"Calif Bill" wrote in message link.net...
"basskisser" wrote in message
om...
"Calif Bill" wrote in message
ink.net...
"rmcinnis" wrote in message
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"Paul" wrote in message
. cable.rogers.com...
After taking the boat out just a few times this your I couldn't
crank
the
engine anymore. Replaced the starter, removed all spark plugs,
cranked
and
fount all cylinders in a 5L V8 OMC 305 engine flooded.

Does this mean that water came out of all 8 cylinders after yo had
removed
the plugs?

Since all 8 cyl. were
flooded at the same time with fresh water I do not suspect exhaust.
(verified by creating a closed loop coolant system and eliminating
exhaust
altogether).

I am not sure what you mean here. How does creating a closed loop
cooling
eliminate the exhaust? Did you create a closed loop cooling system,
run
the
motor and have all 8 cylinders fill with water again?

When you ran the motor this way, did you not have any water running
through
the exhaust system?

My suspect is a leak between cooling passages and cylinders intakes
in the intake manifold. Can't also imagine how a cracked block would
flood
all 8 cyl. at once.

If I understand the situation properly it doesn't sound like the water
enters the cylinder(s) while the engine is running, but rather after
the
engine is shut down. If you get water into one cylinder it is easy
for it
to migrate to the other cylinders, all it takes is for the intake
valve to
be open. The water will flow from the flooded cylinder up into the
intake
manifold. At least one other intake valve will be open at the same
time
which means it will flood also. When you crank the engine the
remaining
cylinders will draw in any water remaining in the intake manifold and
they
will flood as well.

You apparently have a leak between the water jacket and either a
cylinder
directly or into the intake manifold. This could be from a gasket
failure,
either the head gasket (fairly common failure) or the intake manifold
gasket
(pretty rare, but certainly possible). If the failure is in the head
gasket
a compression check should show which cylinder is the problem.

If the problem is not a gasket then I would bet that the intake
manifold
has
rusted through to the cooling system. If you still have your "closed
system" rigged up try pressurizing it and seeing if it holds pressure.
This
is a standard test on radiator systems, and you can purchase a small
pump
and pressure guage that installs in place of the radiator cap for this
purpose. The cooling system should be able to hold 13 PSI without any
significant loss.

Rod



Cheaper to take the boat to someone to do the pressure test. It is
about
$135 for the radiator pressure tester. They have been making these
things
for 50 years, and the price is still way to high.

Why? All you need is a non-relieving cap with 1/4" nipple, available
at NAPA for less than $10, a low pressure gauge, and your air
compressor, even the little tiny ones will work.

Some people like to use the tool designed for the job. For less than $10
and no time expended, you can rent the tool.

The tool I've described IS "designed for the job". For less than $10 you can OWN it.

Pressure test is definitely a way to go. I'll see whether I can do it with
the addition of some simple tools. What I'm not sure is how will I be able
to find out what the exact spot is. Even without doing it I know the engine
will fail the test but I'm not exactly sure how to proceed afterwards.


Why? All you need is a non-relieving cap with 1/4" nipple, available
at NAPA for less than $10, a low pressure gauge, and your air
compressor, even the little tiny ones will work.

Some people like to use the tool designed for the job. For less than
$10
and no time expended, you can rent the tool.

The tool I've described IS "designed for the job". For less than $10 you
can OWN it.