Just bought a Trophy with a 5.7 V8 coupled to an Alpha drive, 1991. Started
with some servicing to get things in order before venturing out. The
sterndrive is interesting and below are some experience I like to share.

1. U-joint bellows replacement
Pretty straightforward, not to worry.

2. Exhaust bellow
Real pain. Bought the tool as recommended but it is quite useless
unless you remove the upper shift-shaft as it cannot be inserted. Any parts
removal in an old engine is an adventure in its own right. Gave up that
idea, finally split the tool and used one arm to do the job.

3. Lower shift cable
Fitting needed a special tool, welded a 3/8 drive 9/16 socket to a
1/2 inch pipe and another socket at the other end to give it the square
drive. 2 sockets, 1 pipe and welding later, quite useless, damn cable
fitting is stuck. Finally drilled it out, watch it, its a NPT thread with a
taper. Can't they just use regular threads with an o-ring and sealant to
seal it against water-just needed to ventilate....
Installing the cable, haven't done it yet. After surveying the job,
can see it coming...****.

4. Bell housing hinge pin
As all old boat stuff, stuck. Tool now used as paperweight. Didn't
want to push it, if something breaks = more money or less for me depending
on which side you are on.

Something to share.

Tan PS

"Tan PS" wrote
Exhaust bellow ...
Bought the tool as recommended
but it is quite useless ...
split the tool and used one arm to do the job.

Glad you brought this up. I'm planning to replace the bellows on my 1977
165/R this winter, since it looks like I may keep the boat a while and I'm
pretty sure the ones on it are the originals. Looking at the exhaust bellows
tool, it seems rather expensive for what it appears to be. (a couple of bent
sticks, joined with a hinge in the middle) I was thinking I could fabricate
something that would do the job and save a few bucks.

Lower shift cable ...
Fitting needed a special tool

Like this one?
http://www.mercstuff.com/group_image...ablesocket.htm
(It's on my shopping list.)

Bell housing hinge pin ...
As all old boat stuff, stuck.
Tool now used as paperweight.
Didn't want to push it ...

Don't you have to remove the hinge pins to get to the bellowses?

Yes, that's the tool for the shift cable. Can be fabricated, use a 6-point
socket, 12-points stress the corners and will round the nut - I know, I did
that. Need to be a 3/8 drive so that the teflon tube can go through.

The shift cable need not be removed for the bellows job. Cable will be in
the way somewhat, but the cable removal will need rigging adjustments at the
shift plate. If not done properly, will end up with shifting and stalling
problems. Best avoided. If you must, read the guide in www.sterndrives.com
especially the part about removing the spiralwrap from the cable before
pulling it out. Wasn't on mine so can't tell if its a real problem if you
forget.

Yes, you can fabricate the tool for the exhaust bellow. Its essentially a
half-oval. The mount flanges at the bell housing and transom are oval, not
round. To get the tool shape, remove the sterndrive and follow the shape of
the exhaust opening in the bell housing. Use the shift shaft as the fulcrum
to lever the bellows at the first corrugation, reach behind the bellow
(small hands) and push it over the flange. Repeat using the 3rd corrugation
to push it furhter over the flange. Want to buy half of what I got? ;-)

After each clamp is in place, check visually to be sure clamp is in proper
position. One clamp I removed missed a small segment of the bellow.

There's no need to remove the bell housing to get to the bellows. The
u-joint bellow is easy, lots of room. The exhaust bellow is the pain.

Good luck.


"Joe Blizzard" wrote in message
...
"Tan PS" wrote
Exhaust bellow ...
Bought the tool as recommended
but it is quite useless ...
split the tool and used one arm to do the job.

Glad you brought this up. I'm planning to replace the bellows on my 1977
165/R this winter, since it looks like I may keep the boat a while and I'm
pretty sure the ones on it are the originals. Looking at the exhaust
bellows
tool, it seems rather expensive for what it appears to be. (a couple of
bent
sticks, joined with a hinge in the middle) I was thinking I could
fabricate
something that would do the job and save a few bucks.

Lower shift cable ...
Fitting needed a special tool

Like this one?
http://www.mercstuff.com/group_image...ablesocket.htm
(It's on my shopping list.)

Bell housing hinge pin ...
As all old boat stuff, stuck.
Tool now used as paperweight.
Didn't want to push it ...

Don't you have to remove the hinge pins to get to the bellowses?

"Tan PS" wrote in message
...
Just bought a Trophy with a 5.7 V8 coupled to an Alpha drive, 1991.
Started
with some servicing to get things in order before venturing out. The
sterndrive is interesting and below are some experience I like to share.

1. U-joint bellows replacement
Pretty straightforward, not to worry.

2. Exhaust bellow
Real pain. Bought the tool as recommended but it is quite useless
unless you remove the upper shift-shaft as it cannot be inserted. Any
parts
removal in an old engine is an adventure in its own right. Gave up that
idea, finally split the tool and used one arm to do the job.

You might want to take the shift shaft out to replace the bushings and
seals. A leaking seal is probably why the shift cable got damaged.


3. Lower shift cable
Fitting needed a special tool, welded a 3/8 drive 9/16 socket to a
1/2 inch pipe and another socket at the other end to give it the square
drive. 2 sockets, 1 pipe and welding later, quite useless, damn cable
fitting is stuck. Finally drilled it out, watch it, its a NPT thread with
a
taper. Can't they just use regular threads with an o-ring and sealant to
seal it against water-just needed to ventilate....
Installing the cable, haven't done it yet. After surveying the
job,
can see it coming...****.

Drill out the end of a cheap chinese 6" 3/8 drive extension so the plastic
cable guide can fit into it.


4. Bell housing hinge pin
As all old boat stuff, stuck. Tool now used as paperweight.
Didn't
want to push it, if something breaks = more money or less for me depending
on which side you are on.

The hinge pins are set in with locktite at 90 ft. lbs. of torque. Use some
heat to soften the locktite.

Something to share.

Tan PS



Have fun,
Jim