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Terry Spragg
 
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Default Trolling motor = need fuse?

Dean wrote:

On Tue, 29 Jul 2003 18:36:30 GMT, Terry Spragg
wrote:

I don't think you need a fuse for your trolling motor. It would
be essentially a resistor in series with your battery, and will
waste power. If you wind up rowing the last 100 yards or so to
get home, blame the fuse with confidence.


The fuse is NOT NOT NOT for the trolling motor.


As I implied, see above.

The fuse is to save
the battery, and the boat. You have the fuse in case the power wire
chafes on the boat enough to rub through, thereby creating a short.
The fuse is for this reason.... That is why it usually is rated much
higher than the normal currents you expect to see, to reduce the
resistance to something that won't affect normal operation.


So, pick at a loosely used term, see if I care.

The 'trolling motor fuse' should be at the battery end of the
circuit, if anywhere, and would naturally be to protect the wire,
a point I feel is not appreciated by you, or the original
positor, who mentioned something about catching weeds or the
bottom while asleep, and damaging the motor. The motor is
internally protected against fire, trust me. Batteries contain
internal fusible parts. No external fuse would ever be used to
protect a battery by any informed person.

So, if you are not leaving the troller and battery in the boat,
and / or you inspect the wires once in a while, and respect the
wires, and don't throw your ice skates on the wires, or hack off
fishes' heads using the hull and wire as an anvil, or pile rocks
on the wires, why would you need such wasteful overprotection?

Would you fuse every inch of wire? The wire will fail near where
the spade terminals or alligator clips are crimped on at the thin
metal part, anyway, unless you really tried to set up some
insurance scam. Insurance companies suck the life out of paranoid
cowards all the time. Why volunteer?

There comes a point where one might decide it is better not to
soak one's self with gasoline than it is to wear a 20 pound dry
chemical extinguisher, thermally operated, monitored by Brinks 24
/ 7, with a flack jacket under in case it gets hit by a
meteorite, no? One would be better off to pay the fire department
to follow you around.

It's like wearing a parachute while using stilts in a dirt mine,
silly and pointless.

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  #22   Report Post  
Peter Bennett
 
Posts: n/a
Default Trolling motor = need fuse?

On Tue, 29 Jul 2003 00:24:28 -0400, "Buck Frobisher"
wrote:

--
"Stay calm. Be brave. Wait for the signs."

Frank Johansen
Aurora, Ontario

"Frank Ciuca" a écrit dans le message de
...

Speaking of fuses, let me tell you I was not able to find something big
enough. I live in Windsor, so I always shop in the detroit area. Well,
anyway, I bought a 36 lb thrust minn kota, which draws 36 amps. Well,
good luck trying to find a fuse holder that big, short of those
expensive circuit breakers you see at boat places. None of the boat
places or the auto places (autozone, canadian tire, murrays) carries
fuses that high in amperage. Radio shack did carry some 60 amps, but
nothing those to be used with a bread board or a similar electric setup,
not on a boat.


Blue Sea Systems sells high-amperage fuses - up to 400 amps, or more.
Of course, they don't fit the 1/4" x 1-1/4" fuseholders....


As for the trolling motor connecting to the battery. Couple of options,
one time i cut the spade lugs off and used those inline crimp connectors
to hook it to the longer 6 gage wire to go to the battery, then smeared
that liquid electric tape all over my crimp connection. On another
boat, we setup a cheap "disconnect" box in the back of the boat, on the
plywood. At a boat place in Detroit I found cheap insulated studs
(imagine a T, where the horizontal bar is made of plastic with a hole
running through on each side for fasteners, and the center of the T, a
threaded rod, for your connections), mounted those to the plywood at the
back of the boat and used that to connect the battery, trolling motor,
as well as the lights.



sounds like a Blue Sea Systems "Power Post" (Although I wouldn't call
them "Cheap" - but you could always fabricate your own from threaded
rod and scrap plastic.)

See http://www.bluesea.com/index.htm



--
Peter Bennett, VE7CEI
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