice lug to go on the battery
terminal. On the motor's cable, short of cutting the spade lugs off,
can
anyone think of a simple screw type connector so that I can disconnect
it
when I want to?

Plus, any sites or names of Toronto-area stores that carry 12v marine
accessories would be handy.

Thanks for any advice!

I don't think you need a fuse for your trolling motor. It would
be essentially a resistor in series with your battery, and will
waste power. If you wind up rowing the last 100 yards or so to
get home, blame the fuse with confidence.

If you absolutely must have a 32 amp fuse, just wire up a 20, a
10 and a 2 amp fuse all in parallel. It'll work like the hard to
find value and you can use a cheaper muktifuse fuse holder strip.
Use all the same types, ie fast blow. Voltage shouldn't matter,
12 volt rating or up is OK.

After it blows, you will want a spare set, or a jumper.

I tested a combination of a 10 and a 5 to win a 10 dollar bet, 35
years ago. None of the other techs in the section could believe
it. A current limited power supply sat there at 15 amps for half
an hour, and when overloaded, both fuses blew simultaneously
after about 5 minutes at somewhere around 17 or 18 amps.


Fuses get a little warm at full load.

Terry K

Dean wrote:

On Mon, 28 Jul 2003 22:43:03 -0400, Frank Ciuca
wrote:

Well,
good luck trying to find a fuse holder that big, short of those
expensive circuit breakers you see at boat places.

Go to a car audio place. They'd be happy to hook you up with a 50-100
amp inline fuse...

-Dean
--
http://ripperd2.dhs.org

--
Terry K - My email address is MY PROPERTY, and is protected by
copyright legislation. Permission to reproduce it is
specifically denied for mass mailing and unrequested
solicitations. Reproduction or conveyance for any unauthorised
purpose is THEFT and PLAGIARISM. Abuse is Invasion of privacy
and harassment. Abusers may be prosecuted. -This notice footer
released to public domain. Spamspoof salad by spamchock -
SofDevCo

Fuses are not resistors. They are wire that melts at a certain
temperature, thus a certain amperage at standard ambient temperature.
In 40 years in electronics I have never seen a case where a fuse was
considered anything but a wire. If a fuse or breaker gets warm so will
the wire.

Ron

P.S. You don't fuse a 32 amp load with a 32 amp fuse, unless you like
replacing fuses frequently. You fuse at the battery to protect in case
of catostropic failure, such as the cables shorting out. That is why
auto fuse links at the battery are rated at hundreds of amps, so you can
pull a full load of say 50 amps and blow the fuse link if a cable short
tries to pull thousands of amps.

Ron

On Tue, 29 Jul 2003 20:25:34 -0400, "Greg Moore"
wrote:

A resistor?
In other words the world could save a ton of coin but just putting a couple
of hundred fuses in various locations on their circuit boards in place of
carbon or wire wound resistors??

Come on Terry, if a fuse acts as a resistor it is either grossly under sized
(where of course it would blow) or the connections were made in a brutally
poor fashion.

When anything acts as a resistor, that is causes a voltage drop across it,
it produces heat, if the fuse is not properly installed, or the holder too
small for the amp rating, then that portion will get hot. If the fuse
itself got hot, it will blow, this is what it is intended to do. When it is
sized to run properly, it doesn't get hot, it just waits until there is a
gross overload in the system then fries..

Greg Moore

Sorry to disagree, Greg, but every component in an electrical circuit
causes resistance, wire included. A fuse is *absolutely* a resistor,
with a predetermined point of resistance, designed to "blow"
at a specified current flow. A fuse will "get warm" at currents
approaching it's rating.

noah

"Terry Spragg" wrote in message
...
I don't think you need a fuse for your trolling motor. It would
be essentially a resistor in series with your battery, and will
waste power. If you wind up rowing the last 100 yards or so to
get home, blame the fuse with confidence.

If you absolutely must have a 32 amp fuse, just wire up a 20, a
10 and a 2 amp fuse all in parallel. It'll work like the hard to
find value and you can use a cheaper muktifuse fuse holder strip.
Use all the same types, ie fast blow. Voltage shouldn't matter,
12 volt rating or up is OK.

After it blows, you will want a spare set, or a jumper.

I tested a combination of a 10 and a 5 to win a 10 dollar bet, 35
years ago. None of the other techs in the section could believe
it. A current limited power supply sat there at 15 amps for half
an hour, and when overloaded, both fuses blew simultaneously
after about 5 minutes at somewhere around 17 or 18 amps.


Fuses get a little warm at full load.

Terry K

Dean wrote:

On Mon, 28 Jul 2003 22:43:03 -0400, Frank Ciuca
wrote:

Well,
good luck trying to find a fuse holder that big, short of those
expensive circuit breakers you see at boat places.

Go to a car audio place. They'd be happy to hook you up with a 50-100
amp inline fuse...

-Dean
--
http://ripperd2.dhs.org

--
Terry K - My email address is MY PROPERTY, and is protected by
copyright legislation. Permission to reproduce it is
specifically denied for mass mailing and unrequested
solicitations. Reproduction or conveyance for any unauthorised
purpose is THEFT and PLAGIARISM. Abuse is Invasion of privacy
and harassment. Abusers may be prosecuted. -This notice footer
released to public domain. Spamspoof salad by spamchock -
SofDevCo




Courtesy of Lee Yeaton,
See the boats of rec.boats
www.TheBayGuide.com/rec.boats