I thought about it as a combination with the pressure test. Put colorant and
pressurize water jacket. That would be like home-brewed magnafluxing.
Definitely on my "to do" list. Thanks for suggestion.


"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
ink.net...
How about this. Fix up your closed cooling system and dump some food
coloring into it. Then see where it shows up.

"Paul" wrote in message
ble.rogers.com...
Yes, water was presesnt in all cylinders, all plugs were wet and most of
the
water was in the middle cyl. 4,6,3,7 but also in the rest of them.
Intake
passages are nicely red, so are the connecting cyl. head ports.

I created a closed loop bypassing exhaust altogether, only the block,
heads
and intake was in the loop. Water inlet was inside the bucket, so was
the
outlet that would normally lead to exhaust manifolds. You could see the
engine sucking from and throwing water back out into the bucket.

Engine also takes the water running (steam) but it is all more apparent
whan
you shut down.
I can't comprehend the idea of water travelling from one cyl to another.
Cylinders are air-tight´and intake valve is open only during the
downstroke
so how could the piston push water out into the intake (?). That would
make
the engine fail any compression test wouldn't it?
As to compression, it is 150-170 on all cyl.
Head gaskets were replaced and old ones were still good, no problem.
Bottom
of the carb is quite badly rusted indicating that it has freq. contact
with
water (?).
This is a major leak and lots of water enters the engine and cylinders.



"rmcinnis" wrote in message
...

"Paul" wrote in message
. cable.rogers.com...
After taking the boat out just a few times this your I couldn't crank
the
engine anymore. Replaced the starter, removed all spark plugs,
cranked
and
fount all cylinders in a 5L V8 OMC 305 engine flooded.

Does this mean that water came out of all 8 cylinders after yo had
removed
the plugs?

Since all 8 cyl. were
flooded at the same time with fresh water I do not suspect exhaust.
(verified by creating a closed loop coolant system and eliminating
exhaust
altogether).

I am not sure what you mean here. How does creating a closed loop
cooling
eliminate the exhaust? Did you create a closed loop cooling system,
run
the
motor and have all 8 cylinders fill with water again?

When you ran the motor this way, did you not have any water running
through
the exhaust system?

My suspect is a leak between cooling passages and cylinders intakes
in the intake manifold. Can't also imagine how a cracked block would
flood
all 8 cyl. at once.

If I understand the situation properly it doesn't sound like the water
enters the cylinder(s) while the engine is running, but rather after
the
engine is shut down. If you get water into one cylinder it is easy for
it
to migrate to the other cylinders, all it takes is for the intake valve
to
be open. The water will flow from the flooded cylinder up into the
intake
manifold. At least one other intake valve will be open at the same
time
which means it will flood also. When you crank the engine the remaining
cylinders will draw in any water remaining in the intake manifold and
they
will flood as well.

You apparently have a leak between the water jacket and either a
cylinder
directly or into the intake manifold. This could be from a gasket
failure,
either the head gasket (fairly common failure) or the intake manifold
gasket
(pretty rare, but certainly possible). If the failure is in the head
gasket
a compression check should show which cylinder is the problem.

If the problem is not a gasket then I would bet that the intake
manifold
has
rusted through to the cooling system. If you still have your "closed
system" rigged up try pressurizing it and seeing if it holds pressure.
This
is a standard test on radiator systems, and you can purchase a small
pump
and pressure guage that installs in place of the radiator cap for this
purpose. The cooling system should be able to hold 13 PSI without any
significant loss.

Rod